by Nomi Berger
 
While relatively rare, a cat stroke is always alarming.
 
A stroke occurs when the flow of blood to the brain is obstructed, resulting in almost immediate tissue damage and disruption of your cat’s bodily functions. Therefore, recognizing the symptoms, getting a diagnosis and beginning treatment can mean the difference between life and death for your purr-ecious pet.
 
These symptoms include: seizures and/or staggering; obvious signs of pain or extreme anxiety; unconsciousness; refusal to drink for 24 hours or more; walking in circles; head tilt; overall weakness; change in eye movements/uneven pupils; vomiting, and not eating.
 
If your cat exhibits one or more of these signs, bring her to the vet or to the closest emergency clinic right away! Although not proof paws-itive of a stroke, she does require a prompt and thorough examination.
 
Did you know that there are three variations of strokes? A thrombotic stroke is when a blood clot forms in an artery to the brain. An embolic stroke is when a blood clot forms in another location then gets stuck in the part of the bloodstream that supplies blood to the brain. A hemorrhagic stroke is when a blood vessel inside the brain itself leaks.
 
Any abnormality in your cat’s blood flow, namely, the creation of a blood clot or a ruptured blood vessel, is usually indicative of some underlying issue. While the underlying issue may have gone undetected – and unsuspected – for some time, the obstruction itself can manifest itself suddenly. This is the reason your cat may seem healthy one minute and be in dire straits the next.
 
Some main causes of blood clots and/blood vessel ruptures include thyroid issues, kidney issues, diabetes, traumatic injuries, a heart condition, high blood pressure, and brain lesions.
 
To err on the side of caution, the first step in the vet’s assessment of your cat may be the immediate start of oxygen therapy. Then, to confirm whether or not she has, in fact, suffered a stroke, a CT (computerized tomography) scan and/or MRI (magnetic resonance imaging) will be used. She may also have to spend time in the Intensive Care Unit to have her vital signs monitored and any medications – if necessary -- administered. The kinds of medication used depend on the underlying issue that caused the stroke and may include anti-inflammatory medications as well.
 
Once your stricken cat is, hopefully, cleared to go home with you, her ongoing treatment usually involves keeping her hydrated with subcutaneous fluids and keeping her under careful observation. While many cats will return to normal within two weeks of suffering a minor stroke, the chances of her developing secondary epilepsy are greatly increased, and this is something no cat owner wants to hear.
 
But if you’re familiar with the expression “An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure”, you’ll be relieved to know that the best way to help your cat avoid a stroke in the first place is by preventing it.
 
To accomplish this, ensure that she’s always kept in the best shape paws-ible. Feed her the healthiest of diets and keep her weight stable; keep her mentally stimulated and physically active consistently; keep all environmental stressors to a minimum; take her to the vet both for annual medical exams and at the first sign of any changes in her behavior or appearance.

by Nomi Berger
 
Has your cat been drinking a lot more water recently, and having to urinate more frequently? Has she begun losing weight despite being hungrier than usual and wanting to eat all the time?
 
If so, she may have diabetes. The second most common glandular disorder in cats (hypothyroidism is first), diabetes occurs as a result of a problem with insulin, the hormone that controls blood glucose levels. Similar to humans, cats suffer from two forms of diabetes. In Type 1 diabetes, the cat’s pancreas doesn’t make enough insulin. In Type 2 diabetes, the pancreas can make insulin, but its secretion is impaired. An estimated 80 percent of diabetic cats have Type 2 diabetes.
 
Should your cat be exhibiting these four classic symptoms -- increased thirst and water intake, increased urination, appetite gain and weight loss – bring her to the vet immediately.
 
To make a proper diagnosis, your vet will record all of your cat’s clinical signs, perform a physical examination, and collect blood and urine samples. The presence of elevated blood glucose together with excessive glucose in the urine is indicative of diabetes. Treatment will then depend on the severity of her symptoms, the test results, and whether she has any other health issues that could complicate her therapy. Since every cat responds differently to treatment, your cat’s therapy will be designed specifically for her.
 
New long-acting insulin preparations for humans such as glargine (brand name Lantus) and detemir (brand name Levemir) have also proven to be effective in cats, often resolving their diabetes completely. Which cats go into “diabetic remission” depends on their diet, the type of insulin used, how strictly their blood glucose is regulated, how early the treatment is started (the sooner the better), and whether their pancreas is capable of secreting insulin (as in Type 2 diabetes).
 
Diet is a vital part of your diabetic cat’s therapy. Numerous studies have shown that the ideal diet is a high-protein, low-carbohydrate one, with canned food preferred over dry food. There are many prescription diets designed for this purpose and most vets’ offices carry them.
 
Insulin by injection, however, is the mainstay of her therapy. Both human and veterinary insulin preparations are available, and while all of them work well, remission is more likely to be achieved with the above-mentioned long-acting human insulin preparations. The ideal spot for administering these injections is the loose skin between and around her shoulders (your vet or vet tech can demonstrate this for you).
 
Once your cat’s insulin therapy has started, her blood glucose levels must be assessed frequently to determine whether or not the dosage needs adjusting. Too little insulin and her diabetes won’t be controlled. Too much, on the other hand, can cause life-threatening hypoglycemia (low blood glucose). Fortunately, there are now blood glucose monitoring system kits specifically designed for cats (they include a specially calibrated meter, a lancing device, lancets, test strips, user’s guide and carrying case) that allow you to check her levels at home.
 
The small vein that runs around the edge of your cat’s ear is the easiest location to get a blood sample for the test. Your vet can tell you how often to test her, and you’ll be surprised at how well she tolerates it.
 
While “diabetic remission” is what every cat owner hopes for, not every cat will achieve it, and some who do may relapse at a later date. For the great majority of cats, however, diabetes remains a condition without a cure. But when managed effectively, your cherished companion can still live a long and loving life.

by Nomi Berger
 
As with humans, cognitive dysfunction or dementia in cats is more prevalent the older they get. Because of this, protective pet parents must become proactive pet parents to ensure their cherished companions receive the extra care they require.
 
For senior cats without a specific disease or injury, these are some of the most common behaviors associated with their overall physical and cognitive decline:
 
Confusion and disorientation: Many cats may appear lost or confused in familiar surroundings, including their own home.
 
Changes in responsiveness: Cats may appear to not recognize family members and may respond poorly to formerly familiar commands.
 
Vocalizations, restlessness and/or new sensitivities: Some cats may begin to perform repetitive behaviors or vocalizations such as whimpers or howls, become more restless and/or become more sensitive to loud noises.
 
Reduced activity: Not only will most older cats slow down physically, they may also eat less, groom themselves less, and become less affectionate.  
 
Changes in the sleep-wake cycle: Many senior cats experience disruptions in their sleeping pattern.
 
Changes in house training: Many seem to lose their housetraining skills causing them to have frequent accidents outside their litter boxes.
 
To provide the best possible care for your senior cat, have her thoroughly examined and tested by your vet. The results will reveal whether her new behaviors are due to some other condition or to dementia.
 
If your cat is indeed suffering from dementia, your vet may prescribe a psychoactive drug to improve her brain function. One such drug, Anipryl, is most often used to treat dogs with dementia, but the American Association of Feline Practitioners supports its use in cats – with varying degrees of success.
 
While there’s no cure for dementia, you can slow down the signs and keep your cat as content and comfortable as possible by feeding her a healthy diet, increasing her exercise regime, including games to stimulate her brain, and taking her to the vet every six months.
 
The best diet for cats with dementia is one that’s high in antioxidants -- vitamins C and E, beta carotene and essential fatty acids (Omega-3’s), to which your vet may suggest adding other vitamins and/or supplements. It’s also essential that you keep your cat on a fixed feeding schedule to reduce the chances of her becoming confused.
 
Do your best to be patient and gentle with her. Try not to get frustrated, remaining as calm and supportive as possible. Since companionship is key, keep her engaged with the other members of your family even if she seems to have forgotten them. To keep her “centered”, never rearrange your furniture or make any changes in what, to her, are familiar surroundings. Increase “environmental cues” such as leaving a radio on in rooms she frequents so that she can follow the sound. Remind her of the basic commands she’s forgotten by retraining her – from where to potty to where to sleep.
 
But above all, remember she’s the same cat you’ve always loved and who’s always loved you, and that, with all the resources at your disposal, your time together can still be quality time.

by Nomi Berger
 
Millions of pets go missing each year. Unfortunately, very few of them are ever reunited with their owners. Many of them become and remain strays. Others are taken to pounds or shelters, where they are all too often, euthanized. The luckier ones are saved by rescue organizations and ultimately placed in adoptive homes.
 
But it doesn’t have to be this way. Lately, an increasing number of conscientious cat owners have sought a more permanent solution to this paw-tential source of sleeplessness and stress: micro-chipping.
 
It’s a simple and safe procedure. A veterinarian injects a microchip designed especially for animals -- the size of a grain of rice -- beneath the surface of your cat’s skin between the shoulder blades. Similar to a routine shot, it takes only a few seconds and most animals don’t seem to even feel the implantation. Unlike conventional plastic or metal ID tags, a microchip is permanent and, with no internal energy source, will last the life of your cat. Following the procedure, you must promptly register her with the microchip company (usually for a one-time fee), thus storing her unique, alpha-numeric code in their database.
 
Whenever a lost cat appears at a shelter, humane society or veterinary clinic, she will automatically be scanned for a microchip. If there is one, the screen of the handheld scanner will display her specific code. A simple call to the recovery database using a toll free 800 number enables the code to be traced back to you, her owner. But in order for the system to work efficiently, you MUST keep your cat’s contact information up-to-date.
 
The most complete microchips comply with International Standards Organization (ISO) Standards. These standards define the structure of the microchip’s information content and determine the protocol for scanner-microchip communication. They also include the assignment of a 15-digit numeric identification code to each microchip, made up of the manufacturer’s code or the code for the country in which the cat was implanted as well as each cat’s ID number.
 
As with anything else, however, problems can and do arise. Not all shelters, humane societies, and veterinary offices have scanners. Although rare, microchips can fail, and even universal scanners may not be able to detect every microchip. Accurate detection can also be hampered if pets struggle too much while being scanned or if heavy coats or excess fat deposits cover the implantation site. And because there are an ever-increasing number of animal recovery services, there is, as yet, no single database that links one to the other.
 
Since no method of identification is perfect, the best way owners can protect their cherished kitty companions is by micro-chipping them and never allowing them to roam free.

by Nomi Berger
 
If you approach grooming your cat’s nails with trepidation, hopefully these seven suggestions will help you succeed -- quickly and comfortably.
 
1. Choose your clippers carefully: There are three tools available to you -- tiny scissors with claw-shaped trimming edges, a clipper with a “guillotine” blade that slides across a small hole through which you insert your cat’s claw, and a human fingernail trimmer. Try all three and choose the one that feels most comfortable to you. For best results, always keep the one you select sharp to avoid either crushing your cat’s claw or causing her needless pain.
 
2. Begin slowly: Before your initial attempt at nail trims, begin by accustoming your cat to having her paws handled. Start by petting her, move to stroking her paws, then to gently manipulating her toes as though you were playing “this little piggy went to market”. If she enjoys it, gradually work up to putting gentle pressure on her paw pads to expose her claws. (Since cats have retractile claws, you must gently squeeze each of her toes between your thumb and forefinger to expose each claw). While this may be a slow process, patience is key. The preparatory work you do now will make the actual act of trimming her nails much easier.
 
3. Ask for help: If you’re overly concerned, ask someone to demonstrate the proper technique to you, whether it’s your vet, a groomer or an experienced cat caretaker familiar with your cat. There are also many online resources at your disposal, including a step-by-step guide from Washington State University School of Veterinary Medicine at www.vetmed.wsu.edu/outreach/Pet-Health-Topics/categories/procedures/cats/clipping-your-cat's-claws
 
4. Timing is everything: Select a time when your cat is relaxed. Never attempt to trim her nails just before meals or -- if yours is a multi-cat household – while other cats are hovering nearby.
 
5. Relax: If you approach the procedure in a calm manner, your cat will be more inclined to remain calm as well.
 
6. Reward your cat: Accentuate the paws-itive nature of the experience by rewarding your cat with her favorite treat or a tasty snack, some extra loving or a round of play with her favorite toy. In fact, consider rewarding her after several successfully trimmed nails at first, then taper off as she cooperates more. Never reward her if she runs away or does something you don’t like, such as swat at you. Rewarding her simply reinforces this “bad” behavior.
 
7. One at a time: If your cat starts to squirm after you’ve trimmed only one or two of her nails, stop immediately. Your goal is to make the procedure agreeable not abhorrent.
 
If, however, your cat refuses to cooperate in spite of your best efforts, have her nails trimmed by a groomer or by your vet during her regularly scheduled office visits.

by Nomi Berger
 
Do you live in a multi-cat household? If so, you have probably wondered if your feline friends experience jealousy.
 
Imagine lying peacefully in bed one morning, half-dozing, with one of your two kitties curled up beside you. Imagine your second kitty attempting to join in the “cuddle” only to have your first kitty reach up and smack her hard several times on the head. The implied message: you are HERS at the moment, and she has no intention of sharing you.
 
We as humans would certainly interpret this as jealousy. But do cats get jealous in the same way? According to many animal behaviorists, what WE consider jealousy is known in the feline world as rivalry.
 
Why? Cats are creatures of habit, of predictability, preferring a stable environment with a minimum of changes and challenges. They lay claim to certain places, spaces and toys in their home, and they lay claim to Y-O-U: to your time, your attention and your affection. Short of splitting yourself in two (or three or more equal parts), the result can be kitty cat rivalry.
 
In nature, cats are driven to rival one another for such scarce and highly prized resources as food and clean water. Males will run off other males to keep their resources, including their females and shelter, to themselves. Females keep their domain even smaller while they raise their kittens, and intruders in that space are less than welcome. This isn’t jealousy; it’s a competition for finite resources.
 
While our indoor cats face no such challenges, their instinct to protect their “resources” is deeply ingrained in them and informs how they ultimately behave. Despite their access to a seemingly endless supply of food, water and safe, cozy places to sleep, some cats still find sharing them with others impaws-ible.
 
The easiest way to handle cat-on-cat rivalry in your home is by ensuring there are enough of the essentials to go around, starting with food and fresh water, clean litter boxes and cozy cat beds. If you live in a small apartment with a limited amount of room, add cat trees and shelving to give your kitties more vertical space to roam, along with several snug nooks or cubbies to curl up in.
 
Since you probably top their essential “resources” list, it’s essential that you give each of your cats some quality one-on-one time with you and encourage them to engage in group playtime with one another. Fulfilling their need for attention can be as simple as sitting on the sofa with a cat (or two) on either side of you, petting them, scratching their heads and kissing them – equally! 
 
Whether its name is “jealousy” or “rivalry”, understanding what motivates your cats to behave as they do and what triggers these feelings allows you to hopefully keep them at bay. Avoiding situations that bring out the competitor in them is key to achieving lasting harmony in your multi-cat household – no matter how many possessive pussy cats you have.

by Nomi Berger
 
There are more cats than dogs in American homes and yet they visit a vet far less often than their canine counterparts.
 
Why?
 
Because our prescient pusses can sense what’s coming and both dread and detest the entire process of GETTING to the vet. Some kitties become so stressed that they vomit or defecate out of fear while others morph into hissing, spitting balls of fury.
 
Since annual (twice a year for seniors) wellness exams are essential for monitoring and maintaining your cat’s health, consider the following tips for making the experience as fear free and tear free as paws-ible.
 
1. Bring out your cat’s carrier several days before your scheduled vet appointment so that she can get used to the sight of it. Leave the door open, thereby allowing her to enter it, explore it and exit it at her leisure.
 
2. Place some of your cat’s favorite treats and/or some catnip inside the carrier to encourage her to associate the carrier with a pleasant and positive experience.
 
3. Make the carrier appear less threatening and more inviting by lining it with one of her blankets topped by several of her favorite toys.
 
4. Spray the interior of the carrier with a synthetic feline pheromone product reputed to decrease and even eliminate stress 30 minutes before using it, then gently put your kitty inside and softly close the door.
 
5. Place the carrier in your car and practice making mock trips to the vet by driving around the block. Once ... twice ... Increasing your driving time as long as she seems comfortable, and stopping immediately if she shows any signs of distress. For most cats, the only time they’re crated and inside a car – a frightening experience on its own -- is when they’re going to the vet, setting the stage for a stressful encounter once they arrive. This exercise will hopefully de-sensitize her, preparing her for “the real thing”, while rewarding her with an especially high value treat should help her associate the drive with something pleasurable.
 
6. If none of this helps and your kitty remains stressed both by the drive to the vet and by the visit itself, ask your vet to prescribe a sedative to calm her down for any and all future visits.
 
7. As a last resort, ask if your vet makes house calls. If not, ask for the name of a vet or a clinic that does. For frazzled felines who feel more confident in familiar surroundings, this may be the purr-fect solution.

by Nomi Berger

Does spring announce its arrival by the unusual amount of cat hair covering your home?
 
As your kitty trades her heavy winter coat for a light summer one by shedding – a natural and important process -- she’s helping to remove any dead fur that causes skin irritation. On the other hand, no shedding may be a sign of poor diet or an underlying medical issue, while too much shedding that leads to bald patches or a very thin coat warrants a visit to the vet.
 
Although some breeds shed more -- or less -- than other breeds, their exposure to daylight also plays a part in “signaling” their bodies when it’s time for a seasonal shed. And so, if your cat spends a great deal of time outside in the sunshine or lying in direct sunlight inside, she may be more prone to shedding as the days grow longer.
 
Brushing your cat regularly is the best way to manage any excess hair at the source before it starts wafting through your home in tufts or emanating from kitty herself in the form of hairballs. A good indicator of how often you should brush her is the length and thickness of her coat.
 
If your kitty isn’t used to being brushed or quickly becomes fidgety, it’s important to make the process as stress free as possible for her. Begin with brief sessions and reward her with plenty of praise and high value treats. Once she’s more relaxed, increase the duration of the brushing sessions, and by making it a positive bonding experience between the two of you, she’ll appreciate it even more.
 
Always brush WITH the grain in the natural direction that her fur grows. Brushing out knots and mats can be difficult and some may need to be cut out. If your cat is severely matted, it’s advisable to see a groomer or consult your vet before trying to remove the mats yourself.
 
Longhaired cats are best served by starting with a long, stiff shedding rake or comb that reaches down near the skin and dislodges hair from the undercoat while leaving the outer coat almost entirely unaffected. They should then be brushed at least every two days.
 
For shorthaired cats, begin with a bristle brush. This loosens some of the hair trapped near the skin that causes irritation. Shorthaired cats with a double coat require less brushing than longhaired cats, while those with a single coat need even less. Whatever the length of your cat’s hair, ending each session with a slicker brush (its smaller bristles are ideal for grabbing the hair dislodged by the brushing) is
 
 
another way to keep her coat smooth, shiny and sleek.
 
Lint rollers are also an asset, keeping your clothes as hair free as possible when you leave your home while doing the same for anyone entering your home. Consider those around you who might be allergic to cats, and have a lint roller on hand to remove whatever vestiges of your cat’s hair are clinging to you.
 
To keep your environment as hair free as possible, running an air cleaner, particularly one designed to handle pet hair, can help provided you replace the filters regularly. For carpets, some cat owners use a vacuum while others prefer a rubber broom with squeegee bristles. The bristles help clump the hair together in a ball and seem to work better than vacuuming alone. For tiled or wood floors use a damp mop.
 
If your cat has a favorite spot on the furniture, drape it with an easily washed blanket, and if she sleeps in your bed at night, use a duvet cover that you can remove and wash.
 
Now open your windows and welcome spring!

by Nomi Berger
 
Daylight Saving Time officially begins on March 10th at 2:00 AM.
 
While thankfully close to the official start of spring, many people as well as their pets can find “springing forward” and losing that hour of purr-ecious sleep both disorienting and disturbing.
 
Cats, like all animals, are creatures of habit, and unlike people, they don’t have to check a watch or a clock in order to schedule their day. Blessed with their own internal, biological clock, known as the circadian rhythm, they know exactly when to eat and nap, exercise and sleep.
 
When this rhythm is suddenly disrupted by their owners’ waking up early or returning home from work while they’re still taking their afternoon nap, they can become extremely anxious.
 
Consider three of the ways the start of Daylight Saving Time may affect your own feline friend.
 
Feeding Time: If your cat is used to being fed at the same time every day, when her food unexpectedly arrives before she’s hungry, this early meal might throw off her digestive cycle. She may act out rambunctiously, turn up her nose and stalk off or gulp down her food then meow for more out of habit when her usual feeding time comes around.
 
Medication Time: If your cat is diabetic and receives her medication at a certain time of day, getting it early might be a shock to her system. While an hour usually shouldn’t make much of a difference -- depending on her needs – medicating her early can cause a change in her energy level as her body adjusts to the new insulin schedule. Other medications, such as those for heart failure, can cause problems if they’re administered too early.
 
Together Time: Although many cats are extremely independent and easily able to amuse themselves on their own, others are far more social and rely heavily on more consistent interaction with their owners. If your cat is one of these, used to you both waking up and leaving home at a certain hour, those vital 60 minutes of “lost” together time can cause her undue anxiety.
 
The best way of reducing the negative effects of “springing forward” on your cat is to prepare for the time switch a few weeks early and alter your schedule by a few minutes each day. This gradual change is far less noticeable and far less disruptive than changing everything by an hour all at once.
 
Begin by serving your cat’s meal(s) a few minutes earlier each day. Speak with your vet about the safest way of changing the time(s) she receives any and all of her medications. Leave for work a few minutes earlier each day to acclimate her to your leaving home before the usual time. But most importantly, remain vigilant and be sensitive to any shift in her mood. If she seems anxious or nervous, some extra chin scratches and snuggles may be just what she needs!
 
Tick tock.

by Nomi Berger
 
Problems affecting a cat’s lower urinary tract may prevent the bladder from emptying correctly or may even cause a fatal blockage of the urethra, the tube that connects the bladder to the outside of the cat’s body.
 
All too often, the cause is Feline Lower Urinary Tract Disease (FLUTD). Symptoms include frequent or painful urination, bloody urine and frequent licking of the urinary opening. Essential in treating FLUTD is first determining the cause of it, which may include such endocrine diseases as hyperthyroidism and diabetes mellitus as well as bladder stones, urinary tract blockages, infection or cancer. If the cause can’t be determined, the cat is considered to have cystitis (inflammation of the bladder).
 
The causes of FLUTD include: stones, crystals or accumulated debris in the bladder or urethra; a urethral plug (accumulated debris from urine); bladder inflammation or infection; incontinence from excessive water drinking or weak bladder; injury to, or tumor in the urinary tract; stress; spinal cord problems and a congenital abnormality. Rarely seen in cats younger than a year, the average age is typically four years, with males being more prone to urethral blockages due to their narrower urethras.
 
Signs your cat is having problems with his/her urinary tract include: the inability to urinate or passing only a small amount of urine; bloody or cloudy urine; loss of bladder control and/or dribbling urine; increased frequency of urination or visits to the litter box; straining and/or crying out in pain when attempting to pass urine; prolonged squatting in the litter box; fear/avoidance of the litter box and soiling in inappropriate places; constant licking of the urinary opening; a strong odor of ammonia in the urine; lethargy; vomiting; increased water consumption, and a hard, distended abdomen.
 
If your kitty is either straining to urinate or crying out in pain, see your veterinarian immediately. This could be a medical emergency!
 
To diagnose a lower urinary tract problem, your vet should perform a complete physical examination that includes a urinalysis, urine culture and blood work, and if necessary, x-rays and/or an ultrasound.
 
Depending on the ultimate diagnosis, your vet may recommend one or more of the following courses of action: antibiotics or other medications, dietary changes, increase in water intake and urinary acidifiers; aids in expelling any small stones through the urethra; surgery to remove bladder stones or a tumor or to correct a congenital abnormality; a urinary catheter or surgery to remove a urethral blockage in male cats, and fluid therapy.
 
If left untreated, urinary problems can cause a partial or complete obstruction of the urethra. This, in turn, can quickly lead to kidney failure and/or rupture of the bladder, which can prove fatal.