by Nomi Berger
 
Are you fascinated by the small, heart-shaped “button” in the middle of your favorite feline’s face? Commonly called a nose, it is, in fact, one of a cat’s most uncommonly and intriguing features.
 
Consider the following:
 
1. Cats have up to 200 million receptors in their noses. Their highly developed sense of smell helps them track prey such as mice, distinguish between toxic food and edible food, discover the places you’ve been, and find their way home should they wander off and get lost.
 
2. The color of a cat’s nose matches the color of their fur. Cats with pink noses will have white fur; cats with orange noses, like tabbies, will have orange fur; cats with gray noses will have gray fur; cats with black noses will have black fur and black and white fur (tuxedos), and cats with multicolored noses, like calicos, will have multicolored fur.
 
3. Every cat’s noseprint is unique in the same way that every person’s fingerprints are unique. Ridges and bumps on cats’ noses make up their noseprint while the naked skin around their nostrils is known as “nose leather.” Some proud cat owners even go so far as to have their kitty’s noseprint inked!
 
4. Cats’ noses assist in stimulating their appetite (they have fewer taste receptors than either people or dogs). Therefore, when they’re able to smell certain flavors of food -- the more aromatic the better -- it makes them realize they are, in fact, hungry. This is one of the main reasons for keeping cats on the same diet. Simply recognizing the food’s scent will stimulate their appetite. If, for any reason, you must change your own cat’s food, ensure that you do so gradually.
 
5. Cats’ sensitive noses excel at detecting other cats’ scents, particularly where outdoor cats are concerned. Many outdoor cats mark their “territory” by using their own feces or urine so that if another cat enters it, or worse, urinates there, literally invading their space, one sniff and they know! A male cat’s sense of smell will also alert him to any nearby females in heat. If he’s ready to mate, he releases pheromones that only she can detect informing her of his intentions.
 
6. Cats use their noses as a way of greeting other cats. When two cats meet for the first time, they will approach each other slowly, if not warily, then proceed to sniff one another’s noses, sides and rear ends before, in all likelihood, going their separate ways. 
 
7. Since cat noses are so sensitive, very strong odors can not only be distasteful to them but uncomfortable as well. Example: scented cat litter. While pleasant to us, it could be overwhelming for cats. They also dislike the smell of citrus, eucalyptus, lavender, mint and tea tree oil.
 
8. Cats are notorious for licking their noses. And while countless theories abound as to the reason behind this behavior, the most popular ones include the following: to relieve anxiety or stress, to comfort themselves, to “re-set” their sense of smell and, purr-haps the most practical of all, to simply keep their noses clean.

by Nomi Berger
 
Uveitis is an inflammation of the uvea of a cat’s eye that includes the iris, the ciliary body and the choroid. What, purr-cisely, are the uvea’s three vital components?
 
The iris is the colored portion of the eye directly surrounding the pupil. It controls the size of the pupil, which, in turn, determines how much light reaches the retina (the lining of the eye that “translates” and sends these signals to the brain).
 
The ciliary body is the middle layer of the eye that connects the iris and the choroid. Its muscles help the eye focus by changing the size of the pupil and the shape of the lens. The ciliary body produces fluid known as aqueous humor, which provides both oxygen and nutrients to the lens and cornea (the clear, outermost cover of the eye).
 
The choroid is the vascular layer, i.e. full of vessels, of the eye that contains melanin cells (a natural skin pigment). These cells absorb light, limit reflection and safeguard the blood vessels from receiving too much light. They also supply the outer retina with both oxygen and blood.
 
Like many other conditions negatively impacting kitties, uveitis may go unnoticed by their owners because cats excel at masking their illnesses and may simply hide more when they’re not feeling “up to scratch,” are frightened or are truly hurting. And since uveitis is both painful and can, potentially, cause blindness, your own cat’s sudden disappearance from view should serve as a warning that something’s amiss.
 
Examine your cat closely, looking for the following signs, either in one eye or both. The most obvious sign is “red eye.” She may also squint, seem sensitive to light and have a watery eye. The color of her iris may be altered or cloudy. The size of her pupil may be affected along with her vision although you may find this more difficult to detect. If glaucoma (a buildup of pressure inside the eye that damages the optic nerve) is also present, her eye may be enlarged or appear to bulge.
 
There are two general categories of feline uveitis: ocular (having to do with the eye) and systemic. Ocular uveitis includes tears on the surface of the eye or within the cornea, known as corneal ulcers, trauma to the eye, cataracts (a clouding of the eye lens) and tumors. Systemic uveitis can be either non-infectious or infectious. Non-infectious causes range from high blood pressure to eating fatty foods. Infectious causes are more extensive and include feline infectious peritonitis (a virus known as FIP), feline immunodeficiency (a virus known as FIV), blastomycosis (fungal), candidiasis (fungal), coccidioidomycosis (fungal), cryptococcosis (fungal), histoplasmosis (fungal), cuterebra larval migration (parasitic), and toxoplasmosis (parasitic).
 
Should you notice any changes in your cat’s eye(s), bring her to the vet immediately. Your vet will ask if she’s experienced any other physical symptoms, such as decreased appetite, vomiting, diarrhea and/or weight loss, and ask, as well, about your home environment and her exposure to any other animals.
 
Along with a thorough physical examination, your vet will perform an ophthalmic exam and likely recommend specific tests to evaluate the cornea’s surface for any abrasions and to measure her eye pressure and tear production. Basic blood work may also be needed as well as tests to rule out such infections as feline leukemia (FeLV), FIV and toxoplasmosis.
 
Treatment of uveitis includes therapy targeted at the specific cause or causes, if they’re identified, and generalized therapy. For incurable infectious such as FIV, treatment is aimed at reducing your cat’s symptoms and supporting her through any flare-ups she might have. Your vet may prescribe topical NSAIDS and systemic medications like Atropine Prednisolone acetate to alleviate her pain and decrease the inflammation in her eye. Where tumors are involved, surgery is often the only option.
 
As with all eye conditions, follow-up visits with your vet are essential to gauge the effectiveness of your cat’s treatment and to monitor the progres of her healing. It’s also vital that you monitor her at home to ensure her symptoms don’t return since uveitis can result in blindness or the loss of the affected eye if her treatment isn’t working.

by Nomi Berger
 
Feline infectious peritonitis (FIP) is caused by a coronavirus unique to cats and isn’t contagious to people, dogs or other animals. Spread, in most instances, through contact with feces, this virus typically lives inside a cat’s intestinal tract.
 
The majority of cats are exposed early in their lives to the organism causing FIP -- sometimes from their mothers – and while almost all of them carry the organism, it’s believed less than 5% actually go on to develop FIP. Most cats who develop FIP are between three months and two years of age, although cats of any age can develop it. Not only does the disease require a specific interaction between a cat’s immune system and a mutated form of the organism, but it’s also, sadly, the main reason there’s no reliable diagnostic test for the disease. In fact, FIP is one of the least understood of all cat diseases.
 
Typically diagnosed through a process of elimination, cats suffering from FIP may present with a variety of symptoms from several other conditions such as abdominal tumors, toxoplasmosis or an infection with mycobacterium. To complicate matters further, a cat’s symptoms will also depend on which organ or organs are affected, since FIP can negatively impact the liver, kidneys and pancreas, not to mention other organ systems, ranging from the eyes to the abdomen to the central nervous system.
 
Most infected cats begin exhibiting signs of the illness by eating poorly, running a fever and/or behaving lethargically. There are two forms of FIP: Wet (or effusive): this causes bloating and swelling in the abdomen (ascites) and may also affect the heart and lungs. Cats with this form of the disease may pant and seem sleepy and droopy. Dry (or non-effusive): this usually affects the eyes (many cats will go blind) and causes such neurological symptoms as problems with balance and seizures. Cats with no immune response develop wet FIP, those with a partial immune response develop dry FIP, and some actually show symptoms of both forms of the disease.
 
Respiratory transmission, while possible, is less common. But because the traditional route of infection is contact with infected feces from litter boxes, cats living in a multi-cat household and who may share litter boxes are the ones most at risk. And yet, developing the disease requires a specific interaction between the virus and their immune systems. It’s not uncommon, then, to see one cat die of FIP and the others remain healthy.
 
Although vets can easily diagnose “wet” FIP by drawing a sample of fluid from the affected cat’s abdomen for analysis, other cats may require additional testing to rule out other possible diseases, leaving FIP as the likeliest culprit. And because FIP is almost always fatal and has no specific cure, vets can, at this point, only offer them supportive care. Anti-inflammatory drugs such as corticosteroids (e.g., prednisolone) along with specific drugs that suppress the immune system (e.g., cyclophosphamide) may both extend their lives and improve their quality of life.
 
Several experimental drugs, currently being investigated for use in the battle against FIP and not yet approved by the FDA, include one known as GS441524 or simply GS441. Expensive, stressful for owners and cats, and not always successful, it requires stringent monitoring and dosing for a period of 84 days, and is available in both injectable and pill form. (The costs and dosages vary depending on the weight of the infected cat). The goal is for the cat to remain symptom-free upon completing the treatment for an observation period of another 84 days.
 
While a vaccine for feline coronavirus exists, it has its limitations. First, it’s only approved for kittens older than 16 weeks of age. And second, vaccinating cats in multi-cat households may be ineffectual since feline coronavirus is so common that most of them will be infected by the time they’re old enough to receive it. For these reasons, the American Association of Feline Practitioners does NOT recommend routine usage of the FIP vaccine.

by Nomi Berger
 
Frustrated by your favorite feline peeing outside the litter box? Wondering how to prevent it?
 
Because most cats urinate inappropriately for one of two reasons, medical or behavioral, the first step is a visit to your vet. The vet will perform a thorough physical examination of your cat and collect a urine sample to either rule in or rule out the following medical conditions:
 
Bladder stones: These stones can not only irritate the bladder but block it, and if your vet suspects they’re the cause, x-rays are essential in determining their size and number. While smaller stones may dissolve on a special diet, larger ones may need to be removed surgically. 
 
Idiopathic cystitis: Cystits is an inflammation of the bladder, idiopathic means the cause is unknown, and cats with this condition often have blood in their urine. A urine sample is of utmost importance since the blood is often only detectable microscopically. If your vet finds blood in your cat’s urine with no sign of crystals, stones or bacteria, the likely diagnosis is idiopathic cystitis, and it’s usually treated through dietary changes and environmental enrichment, with pain and anti-anxiety medications often prescribed as well.
 
Metabolic disease: Among the metabolic diseases that may increase your cat’s urination are chronic kidney disease, liver disease, diabetes, and thyroid problems. If your cat has been drinking water more and/or you’ve been cleaning her litter box more often, mention this to your vet who may then run some blood work to see if one of the aforementioned issues is the culprit.
 
Urinary tract infections: An inflammatory response in the urinary tract caused by bacteria, UTI’s are treated with antibiotics. Once the antibiotics are finished, vets usually recommend follow-up testing to make certain the infection is gone. When one or more urinary issues are chronic, however, this is referred to as feline lower urinary tract disease or FLUTD. If your cat is diagnosed with FLUTD, your vet may recommend a special urinary diet and/or supplements to support the health of her urinary tract.
 
Urinary problems often lead to urinary obstructions, especially in male cats. If yours is “posturing” to urinate and little or no urine is being eliminated, he may have a blockage or partial obstruction. Because either condition can swiftly become life threatening, bring him to your vet immediately.
 
If, on the other hand, there are no medical reasons for your cat’s inappropriate urination, the cause is, most likely, behavioral. The usual suspects: a dirty or uncomfortable litter box, the location of the litter box or unappealing litter; stress due to the presence of another animal or a new person in your household, and the lingering scent of their own urine long after that soiled area has been cleaned up.
 
Consider, then, these solutions:
- Ensure your cat’s litter box is both comfortable and clean – the larger the better, and if possible, leave it uncovered.
- Place the litter box in a quiet yet accessible area of your home – far from where your cat eats and drinks – and preferably out of sight.
- If yours is a multi-story house, place a litter box on each floor.
- Use a shallow box or place a ramp at the entrance of the litter box to make it easier for older cats to access.
- Use an unscented, scoopable litter that most cats seem to prefer.
- Many vets recommend having two boxes in a single-cat household. Why? Because some cats feel best using one for urine and the other for stool.
- Thoroughly clean any areas where your cat has urinated with an enzymatic cleaner to eliminate all traces of the odor and, hopefully, discourage her from continuing to pee there.
- Last, but certainly not least, make your cat’s environment an enriched and happy one. Add both vertical and horizontal stimulants – from cat trees and wall ledges of varying heights to cat tunnels and puzzle games. Provide her with numerous toys to keep her constructively occupied and set aside some time each day to play, play, play with her.
 
If, however, these environmental changes prove ineffective, your vet may prescribe a medication to reduce her anxiety and stress.

by Nomi Berger
 
Does the sound of hissing and the sight of swatting occur all too frequently in YOUR home? If so, you’re not alone. More multi-cat households than you can shake a paw at experience this phenomenon as well. The term for such unwelcome behavior is resource guarding, and, not surprisingly, much of it is grounded in kitty cat insecurity.
 
Cats who once spent an extended period of time either on the streets or in shelters before being rescued -- particularly those deprived of food in the past -- are most likely to resource guard in their adoptive homes. Why? Because, in spite of all of the food available to them, they still perceive that there’s little or none.
 
Sometimes a resident cat will resource guard when a new cat enters her established household. Or vice-versa. A new cat may exhibit the same tendency if she’s either been abandoned or deprived of adequate food and water in the past. Others may resource guard when they feel stressed by such changes in their homes as new people entering the picture (roommates or spouses) or by familiar people exiting the picture (children leaving for college or divorces).
 
What then, is included in the list of “items” stressed kitties guard so fiercely? Food and water bowls, toys, games and cat tunnels, litter boxes, cat scratchers and scratching posts, cat trees and napping spots, and purr-ticularly people. And the ways they display their displeasure include hissing to warn the other cat(s) to stay away, swatting at the other cat(s) and sometimes their guardians to stay away, literally blocking the other cat or cats’ access to anything they consider theirs, scratching various items as a way of “claiming” them, and spraying or urinating on some items and even people.
 
Should you notice your kitty guarding her resources from a new feline addition to “her” family, stop it early to both prevent her behavior from escalating and to ensure there’s harmony between all parties in your household. Consider, then, these suggestions. Put down a food bowl for each cat before mealtimes. Remove the lids from all of the litter boxes to prevent one cat from trapping the other inside them. Set up several litter box areas to give the bullied cat other options if your cat is guarding one area. Spend equal quality one-on-one time with each cat and engage them in stimulating playtime activities together. Supply them with enough toys, games and scratching posts, cat trees, cubbyholes and cat beds so that each cat can lay claim to her own. Experiment with several natural flower essences known to reduce stress and encourage calm. Shower your cats with effusive praise and reward them with high value treats whenever they’re together without either bullying or guarding. And, as a last resort, discuss the matter with your vet to see if your cats’ anxieties can be reduced by medication.

by Nomi Berger
 
As creatures of habit who crave their creature comforts, cats don’t always make the best road trip companions. But by mapping out kitty’s trip together with your own, you can curtail her bad “backseat driver” behavior, and turn a potentially negative experience into a purr-fectly paws-itive one.
 
Consider the following suggestions to smooth the way for everyone – human and feline:
 
Remain calm. Because cats sense our stress, don’t raise your voice or display any overt signs of your own pre-trip tension.
 
Should your trip be longer than a day, make reservations ahead of time solely at pet-friendly motels or hotels.
 
Carry your most up-to-date vet paperwork, showing, at the very least, that your cat is current on her rabies shots.
 
Never medicate an overly anxious cat without first consulting your vet. Many OTC calming agents are dangerous for cats, and if you do use a medication prescribed by your vet, always try it out at home first to test for any reactions and/or side effects.
 
If your cat tends to get car sick, avoid feeding her between two and three hours prior to your departure.
 
Train your cat to wear a harness so that she can remain safely harnessed inside the car. Her harness should bear a nametag with all pertinent ID (microchipping is, of course, the best ID), and a leash should be clipped to it whenever you remove kitty from her carrier or from the car itself.
 
Have your cat travel comfortably by keeping her in a large carrier or dog crate, allowing her room enough to stretch and move around during the drive. Set the crate or carrier in a well-ventilated part of the car, out of excessive drafts and away from direct sunlight.
 
Drape a sheet over the crate or carrier, leaving one side open, to help her feel more snug, safe and secure.
 
Place a familiar blanket, several cushions, or a worn T-shirt with your scent on it inside the crate or carrier. Rotate various cat toys along the way (this works particularly well with a young kitten) to keep her stimulated and occupied.
 
Line the bottom with pee pads as a precaution and put a small, disposable litter pan (aluminum baking pans work well) inside the carrier or crate, and ensure you have a generous supply of both to last the entire trip. Stock up on sanitized wipes and strong plastic bags to handle any and all “litter box” accidents.
 
If your cat has an appetite, feed her the same food that she eats at home and keep her water bowl only partly filled to avoid spilling.
 
Never let your cat out of the car at “rest stops” unless she’s well trained to walk on a harness and leash. And above all, never leave kitty unattended -- on either hot or cold days.
 
As they say, forewarned is forearmed. Hopefully then, armed with these few tips, you and your cat can share a road trip to remember – fondly.
 

by Nomi Berger
 
Feline vertigo or feline vestibular disease refers to a sudden, non-progressive disturbance of balance. Capable of affecting cats of all ages, those afflicted with it will become disoriented and nauseous, develop a head tilt (they often lean or fall in the direction of their head tilt), have irregular, jerking eye movements called nystagmus, and even vomit.
 
What, then, is the vestibular system? It’s the system responsible for maintaining a cat’s normal balance with central components located in the brain and peripheral components located in the inner and middle ear.
 
The possible causes of feline vertigo include middle or inner ear infections, trauma or injury, drugs toxic to the ear, hypothyroidism and tumors, particularly in older cats. When no specific cause for a cat’s condition can be determined, it’s referred to as feline idiopathic vestibular disease. Why? Because the sudden onset of the above-mentioned signs show a subsequent and rapid improvement with little, if any, medical intervention.
 
There are no specific tests for feline vestibular disease itself. Most cases are diagnosed based on your particular cat’s medical history, clinical signs and a thorough physical examination by your vet as well as on the results of some or all of the following: blood tests, urine tests (these check for urinary tract infections and kidney function), ear cultures and cytology (examination of any discharge or fluids found in the ear canal), spinal fluid analysis, testing for kidney, liver and pancreatic function, thyroid testing to determine hormone production, and electrolyte tests to check for dehydration or an electrolyte imbalance.
 
In some cases, testing may also include blood pressure measurements and head x-rays to assess the appearance of the middle and inner ears while, occasionally, a CT scan or MRI will be performed to look for tumors or other abnormalities.
 
Any subsequent course of action will ultimately depend on your cat’s symptoms and on whether a cause for her condition has been established. If a cause has indeed been determined, then the underlying condition will be treated rather than the vestibular disease itself.
 
In the case of middle or inner ear infections, however, your vet may prescribe antibiotics or anti-fungal medications as well as a medication to reduce her motion sickness, nausea and vomiting. Since idiopathic vestibular disease is a short-term, self-resolving condition, its symptoms are typically worse in the first 24 to 48 hours and improve steadily over the next two to three weeks
 
But, as a conscientious pet parent, you can help your kitty feel better while her symptoms are at their worst by following these suggestions:
Manage your own stress because cats are extremely sensitive to our emotions.
Keep her confined in a quiet, safe space far from any stairs.
Support her by surrounding her with a thick, rolled up blanket.
Ensure that her food and water bowls and litter box are at ground level and nearby.
Make certain that she remains hydrated and fed if she can’t do so herself.
If she’s unable to stand at all, assist her in changing positions periodically to prevent any sores from developing on her body.
Avoid the temptation to carry her since she has to walk in order to re-train her “navigational” system.
 
Whereas the majority of cats make a complete recovery, some severely affected ones may be left with a head tilt. The good news is that in most cases of feline idiopathic vestibular disease, the condition will never reappear.

by Nomi Berger
 
While not the norm for most healthy cats, in special circumstances, your vet may recommend the use of an elevated cat bowl for YOUR kitty.
 
Which felines, you may wonder, fit into this purr-ticular category?
 
Cats with megaesophagus: A medical condition in which the esophagus doesn’t function properly, inappropriate muscle contractions in your cat’s esophagus affects her ability to move food smoothly and efficiently from her mouth to her stomach. This will cause her to regurgitate whatever undigested food remains shortly after she’s eaten. An elevated cat bowl will allow gravity to move the food she’s eating downward from her mouth and directly into her stomach. Now her esophagus no longer has to move that same food upward towards her stomach as it must when she’s hunched over her food bowl on the floor.
 
Cats with other eating and/or swallowing problems: If your kitty, for example, is suffering from a neurological disorder, severe dental disease or an acute upper respiratory infection that makes swallowing difficult, the use of an elevated food bowl will, again, overcome gravity, making it easier for her to take food into her mouth and then swallow it properly.
 
Cats with mobility issues: If your cat – particularly a senior cat -- suffers from severe neck, back or joint pain in her front and/or hind legs, for example, bending down to eat from a bowl on the floor may be as cumbersome as it is challenging. Experiment, through a process of trial and error, with bowls of different heights to determine which one is most comfortable and most likely to ease at least some of her extreme discomfort.
 
Whatever your kitty’s issue, take into consideration both the height of the bowl and the diameter of the bowl (choose either a rounded or a slanted interior). Pay special attention to the material of the bowl. Generally, stainless steel, ceramic or glass bowls are best because they’re easier to sanitize – which is essential. Avoid plastic bowls since they’re prone to developing tiny surface scratches with use and over time, making them next to impossible to thoroughly disinfect.
 
Elevated bowls are available as individual bowls or as a combined stand that holds both a food bowl and a water bowl. Once again, experimentation is key. While some cats do well using a stand with paired food and water bowls, others, mainly messy eaters, don’t -- and shouldn’t use them. Why? A pair of bowls, side by side, may lead to the water in their water bowl being contaminated with food particles from their food bowl far more often.
 
For safety’s sake, clean your cat’s food and water bowls once a day -- or after each meal if you’re feeding her wet canned food – to reduce the risk of bacteria contaminating them and thereby potentially posing a health risk to you both. While they can simply be hand-washed in hot, soapy water, most bowls are dishwasher-safe and can, instead, be washed even more thoroughly and safely, in your dishwasher.
 

by Nomi Berger
 
Have you ever wondered why cats’ coats in general and yours in purr-ticular change color?
 
If so, consider some of the paws-ible reasons for this feline phenomenon.
 
1) Changes in temperature: Some cats, like Oriental Himalayans and Siamese, known as pointed breeds, are genetically predisposed to changes in their fur color depending on the temperature of their skin. Their skin is naturally cooler at their bodies’ extremities – faces, paws and tails – which partly accounts for their white or light cream bodies and darker-hued faces, paws and tails. The temperature of the environment in which any cat lives can also play a role in her coloring. Owners may notice that their cats are darker during the cold months of winter and lighter during the warm months of spring and summer.
 
2) The sun’s rays: If your cat -- as most do -- LOVES the sun, her fur will change color and fade because of her prolonged exposure to its rays. Most noticeable in black cats whose coats lighten and turn “rusty,” it results from the sun’s UV rays destroying the dark pigment, melanin, in their bodies that protects their delicate skin from being burned. Thankfully, however, cats are constantly replacing melanin, meaning their fur will eventually return to its normal shade, but they’ll have to go through an entire shedding cycle before this happens. Nor does this type of fading apply only to outdoor cats. The coats of indoor cats who spend too much time stretched out on sunny window perchs will also fade. 
 
3) Lack of important nutrients: Dark-haired cats may appear lighter or redder than usual due to an insufficient amount of the amino acid tyrosine in their diet. Considered a non-essential amino acid since it’s created within their own bodies, cats require twice as much tyrosine as their bodies can produce (the average cat needs over 5g of tyrosine daily). Tyrosine is needed to make melanin, and if cats don’t have enough of it in their diet, their fur can begin turning a reddish hue. Similarly, a diet high in such elements as copper or zinc may also cause their coats to change color.
 
4) The natural aging process: If your cat is 10 years or older, her body will automatically begin producing less melanin. But unless her coat is pure black as opposed to either a paler coat or one with stripes, you may not notice the change until her coat starts turning from its normal color to a browner and then, finally, to a grayer tone. Gray hairs customarily appear first around a cat’s muzzle and fan out from there. 
 
5) Stress and physical pain: While still controversial, some experts believe that stress or pain may be responsible for turning a cat’s fur gray. Such premature graying is linked to heightened levels of noradrenaline, a hormone constantly released by a cat’s body in small doses. Noradrenaline is connected to the nervous system, and during times of intense stress or pain, it will, literally and figuratively, flood her body.
 
If, on the other hand, your cat’s fur has changed color seemingly overnight, there could be a medical reason for it, and you should arrange to have her seen by your vet.

by Nomi Berger
 
Whatever their purr-ferred position, cats typically sleep with their paws over their faces.
 
While obviously comfortable and undeniably cute, why DO our feline friends cover their faces when they sleep? Here are some of the most plausible explanations for this behavior.
 
One reason is warmth. When they’re asleep, they lose more of their customary body heat due to the fact that they’re lying still. And since most of that heat comes from their paws, ears and the tips of their noses, covering their faces with their paws or curling themselves into a ball helps keep that essential heat inside while they sleep. They also instinctively curl themselves up more tightly in winter because the cold can be dangerous for them. Should their body temperature drop below a certain level, they can get hypothermia, which, in worst case scenarios, can lead to coma and even death.
 
A second reason is it blocks out the light. Since cats are crepuscular -- most active during the twilight hours – by nature, they spend most of their days sleeping. This means they must sleep when it’s light outside, often in direct sunlight thanks to its soothing warmth, and they use their paws to cover their eyes the way we humans use sleep masks.
 
A third reason is it blocks out noise. For most cats, even the slightest noise can wake them from their slumber. An instinct born as a survival mechanism for cats living in the wild, they would snap awake at the slightest noise, and if that noise meant danger, they could swiftly flee. How likely your own cat is to be wakened by a loud noise depends on how deeply she sleeps and how well her ears are covered.
 
A fourth reason is a sense of security. While cats, primarily outdoors and feral cats, are predators, hunting birds, mice and other small rodents, cats in the wild are the prey of many larger animals. Most vulnerable when asleep, their faces are vulnerable too, and should their faces be attacked, these cats’ chances of survival would be slim. And although your inside cat isn’t in danger of being attacked by a predator when she’s asleep, this behavior is, once again, instinctual.
 
A fifth reason is exhaustion. Cats don’t only use their paws to cover their faces when they sleep, they also use their paws to self-groom. Obsessively devoting nearly one third of the day to grooming themselves – a tiring feat in and of itself – if they fall asleep in the middle of washing their faces, their paws will land directly over their eyes. The very act of moving their paws down in order to sleep may, quite simply, be too much of an effort for them.
 
Last, but not least, your cat may be covering her face while she’s sleeping as a hint to the rest of her loving household that she needs her space and purr-fers to be left alone. Think of it as an unwritten “Do Not Disturb” sign and respect your favorite feline’s wishes. Rest assured: she’ll amply reward your thoughtfulness when she wakes up.