by Nomi Berger
 
A cautionary tail: Never put your cat’s carrier on the front seat of your vehicle where it can be crushed and your pet killed by deploying air bags in the case of abrupt braking or an actual collision.
 
That said, have you ever wondered why, despite there being more cats than dogs in American households, they visit the vet far less frequently than their canine counterparts.
 
Studies have shown that our prescient pusses can SENSE what’s coming and that they both dread and detest the entire process of GETTING to the vet. Some kitties become so stressed that they vomit or defecate out of fear while others morph into hissing, spitting balls of fury.
 
Since annual (twice a year for seniors) wellness exams are essential for monitoring and maintaining your cherished companion’s health, consider the following tips for making the experience of visiting the vet as fear free for your feline as paws-ible.
 
1. Bring out your kitty’s carrier several days before your scheduled vet appointment so that she can get used to the sight of it. Leave the door open, thereby allowing her to enter it, explore it and exit it at her leisure.
 
2. Place some of her favorite treats and/or some catnip inside the carrier to encourage her to associate the carrier with a pleasant and positive experience.
 
3. Make the carrier appear less threatening and more inviting by lining it with one of her blankets topped by several of her favorite toys.
 
4. Spray the interior of the carrier with a synthetic feline pheromone product reputed to decrease and even eliminate stress 30 minutes before using it, then gently put your kitty inside and softly close the door.
 
5. Place the carrier in a secure place on the back seat of your car. This way, should you have to stop suddenly, your cat will remain safe. To be doubly certain, choose a carrier that’s easily and securely fastened in place with a seatbelt.
 
6. Practice making mock trips to the vet by driving around the block. Once ... twice three times ... increasing your driving time as long as kitty seems comfortable, and stopping if she shows any signs of distress. For most cats, the only time they’re crated and inside a car is when they’re going to the vet, setting the stage for a stressful encounter once they arrive. This exercise will hopefully de-sensitize your cat, preparing her for “the real thing”, and rewarding her with especially high-value treats should assist in her associating the drive with something pleasurable.
 
7. If none of this helps and your kitty remains stressed both by the drive to the vet and by the visit itself, ask your vet to prescribe a sedative to calm her down for any and all future visits.

by Nomi Berger
 
CLEANING
 
Fabric and rope toys: Most can be washed by hand in hot, soapy water or in hot water in your washing machine. While the hot water and detergent kills the germs, washing them should remove the stains. If using your machine, place your cat’s toys in a garment bag to keep them separate from any other items and avoid scented detergents and fabric softeners that may offend kitty’s sensitive nose. Hang the fabric toys up rather than machine dry them because the dryer can cause them to shrink or warp and the rope toys to unravel.
 
Plastic toys and puzzle games: Wash them by hand with dish detergent and hot water to kill any germs. Remove any sticky residue with a sponge or dishcloth, not a scrubber. Scrubbers create tiny scratches that can harbor bacteria, not only decreasing the life of the toys and games but potentially making your cat ill. Dishwashers aren’t recommended since soft plastics will warp in the heat and lightweight toys can get thrown around inside, possibly breaking both the toy and the dishwasher itself.
 
Fur toys: Whether real or artificial, fur toys are too fragile for the washing machine. Hand wash them in hot, soapy water, rinse them thoroughly, and hang them up to dry.
 
Feather toys: Rinse the feather parts in hot water and hang the toys up to dry.
 
Catnip toys: Most catnip toys are made of fabric, and since cats constantly chew and suck on them, detergent and fabric softeners may contaminate the catnip inside. The safest option is hand rinsing them, wringing them out carefully, then hanging them up to dry. And NEVER put catnip toys in the dryer – the catnip will lose its potency. If, however, your toys are refillable, simply remove the old catnip, rinse the toys themselves in hot water, and put fresh catnip inside once the toys are dry.
 
TOSSING
 
Fabric toys and catnip toys: When a toy starts to rip and the stuffing starts to fall out, throw it away. Otherwise, your cat may swallow some of that stuffing which could cause an intestinal blockage, resulting in an expensive emergency visit to the vet. If your cat urinates on a toy or a toy lands in a soiled litter box, toss it out. No amount of washing will eliminate those odors.
 
Plastic toys: If you notice scratches in any of these toys, toss them out promptly because of the aforementioned issue of bacterial buildup. Similarly, if a toy breaks or small parts have started to come off, chuck it before those parts end up inside your cat’s stomach.
 
Fur and feather toys: Once the feather breaks or begins to fall apart, throw it out and replace it. Fur toys should be thrown out immediately if they’re either soiled by urine or feces or so tattered that kitty is at risk of swallowing bits and pieces of the torn fur.

by Nomi Berger

As you deck the proverbial halls this season, paw-lease keep your purr-ecious kitty in mind. Any changes in her regular routine – a home suddenly filled with new scents, sounds and strangers -- may send even the most sociable cat scampering for safety.
 
Be conscious of and careful about the plants you bring into your home. Despite their obvious beauty, holly, mistletoe and poinsettia are toxic to cats and should be kept out of reach, while a single leaf from any form of lily is lethal. The oils of a Christmas tree can irritate their mouths and stomachs, causing vomiting, while the prickly needles are hazardous to their entire GI tracts.
 
To err on the side of caution, consider buying an artificial tree and artificial plants instead.
 
Consider next the breakable ornaments and dangling tinsel, shiny ribbons and artificial snow, ropes of small lights and flickering candles. All eye-catching eye candy to curious kitties with batting paws, small, sharp teeth and swishing tails.
 
Hang delicate ornaments higher on the tree and resist placing any in decorative bowls on low surfaces. Not only can cats choke on them, but the sharp edges of any broken pieces can lacerate their mouths, throats and intestines. Drape tinsel higher on the tree as well, and keep ribbons on gifts underneath the tree to a minimum. If tinsel or ribbons are swallowed, they can twist and bunch inside a cat’s intestines, causing serious, sometimes fatal damage if not caught quickly enough.
 
Artificial snow is toxic and should be avoided at all costs. Lights, large and small, solid and flickering are another danger, not only because they are hot and breakable, but because of the electrical cords holding them together. If bitten, they can cause electrical shock if not properly grounded, and if frayed, they can cause severe lacerations to your cat’s tongue.
Place all lighted candles out of reach to reduce the risk of singed fur and pads, paws and tails, and lower the chance of them being tipped over, leaving burning wax everywhere or worse, starting a fire.
 
As appetizing as holiday fare is for people, it can prove agonizing, even lethal for pets. The most notorious offenders are:
• Raisins and grapes: A handful of raisins can cause sudden kidney failure in a cat. Also avoid giving her grapes, while watching for signs of toxicity should she accidentally eat some. Signs that usually occur within 24 hours are lack of appetite, lethargy, weakness, abdominal pain, diarrhea and decreased urination.
• Onions and garlic: The sulfoxides and disulfides in both destroy red blood cells and can cause serious blood problems including anemia.
• Fat trimmings: They cause upset stomachs, vomiting and diarrhea.
• Bones: Whatever the size, shape or texture, they all spell the same thing: danger. From throat scratches to stomach perforations to bowel obstructions. To safeguard against these painful possibilities, all leftovers, particularly bones, should be carefully wrapped and promptly disposed of.
• Alcohol: It’s traditional to celebrate the holidays with more alcohol than usual – in cooking and in drinks such as eggnog and fruit punch. For safety’s sake, keep these temptations (including partially eaten plates of food and half-empty glasses) out of the reach of your cat to avoid intoxication and alcohol poisoning.
• Chocolates: Although chocolate has long been taboo for cats, most chocolates are wrapped in foil for the holidays. Now, not only can your cat get sick from eating the chocolate, the wrappers themselves can get stuck in her throat or cause problems as they work their way through her digestive tract.
• Christmas pudding, cake and mince pie: Filled with potentially toxic raisins, currants, and sultanas, they are also made with fat and suet, and laced with alcohol -- from scotch and brandy to sugary liqueurs.
 
And so, with some thoughtful planning beforehand, you and your purr-ecious kitty can enjoy the happiest and healthiest of holidays.

by Nomi Berger
 
Millions of pets go missing each year. Unfortunately, very few of them are ever reunited with their owners. Many of them become and remain strays. Others are taken to pounds or shelters, where they are all too often, euthanized. The luckier ones are saved by rescue organizations and ultimately placed in adoptive homes.
 
But it doesn’t have to be this way. Lately, an increasing number of conscientious cat owners have sought a more permanent solution to this paw-tential source of sleeplessness and stress: micro-chipping.
 
It’s a simple and safe procedure. A veterinarian injects a microchip designed especially for animals -- the size of a grain of rice -- beneath the surface of your cat’s skin between the shoulder blades. Similar to a routine shot, it takes only a few seconds and most animals don’t seem to even feel the implantation. Unlike conventional plastic or metal ID tags, a microchip is permanent and, with no internal energy source, will last the life of your cat. Following the procedure, you must promptly register her with the microchip company (usually for a one-time fee), thus storing her unique, alpha-numeric code in their database.
 
Whenever a lost cat appears at a shelter, humane society or veterinary clinic, she will automatically be scanned for a microchip. If there is one, the screen of the handheld scanner will display her specific code. A simple call to the recovery database using a toll free 800 number enables the code to be traced back to you, her owner. But in order for the system to work efficiently, you MUST keep your cat’s contact information up-to-date.
 
The most complete microchips comply with International Standards Organization (ISO) Standards. These standards define the structure of the microchip’s information content and determine the protocol for scanner-microchip communication. They also include the assignment of a 15-digit numeric identification code to each microchip, made up of the manufacturer’s code or the code for the country in which the cat was implanted as well as each cat’s ID number.
 
As with anything else, however, problems can and do arise. Not all shelters, humane societies, and veterinary offices have scanners. Although rare, microchips can fail, and even universal scanners may not be able to detect every microchip. Accurate detection can also be hampered if pets struggle too much while being scanned or if heavy coats or excess fat deposits cover the implantation site. And because there are an ever-increasing number of animal recovery services, there is, as yet, no single database that links one to the other.
 
Since no method of identification is perfect, the best way owners can protect their cherished kitty companions is by micro-chipping them and never allowing them to roam free.

by Nomi Berger
 
If you approach grooming your cat’s nails with trepidation, hopefully these seven suggestions will help you succeed -- quickly and comfortably.
 
1. Choose your clippers carefully: There are three tools available to you -- tiny scissors with claw-shaped trimming edges, a clipper with a “guillotine” blade that slides across a small hole through which you insert your cat’s claw, and a human fingernail trimmer. Try all three and choose the one that feels most comfortable to you. For best results, always keep the one you select sharp to avoid either crushing your cat’s claw or causing her needless pain.
 
2. Begin slowly: Before your initial attempt at nail trims, begin by accustoming your cat to having her paws handled. Start by petting her, move to stroking her paws, then to gently manipulating her toes as though you were playing “this little piggy went to market”. If she enjoys it, gradually work up to putting gentle pressure on her paw pads to expose her claws. (Since cats have retractile claws, you must gently squeeze each of her toes between your thumb and forefinger to expose each claw). While this may be a slow process, patience is key. The preparatory work you do now will make the actual act of trimming her nails much easier.
 
3. Ask for help: If you’re overly concerned, ask someone to demonstrate the proper technique to you, whether it’s your vet, a groomer or an experienced cat caretaker familiar with your cat. There are also many online resources at your disposal, including a step-by-step guide from Washington State University School of Veterinary Medicine at www.vetmed.wsu.edu/outreach/Pet-Health-Topics/categories/procedures/cats/clipping-your-cat's-claws
 
4. Timing is everything: Select a time when your cat is relaxed. Never attempt to trim her nails just before meals or -- if yours is a multi-cat household – while other cats are hovering nearby.
 
5. Relax: If you approach the procedure in a calm manner, your cat will be more inclined to remain calm as well.
 
6. Reward your cat: Accentuate the paws-itive nature of the experience by rewarding your cat with her favorite treat or a tasty snack, some extra loving or a round of play with her favorite toy. In fact, consider rewarding her after several successfully trimmed nails at first, then taper off as she cooperates more. Never reward her if she runs away or does something you don’t like, such as swat at you. Rewarding her simply reinforces this “bad” behavior.
 
7. One at a time: If your cat starts to squirm after you’ve trimmed only one or two of her nails, stop immediately. Your goal is to make the procedure agreeable not abhorrent.
 
If, however, your cat refuses to cooperate in spite of your best efforts, have her nails trimmed by a groomer or by your vet during her regularly scheduled office visits.

by Nomi Berger
 
There are more cats than dogs in American homes and yet they visit a vet far less often than their canine counterparts.
 
Why?
 
Because our prescient pusses can sense what’s coming and both dread and detest the entire process of GETTING to the vet. Some kitties become so stressed that they vomit or defecate out of fear while others morph into hissing, spitting balls of fury.
 
Since annual (twice a year for seniors) wellness exams are essential for monitoring and maintaining your cat’s health, consider the following tips for making the experience as fear free and tear free as paws-ible.
 
1. Bring out your cat’s carrier several days before your scheduled vet appointment so that she can get used to the sight of it. Leave the door open, thereby allowing her to enter it, explore it and exit it at her leisure.
 
2. Place some of your cat’s favorite treats and/or some catnip inside the carrier to encourage her to associate the carrier with a pleasant and positive experience.
 
3. Make the carrier appear less threatening and more inviting by lining it with one of her blankets topped by several of her favorite toys.
 
4. Spray the interior of the carrier with a synthetic feline pheromone product reputed to decrease and even eliminate stress 30 minutes before using it, then gently put your kitty inside and softly close the door.
 
5. Place the carrier in your car and practice making mock trips to the vet by driving around the block. Once ... twice ... Increasing your driving time as long as she seems comfortable, and stopping immediately if she shows any signs of distress. For most cats, the only time they’re crated and inside a car – a frightening experience on its own -- is when they’re going to the vet, setting the stage for a stressful encounter once they arrive. This exercise will hopefully de-sensitize her, preparing her for “the real thing”, while rewarding her with an especially high value treat should help her associate the drive with something pleasurable.
 
6. If none of this helps and your kitty remains stressed both by the drive to the vet and by the visit itself, ask your vet to prescribe a sedative to calm her down for any and all future visits.
 
7. As a last resort, ask if your vet makes house calls. If not, ask for the name of a vet or a clinic that does. For frazzled felines who feel more confident in familiar surroundings, this may be the purr-fect solution.

by Nomi Berger
 
Walking your indoor cat on a leash not only allows her safe access to the outdoors, but it also provides her with physical exercise and mental stimulation. Whereas some indoor cats much prefer to remain where they are, still others are “hot to trot.”
 
If your indoor cat is curious and confident, enthusiastic and energetic, she may be a purr-ect candidate for a leashed walk. Before you begin, however, make certain that she’s current on all shots, flea and tick treatments. Ensure that she’s micro-chipped and that your contact information is up to date. Buy her a collar with an ID tag that clearly states she’s an indoor cat and that if she gets lost she should be returned home when found.
 
Next comes the harness. A harness is exceptionally secure and will keep your kitty safe and close to you even if she attempts to dart about or, worse, run away. Due to the increased popularity of cats being walked on leashes, there is now an ever-increasing assortment of styles, colors and patterns from which to choose.
 
Even better and, best of all, more comfortable than a harness, is a specially designed walking vest. Durable, adjustable and easy to put on, it’s an especially good choice for regular walkers and/or stronger, more motivated and determined cats.
 
Last but not least is a lightweight cat leash. Avoid both dog leashes and retractable leashes since they’re too heavy for cats. While many cat harnesses already come with a leash, other options are bungee leashes that will give your cat a little more range once you’re outside and at ease.
 
Now begins the process of training your cat. Begin by allowing her to get used to wearing a harness inside – a big step since indoor cats don’t normally wear collars AND harnesses. Start slowly, leaving the harness out on the floor with some treats on it to create a positive association for her and entice her to take the treats while smelling the harness itself.
 
After a few days, put the harness on your cat and promptly provide her with soothing pets and more of those treats. If she’s visibly uncomfortable, however, take the harness off immediately. Then, slowly and patiently, day by day, increase the amount of time she spends in the harness until she no longer minds it. And always remember to highlight the experience by petting her, playing with her, and providing her with treats to ensure that she associates “harness time” with happy times.
 
Once the harness has been well worn in, attach the leash to it and repeat the same process as above. Then as soon as your cat’s comfortable, bring her outside to a safe space -- a patio, deck or any enclosed area where she’s protected from other people and/or other animals. Slowly venture further afield, remembering to continually reward her with loving pets and tasty treats to assure her of the fun that awaits her once she’s well and truly outside. Remember too that any negative experience can set the entire process back, so pay close attention to your surroundings and to any unanticipated threat that may either spook or harm your cat.
 
Cat walks aren’t like dog walks. You will, in all likelihood, stay close to home, and your walk will (unless your kitty is particularly athletic and adventurous) be more of a meander. A chance for your purr-ecious puss to slowly and satisfyingly explore all of the various sights and smells previously unknown to her. A chance for you to watch the world through her eyes while seeing it through your own in an entirely new way. A chance for the two of you to bond more closely and more deeply. What could paws-ibly be better than that?

by Nomi Berger
 
While plastic bowls are cheap, their cost to your cat can be high!
 
Dangerous as food and water bowls, plastics scratch and the bowls’ porous surfaces trap bacteria that thrive on leftover food and saliva. Even after the bowls are cleaned, they may still be contaminated, since washing only cleans their smooth surfaces and doesn’t remove any of the bacteria lurking inside even the smallest of scratches.
 
Plastic both contains and emits a synthetic hormone called Bisphenal A or BPA. A proven endocrine disrupter, BPA impairs brain and neurological function and causes, among other things, chromosomal and reproductive system disorders, diabetes, obesity, cardiovascular damage and cancer.
 
To make plastic more flexible and resilient, it contains Phthalates, so-called “plasticizers.” Phthalates are known to cause cancer in humans and are listed among the ten most toxic chemicals harmful to our bodies.
 
Plastic may also contain certain levels of lead. And, last but not least, and most benign by comparison: plastic may irritate your cat’s chin and cause feline acne.
 
And so, despite being labeled “BPA free” and certified as food safe by the FDA, bowls made of plastic may still contain Phthalates or lead. The solution for caring cat owners is as simple as simply avoiding plastic altogether.
 
Most experts consider the safest alternatives to be glass, stainless steel and some ceramics. Glass is non-porous and non-toxic (it consists of silica, calcium oxide and sodium carbonate – all of them non-toxic), it doesn’t react with acids or other liquids, is dishwasher safe and is very stable. But avoid glass bowls made in Mexico and many other foreign countries with lower regulations and manufacturing standards than the U.S.
 
Stainless steel is lightweight, unbreakable and long lasting. Sanitary and germ-resistant because bacteria can’t enter its hard, non-porous surface, it doesn’t scratch easily, stain or rust despite constant use, doesn’t react with liquids or foods, is easy to clean and is dishwasher safe.
 
If considering ceramic bowls, make certain they’re of the highest quality (never buy cheap ceramic bowls made in China), dishwasher safe and have a lead-free, food-grade glaze. To ensure your cat’s safety, they, along with glass bowls, should be quickly discarded if they develop chips or cracks.
 
Whatever choice you, as a conscientious cat owner, make, be certain to wash your cat’s bowls thoroughly after each use with soap and water and dry them well to kill any lingering germs. Put wet food bowls in the dishwasher at least three to four times a week to sterilize them or, even better, daily. Cats don’t like eating or drinking from dirty bowls, and being as highly sensitive to smell as they are, may express their displeasure by refusing to eat or drink anything at all.
 
But then, who could blame them?

by Nomi Berger
 
Pet parents find that cats of all ages -- from playful kittens to sedentary seniors -- will often engage in laser pointer play, stimulating them and encouraging them to be more mobile with minimal effort on their humans’ part.
 
But as ideal as it sounds, are laser toys good for -- even safe for – your cat?
 
To allay your concerns, begin by choosing a toy specifically designed for cats. This means avoiding all high-powered laser pointers and any not manufactured and sold with felines in mind. Those considered safe should have a power rating of five milliwatts or less. Anything higher is potentially dangerous. Most importantly, never point the laser directly at your cat’s face or eyes, projecting its dancing red dot instead on any inanimate object within her field of vision. And because she can injure herself by lunging into a wall or cabinet or by jumping off furniture, avoid aiming the dot at any high places and stay away from stairs.
 
Engaging your cat in laser play helps keep her fit and helps strengthen the bond between you. Chasing an erratically moving laser light also mimics her hunting behavior, often triggering her strong and instinctual prey drive. But for the greatest success, it’s essential that you keep each play session short and fun, challenging and engaging, and to end the session when your cat seems to be losing interest in it. If, however, you insist on continuing, she’ll either ignore the dot, stop playing altogether or simply stalk off with a sassy swish of her tail and a “so there!” shake of her head. Get the hint?
 
The major drawback to a laser pointer, though, is that it’s a toy your cat cannot catch. For such a prey-driven animal, there’s no natural “end” to the game, no “reward”, which can prove extremely frustrating for her. Some kitties may even begin to show signs of anxiety or exhibit such stress-related behaviors as clawing at the furniture, inappropriate chewing or aggression.
 
To prevent this, offer your cat several high-value treats together with pets and praise at the end of each play session. Two other options are having the red dot “land” on a toy she likes so that she can pounce and close her paws around it or switching from the laser to a toy on a fishing rod so that she feel the joy of catching her prey and “killing” it.

by Nomi Berger
 
Due to the increased availability of both medical and recreational marijuana, as well as its use in foods, pills, oils and tinctures, marijuana is more accessible than ever before. It’s also stronger because new hybrids and cultivation techniques have resulted in plants with significantly more THC (Delta-9 Tetrahydrocannabinol, the psychoactive compound) than in decades past.
 
It therefore poses an even greater threat to one’s cherished cat since THC and other cannabinoids affect the central nervous system, causing disruption of normal movement and behavior. The most common ways for cats to be exposed to marijuana is by inhaling its smoke or by ingesting the dried marijuana itself. Because of the cumulative effects of inhaling this smoke, cat owners who use marijuana, whether medical or recreational, should never smoke anywhere near their cats, particularly ones with asthma or any other lung diseases.
 
In some cases, cats may nibble on the leaves and/or buds of homegrown marijuana plants. Unthinking owners may also feed their cats cookies, brownies or candies infused with marijuana, posing a double threat to their health because anything containing chocolate or the artificial sweetener, xylitol, can lead to a double dose of toxicity.
 
As with all products, plants and medications dangerous for pet consumption, cat owners using marijuana in any form should store it somewhere out of reach of curious noses and even more curious paws – in a tall shelf, cabinet or drawer with a child-proof lock. The use of a thick glass container with a twist-off lid provides additional security because even if kitty does discover it, the lid’s impossible to pry open.
 
The most common side effects of marijuana intoxication are dilated pupils, lack of coordination (falling over or walking “drunkenly”), sedation or lethargy, vomiting, urinary incontinence, and slow heart and respiratory rates. However, about 25 percent of those who have ingested THC become stimulated instead, with agitation, excessive vocalization and high heart rates being possible side effects. After ingestion, cats can become affected in minutes to hours, and signs can last for hours.
 
If you suspect your cat has ingested marijuana and is unable to walk or cannot be roused, contact your vet immediately. Know too that veterinarians are NOT required to contact the police, even in states where marijuana is illegal. What’s of utmost importance is getting your cat prompt medical assistance.
 
Treatment for marijuana intoxication can include confinement in a kennel to prevent injury, intravenous fluids to keep her blood pressure normal and medications to lower her heart rate. Cats most severely affected may also benefit from intravenous lipid emulsions to help decrease the amount of cannabinoids circulating through their system.
 
The takeaway from this -- keep a watchful eye on your cat if there’s marijuana around.