by Nomi Berger
 
“Every sixty seconds, an animal is abused.”
 
This is according to the ASPCA. And so, they have designated April as “Prevention of Cruelty to Animals” Month. They have also urged their supporters everywhere to “Go Orange for Animals” to increase public awareness.
 
The following are ways YOU can help.
 
START A FUNDRAISING CAMPAIGN
 
Using your personal Facebook account, create an ASPCA fundraising page for an important event in your life and share it with friends and family. Whether you “donate” your birthday, honor the memory of a beloved pet or run a 5k with Team ASPCA, the money you raise will benefit needy animals nationwide.
 
SUPPORT A LOCAL ANIMAL SHELTER OR RESCUE GROUP
 
Drawing on your own, personal contacts, team up with a local shelter or rescue in sponsoring a ”Go Orange for Animals” event (wearing orange, of course). Whether it’s an adoption event or a donation drive, give them the proceeds and/or supplies you’ve collected, and know the difference you’re making is huge!
 
SHOW YOUR VIRTUAL SUPPORT
 
Spread the word about “Prevention of Cruelty to Animals” Month by posting on your social media networks using the hashtag #fightcruelty and tagging @aspca. Encourage your family and friends to follow the ASPCA on Facebook, Twitter, Instagram and Pinterest.
 
BECOME AN ANIMAL ACTIVIST
 
Visit the ASPCA Advocacy Center online, join their Advocacy Brigade to receive emails about important animal welfare-related legislation, and learn how YOU can become a voice for the voiceless.
 
MAKE ADOPTION YOUR FIRST OPTION
 
Looking for the perfect fur friend for your family? Both shelters and rescue groups have loving dogs and cats of all breeds, ages and colors, desperate to find their own perfect families. By adopting, not shopping, you’re saving two lives: the life of the animal you adopt and the life of the animal taking its place.
 
How To Report Animal Cruelty
 
If you witness the act yourself, you can go to your local police commissioner and ask to swear out a warrant summoning the accused person to court.
 
Or you can find out precisely where to report the incident in your area. Then, either call or email them, providing a concise, factual statement of what you observed, including the date and approximate time of the abuse.
 
If possible, photograph the abusive situation and date your pictures.
 
If possible, gather brief, factual written statements from other witnesses.
 
If you have documents pertinent to your complaint, always make copies for your own records before giving them to anyone else.
 
If you call to report a case of animal cruelty, keep a record of the person you contact, the date, and the content and outcome of your discussion. Make it clear that you are interested in pursuing the case, and that you will help in any way you can.
 
If you don’t receive a response from the agent/officer assigned to your case within a reasonable length of time, follow up. Present your information to his/her supervisor and, if necessary, to local government officials, such as the county commissioner, and ask them to act.
 
Remember. If YOU don’t speak up, this abuse is likely to happen again.

by Nomi Berger
 
Notoriously inquisitive, known for nosing around indoors and out, cats continuously court disaster, and it’s incumbent upon their conscientious owners to keep them safe from harm.
 
That said, consider these seven backyard threats to your own kitty’s health and wellbeing.
 
Toxic Plants: Famously fond of chewing on plants, curious cats should never find these toxic plants in YOUR garden – azaleas, chrysanthemums, daffodils, foxgloves, gladioli, hydrangeas, irises, lilies, marigolds, tomato plants and tulips. For a more complete list of potentially lethal plants, please consult your vet.
 
Unlocked garages and sheds: Both are paw-tential “breeding grounds” for disaster -- from sharp tools when stepped on to toxic chemicals when ingested. If your house has a garage, a shed or both, ensure that they’re always closed and locked when not in use to keep your cat from wandering around them unsupervised. Make certain beforehand, though, that all of your tools have been safely stored away and that your cat isn’t hiding some place inside to keep her from being trapped there.
 
Uncovered swimming pools: Attempting to drink from an outdoor swimming pool can prove fatal to any curious cats should they fall into the water. To spare them this fate, either use a pool cover when the pool’s not in use or ensure that there’s a low edge to it. This way, cats can easily climb out if they happen to lose their balance and take a tumble.
 
Chemical herbicides: Far too many dedicated gardeners use chemicals -- herbicides and/or insecticides -- to keep their gardens free from unsightly weeds and plant-eating bugs. But these chemicals can make cats violently ill if licked, chewed and swallowed. The solution: if you do use such chemicals, restrict your cat’s access to the garden until they’re fully dried or, better still, switch to natural alternatives that are deemed safe for pets.
 
Rat poison and slug pellets: Not only is rodent poison fatal to rats and mice, it can also be fatal to cats -- if they ingest the poison itself or if they eat a poisoned rat. To keep your cat safe, avoid using rat poison in your own garden and speak with your neighbors about their own, possible use of this toxic substance. Slug pellets, shaped like small cylindrical bullets, can also be appealing to cats and should be replaced with harmless alternatives – from copper tape and egg shells to sea shells and recycled wool waste pellets.
 
Fruit stones from trees or plants: The downside of having fruit trees or fruit-bearing plants in your garden is how quickly they litter the ground with fruit stones, berries and seeds. If cats swallow a fruit stone, it can often cause an intestinal obstruction that, if not resolved promptly, can be fatal. In some cases, these stones, along with the berries and seeds, can also be toxic and should be removed from the ground on a regular basis.
 
Compost heaps: While cats may enjoy digging about in compost heaps, dangers lurk deep within them -- from sharp sticks, moldy food and coffee grounds to cat-toxic fruits and vegetables such as raisins, onions and avocados. If there’s a compost heap in your garden, enclose it with a pet-proof fence or use a specially designed bin to keep the compost safely out of reach of your cats’ paws and mouths.

by Nomi Berger
 
Since cats are both predators and prey, they are programmed to perpetually assess their environment. As creatures of habit, territorial and tenacious, they must feel safe rather than sorry before relaxing their guard and revealing their sociable side.
 
That said, giving your new kitty companion some space before greeting her is key to earning her trust and winning her heart. Why? Because this affords her the opportunity to decide if she feels comfortable enough to interact with you or if it’s best, temporarily at least, for her to keep her distance.
 
Always allow HER to approach YOU. If she senses that she has a choice, she’s far less likely to run off.
 
Avoid looking her in the eye. Since a direct stare is considered a challenge in the animal world, use brief, soft glances – much like repeated slow blinks -- to reassure her that you’re not a threat.
 
To seem less imposing, never stand (read “tower”) over her. Instead either kneel down or sit on the floor. Meant to put her at ease, this should also encourage her to come closer, paw step by paw step, and begin her scent investigation of you.
 
Because cats rely so heavily on their highly developed sense of smell, you can use this to your mutual advantage. Slowly extend your index finger to see if she’ll venture even closer for that all-important first sniff. This is akin to two cats meeting one another for the first time and “going nose to nose” as each sniffs the other’s unique scent.
 
If she does, indeed, sniff your finger, pay close attention to what she does next. If she rubs against your finger, this is a friendly sign. If she moves in closer to rub against your arm, it’s an even friendlier sign, showing that she obviously feels comfortable enough to share this almost immediate, more intimate contact with you. But if she sniffs your finger and either stands still or backs away, it means that she’s still not quite sure of you. Resist the impulse to make any further moves in her direction. She may return for a second sniff or she may simply choose – for the moment -- to retreat altogether. If she does, don’t think of this first experience as a failure. By being patient, giving her the choice and not pressuring her, you’ve established that all-important initial bond of trust. Hopefully, she’ll feel more comfortable the second time – or the third -- and engage with you sooner and go farther.
 
If, on the other hand, you’re actually able to pet your new kitty, don’t push her tolerance level, particularly when she’s just learning to trust you. The same rule applies if she settles down beside you or curls up in your lap. If she decides, at any time, to move away, don’t grab her or try to lure her back. As long as she knows that she’s free to leave, she’ll feel that much more comfortable getting closer to you the next time.

by Nomi Berger
 
Alley Cat Rescue of Maryland has marked March 3rd as the start of the Feral Fix Challenge, an annual global event that brings together veterinarians and communities throughout the word in an effort to save the lives of feral cats.
 
The Challenge, currently in its 11th year, asks veterinarians to get involved with trap-neuter-return (TNR) by providing either low cost or free spay/neuters and rabies vaccinations for free roaming cats. Since its inception, over 130,000 cats have been spayed and neutered by more than 1,500 participating vets worldwide.
 
And because approximately 860,000 cats are euthanized in American shelters each year -- many of them newborn kittens or free roaming cats – the most successful way to lower this staggering statistic is to slow the breeding cycle among the feral cat population.
 
What, then, is TNR?
 
Trap-neuter-return (TNR) is a program through which feral (unsocialized to people) cats are humanely trapped, spayed and/or neutered, vaccinated and, when necessary, medically treated before being returned to their original outdoor locations where neighborhood caretakers provide them with regular food and shelter.
 
Should these spots be considered unsafe or otherwise inappropriate, however, many of the feral cats will be moved to rural and/or farmyard locations. Kittens still young enough to be socialized, and friendly, adult cats will typically be placed in foster homes, then eventually adopted into loving fur-ever homes as cherished kitty companions.
 
TNR has many advantages. It immediately stabilizes the size of the colony by eliminating new litters. The “nuisance” behaviors often associated with feral cats is dramatically reduced, including the yowling and fighting that come with mating activity and the odor of unneutered males spraying to mark their territory.
 
The returned colony also guards its “turf”, preventing intact cats from moving in and starting the vicious cycle of overpopulation and problem behaviors all over again, while in urban areas, these spayed and neutered cats continue to provide a natural form of rodent control. 
 
Another significant advantage of the program, when practiced on a large scale, is that it reduces the number of feral kittens and cats entering already overcrowded local shelters. This not only lowers the shelters’ euthanasia rates it increases the number of adoptions of cats already there. 
 
Endorsed by such well respected groups as the ASPCA, the American Humane Association and the Humane Society of the United States, TNR is considered to be the most humane, effective and financially sustainable method of controlling the growth of free roaming cat populations. Trying to “rescue” feral cats and place them in permanent homes is, quite simply, impossible, given their numbers and the futility of trying to socialize most of them.
 
On the other hand, “Trap and Remove”, the more traditional technique used by most Animal Control Services across the country, isn’t only ineffectual, it’s counter productive. If ALL of the cats aren’t caught, the unneutered males left behind will continue to breed until the colony’s previous population level is reached. Even more frustrating: if every cat IS removed, new intact ones – both female and male -- tend to move into the area and take advantage of the available food sources, and the entire breeding cycle begins again.
 
How can YOU help?
 
Alley Cat Rescue asks you to support and promote this global challenge by visiting
www.saveacat.org/the-feral-fix.html and asking them to send your vet an invitation to participate or for a sample invitation if you would rather approach your vet personally.
 
Vets can sign up for the 2021 Feral Fix Challenge and pledge to provide free or low cost spay/neuter services to as many free roaming cats as is feasible for their individual practices.
 
Alley Cat Rescue is a national nonprofit organization dedicated to the welfare of all cats: domestic and stray, abandoned and feral. For more information, visit www.saveacat.org.

by Nomi Berger
 
Like a prenuptial agreement, the aptly named “pet-nuptial” (pet custody) agreement can assist you in keeping your cherished feline companion should your current relationship end.
 
Whether you’re divorcing a spouse, breaking up with a partner or moving out on a roommate, if you’ve owned a cat together, gird yourself for a potential battle over the custody of that cat. The key to resolving this issue and being on the winning end of it is to have a “pet-nuptial” agreement already in place.
 
Since the law in most states regards pets not as family members but as personal property, protecting your rights requires foresight on your part. When you have a “pet-nuptial” agreement, a court – if it comes to that – will, in all likelihood, enforce it unless you live in one of a handful of states with pet custody laws. If so, the judge will, as in any child custody battle, make a decision based on the best interests of the disputed pet.
 
Without a pre-arranged agreement, you’ll have to prove why YOU’RE the one entitled to keep the cat rather than your spouse, partner or roommate. Are you able, then, to provide the answers to the following questions?
 
• Who actually adopted or purchased the cat in question? Have the necessary receipts, wherever possible.
• Did you or “the other party” have the cat before the start of your “arrangement?”
• Are there any children involved who are attached to this cat? If so, where will they be living?
• Who plays the greater role in feeding and playing with the cat?
• Who takes the cat to the veterinarian?
• Who pays the bills -- from food, toys, beds and other kitty essentials to veterinary expenses, medications, supplements and therapies if applicable?
• Does either party have a work schedule that prevents them from spending quality time with the cat?
• Which party has bonded with the cat, is the one she always follows around, always sleeps near, etc.?
• Has either party ever exhibited any cruelty towards your cat or any other animal?
 
To keep your pet dispute from ever going to court, consider using mediation or arbitration instead. This way you can hopefully work together and come to an amicable arrangement.
 
Another solution is an agreement that either provides for joint custody of your cat or for sole custody with the other party given “visitation rights.” Joint custody agreements are far from ideal since pets, like children, are often traumatized by the dissolution of a marriage or partnership. A custody agreement where your cat is shuttled back and forth between two homes seldom works satisfyingly for any party – particularly the cat.
 
If your spouse already had the cat before you got marred, it will be difficult for you to get custody of her because she’s not considered “marital property” but your spouse’s “separate property.”
 
And yet, in some cases, you may emerge victorious. Examples: if you spend the most time with your cat, you could get custody of her despite the fact that your spouse pays most of the vet bills. If children are involved, and you’re getting custody of them in one of the few states with pet custody laws, a judge will want the cat to remain with the children. In other states, custody could be split, with the children going to one parent and the cat going to the other.
 
Because pet custody is an evolving legal issue, consider hiring a family attorney to help you. Ensure that you have photos and videos of you and your cat sharing a series of bonding experiences. Ensure that you have witnesses eager to testify that YOU are her primary guardian and playmate. Ensure that you have records of or receipts for every purchase you’ve made towards her care and well being.
 
In short, if you have a cat and an intact marriage or partnership, put a “pet-nuptial” agreement in place NOW so that you’re protected should the relationship ever end.

by Nomi Berger
 
Rather then being a single disease, Feline Hyperesthesia Syndrome (FHS) is a set of symptoms that indicates the presence of a dermal, neurological or behavioral problem. The opposite of anesthesia, instead of a LACK of sensation, an affected cat has TOO MUCH sensation in her skin or in the muscles under her skin. Much like tickling, it begins pleasantly enough before devolving into something both painful and distressing.
 
The classic symptoms of FHS – lasting a few seconds or several minutes – are episodes of a cat’s skin twitching or rolling. She may not only appear uncomfortable, her pupils may be dilated or she may be staring off into space. Normally calm cats may become aggressive during an episode while aggressive cats may grow calmer. And episodes occur most often in the morning or evening -- the dawn/dusk times when cats in the wild would be hunting.
 
Some cats with milder forms of FHS experience pain when they’re petted, particularly along their lower backs. Some may lick or bite themselves, often leading to shortened hair or baldness in those areas. Some will attack their tails or lower backs while others will lick or chew at their paws. Cats with more severe symptoms may cry or race screaming from room to room, mutilate their tails or suffer seizures if touched in a certain way.
 
Possible causes or triggers of FHS include allergies to food (this requires a special diet) or pollen, fleas, mites and ringworm. The symptoms of milder skin allergies can be relieved by antihistamines like doxepin, while more troublesome cases are usually treated with prednisolone, a steroid that eliminates any and all offending parasites. Skin scrapings detect the presence of mites and a fungal culture will test for ringworm. Bravecto ointment, applied to your cat’s skin, is designed to kill both fleas and mites.
 
If treating your cat for skin issues doesn’t help, a neurological problem -- affecting her spinal cord or the nerves to her back or tail -- may be the culprit. In this case, your vet may order spinal x-rays taken or, if need be, refer you to a neurologist for either a CT scan or MRI.

Cats suffering from a neurological condition can exhibit other symptoms besides FHS, including weakness or an unsteady gait, obvious pain in their neck, back or legs (pain medications may help), difficulty with jumping or problems with going up and down stairs. Some cats’ symptoms, on the other hand, seem more like seizures, for which Phenobarbital and/or Gabapentin (this decreases neurological pain) may be prescribed.
 
If both dermatological and neurological problems are ruled out, the third option is a compulsive disorder, thought to be caused by a lack of the neurotransmitter serotonin. Your vet can prescribe a Selective Serotonin Reuptake Inhibitor (SSRI) to increase the amount of serotonin in your cat’s brain and reduce her symptoms. Used for years in people, Prozac often works well for cats, and is available as a chewable tablet (for dogs) that can be crushed into your cat’s canned food or broth. (To ensure she’s tolerating the drug, your vet should draw a blood sample to check her liver and kidney function).
 
If the cause is indeed behavioral, any stress or conflict between cats in a multi-cat household tends to worsen the afflicted cat’s symptoms. To reduce this stress:
• Ensure that both their food (keep to one brand) and feeding times are predictable.
• Engage them in regular play sessions, especially with toys that they can chase or bite.
• Provide them with tall hiding and perching places to make them feel safer.
• Ensure there are enough food bowls and litter boxes around so that a timid cat doesn’t fear being “picked on” by a more aggressive one when she’s eating or eliminating.
• Anticipate whenever possible, a stressful situation and avoid it or redirect any undesirable behavior on the part of an aggressive cat through either training or playing.

by Nomi Berger
 
While many felines, like their canine counterparts, chase their tails as a form of amusement or pleasure, it’s a sight seen less often in cats than in dogs.
 
How many times have YOU witnessed your cherished pussycat companion circling round and round in an effort to capture her own tail?
 
According to animal experts, if a kitty is chasing her tail, it may not be for fun and frolics but rather as an exercise born out of sheer boredom. In that case, as a conscientious cat owner, redirect her attention towards chasing a piece of string, a favorite toy or the red beam of a laser pointer. And remember that high-value treats will both serve to reinforce your efforts and reward her compliance.
 
Concerned that your kitty is bored because you’re not home for extended periods of time? Keep her constructively occupied by leaving her with one or more interactive toys – from puzzle boards and rolling food dispenser toys to multilevel roller balls and rotating electric toys. These will help her focus more on playing with the toys and less on playing with her tail.
Sometimes, though, a cat will chase her tail (and even bite it at the same time) because of some underlying medical condition. She may have an infection that’s making her tail extremely uncomfortable. She may have an allergy that’s making it very itchy. She may have stud tail, a skin condition caused by overactive glands at the base of the tail. Or she may have Feline Hyperesthesia Syndrome, caused by overactive nerve endings that give her tail a tingly sensation.
 
Since you know your kitty’s body language best, if you suspect that her behavior is suspect, consult with your vet as soon as possible.
 
If yours is a multi-cat household, you may find yourself facing another situation: one cat playfully chasing or swatting at another cat’s tail. The solution? Separate them and redirect their attention to those oh-so-essential interactive toys.
 
A second, more worrisome scenario may involve one cat attacking, and sometimes biting, another cat’s tail. This may be either playful or pugnacious, depending on the attacker’s demeanor and the extent of the injuries – if any – sustained by the victim. Because a cat’s tail can become infected so easily and can be difficult to treat and resolve at home, any injury, however small, should automatically be examined by your vet.
 
If, however, all medical issues have been ruled out, and your feline friend continues to chase her tail in spite of your best efforts, locate a veterinary behaviorist in your area to evaluate her and assist you in finding the most paws-itive future course of action.

by Nomi Berger
 
Have you ever wondered how many of their legendary nine lives cats use up when they fall from extraordinary heights?
 
Have you ever wondered how they, more often than not, manage to land safely on their feet?
 
Known as the righting reflex, this innate ability to reorient their bodies during a fall has been observed in kittens as young as the age of three weeks, and this gravity-defying skill is fully developed by the time they’re seven weeks old.
 
Historically, cats falling from greater heights (five stories and more) suffer less severe injuries than those falling from only a few stories. This longer free fall allows them more time to right themselves and position their bodies correctly so that by the time they reach the ground, their feet will touch down first.
 
Visualize a kitty falling in slow motion. She starts shifting her balance the instant her flight begins. First, her body determines which side should be up, guided by her eyes and ears. A cat’s inner ear’s vestibular system acts as her balance and orientation compass, alerting her to where her body is in relation to the ground. She then begins rotating her head until she’s facing the proper way and can see precisely where she’s going to land.
 
Secondly, her spine follows as she arches her back. Possessing a unique skeletal structure, a cat’s spine has no collarbone and an unusually flexible backbone with 30 vertebrae – unlike humans who have 24 – and it’s the suppleness of this backbone that enables her to correct her course during her fall. And since a cat has a low body-volume-to-weight ratio, much like a flying squirrel, she’s able to slow her velocity when falling by expanding her body size which, in turn, creates air resistance.
 
Thirdly, she positions her front feet under her, followed by her hind legs, with her front paws placed close to her face to protect it from the impact of landing on the ground. More like a parachute and less like an airplane, she relaxes her falling body and spreads it out in preparation for landing, ensuring her leg joints bear the impact of her weight.
 
Several years ago, a cat who fell a staggering 32 stories from a high-rise apartment to land on the concrete sidewalk was released from a veterinary clinic after 48 hours with only a chipped tooth and a minor lung puncture!

by Nomi Berger

As you deck the proverbial halls this season, paw-lease keep your purr-ecious kitty in mind. Any changes in her regular routine – a home suddenly filled with new scents, sounds and strangers -- may send even the most sociable cat scampering for safety.
 
Be conscious of and careful about the plants you bring into your home. Despite their obvious beauty, holly, mistletoe and poinsettia are toxic to cats and should be kept out of reach, while a single leaf from any form of lily is lethal. The oils of a Christmas tree can irritate their mouths and stomachs, causing vomiting, while the prickly needles are hazardous to their entire GI tracts.
 
To err on the side of caution, consider buying an artificial tree and artificial plants instead.
 
Consider next the breakable ornaments and dangling tinsel, shiny ribbons and artificial snow, ropes of small lights and flickering candles. All eye-catching eye candy to curious kitties with batting paws, small, sharp teeth and swishing tails.
 
Hang delicate ornaments higher on the tree and resist placing any in decorative bowls on low surfaces. Not only can cats choke on them, but the sharp edges of any broken pieces can lacerate their mouths, throats and intestines. Drape tinsel higher on the tree as well, and keep ribbons on gifts underneath the tree to a minimum. If tinsel or ribbons are swallowed, they can twist and bunch inside a cat’s intestines, causing serious, sometimes fatal damage if not caught quickly enough.
 
Artificial snow is toxic and should be avoided at all costs. Lights, large and small, solid and flickering are another danger, not only because they are hot and breakable, but because of the electrical cords holding them together. If bitten, they can cause electrical shock if not properly grounded, and if frayed, they can cause severe lacerations to your cat’s tongue.
Place all lighted candles out of reach to reduce the risk of singed fur and pads, paws and tails, and lower the chance of them being tipped over, leaving burning wax everywhere or worse, starting a fire.
 
As appetizing as holiday fare is for people, it can prove agonizing, even lethal for pets. The most notorious offenders are:
Raisins and grapes: A handful of raisins can cause sudden kidney failure in a cat. Also avoid giving her grapes, while watching for signs of toxicity should she accidentally eat some. Signs that usually occur within 24 hours are lack of appetite, lethargy, weakness, abdominal pain, diarrhea and decreased urination.
Onions and garlic: The sulfoxides and disulfides in both destroy red blood cells and can cause serious blood problems including anemia.
Fat trimmings: They cause upset stomachs, vomiting and diarrhea.
Bones: Whatever the size, shape or texture, they all spell the same thing: danger. From throat scratches to stomach perforations to bowel obstructions. To safeguard against these painful possibilities, all leftovers, particularly bones, should be carefully wrapped and promptly disposed of.
Alcohol: It’s traditional to celebrate the holidays with more alcohol than usual – in cooking and in drinks such as eggnog and fruit punch. For safety’s sake, keep these temptations (including partially eaten plates of food and half-empty glasses) out of the reach of your cat to avoid intoxication and alcohol poisoning.
Chocolates: Although chocolate has long been taboo for cats, most chocolates are wrapped in foil for the holidays. Now, not only can your cat get sick from eating the chocolate, the wrappers themselves can get stuck in her throat or cause problems as they work their way through her digestive tract.
Christmas pudding, cake and mince pie: Filled with potentially toxic raisins, currants, and sultanas, they are also made with fat and suet, and laced with alcohol -- from scotch and brandy to sugary liqueurs.
 
And so, with some thoughtful planning beforehand, you and your purr-ecious kitty can enjoy the happiest and healthiest of holidays.

by Nomi Berger
 
Did you know that cats are capable of making more than 100 sounds?
 
Did you know that every year veterinary behaviorists discover even more sounds as they attempt to decipher exactly what those sounds and combinations of sounds mean?
 
Curious about the most common sounds that kitties make? Consider the following:
 
Short mew: Not only can it serve as a feline’s greeting, but it’s also similar to a person’s asking a question. Examples: When you hear a short mew, your kitty may be asking, “Are you concerned about me?” or “Could you please pick me up to get me away from the dog?”
 
Rapid-fire meow: Often, when a cat’s excited or craves attention, she’ll emit this rapid-fire meow. While its most common meaning is “I’m hungry, paw-lease feed me now!”, it may also be a sign of concern, discomfort or distress.
 
Chirping or chattering: As part of a cat’s natural hunting instinct, she’ll usually emit this familiar sound when she’s sitting in front of a window staring at the birds, chipmunks or squirrels outside. The reasons: she’s excited because she sees them as potential prey or she’s frustrated because she can’t get to them.
 
Long plaintive meows: These usually indicate worry, annoyance or an objection on the part of your cat. Tending to be more repetitive in nature, they mean that your kitty REALLY wants something specific – from waking you up in the morning because she’s hungry to demanding an immediate release from the room she’s in.
 
Growling: Announcing the potential start of a fight, it’s a cat-to-cat sound that literally means, “back off.” Consider this as a warning sign that your kitty is extremely agitated and requires some space.
 
Purring: While people generally think that a purring cat signifies contentment and happiness, in some instances, it can be a sign that your cat’s uncomfortable or in pain and is purring as a way to soothe herself.
 
Hissing: Unprovoked cats will often hiss at other animals and people when they’re either threatened, frightened or in pain.
 
Trilling: While most cat sounds are made with their mouths open, trilling is one sound that cats make with their mouths closed. Not only is trilling used by mother cats to get their kittens to pay attention to them or follow them, veterinary behaviorists see it as a positive, happy and friendly greeting.
 
Yowling: Outdoor, intact females in heat will often emit this sound in a seductive attempt to lure tomcats their way. Yowling can also signify that a major cat fight is about to start or that a particular cat is in great pain.