by Nomi Berger

Facts, fun and fanciful, some purr-haps familiar, others new – for the feline fancier in all of you:

1. Genetically, if somewhat surprisingly, a domestic cat is 95.6% tiger!
2. Although humans have 206 bones in our bodies, cats have, on average, 244 in theirs. The number ranges between 230 and 250 depending on the length of their tails and how many toes they have.
3. An adult cat’s brain is approximately 2 inches long, weighs approximately 1 ounce and has nearly twice as many neurons in her cerebral cortex as a dog.
4. Every cat’s nose is unique -- much like a human’s fingerprints.
5. Cats are blessed with an extra organ that enables them to “taste” scents in the air.
6. Cats’ whiskers are the same width as their bodies.
7. A cat’s tongue contains hundreds of backward-facing keratin spines known as filiform papillae that not only assist her in grooming but allow her to lick bones clean of the tastiest, tiniest morsels of meat.
8. Kittens have 26 teeth and adult cats have 30 teeth.
9. A cat’s purr vibrates at a frequency of 25 to 150 hertz (Hz) -- the same frequency at which bones and muscles repair themselves. Since humans have a range of about 20 to 20,000 Hz, we can not only hear the purr but feel its vibrations.
10. Meowing was a behavior that cats developed in order to communicate with us, and they can have as many as 100 individual vocalizations in their “vocabulary.”
11. A cat’s walk resembles that of a camel or a giraffe – with both right feet going first, followed by both left feet.
12. While a running cat can reach a speed of 30 mph, it’s only for short distances.
13. Cats are capable of jumping up to five times their height.
14. A cat’s back is extremely flexible with up to 53 loosely fitting vertebrae compared with a human’s back that has 34.
15. Males are more likely to be left pawed, females are more likely to be right pawed, while some are ambidextrous.
16. Neutered males live 62% longer than intact males and spayed females live 39% longer than intact females.
17. Cats spend between 12 and 16 hours a day sleeping and devote 1/3 of their waking hours to grooming themselves.
18. The act of self-grooming stimulates blood flow to their skin, regulates their body temperature, and helps them relax.
19. Cats are capable of dreaming kitty cat dreams.
20. Your cat sends out signals that you’re her “property” by rubbing her face and body against you, thereby “marking” you with her distinctive scent.
21. If your cat comes toward you with her tail straight and almost vibrating, this signifies that she’s supremely pleased to see you.
22. When your cat shows you her belly, it’s a sign of trust and relaxation and not necessarily an invitation for a belly rub.
23. When your cat shows you her bum, it’s a gesture of friendship. When she kneads you or “makes biscuits”, it signifies happiness. When she drapes her tail over you, over another cat or even a dog, this means friendship as well.
24. Grimalkin is the name of a female cat, especially an older one.
25. A cat lover is called an ailurophile -- from the Greek word ailuros (cat) and phile (lover).

by Nomi Berger

Although your senior cat may now spend more time lounging and less time playing, she still needs activities to keep her both mentally and physically fit. Could YOU be missing her cue that she’s simply waiting for YOU to take the lead? If so, consider the following to help her release her remembered inner kitten.

If your favorite feline recognizes the images of various animals on TV, she may truly enjoy watching videos of birds, squirrels and other wildlife that have been created expressly for cats. Alternatively, place her cat tree close to a window where she can watch the world or set up a bird feeder outside and place her cat tree near the window facing it.

Because she’s less athletic and agile now than when she was young, ensure that the toys you use to keep her active don’t aggravate such common conditions in the aging as arthritis. Among the best “lower-activity toys” are:
• Cardboard boxes: Cut numerous openings into the sides of several cardboard boxes and place half of them right side up and the other half upside down, creating “cubbies” for her to enter and exit with ease.
• Climbing toys: If she doesn’t already have a cat tree, get her an especially sturdy one with several shelves that will allow her to climb up and down safely without having to leap any appreciable distance.
• Fleece pulls and toys: From something as simple as a soft, thick bathrobe pull to a wide assortment of fleece toys, they not only provide your kitty with something to chase and “capture”, they’re too large to be swallowed.
• Food-dispensing toys: Fill one of a variety of round, plastic food puzzles with high-value treats or kibble, and watch her roll it around and around in an effort to get out and eat her tasty “rewards.”
• Paper bags: Select a safe space in your home, open one or two large bags (grocery bags are best) and provide her with an inexpensive and instant hiding place or “cat cave.”

When interacting personally with your kitty using toys with a long ribbon or string, yarn or rubber band attached, remember that such long, tempting “tails” can be all too easily swallowed -- even by a senior – wreaking havoc with her stomach and intestines. Always store those toys safely out of sight as soon as playtime is done.

While catnip toys appeal to a majority of cats, some cats aren’t affected by it at all. If yours is one of them, keep your finicky senior feline on her toes by enticing her with toys filled with silver vine (the most popular), Tatarian honeysuckle or Valerian root instead.

Practice golf balls with the holes and ping pong balls make ideal toys -- both size and weight-wise -- for senior cats. Place several balls in an enclosed, safe space such as a bathtub and let your kitty have her way with them. You can also put a ball into an empty tissue box and allow her to fish around for it with her paws.

In short, while your senior kitty may not play as long or as hard as she did in her youth, it’s essential that you not only interact with her at least once a day but that you provide her with ample opportunities to stay engaged and amused on her own. What more paws-itive way could there be to keep her inner kitten alive and out there for all to see?

Curious as to whether or not YOUR favorite feline can be taught to lie down on cue?

According to pet trainers, it’s, paws down, one of the easiest behaviors a cat can learn. As a matter of fact, the more relaxed YOU are, the more relaxed your kitty will be, thereby affording you the optimum opportunity to positively reinforce this behavior.

Choose a location where your cat’s already comfortable curling up or sprawling out, whether it’s a couch, your bed or her own preferred perch. To make the spot even more appealing, cover it with an especially soft rug or fleecy blanket. Each training session should be brief – from one to five minutes – and to hold her attention and keep her engaged, always offer her ample rewards throughout.

Begin by marking and rewarding her instinctive tendency to lie down. As soon as she starts moving into a resting position, say “down” and mark it either with a word, such as “good”, or with the click of a training clicker, followed promptly by a reward, i.e. a high-value treat. Not only does the marker help your kitty learn what the desired behavior is, the reward teaches her to associate good things with that behavior.

If she seems confused by receiving a reward for a behavior that’s natural to her, don’t be discouraged. The key is repetition and consistency, building on her ability to learn the connection between the desired behavior and the resulting reward. By coupling the word “down” with the action of lying down, you’re teaching her to associate one with the other, followed, of course, by that all-important treat. The more you repeat this sequence, the sooner your kitty will learn that lying down in response to the word “down” is more than worth her while!

Up for a greater challenge? Use a “lure” as a way of teaching your kitty to lie down. Whether it’s a treat held in your closed hand, a tiny ball or a small crinkle toy, hold it in front of and slightly below her when she’s perched higher up on a chair or a cat tree, for example. As she moves to investigate, say “down” and mark it either with a word, such as “good” or with the click of a training clicker, and reward her with a treat whether she only bends slightly or actually lowers her chest to the surface of the cat tree or chair. Repeat the process until she’s fully resting in the desired down position.

Once she’s mastered this, switch from holding the “lure” where she can see it to holding it in your closed palm. This will teach her to follow your hand and not the “lure.” Continue rewarding her with a treat each time she successfully lies down, but remember to give her the treat with your other hand!

Your ultimate goal is to use only the hand signal preceded a second or two earlier by the word “down.” Remember the old axiom: practice makes perfect or, in this case, purr-fect? With ongoing practice – and paw-lenty of patience on your part -- your kitty should soon start anticipating the verbal cue “down” and move into the down position as soon as she hears it.

Whichever training strategy you choose, increase the time your cat remains in the down position by intermittently rewarding her with a treat. Then, at the end of each session, use a release word such as “free” as a signal to her that she is literally being freed from lying down.

by Nomi Berger

Pancreatitis -- inflammation of the pancreas – is relatively rare, but recognizing its signs early is essential to any cat’s health. These signs can include lethargy, increased thirst and urination, poor appetite or refusing to eat, dehydration and weight loss.

What then, is the pancreas? A small organ tucked between the stomach and intestines, it plays a vital role in producing the hormones, insulin and glucagon, which regulate blood sugar. It also produces digestive enzymes that help break down carbohydrates, protein and fat.

While the precise cause of most cases of feline pancreatitis isn’t known, it’s been associated with a cat’s having ingested toxins, having contracted a parasitic infection or having suffered a trauma such as a car accident. And it’s commonly divided into two sets of categories: acute or chronic, and severe or mild. Ironically, there’s a disparity between the number of cats with this condition and those who are actually diagnosed and treated. Why? Cats with mild cases may show few, if any, symptoms, while symptoms that don’t seem disease-specific may not warrant a visit to the vet. And because feline pancreatitis is difficult to definitively diagnose without a biopsy or ultrasound, many cat owners forgo these tests because of the cost.

There are, however, other less expensive diagnostic tools available. One is the serum feline pancreatic lipase immunoreactivity (fPLI) test, a non-invasive blood test that looks for markers of pancreatitis. Another, the serum feline trypsin-like immunoreactivity (fTLI) test, may not be as reliable as the fPLI test, but it can help identify exocrine pancreatic insufficiency, a disease that cats with chronic feline pancreatitis can also develop.

Posing the most serious risk to your own cat’s health is acute feline pancreatitis, and it usually requires hospitalization. Depending on its severity, chronic pancreatitis may call for periodic trips to the hospital but it can usually be managed at home. At the hospital, your cat will receive intravenous (IV) fluids to address her dehydration and, if warranted, detoxify her pancreas from any damaging inflammatory toxins. She may also be given antibiotics to minimize her risk of developing suppurative (infectious) pancreatitis, as well as painkillers and an anti-nausea medication to help combat any nausea she might have.

Once back from the hospital, it’s recommended that she be fed appetizing and easily digestible food as soon as possible provided she’s hungry and isn’t vomiting. Comforting her plays an important role in both making her feel safe and helping her to regain her appetite. If, however, she seems queasy and has difficulty eating, your vet may recommend an antiemetic to decrease her nausea and control any vomiting she might have. But if she’s vomiting frequently and isn’t at risk for fatty liver disease, your vet might suggest re-introducing food to her over a period of several days.

Cats unable to eat on their own may require a feeding tube. With a variety of options available, your vet will discuss the best one for your cat and teach you how to use it. Despite their intimidating appearances, feeding tubes are relatively easy to use, gentle on her, and essential in delivering the food, water and medications she needs during her recovery.

Whereas severe cases of feline pancreatitis require hospital stays and specialized care, many forms of this condition are mild and non-threatening. Learning to recognize the warning signs, then acting swiftly is the best way to ensure that your cat lives a long and happy life.

by Nomi Berger
 
Feline cerebellar hypoplasia, familiarly called wobbly cat syndrome, is a neurological disorder that occurs when the cerebellum, the part of the brain that controls coordination, doesn’t fully develop while kittens are still in their mothers’ wombs. Affecting a cat’s balance and fine motor skills, with symptoms ranging from mild to severe, it’s neither painful nor contagious, and symptoms shouldn’t grow worse over time. And although there’s no cure, many cats with this condition can still live long, enjoyable, albeit somewhat clumsy, lives.
 
According to veterinary experts, cerebellar hypoplasia most commonly occurs when a pregnant cat becomes infected with the feline panleukopenia virus, or feline distemper, and passes the infection along to her unborn kittens. Other less common causes include a kitten suffering a brain trauma while the cerebellum is still developing or being exposed to such inflammatory diseases as toxoplasmosis in the womb.
 
Symptoms of cerebellar hypoplasia typically exhibit themselves when kittens are between four and six weeks old – or when they’re able to stand and walk. These symptoms usually include head bobbing and head tremors, jerky or uncoordinated walking, swaying from side to side or walking as if drunk, an unsteady or clumsy, wide-legged stance, the inability to judge distance properly, splayed feet and/or falling over.
 
While there’s no standard test to diagnose this disorder, a vet or veterinary neurologist can always order an MRI scan to detect an underdeveloped cerebellum. But first, a vet will perform a thorough physical examination of the kitten that includes blood work, an electrolyte panel and a urinalysis in order to rule out other, possibly serious medical conditions.
 
How, then, should YOU care for a kitty with cerebellar hypoplasia?
 
1. Spay or neuter your cat since certain types of cerebellar hypoplasia are genetic and can be inherited by his or her offspring.
 
2. Make your cat an indoors-only cat and never let her outside alone. With her lack of coordination and balance, she’s more prone to injuries and won’t be able to protect herself against potential predators. To satisfy her natural curiosity and innate urge to explore, build a “catio” type of structure for her or teach her to walk on a leash.
 
3. Never de-claw your “wobbly” cat. Because she can’t typically jump, she’ll need her claws for balance in order to develop her climbing skills.
 
4. Make it easier for her to eat and drink by raising her food dish and water bowl (both should also be wider than regular ones) off the floor.
 
5. Provide her with a large, easily accessible litter box, perhaps with the addition of a specially designed ramp to make getting in and out of it even easier.
 
6. Where applicable, set up baby gates restricting all access to any stairs, preventing her from tumbling down them and harming herself.
 
7. For hardwood, tile or especially slick floors, put down non-slip mats or foam pads to create traction for her, and place them in front of her litter box, raised food dish and water bowl as well.
 
8. With jumping and running a challenge, encourage her to exercise by climbing – and climbing some more. Provide her with carpeted cat trees and other climbing spots, then cushion the areas around them with foam pads or small blankets to provide her with a soft landing should she fall.
 
9. Ask your vet or a trained expert to demonstrate various physical therapy exercises for you to practice together to help boost her self-confidence and build up the strength in her legs. Specially designed toys and particularly hardy long strings can also work wonders on her muscle tone and flexibility.
 
10. For more severe cases of cerebellar hypoplasia, some vets recommend hydrotherapy. Thanks to the buoyancy of the water, hydrotherapy can help build up her muscle strength, which, in turn, aids in mobility.
 

by Nomi Berger
 
Ascites (pronounced “a-site-eez”) is the accumulation of fluid in a cat’s abdominal cavity.
 
While a swollen stomach is one of the most obvious signs of ascites, any dramatic shift in a cat’s appetite, weight, body temperature, excremental function or sudden sensitivity during a tummy rub can also be warning signs. And if fluid continues to accumulate unchecked in the cat’s abdomen, it will eventually create so much pressure that she may have trouble breathing.
 
As frightening as it sounds, however, ascites may all too often be a symptom of one of these five major conditions:
 
1. Abdominal organ failure: Damage to or failure of the liver, kidneys and/or bladder can cause feline ascites. When operating properly, these organs’ vital functions include the conversion and metabolization of nutrients, filtration and waste removal. If the liver or kidneys are ruptured or fail, they release fluid into the abdomen that can quickly become septic. (possible reasons for both: ingesting chemicals or toxins, excessive heat, dietary imbalances, infection and metabolic dysfunction). A ruptured bladder can be caused by a urinary tract infection, blockages of the urinary tract or disease. When the urine has nowhere to go, the bladder can tear, releasing that urine into the abdomen, irritating the peritoneum, which, in turn, releases more fluid.
 
2. Feline infectious peritonitis (FIP): Caused by a virus that thrives in white blood cells, there are two forms of FIP, and the one that produces swelling of the peritoneum is “effusive” or wet. Once the mutated virus becomes active, it impairs a cat’s immune system, especially affecting the abdominal lining and kidneys. Not only is FIP difficult to diagnose, it’s almost impossible to cure.
 
3. Right-sided congestive heart failure: The right side pumps fresh, oxygenated blood through a cat’s body, and with congestive heart failure, the heart is incapable of doing this. (possible causes include a thickening of the heart muscle, heart worms and high blood pressure). While right-sided congestive heart failure can be genetic and affect younger cats, it more often affects older cats. As the cat’s heart strains to pump fresh blood through her body, fluids begin to accumulate everywhere, including the abdomen.
 
4. Cancer: A mass or tumor anywhere in a cat’s abdominal cavity can cause a blockage and disrupt the normal functioning of her organ(s). Fluids that would usually be filtered by the affected organ(s) may then either back up or leak out into her abdomen.
 
5. Physical trauma: If a cat experiences any sort of physical trauma, from accidents to abuse, these injuries can damage her internal organs. A torn or ruptured vital organ will lead to internal hemorrhaging which, in turn, leaks either blood or fluid into the abdomen, irritating the peritoneum and causing the abdomen to swell.
 
To accurately diagnose ascites in a cat, a vet will first perform a thorough physical examination of her abdomen to check for pain or discomfort, then order blood and urine tests, and perhaps even x-rays and an ultrasound. A key component of the investigation, however, is drawing and analyzing a sample of her abdominal fluid to help narrow the list of possible causes. The blood and urine tests will detect any chemical imbalances or infections while the x-rays and ultrasound should reveal which organ(s) or system is affected.
 
Once a diagnosis has been made, treatment depends on the underlying cause of her fluid buildup. Corrective surgery may be needed to repair a ruptured organ or remove a tumor, while medications such as cat antibiotics may be prescribed if she’s suffering from a bacterial infection. Sadly, however, the disorders that cause ascites tend to be ominous, making the prognosis either guarded or poor. And because it often occurs at the end stages of a disorder without a cure, the focus of any treatment plan must therefore change accordingly -- from resolution to management.

by Nomi Berger
 
Veterinarians usually divide epiphora, or excessive tearing, into two categories -- excessive tear production or inadequate tear drainage.
 
Similar to our own eyes, a cat’s eyes will tear after being exposed to irritants like chemicals and dust, smoke and smog. When the irritant in question either subsides or disappears, so should the cat’s increased tearing. If, however, the irritant persists, her excessive tearing may become chronic. (Infections, allergies and various types of eye injuries can also result in epiphora).
 
Another common cause of excessive tearing is entropion, a genetic condition in which part of a cat’s eyelid (usually the lower lid) is folded in towards her eyeball. This scratches and irritates her cornea rather than protecting it, and because the cornea is rich with pain receptors, it not only causes persistent tearing but extreme discomfort.
 
Applying artificial tears or a vet-prescribed ointment to the affected cornea may soothe the eye, forming a barrier between the eye and the offending lid, but it’s only a temporary solution. The permanent solution is surgical, where a thin V-wedge of skin below the affected eye is removed and the edges sutured together. This allows the eyelid to roll back outward and away from the cornea, giving the cat some much-needed relief from pain.
 
Corneal ulcers (scratches or abrasions to the corneal surface) are another cause of epiphora. Such ulcers are quite painful and result not only in redness but squinting and tearing, prompting a cat to constantly swipe or rub at the affected eye. If left untreated, a corneal ulcer will only grow worse, and if it’s deep enough, the eye could rupture and the cat could lose her sight in that eye.
 
The second category in the epiphora equation is inadequate tear drainage. Normally, tears drain from a cat’s eyes into her nose and throat through small ducts located at the inner corners of her eyes. Sometimes, though, her tears can’t drain sufficiently because the openings of those ducts are blocked.
 
One possible reason: eye inflammation as the result of a severe respiratory infection that caused scarring at the opening of one or both of her tear ducts. Another possible reason: one or both ducts that didn’t properly open during her early development. To correct this condition surgically, the cat will be anesthetized by a vet and a thin tube called a cannula will be inserted into one or both of her tear ducts to unblock them.
 
In short, if the underlying cause of epiphora can be identified and treated: problem solved. Brachycephalic cats (flat-faced breeds like Himalayans and Persians), on the other hand, with their large eyes, shallow eye sockets and abnormal tear ducts, are predisposed to epiphora. Since their tears simply slide down their faces, they’re likely to spend their “exotic” lives with watery eyes and wet faces.
 
And because tears contain a small amount of pigment, the fur of light-colored cats tends to show some reddish-brown staining beneath their eyes. Although this staining is harmless, many owners find it both undesirable and ugly. For these owners, there are a variety of products available that are specifically formulated to help minimize those stains. But, as with all things cat, concerned owners should always consult their vets first to ensure these products are FDA approved and safe.
 
 

by Nomi Berger
 
Hair loss in cats, otherwise known as alopecia, can be either partial or complete, according to animal dermatologists. And although it occurs for a variety of reasons, the most common one is skin allergies.
 
Cats may, in the course of their lives, get acquired alopecia, a symptom of a disease, not a disease itself, and veterinarians are the ones tasked with diagnosing its source. Happily, most affected cats’ hair does grow back, given time and the appropriate treatment.
 
Consider, then, the six most common conditions behind cat alopecia.
 
1. Allergies: Some cats are hypersensitive to the antigens in flea saliva, and if they’re bitten by a flea, they’ll become so desperately itchy that they’ll begin over grooming as a way of dealing with the itchiness. It isn’t as if their hair is simply falling out, these kitties are actually licking it so much that they’re not only pulling it out, they’re pulling it out far faster than it can be replaced.
 
Mange, scabies and lice can also make a cat’s skin itch, leading to that same vicious cycle of over grooming and hair loss. Other culprits include mites, food allergies and environmental allergies – all of which can cause that same unbearable itching, over grooming and hair loss.
 
Occasionally, cats will engage in compulsive over grooming because they’re suffering from neuropathic pain due to nerve damage in their skin. In rare cases, they may even over groom and lose hair for psychological rather than physical reasons, such as severe anxiety following a particularly stressful event.
 
2. Pain: Sometimes a cat will obsessively lick an area of her body not because it itches but because the tissue beneath her skin hurts. A cat suffering from arthritis, for example, may constantly lick at a specific, aching joint because it’s painful and licking helps relieve some of the discomfort. The downside of this: she’s also licking away her hair.
 
3. Infections: Less common than allergies, cats with various staph infections or fungal infections such as ringworm may lose a great deal of hair in those affected areas.
 
4. Endocrine disorders: If a cat’s losing hair, she may be suffering from hyperthyroidism (an overactive thyroid condition, it causes weight loss as well as many other symptoms). She may have a hormonal imbalance and an increased level of steroids in her body, causing hair follicles to die and preventing new hair from growing back. Cushing’s disease is one example of a metabolic disorder that produces too much cortisol (the body’s main stress hormone), potentially causing her alopecia.
 
5. Side effects from medication: Among the various medications prescribed for a number of conditions, transdermal prednisone, for example, which is often used to treat Addison’s disease, causes both hair loss and the curling of a cat’s outer ear. Once the medication is stopped, these unwanted side effects should also stop.
 
6. Cancer: Thankfully, cancer is rarely the reason for a cat losing hair. But neoplasia (these are abnormal growths caused by the uncontrolled division of cells) may cause it. Another serious condition is paraneoplastic alopecia, which is hair loss associated with moist skin and extreme itchiness.
 
Concerned about YOUR kitty’s hair loss? Simply bring her to the vet for a thorough examination.

by Nomi Berger
 
Have you ever observed that your kitty’s allergy symptoms seem to worsen the more time you spend together? Have you ever considered the possibility that she may be allergic to you?
 
While extremely rare, scientists say that cats can indeed be allergic to people, but that our frequent bathing and showering assists in reducing our own dander and allergens. It’s far more likely, then, that your cat’s not allergic to YOU but to the products you either use on your skin or to clean your home.
 
Among the telltale signs of her sensitivity to these products are: itchiness and reddened skin, fur loss and open sores, rodent ulcers and swollen or inflamed lips. She may also develop chronic sneezing.
 
Consider the following culprits that may cause an irritation of your cat’s respiratory system: perfumes, body sprays with high-scent fragrances and heavily perfumed body washes; scented laundry detergents and fabric softeners; air freshener plug-ins, scented waxes, essential oils and incense, and the smoke and nicotine from cigarettes.
 
To minimize many of these potential irritants, invest in a vacuum with a HEPA filter that traps allergens such as dust mites, pollen, mold, tobacco particles, your dander and skin cells rather than sending them back into the air. Eliminate, wherever possible, everything that’s heavily perfumed or even moderately scented -- from your personal products to your laundry products. And to keep your air not only fresh but clean, use several small activated charcoal pillows instead of scented plug-ins.
 
If, however, you suspect that your cat IS allergic to you, discuss it with your vet who will, in all likelihood, refer you to a dermatologist. Just as with people, the dermatologist will run a series of tests on your cat by pricking her skin with a small amount of various suspected allergens to see how she responds. And should she be one of those very rare kitties who react to your dander or hair, it doesn’t mean that you have to give her up.
 
Again, as with people, there are several forms of treatment available, depending on her symptoms and the severity of those symptoms. And although there’s no cure for allergies at the moment, allergy injections, antihistamines or even cortisone can be used to both provide her with the relief she needs and the reassurance you need to live happily ever after.

by Nomi Berger
 
A cat diagnosed with Feline Leukemia (FeLV) is still an ADOPTABLE cat.
 
What, then, is FeLV?
 
FeLV is a virus that weakens a cat’s immune system, predisposing it to certain infections, severe anemia, and potentially leading to cancer. Most at risk are kittens born to FeLV positive mothers, cats under the age of one, cats living with an infected cat, and cats bitten by an infected cat if they’re allowed outside.
 
Although it is NOT transmittable to humans, dogs or other non-feline pets, before adopting a FeLV positive cat, ensure that you and your vet are “on the same page”. Whereas some vets warn against it, others are fully sympathetic and supportive of the idea. And these vets will be your best allies.
 
Of utmost importance, when adopting a FeLV positive cat, is to always keep that cat indoors -- whether as your only cat or with other FeLV positive cats. Immediate spaying will prevent a female from giving birth to infected kittens. Some cats can even fight off the virus and become immune to it. Others can be healthy carriers that never get sick themselves but can still infect others.   
 
While the disease CAN be managed, even going into remission, flare-ups are always a possibility. Most FeLV positive cats are likely to live a shorter life than other cats, and 85% of persistently infected felines will die within three years of diagnosis.
 
However, regular vet check-ups and good preventive health care can keep your cat feeling well for some time and protect it from secondary infections. Twice-yearly physical exams, lab tests and parasite control can both prevent complications and identify problems quickly. While there may be no cure for the virus itself, secondary infections can be treated promptly if and when they occur.
 
To help your FeLV positive cat live as healthily and normally as possible:
 
Feed your cat a balanced diet (no raw meat, eggs or non-pasteurized dairy products that can harbor bacteria and parasites and lead to infection), using only the highest quality food to provide your cat with all required and essential nutrients. Some vets also recommend adding daily doses of vitamins and antioxidants.
 
Remove all uneaten wet food within a half-hour to prevent the potential growth of harmful bacteria.
 
Ensure that your cat has easy access to a continuous supply of FRESH water.
 
Keep your cat’s purr-sonal “belongings” scrupulously clean, including food and water bowls, litter boxes and cat beds, blankets, towels and toys.
 
Because your cat may require more warmth than other cats, ensure that a comfy cozy place, equipped with a cat bed and blankets, is always nearby.
 
Maintain as stress free an environment as you can. Be alert to whatever frightens or agitates your cat, and if possible, eliminate it. Ask your family members and any visitors to speak in low voices when inside your home.
 
Check regularly for parasites, including fleas, ticks, ear mites and worms. Treat the offender promptly, but if there’s more than one culprit, treat each separately to avoid overtaxing your cat’s already delicate system.
 
Ask your vet for a list of physical and emotional changes vis-a-vis progression of the disease, and contact him/her immediately if you notice any of these changes in your cat.
 
And so, despite the fact that a FeLV positive cat may not use up all of its fabled nine lives, living a loved, pampered and protected one may be just what the vet ordered.