by Nomi Berger
 
Does your kitty suck on blankets – or other “feel good” fabrics -- while purring in pure feline bliss?
 
Have you ever pondered the reasons behind this paw-ticular behavior?
 
If so, consider these five paws-ibilities and wonder no more.
 
1. Kittens suck on blankets if separated too early from their mothers: In a purr-fect world, kittens should remain with their mothers for at least the first eight weeks of their lives. If, however, they’re orphaned and raised instead by humans, these so-called “bottle baby” kittens are more prone to sucking on blankets than those suckled by and socialized by their natural mothers.
 
2. Some cat breeds are more inclined than others to suck on blankets: Siamese and other Oriental breeds are more likely to “nurse” on all things fabric than other cat breeds. While there doesn’t appear to be a genetic cause for this behavior, it’s a well-known fact that Oriental cats require a longer weaning period than most other cats.
 
3. Sucking on blankets is a form of relaxation: Much like thumb sucking in young children, sucking on blankets provides your cat with a sense of well being, safety and comfort. An especially sensitive kitten may mature into a blanket-sucking cat because this behavior is a replication of and a reminder of how secure she felt when she was surrounded by her mother and littermates.
 
4. Sucking on fabrics such as clothing is a demonstration of trust: If your cat settles herself in your lap and begins “nursing” on your clothes, she’s showing you that she has complete faith in your ability to protect her from harm. Why? Because this behavior demands intense concentration on her part and it would be difficult for her to focus that intently if she didn’t feel completely safe with you.
 
5. Sucking on blankets is a way of coping with extreme stress: There is, unfortunately, a negative answer to explain this behavior. How ironic is it that “nursing” can be indicative of either complete trust or extreme anxiety? When a cat initiates a behavior that reminds her of the safety she felt as a kitten to comfort herself when she occasionally feels stressed, it may be considered sweet or cute. But when anxiety pervades every aspect of her life to the point where she’s continually “suckling” in an attempt to soothe herself, it’s a problem.
 
What then should you do if your cat is sucking on blankets or other fabrics and you’re worried about it? Start by assessing her surroundings, make a concerted effort to determine the root of her stress, and do everything you can to remedy it. Enrich her environment by adding vertical and horizontal spaces for her to explore – from multi-tiered cat trees to stepped wall ledges. Spend more time with her engaging in interactive play with an expanded assortment of wands and toys to distract her and help her to rebuild her confidence and trust. If all else fails, consult a cat behaviorist or speak to your vet who may prescribe a short course of anti-anxiety medication for her.

by Nomi Berger
 
Cat tunnels are the purr-fect way to enrich your kitty’s environment.
 
Why? For the simple – and obvious – reason that cats love to hide. Your particular cat may be hiding because she’s frightened or because she just wants to play. Others prefer to be tucked away while they sleep in order to feel safe or to stay warm. But whatever the reason, hiding is an essential part of a cat’s life and it’s equally essential that you provide yours with the opportunity to do so.
 
You can purchase fabric cat tunnels either online or at your local pet products store. They come in many different lengths and styles, depending on your budget and the size of your room(s). Some even have holes cut into the middle of them that allow your cat to poke her head through or to pop her entire body through. You can opt to make your own tunnel by using paper bags. Cut out the bottoms of the bags and tape several of them together. To increase the tunnel’s stability and prevent it from collapsing, “roll” a cuff on each end of each bag before attaching them. For tunnels with greater durability, use long boxes instead. Cats, as every cat owner knows, LOVE boxes.
 
Before you engage your cat in any interactive playtime, place her tunnel on the floor and one of her favorite toys on the floor outside of it. Then watch her “lie low” while she waits for the precise moment to pounce on her “prey.” Alternatively, you can put a toy inside the tunnel beforehand to pique her curiosity and interest. To keep her constructively occupied on her own, place a puzzle feeder or an especially enticing new toy inside the tunnel for her to discover and engage with, hopefully, on and off for hours.
 
If your cat likes being hidden when she sleeps but isn’t fond of sleeping in an enclosed bed, picture her stretched out languidly in a cat tunnel. A tunnel will keep her both hidden and ready to “pounce” should a tempting bit of “prey” (aka toys or shoes) wander past her field of vision.
 
If yours is a multi-cat household with a high degree of tension in it or if your single cat’s particularly timid, set down tunnels in several of your rooms. This way, any cat can walk through any room and not feel as threatened or exposed.
 
If you’ve recently brought a new kitty home and she’s fearful of her strange surroundings, use tunnels to help allay those fears. Place one in the middle of her “designated” room to encourage her to explore her new environment, paw step by paw step, while still feeling protected. If she’s hiding in a closet or under the bed, set down one tunnel leading to her food and water bowls and another to her litter box. To keep from spending money on multiple tunnels, consider using your homemade paper bag tunnels instead.
 
Tantalizingly thrilling for kittens, cat tunnels can provide them with endless entertaining possibilities as they frisk and frolic about in their expanding world. For adults who seem to have lost their appetite for playing, adding a tunnel to your playtime together may be all the incentive they need to put a new spring in their step. For seniors, geriatric cats or those with limited mobility, a tunnel allows them to be tucked cozily away without having to do more than poke out a paw from time to time to bat at a toy being teasingly dangled from the end of a wand.

by Nomi Berger
 
CLEANING
 
Fabric and rope toys: Most can be washed by hand in hot, soapy water or in hot water in your washing machine. While the hot water and detergent kills the germs, washing them should remove the stains. If using your machine, place your cat’s toys in a garment bag to keep them separate from any other items and avoid scented detergents and fabric softeners that may offend kitty’s sensitive nose. Hang the fabric toys up rather than machine dry them because the dryer can cause them to shrink or warp and the rope toys to unravel.
 
Plastic toys and puzzle games: Wash them by hand with dish detergent and hot water to kill any germs. Remove any sticky residue with a sponge or dishcloth, not a scrubber. Scrubbers create tiny scratches that can harbor bacteria, not only decreasing the life of the toys and games but potentially making your cat ill. Dishwashers aren’t recommended since soft plastics will warp in the heat and lightweight toys can get thrown around inside, possibly breaking both the toy and the dishwasher itself.
 
Fur toys: Whether real or artificial, fur toys are too fragile for the washing machine. Hand wash them in hot, soapy water, rinse them thoroughly, and hang them up to dry.
 
Feather toys: Rinse the feather parts in hot water and hang the toys up to dry.
 
Catnip toys: Most catnip toys are made of fabric, and since cats constantly chew and suck on them, detergent and fabric softeners may contaminate the catnip inside. The safest option is hand rinsing them, wringing them out carefully, then hanging them up to dry. And NEVER put catnip toys in the dryer – the catnip will lose its potency. If, however, your toys are refillable, simply remove the old catnip, rinse the toys themselves in hot water, and put fresh catnip inside once the toys are dry.
 
TOSSING
 
Fabric toys and catnip toys: When a toy starts to rip and the stuffing starts to fall out, throw it away. Otherwise, your cat may swallow some of that stuffing which could cause an intestinal blockage, resulting in an expensive emergency visit to the vet. If your cat urinates on a toy or a toy lands in a soiled litter box, toss it out. No amount of washing will eliminate those odors.
 
Plastic toys: If you notice scratches in any of these toys, toss them out promptly because of the aforementioned issue of bacterial buildup. Similarly, if a toy breaks or small parts have started to come off, chuck it before those parts end up inside your cat’s stomach.
 
Fur and feather toys: Once the feather breaks or begins to fall apart, throw it out and replace it. Fur toys should be thrown out immediately if they’re either soiled by urine or feces or so tattered that kitty is at risk of swallowing bits and pieces of the torn fur.

by Nomi Berger
 
If you’re currently working from home, like millions of other cat owners, the success of this “new normal” – however long it lasts – will depend as much on you as on the personality of your particular pet.
 
Cats are, essentially and notoriously, creatures of habit. And while some may relish your sudden availability -- whether it’s to play with them, pet them or cuddle with them – others may find your presence disrupts the peace and calm of their daily routine. Examples: it might be more difficult for them to sleep and/or they might not want to “share” the sofa with you. But most importantly, being as sensitive as they are, they’re certain to pick up on your own anxiety and stress.
 
Vital to any solution is: being patient with yourself and your kitty, maintaining as much of a regular routine as possible, including her feeding schedule, your own household, eating and sleeping schedules, and enriching your time together through additional activities.
 
Consider these suggestions to ensure – or at least attempt to ensure – that your kitty keeps her paws to herself and off the keys of your computer until work time is over for the day and playtime can commence.
 
Tire her out early by establishing an exercise and activity regime BEFORE you begin to work. A few minutes of vigorous play with the help of an enticing feather wand or a dancing laser pointer followed by some high quality treats in a food puzzle are excellent ways to prime your kitty for a well-earned nap. A tired cat with a full tummy is a contented cat – one who hopefully won’t clamber all over you while you’re trying to both focus and be productive as you adjust to the newness of your own situation.
 
Take breaks from what you’re doing throughout the day to literally stretch and clear your head. And while you’re relaxing, what more pleasant way to enhance that down time than by incorporating your cat into it? Make room for some mutually satisfying snuggles and play with her for a few minutes before resuming your work.
 
During important calls, distract and occupy her by using anything from automated toys and, once again, treat-filled food puzzles to cardboard boxes wadded with tissue paper and sprinkled with treats. Move a chair, a cat tree or a cat condo to a different window and allow her an entirely new view of the world outside, capturing and holding her interest for as long as – or even longer than -- those calls may take.
 
Offer her an especially cozy and comfortable alternative to both you and your computer. Place a heated cat bed on a chair near your desk (place one in a corner of your desk if it’s large enough), thereby providing her with a highly desirable spot to lie instead of against the back of your neck, on your shoulder or across the keyboard. If you don’t have a heated cat bed, plump up a fluffy blanket on a tall, cleared off shelf nearby, line it with several of her favorite toys and let her watch you work from “on high.”
 
Never reward any behaviors you don’t want continued. If your cat meows or yowls at you and you “talk back”, pet her or even shout at her, that could be exactly the response – and attention – she wants. And that’s a mistake! Reward good behaviors – calmness, quiet and compliance -- with high quality treats and/or praise.
 
As a last resort, close the door of the room in which you’re working, but be prepared for a kitty protest. If your cat starts scratching at the door, ignore her, and if necessary, place a simple deterrent like a piece of cardboard with sticky tape on it right outside the door. This will make it highly unpleasant for her to continue her protest within earshot of you.
 
During these unprecedented times, when social distancing is, itself, the “new normal”, hopefully you can find comfort in the reassuring presence of your BFF – beloved feline friend.

by Nomi Berger
 
Confronting the global pandemic and how it’s affected our daily lives is being compounded by the challenge of separating fact from fiction. Whether you’re now working from home, self-isolating or even ill with COVID-19, here’s what you should know about the novel coronavirus and your cherished kitties.
 
According to the experts, you CANNOT catch COVID-19 from your cats nor can you give it to them. The web site of the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention states: “At this time, there is no evidence that companion animals, including cats, can spread COVID-19.” One caveat: until more is known about this particular virus.
 
According to a vet with the American Veterinary Medical Association, there have been no cases of cats testing positive for or showing signs of the disease. And although there is a coronavirus specific to cats, it isn’t contagious to humans.
 
Are you self-isolating and symptom-free? Some authorities suggest stocking up on two weeks worth of food, medications, paper products and sanitizing supplies for yourself and the same amount of food, cat litter and other items for your kitty. Other crisis response experts, however, urge stocking up on at least a month’s worth for both of you. Why? Not only because of the unfortunate reality of hoarding and empty store shelves, but the possibility of your exhibiting symptoms only towards the end of your self-isolation.
 
If, however, you’re sick with COVID-19, you should restrict contact with your cat just as you should restrict contact with every other member of your household. Avoid petting and snuggling your cat, being kissed or licked by her, and sharing your food with her. Wash your hands before and after you interact with her and wear a facemask.
 
Why? If you sneeze or cough on your cat and someone in your home pets her, that person could potentially pick up the infection. While the CDC hasn’t YET recorded any cases of this happening, they still recommend exercising an abundance of caution. When in doubt, have a healthy person in your household be your cat’s primary caregiver temporarily (if you live alone, ask a family member or reliable friend to act on your behalf). Being sick is NO reason to either surrender or abandon her!
 
If you’re ill and your cat has a non-urgent, wellness appointment with the vet, call your vet, explain the situation and reschedule your appointment. Even if you’re not ill, err on the side of caution, and call your vet to reschedule the visit anyway. If, on the other hand, you’re ill, quarantined, and your cat needs urgent veterinary care, contact your vet and your public health officials so that she can receive the attention she requires (this is where your kitty’s temporary guardian comes in) while you remain in quarantine.
 
For more information on this continually evolving situation, visit the Centers for Disease Control web site at: https://www.cdc.gov/coronavirus/2019-ncov/whats-new-all.html

by Nomi Berger
 
1. It gives your kitty some purrs-onal space: Cats aren’t as sociable as dogs. At times they may curl up beside you on the couch while at others they may choose to be alone -- particularly in a multi-pet household. A cat tree provides them with a safe space that’s solely theirs.
 
2. It’s entertaining: Curiosity is part of a cat’s nature, and being agile and athletic, they will happily jump onto kitchen counters, the refrigerator, and high cupboards – not to mention your furniture -- to satisfy their need to explore and stay active. A cat tree, particularly tall ones, can afford them hours of stimulation and fun as they leap from perch to perch and play with, bat about and swat at the tree’s attached toys.
 
3. It provides exercise: Not only should cats maintain a healthy weight, they must also exercise – and that means frisking and frolicking and jumping around. An elaborate cat tree is the ideal structure to keep them constructively occupied and engaged especially if you’re not home for long periods of time.
 
4. It helps reduce anxiety: If your cat hides beneath beds or underneath furniture when she hears a loud noise or when guests come to call, provide her with a sense of safety, a “go to” place, in the form of a cat tree. As an added incentive, spray some catnip on its perches and dangling toys and watch her fearfulness slowly dissipate, turning her from anxious to appeased, from cautious to calm.
 
5. It encourages sharing: Since cats are extremely territorial and would rather fight than share – whether it’s a couch or a windowsill – a cat tree is the perfect solution. Ensuring that all of the cats in a multi-cat household feel safe and “at home” is vital for their mental health. Put up an oversized tree with various levels and perches, thereby enabling them to “mark” their own area and to co-exist peacefully without treading on one another’s paws.
 
6. It’s a cat’s “castle”: Whatever the breed, all felines feel the need to be kings or queens of their “castles” and the meow-sters of all they survey. In fact, nothing delights them more than climbing onto the highest spot in the room and gazing for hours at their owners below. A tantalizingly tall tower will not only give them a sense of control but also provide them with an attractive alternative to scratching your furniture and covering other high surfaces with their hair. What better place to self-groom in satisfaction while sitting at the highest level of the tree and staring down at the room – and people -- below or gazing out the window at the wide and wondrous world?

by Nomi Berger
 
Why do cats have whiskers? For more reasons than they can count on one paw. Consider then, these seven scintillating snippets about a kitty’s wondrous whiskers.
 
1. They are especially sensitive: Since a cat’s whiskers are rooted more deeply in the skin than ordinary fur, the area around them has a very generous supply of blood and nerves. This makes the whiskers’ tips so sensitive that they can detect the slightest change in the direction of a breeze. On the downside, such hypersensitivity can actually cause your cat pain if you “toy” with them in any way. And because eating from a narrow bowl that presses on her whiskers can also be painful, try putting her food on a plate instead or buy her a wide, flat feeding bowl.
 
2. They aren’t only on her nose: Besides the eight to 12 whiskers your cat has on either side of her nose, she has shorter whiskers above her eyes, on her chin and on the backs of her lower front legs.
 
3. They help her figure out where she’ll fit: Because your cat’s whiskers are usually about as long as she is wide, they assist her in determining the width of various openings and whether or not she can safely and successfully slide her body through them.
 
4. They assist her in effectively hunting prey: Cats are farsighted (they don’t see well up close). This means that when they catch their prey, whether that prey is a live mouse or a favorite feather toy, they need a way to sense their prey is in the proper position for the “fatal” bite. Most crucial for this purpose are the whiskers on the backs of her forelegs and to a lesser degree, those on her chin and the sides of her nose.
 
5. They serve as an emotional barometer: The position of your cat’s whiskers can be an indicator of her mood. If her whiskers are relaxed and sticking out sideways, it means that she’s calm. If they’re pushed forward, it means that she’s alert and excited. If they’re flattened against her cheeks, it means that she’s angry or scared. But to confirm the message her whiskers are sending, examine the position of her ears and tail as well.
 
6. They should never be cut: While your cat sheds a few whiskers from time to time, you should never, ever trim them. She’ll become disoriented, dizzy and confused because she’s no longer receiving the vital navigational signals she needs. Imagine if you were suddenly blindfolded and unable to remove the blindfold for WEEKS! This is precisely how your kitty will feel if you cut her all-important whiskers.
 
7. They can change color: Don’t be surprised or alarmed if you discover a white whisker growing in your kitty’s otherwise solid black fur as she gets older. Like most people, cats will begin going gray with age, but it’s more noticeable in cats whose fur is a dark, solid color as opposed to patterned.

by Nomi Berger
 
When your cherished cat companion dies, the process of grieving the love you’ve lost is painfully similar to the process of grieving the loss of a beloved family member or friend.
 
According to the longstanding Kubler-Ross model, there are five stages of grief -- denial, anger, bargaining, depression and ultimately, acceptance.
 
Denial, like the other stages of grief, is different for everyone, and you may even skip it completely. While you’ll eventually come to terms with losing your cat, denying that loss at first is perfectly normal.
 
You may feel angry at your cat for dying. You may feel angry at yourself, at a disease or at the world in general. This too is normal. HOW you react to your anger is what’s important. It can range from screaming into your pillow, crying or writing down your emotions to going for long runs, working out at the gym or cleaning your home. Whatever the outlet, its purpose is to allow your mind and body time to process your anger.
 
The key is not staying angry too long. Although nothing can change what’s happened, remind yourself that you’re simply grieving and that being angry is a part of the grieving process. Perhaps the most painful fact to face, however, is that there truly is no time limit to grief.
 
Bargaining, being the third stage, is when you try to figure out what you could have done differently to prevent your cat’s death. Expressed through such phrases as “if only” and “what if”, it’s also a desperate attempt to try and avoid the grief through a kind of negotiation with a higher power -- if you change this, I’ll change that -- to bring back your cat.
 
Depression, as the fourth stage of grief, is characterized by such expressions of sadness as endlessly crying or crying in spurts, sleeping a great deal, not wanting to eat or participate in any of your usual activities, feeling especially lonely and utterly desolate. Honor these emotions, yet find solace in knowing that they’ll be easier to manage as time passes, that they’ll dissipate slowly but surely, and that you won’t feel this depressed forever.
 
It may take time, but acceptance, the fifth and final stage in the grieving process, is coming to terms with and adjusting to life without your beloved cat. Acceptance doesn’t mean forgetting, nor should it be seen as an act of betrayal. On the contrary, acceptance means celebrating the sweet and unique life your cat lived and acknowledging the fact that no other cat can replace the one you’ve lost. At this point, remembering can finally bring smiles instead of tears.
 
If you’re uncertain about how to process your own grief, consider the following:
• Read the magnificent poem “The Rainbow Bridge,” and let the waves of grief wash over you and cleanse you.
• Surround yourself with people who knew and loved your cat and share all of your feelings together.
• If you have other pets, spend more quality time with them. Pets, like people, also grieve the loss of their playmates.
• Put together a photo album, scrapbook or shadow box as a way of reminding you of the happy times you and your cat shared together.
• Redirect your attention and focus by doing those things you enjoy most.
• Go online to a forum or support group for people who are experiencing the loss of their own pets.
• See a grief counselor or therapist because talk therapy is a powerful tool and, in many cases, vital to your personal healing.
• Consider getting a new cat some day. Never meant as a replacement for the one who died, a new cat may help fill the current emptiness in your heart.

by Nomi Berger
 
Like people, cats usually sneeze because their nasal passages are irritated. In most cases, it’s caused by a pollen allergy, chemical fumes associated with various household solvents, inhaled tobacco smoke, perfumes or foreign objects such as pieces of fur or grass.
 
Excessive sneezing, however, may signal a more serious issue. If your kitty sneezes many times in a row or continues to sneeze over the course of several days, bring her to the vet. She may be suffering from a viral, bacterial or fungal infection in her upper respiratory tract.
 
Dental disease can cause sneezing particularly if it involves a root infection. Such infections can allow bacteria to settle in her nasal sinuses resulting in inflammation and sneezing.
 
Feline herpes virus (FHV) may be another cause. Highly contagious between cats, it’s transmitted primarily through saliva, urine or feces, and eye or nose secretions. While there’s no cure for FHV, there are treatments that allow cats to live normal lives.
 
Feline Calicivirus (FCV) is also highly contagious between cats, passed in the same manner as FHV -- through bodily fluids. If your cat isn’t already vaccinated, consider doing so. In mild cases, FCV can be treated at home with prescribed medications. In more serious cases your vet may recommend leaving your cat at the hospital for a few days, and if yours is a multi-cat household, when she returns home, keep her quarantined from the other cats.
 
Feline Immunodeficiency Virus (FIV) is slow acting and your cat may not show symptoms until years after she’s been infected. FIV is typically transmitted through bite wounds or from pregnant mothers to their kittens. Sadly, there’s no cure for FIV, but your vet can treat any secondary infection as it arises, and with treatment, cats can live fairly normal lives. But left untreated, FIV can lead to kidney failure or cancer.
 
Chlamydiosis or feline chlamydia doesn’t require direct contact for infection. Bacteria from a sneeze or a cough can travel across a room or be passed by people through touch if they have the bacteria on their hands. Chlamydiosis can be treated with antibiotics and symptoms are typically gone within six weeks.
 
Because there are many other infections that could be behind your cat’s ongoing sneezing, err on the side of caution and bring her to your vet as quickly as paws-ible.

by Nomi Berger

Head pressing is the compulsive act of a cat repeatedly and relentlessly pressing her head against a wall or any other hard surface for no apparent reason. Different from head butting -- when a cat rubs or bumps her head, particularly against a person, as a sign of affection -- head pressing is usually a sign of damage to her nervous system.
 
Should you notice your kitty engaging in head pressing, it’s essential to pay a prompt visit to your vet. Provide your vet with a comprehensive history of your cat’s overall health, noting when the head pressing began and what incidents may have preceded it. Describe any symptoms that accompany her head pressing, including abnormal vocalization, compulsive pacing and circling, changes in learned behavior, seizures, damaged reflexes, disorientation and visual impairment. Some of these symptoms may have already manifested themselves physically – from sores on her feet due to compulsive pacing to injuries on her face or head caused by pressing her head against a hard surface for an extended period of time.
 
After first examining her thoroughly, your vet will then focus on uncovering the underlying cause of her behavior by performing a fundic examination of each retina (the layer of the eye that receives and processes images) and the other structures at the back of each eye. This may reveal irregularities in her brain, some infectious disease or an inflammatory disease. Your vet will also have blood work and a urinalysis done, which could reveal a problem with her metabolic system or indicate the presence of toxins in her system. Other tests may include taking her blood pressure to determine if she has high blood pressure and ordering a CT scan and/or MRI scan of her brain.
 
Armed with the results of these various tests, your vet should be able to pinpoint the reason behind your cat’s head pressing. Some of the most common are a brain tumor, prosencephalon disease (damage to the forebrain and thalamus), encephalitis (inflammation of the brain), liver shunts, disorders of the metabolism, toxic poisoning, an infection (rabies and viruses, fungal and parasitic infections) and acute head trauma, possibly resulting from a car accident.
 
The treatment prescribed will depend on the condition causing the head pressing in the first place. Example: serious issues such as brain tumors or encephalitis may require surgery and hospitalization. Example: if your cat has a metabolic disorder, she may be treated with medications on an outpatient basis.
 
But whatever the treatment, your vet will recommend follow-up neurological examinations to monitor the progress of the condition. If, however, no diagnosis can be made, your cat may continue her head pressing. Be certain, though, to alert your vet as to any new behaviors or symptoms that may appear.

While head pressing is serious, the potential for a full recovery, depending on the underlying cause, is possible for many cats. But sadly, for others, the condition can be fatal.