by Nomi Berger
 
Walking your indoor cat on a leash not only allows her safe access to the outdoors, but it also provides her with physical exercise and mental stimulation. Whereas some indoor cats much prefer to remain where they are, still others are “hot to trot.”
 
If your indoor cat is curious and confident, enthusiastic and energetic, she may be a purr-ect candidate for a leashed walk. Before you begin, however, make certain that she’s current on all shots, flea and tick treatments. Ensure that she’s micro-chipped and that your contact information is up to date. Buy her a collar with an ID tag that clearly states she’s an indoor cat and that if she gets lost she should be returned home when found.
 
Next comes the harness. A harness is exceptionally secure and will keep your kitty safe and close to you even if she attempts to dart about or, worse, run away. Due to the increased popularity of cats being walked on leashes, there is now an ever-increasing assortment of styles, colors and patterns from which to choose.
 
Even better and, best of all, more comfortable than a harness, is a specially designed walking vest. Durable, adjustable and easy to put on, it’s an especially good choice for regular walkers and/or stronger, more motivated and determined cats.
 
Last but not least is a lightweight cat leash. Avoid both dog leashes and retractable leashes since they’re too heavy for cats. While many cat harnesses already come with a leash, other options are bungee leashes that will give your cat a little more range once you’re outside and at ease.
 
Now begins the process of training your cat. Begin by allowing her to get used to wearing a harness inside – a big step since indoor cats don’t normally wear collars AND harnesses. Start slowly, leaving the harness out on the floor with some treats on it to create a positive association for her and entice her to take the treats while smelling the harness itself.
 
After a few days, put the harness on your cat and promptly provide her with soothing pets and more of those treats. If she’s visibly uncomfortable, however, take the harness off immediately. Then, slowly and patiently, day by day, increase the amount of time she spends in the harness until she no longer minds it. And always remember to highlight the experience by petting her, playing with her, and providing her with treats to ensure that she associates “harness time” with happy times.
 
Once the harness has been well worn in, attach the leash to it and repeat the same process as above. Then as soon as your cat’s comfortable, bring her outside to a safe space -- a patio, deck or any enclosed area where she’s protected from other people and/or other animals. Slowly venture further afield, remembering to continually reward her with loving pets and tasty treats to assure her of the fun that awaits her once she’s well and truly outside. Remember too that any negative experience can set the entire process back, so pay close attention to your surroundings and to any unanticipated threat that may either spook or harm your cat.
 
Cat walks aren’t like dog walks. You will, in all likelihood, stay close to home, and your walk will (unless your kitty is particularly athletic and adventurous) be more of a meander. A chance for your purr-ecious puss to slowly and satisfyingly explore all of the various sights and smells previously unknown to her. A chance for you to watch the world through her eyes while seeing it through your own in an entirely new way. A chance for the two of you to bond more closely and more deeply. What could paws-ibly be better than that?

by Nomi Berger
 
How adept are you at reading your kitty’s signals?
 
Let’s start with her eyes. In a standoff between two opposing cats, the defender’s pupils will be dilated to widen her peripheral vision, giving her an advantage in anticipating an attack. On the other hand, the aggressor’s pupils will narrow to allow her better depth perception -- an advantage in judging where to attack. Aside from indicating fear, a cat’s pupils will also dilate in dim surroundings to allow as much light as possible to enter her eyes.
 
Perhaps the most wonderful signal, most often missed by even the most observant cat owner, is the sweetly seductive slow eye blink. Slow eye blinking is a very powerful and reassuring signal commonly used between cats when they’re sitting or lying in a hunched-up, sphinx-like position. It’s also a technique used by animal behaviorists to relax both house cats and feral cats by allowing them to interpret this human’s signal as: “I’m not a threat to you.” And for cat-crazy cat owners, it’s the ideal way to say, “I love you”, to their own favorite feline(s).
 
A continuous stare, however, has the opposite effect on cats. It’s threatening and unsettling and is used effectively as a way of maintaining their territorial distance. This is why a cat, upon entering a roomful of strangers -- all but one of them committed cat lovers – will approach the “non-cat lover”, the only person not staring at her.
 
Next, consider her ears. Again, in a standoff between two opposing cats, the defender’s ears will lie down flat against her head for protection. The one whose ears are lying flat -- with a twist, so that the tips of the backs of both ears are visible from the front -- is the aggressor. Confident and curious cats’ ears point forward as a way of listening for sounds in front of them. Cats either hunting prey or playing will also keep their ears pointing forward to collect as much auditory information as possible in order to execute a successful “pounce.”
 
Last is her tail. When a cat’s tail is erect along its entire length, it’s a gesture of greeting to another cat or an invitation to a friendly human for some quality “contact” rubbing. When her tail is vertical in the air with the inevitable “question mark”, it indicates that she’s happy and relaxed in her environment. It can also be a silent signal for food. When a seated cat’s tail flicks back and forth, it often shows her irritation and/or insecurity about what’s going to happen next. 
 
A tail held down while her rump is elevated belongs to an aggressive cat standing sideways near another cat. An arched, fluffed-up tail and an arched back (this pose is familiarly called the “Halloween cat”) shows that she’s torn between being aggressive or defensive. A fluffed tail positioned either straight out or straight down indicates she’s chosen to move towards aggression. Ironically, all of these tail positions can be observed when two kittens engage in play fighting.
 
Eyes, ears, tail. Now it’s up to you. M-e-o-w!

by Nomi Berger

The nose knows! And so it is with cats who rely on their noses to more fully comprehend the world around them. They detect smells as well as sense pheromones (chemicals produced and released by other cats) through their olfactory systems. For indoor cats in particular, understanding and appreciating the importance of their highly developed sense of smell can greatly enrich their environment, which, in turn, makes them happier cats.
 
Catnip has long been considered the “go to” plant of choice of household cats, attracted as they are to its odor – more than its taste -- to both improve their welfare and make their lives more “interesting.” They typically respond to catnip by sniffing, licking and biting it, shaking or rubbing their heads, chins or cheeks against it, rolling over in it, drooling, and even kicking at the fabric enclosing it with their hind feet. This so-called “catnip response” has often been described by those witnessing it as euphoric.
 
And yet, catnip isn’t the only plant favored by felines. Some are also attracted to silver vine, Tatarian honeysuckle and Valerian root – all available in various forms. This is fortunate because one in three domestic cats do NOT respond to catnip. Some even appear to be genetically incapable of “sensing” it, and although the allure of catnip has been well documented, one recent study involving 100 cats investigated their responses to catnip and these three less familiar plants.
 
Of the 100 cats studied, 94 percent showed a “catnip response” to at least one of the four plants. Seventy-nine percent responded to silver vine, 68 percent responded to catnip, 53 percent responded to Tatarian honeysuckle, and 47 percent responded to Valerian root. Even more interesting was the fact that 24 percent of the cats responded to all four plants.
 
And so, despite the popular reputation of catnip, more cats – at least in this study – gave a resounding “paws up” to silver vine instead. This response held true for female and male cats, friendly and shy cats, and cats of all ages, although the response to catnip was milder among older cats. In fact, the older cats’ response to silver vine was far more intense than their response to catnip.
 
If your kitty has recently been turning up her nose and turning tail at the sight and the scent of catnip, consider substituting one of the other materials in its place, starting with silver vine. The most effective way to determine which scent truly tickles her feline fancy is by simply “asking” her. How?
 
After first checking with your vet as to the safety of silver vine, Tatarian honeysuckle and Valerian root, begin by placing a stick of silver vine inside a closed sock, leave it out where she can easily find it, supervise her closely, and monitor her response carefully. (This is especially important if yours is a multiple-cat household).
 
Be aware of the fact that this new scent has the potential to make your cat more excited and excitable for a more extended period of time. If she seems to be enjoying it, give her plenty of room and don’t try petting, stroking or playing with her until she seems sated, happily tired and perfectly relaxed. Eureka! Success! You’ve struck kitty gold.
 
Since a cat’s interest in even the most satisfying of scents fades over time, remove any samples she’s played with as soon as you sense her growing bored, and offer them again to her at a later date. But if the bloom is already off the so-called rose, there are those two remaining scents in your cat-contenting arsenal – Tatarian honeysuckle and Valerian root.
 
Then there’s another scenario altogether. Your cat may be totally unaffected – or worse – repelled by the scent of the silver vine, in which case, it should be removed quickly, and a day or two allowed to pass before moving on to the Tatarian honeysuckle in the hope of achieving a better result. If not, try once more, this time with the Valerian root. But if the result is the same, and the “scent” sampling only stresses her out, stop the sampling process immediately.
 
For reasons yet unknown, some cats simply aren’t interested in scents – no matter the source. If yours is one of those finicky felines, fret not, there are many other avenues to explore until she finally finds one that sets her purr-o-meter humming.
 

by Nomi Berger
 
Held on the Tuesday following Thanksgiving, Black Friday and Cyber Monday, this inspired and inspirational global movement both celebrates philanthropy worldwide and jumpstarts the joyous season of GIVING.
 
November 27th marks the 7th anniversary of #GivingTuesday’s inception, and you, our supporters, can honor its intent to encourage and amplify small acts of kindness by making a tax-deductible donation to TCMR.
 
Your contribution, whatever the amount, will allow us to continue providing for the kittens and cats currently in our care, allow us to be adequately prepared for any unforeseen emergencies, and allow us to accept even more needy kitties in the year ahead.
 
In support of #GivingTuesday, Facebook is partnering with PayPal to match up to $7 million in those donations made through Facebook beginning at 7 AM CT and continuing UNTIL THE FUNDS RUN OUT.
 
To have the chance of seeing YOUR donation doubled, please donate as early as paws-ible by clicking the Donate button on our Facebook page (directly below the cover photo).
 
With our extremely high vet bills, unforeseen emergencies, and the costs of the medications we administer, many of them on an ongoing basis, we spent close to $10,000 on medical care alone in 2017. And by the end of 2018, our expenses will be even higher!
 
Because the life of each kitty is purr-ecious to us, no obstacle is too great, no price to steep as we work to ensure each one has the best outcome possible – good health and a loving adoptive home.

Consider little Jake Sully. At a mere 4 weeks, he survived a savage attack by a group of dogs, while two of his littermates perished. His injuries were severe enough to cause temporary paralysis, but with steroids and various medications, physical therapy and good old fashioned TLC, he made, what we considered a miraculous recovery in an astoundingly brief time, and was soon adopted into the most wonderful home.


 While most of those we rescue DO live out our dream for them, others do not. Thankfully, however, our happy tails far surpass our sad ones. And where others may give up on the chronically sick, the physically and the neurologically impaired, we never do. They remain in our care always if necessary, as special needs and sanctuary cats, nurtured, protected, and above all, loved.

Consider Ariel, who is blind and has epilepsy, and requires two medications daily to help control her seizures. Consider Aurora, who is FIV positive and requires two injections every six weeks to help control chronic infections and inflammation in her mouth. Consider Codi, who is FIV positive and has heart disease, and requires two medications daily as well as prescription food. Consider Joey, who is FeLV positive and requires medication twice daily to help prevent the development of crystals in his urine.

Consider the ones we have yet to meet and the “tails” still to be told.
 
Then please consider helping us raise $6,000 to ease our already strained finances so that we may be better equipped to face the challenges ahead.
 
Donations can also be made through the Donate button at www.thecatsmeowrescue.org or directly through PayPal at PayPal.Me/tcmr. 
 
On behalf of the kittens and cats -- past, present and future -- WE THANK YOU!

by Nomi Berger
 
While felines can be finicky about the food they eat, responsible owners can both improve their pets’ nutritional intake and prevent them from joining the estimated 58 percent of American cats who are overweight or obese.
 
1. Never free-feed your cat. The practice of keeping her bowl filled all the time is an open-ended invitation to eat and eat and eat. This can eventually lead to obesity and diabetes. The best way to feed her is by measuring her food and scheduling several mealtimes per day or by using food puzzles instead – after first asking your vet how much food she should be eating.
 
2. Never put your cat on a vegan diet. As an obligate carnivore, her digestive tract isn’t designed for digesting non-meat food, and to maintain her overall health, she must have meat. Cats also require significantly more protein in their diets than either dogs or people.
 
3. Keep her eating environment calm. If she’s snubbing her food bowl, and health issues aren’t the cause, stress may be the culprit. She may feel threatened by other pets in your home, disturbed by the noise of certain appliances, or rattled by too many people walking past while she eats. Set her food bowl down in a quiet place away from all distractions to allow her to eat undisturbed.
 
4. Don’t give her too many treats. While cat treats may be small in size, they’re loaded with calories, and the consumption of so many extra calories can lead to weight gain and obesity. If your kitty expects or “demands” a treat, be clever – and creative -- about it. Make her “work” for her treat by throwing it across the room or hiding it inside a food puzzle. Or better still, redirect her begging behavior to another activity like an interactive game or a lengthy petting session.
 
5. Don’t let her drink milk. Familiar images of kitties lapping up milk from a saucer may have seemed both appealing and adorable in the past, but milk isn’t healthy for cats. Like people, some cats are lactose intolerant and have trouble digesting milk. Another negative: milk is rich in calories and could cause your kitty to gain weight.
 
6. See that her food fits her life stage and lifestyle. When feeding your cat, you must take into account both her age and her activity level. If she’s a kitten, she should be introduced slowly to a variety of foods so that she doesn’t grow up to be a picky eater. If she’s a senior, you must monitor her waistline since some older cats find it difficult to keep weight on. You must also ensure that she’s drinking enough water. As always, though, it’s essential to first speak with your vet about the best diet plan for your cat based on her age, health and body condition.
 
7. Don’t alter her diet too quickly. Slow and steady are the ultimate keys to success. It may seem like a good idea to help your cat lose weight by immediately reducing the amount of food she consumes and/or changing the food itself. But drastically reducing the amount of food she eats can lead to hepatic lipidosis, a potentially fatal liver condition, while sudden changes in her food can cause vomiting and/or diarrhea. If you’re intent on changing her diet, always do it gradually and in consultation with your vet.

by Nomi Berger
 
Does your cat play constantly and contentedly with toilet paper? Does she unroll it sheet by sheet from its cardboard tube, bat it around, drag it from room to room and quite literally “paper” your home in streamers?
 
If so, any attention you give her for playing with toilet paper as though it were a toy --whether negative or positive – will, in all likelihood encourage her to continue. Why, then does a cat play with toilet paper in the first place? She may be acting on her instinct to hunt, imitating your own actions in the bathroom or simply trying to keep herself occupied. Regardless of her motivation, the solution is both prevention and redirection – shifting her focus away from the toilet paper towards more acceptable, alternative behaviors.
 
Simply shutting the door when you’re not around makes the bathroom(s) off-limits to your cat. A toilet paper holder that completely covers the roll can be a useful alternative if it’s difficult to keep the bathroom door(s) closed all the time.
 
Provide more creative outlets for your cat’s energy and reward her when she chooses them. Because of their instinctual desire to hunt, cats enjoy playing with interactive toys that can be “ripped” and “pulled apart” -- mimicking the movements they make when killing and devouring their prey in the wild. Food puzzles are an excellent option. There is a wide range of kitty food puzzles designed to provide them with the hunting experience they crave. Movable puzzles whose contents are dislodged or removed by your cat’s paws are particularly effective.
 
Begin with easy-to-access food puzzles, and as your cat learns how to make them work, increase the degree of difficulty. To make them even more enticing and exciting, fill them with kibble or treats.
 
To encourage her exploratory behavior, hide the food puzzles, some of her most highly prized toys and tiny boxes of cat grass throughout your home, targeting those areas she’s especially fond of such as perches and climbing structures. Rotate them from time to time to keep her “hunts” interesting and to keep her on her paws.
 
When you’re not at home, keep her entertained – and hopefully away from attacking the toilet paper – by purchasing and using toys with remote-control options, motion-sensor toys, timed toys and/or hanging toys designed for being batted about.
 
Provided your cat doesn’t EAT paper, consider offering her a designated alternative that she can claw up and bed down in, such as a cardboard box filled with shredded or crumpled up paper or newspaper. And always ensure that a scratching post or two is placed in easily accessible areas.
 
Whenever your cat plays with the right toys or engages in the appropriate activities, reward and reinforce her paws-itive behavior with treats, petting and praise. If, however, you catch her “red pawed” in the act of toying with the toilet paper, calmly redirect her attention, and clean up the “crime scene” once she’s safely out of sight. Punishing her may not only reinforce this unwanted behavior but cause increased tension in your relationship.
 
Last but most importantly, if your cat IS eating the toilet paper, speak to your vet or seek help from a certified animal behaviorist.

by Nomi Berger
 
While plastic bowls are cheap, their cost to your cat can be high!
 
Dangerous as food and water bowls, plastics scratch and the bowls’ porous surfaces trap bacteria that thrive on leftover food and saliva. Even after the bowls are cleaned, they may still be contaminated, since washing only cleans their smooth surfaces and doesn’t remove any of the bacteria lurking inside even the smallest of scratches.
 
Plastic both contains and emits a synthetic hormone called Bisphenal A or BPA. A proven endocrine disrupter, BPA impairs brain and neurological function and causes, among other things, chromosomal and reproductive system disorders, diabetes, obesity, cardiovascular damage and cancer.
 
To make plastic more flexible and resilient, it contains Phthalates, so-called “plasticizers.” Phthalates are known to cause cancer in humans and are listed among the ten most toxic chemicals harmful to our bodies.
 
Plastic may also contain certain levels of lead. And, last but not least, and most benign by comparison: plastic may irritate your cat’s chin and cause feline acne.
 
And so, despite being labeled “BPA free” and certified as food safe by the FDA, bowls made of plastic may still contain Phthalates or lead. The solution for caring cat owners is as simple as simply avoiding plastic altogether.
 
Most experts consider the safest alternatives to be glass, stainless steel and some ceramics. Glass is non-porous and non-toxic (it consists of silica, calcium oxide and sodium carbonate – all of them non-toxic), it doesn’t react with acids or other liquids, is dishwasher safe and is very stable. But avoid glass bowls made in Mexico and many other foreign countries with lower regulations and manufacturing standards than the U.S.
 
Stainless steel is lightweight, unbreakable and long lasting. Sanitary and germ-resistant because bacteria can’t enter its hard, non-porous surface, it doesn’t scratch easily, stain or rust despite constant use, doesn’t react with liquids or foods, is easy to clean and is dishwasher safe.
 
If considering ceramic bowls, make certain they’re of the highest quality (never buy cheap ceramic bowls made in China), dishwasher safe and have a lead-free, food-grade glaze. To ensure your cat’s safety, they, along with glass bowls, should be quickly discarded if they develop chips or cracks.
 
Whatever choice you, as a conscientious cat owner, make, be certain to wash your cat’s bowls thoroughly after each use with soap and water and dry them well to kill any lingering germs. Put wet food bowls in the dishwasher at least three to four times a week to sterilize them or, even better, daily. Cats don’t like eating or drinking from dirty bowls, and being as highly sensitive to smell as they are, may express their displeasure by refusing to eat or drink anything at all.
 
But then, who could blame them?

by Nomi Berger

For those pondering the how and why of that phenomenon known as purring, numerous theories abound.
 
As for how: Most experts now believe that purrs are created by the laryngeal and diaphragmatic muscles in combination with a neural oscillator in the brain. A message from the neural oscillator to the laryngeal muscles causes them to vibrate and this movement controls the amount of air passing through. Purring occurs during inhalation and exhalation. Some purrs are so low, they’re felt more than heard, while others are so loud, they can be heard from across the room.
 
As for why, paw-lease peruse the following:
 
1. Newborn kittens and their moms purr to stay safe.
 
Purring is essential to the survival of newborn kittens. Welcomed into the world by the soft vibrations of their mother’s purrs, they may be blind and deaf, but they can feel vibrations. Like homing devices, these purrs guide the newborns to the protective warmth of their mother’s body and to their first meals.
 
Kittens start communicating through purrs to their mother and other siblings when they’re two days old. Unable to meow while they nurse, they manifest their contentment instead by purring, and their mom will purr comfortingly back at them.
 
Springing from the primal need for survival in the wild, the vibrations of a vulnerable mother cat’s purrs when she’s giving birth are less likely than cries or other vocalizations to attract the attention of hungry predators. Purring also releases endorphins, reducing her pain while simultaneously reassuring her newborns.
 
2. Cats purr when they crave attention.
 
Since adoring cat parents lavish their cats with additional cuddles and pets when they purr, cats will often begin to purr when they “want” something – from affection and playtime to food and treats.
 
Luckily, however, theirs is a mutual admiration society! The clever kitties’ sweet, relaxing sounds boost their owners’ moods and lower their blood pressure.
 
3. Cats purr when stressed, in pain or sick because it has healing powers.
 
Studies have found that purrs oscillate at a low frequency of 25 to 150 HZ. This frequency promotes bone healing and eases muscle pain. Clinical trials of people receiving ultrasound treatments have shown that low-frequency intensity ultrasound accelerates the healing of fractures.
 
Some reports also show that cats heal faster than animals who don’t purr because of the endorphins their purring releases – much like those released by a mother cat in labor.
 
4. Cats purr as a form of low-key exercise.
 
Cats are famous for conserving their energy by lounging and napping. And since they purr while they rest, the vibrations from those purrs help to increase the density of their bones. This in turn keeps their bones healthy and strong and prepped for the next opportunity to pounce on their prey – whether it’s another playful kitty or a bouncing laser dot, the feather on a dancing wand toy or their loving owners’ open laps.

by Nomi Berger
 
Pet parents find that cats of all ages -- from playful kittens to sedentary seniors -- will often engage in laser pointer play, stimulating them and encouraging them to be more mobile with minimal effort on their humans’ part.
 
But as ideal as it sounds, are laser toys good for -- even safe for – your cat?
 
To allay your concerns, begin by choosing a toy specifically designed for cats. This means avoiding all high-powered laser pointers and any not manufactured and sold with felines in mind. Those considered safe should have a power rating of five milliwatts or less. Anything higher is potentially dangerous. Most importantly, never point the laser directly at your cat’s face or eyes, projecting its dancing red dot instead on any inanimate object within her field of vision. And because she can injure herself by lunging into a wall or cabinet or by jumping off furniture, avoid aiming the dot at any high places and stay away from stairs.
 
Engaging your cat in laser play helps keep her fit and helps strengthen the bond between you. Chasing an erratically moving laser light also mimics her hunting behavior, often triggering her strong and instinctual prey drive. But for the greatest success, it’s essential that you keep each play session short and fun, challenging and engaging, and to end the session when your cat seems to be losing interest in it. If, however, you insist on continuing, she’ll either ignore the dot, stop playing altogether or simply stalk off with a sassy swish of her tail and a “so there!” shake of her head. Get the hint?
 
The major drawback to a laser pointer, though, is that it’s a toy your cat cannot catch. For such a prey-driven animal, there’s no natural “end” to the game, no “reward”, which can prove extremely frustrating for her. Some kitties may even begin to show signs of anxiety or exhibit such stress-related behaviors as clawing at the furniture, inappropriate chewing or aggression.
 
To prevent this, offer your cat several high-value treats together with pets and praise at the end of each play session. Two other options are having the red dot “land” on a toy she likes so that she can pounce and close her paws around it or switching from the laser to a toy on a fishing rod so that she feel the joy of catching her prey and “killing” it.

by Nomi Berger
 
While fetch is a game most commonly associated with dogs, cats have also been known to enjoy playing fetch with their owners. The Siamese, for example, are felines famous for their love of fetch, but any kitty has the capacity to learn how to retrieve provided her owner is committed to teaching her the ABC’s of the game.
 
Whereas dogs may awaken from a deep sleep the second they hear their owners utter the magic word “play”, the same can’t be said for their more mellow meow-mates. To them, naptime is strictly that, naptime, thereby making it essential for committed coaches to catch their cats when they’re fully alert and feeling naturally energetic.
 
To capture and hold your own cat’s attention, choose a toy that she enjoys playing with, but isn’t always available. Test how catch-able it is by sliding it across the floor or tossing it down a hallway before you begin. Why? Because some toys are extremely light and aren’t fit for fetching.
 
Once you’ve chosen the ideal toy and your cat’s “all ears”, put some high-value treats in your hand and position yourself in such a way that you can toss the toy and she’ll have plenty of room to run after it. Then, show her the toy and toss it. While she may chase after it, she probably won’t return it to you on the first or even the second attempt.
 
Call her back by “flashing” her the treats as an incentive. If she drops the toy and comes running or if she has the toy in her mouth but won’t bring it back, you’ll have to, slowly and patiently, show her precisely what you want her to do. Walk over to the toy and pick it up from the floor or gently remove it from her mouth and return to your starting position.
 
Show her that you have the toy and call her to come to you. If she doesn’t respond, go over to her, lift her up and bring her back with you to the starting point. Then, once you, your cat, and the toy are all in the same place, toss the toy again. Repeat these steps again. And again. And again.
 
It may require several sessions before your cat puts the entire game together. Always use the same starting point and always toss the toy in the same direction. As with any new action or behavior, repetition and consistency are key. The first time she successfully fetches the toy, reward her with affection, praise, and some of those high-value treats. The idea is to have her associate her action with a reward she finds especially satisfying.
 
Cats are extremely intelligent, but they’re also extremely independent. Some of them may learn to play fetch in one session, others may learn over a period of several days, while still others may simply refuse to participate. Take training one step at a time, one day at a time, and if your kitty still turns paws down at playing what’s primarily a dog’s game, choose one that truly tickles her fickle feline fancy instead.