by Nomi Berger

Head pressing is the compulsive act of a cat repeatedly and relentlessly pressing her head against a wall or any other hard surface for no apparent reason. Different from head butting -- when a cat rubs or bumps her head, particularly against a person, as a sign of affection -- head pressing is usually a sign of damage to her nervous system.
 
Should you notice your kitty engaging in head pressing, it’s essential to pay a prompt visit to your vet. Provide your vet with a comprehensive history of your cat’s overall health, noting when the head pressing began and what incidents may have preceded it. Describe any symptoms that accompany her head pressing, including abnormal vocalization, compulsive pacing and circling, changes in learned behavior, seizures, damaged reflexes, disorientation and visual impairment. Some of these symptoms may have already manifested themselves physically – from sores on her feet due to compulsive pacing to injuries on her face or head caused by pressing her head against a hard surface for an extended period of time.
 
After first examining her thoroughly, your vet will then focus on uncovering the underlying cause of her behavior by performing a fundic examination of each retina (the layer of the eye that receives and processes images) and the other structures at the back of each eye. This may reveal irregularities in her brain, some infectious disease or an inflammatory disease. Your vet will also have blood work and a urinalysis done, which could reveal a problem with her metabolic system or indicate the presence of toxins in her system. Other tests may include taking her blood pressure to determine if she has high blood pressure and ordering a CT scan and/or MRI scan of her brain.
 
Armed with the results of these various tests, your vet should be able to pinpoint the reason behind your cat’s head pressing. Some of the most common are a brain tumor, prosencephalon disease (damage to the forebrain and thalamus), encephalitis (inflammation of the brain), liver shunts, disorders of the metabolism, toxic poisoning, an infection (rabies and viruses, fungal and parasitic infections) and acute head trauma, possibly resulting from a car accident.
 
The treatment prescribed will depend on the condition causing the head pressing in the first place. Example: serious issues such as brain tumors or encephalitis may require surgery and hospitalization. Example: if your cat has a metabolic disorder, she may be treated with medications on an outpatient basis.
 
But whatever the treatment, your vet will recommend follow-up neurological examinations to monitor the progress of the condition. If, however, no diagnosis can be made, your cat may continue her head pressing. Be certain, though, to alert your vet as to any new behaviors or symptoms that may appear.

While head pressing is serious, the potential for a full recovery, depending on the underlying cause, is possible for many cats. But sadly, for others, the condition can be fatal.

by Nomi Berger
 
Hypertension, or high blood pressure, occurs when a cat’s arterial blood pressure is continually higher than normal. When caused by another disease, it’s known as secondary hypertension, while primary hypertension refers to the disease itself, and it has the potential to affect many parts of a cat’s body including her eyes, heart, kidneys and nervous system.
 
The following are some of the more common symptoms of hypertension: dilated pupils; involuntary rolling of the eyeballs; hemorrhage of the eye; retinal detachment; blindness; bleeding from the nose; circling; disorientation; seizures; a palpable thyroid gland (when she’s hyperthyroid); heart murmurs; blood in the urine; protein in the urine; swollen or shrunken kidneys, and weakness -- on one side of the body or in the legs.
 
While the precise cause of primary hypertension isn’t known, it may have a genetic component. And although studies have varied, one recent study in cats aged from 4 to 20 years old found that 65 percent of those with chronic renal failure and 87 percent of those with hyperthyroidism suffered from mild high blood pressure. On the other hand, secondary hypertension, which accounts for 80 percent of all hypertension cases, may be due to a variety of factors including hormonal fluctuation, hyperthyroidism, renal disease, and quite possibly, diabetes.
 
How, then, is hypertension diagnosed in a cat? The equipment your vet will use is similar to that used in people, with an inflatable cuff placed around one of your cat’s legs or tail. Measuring her blood pressure takes only a few minutes, is pain-free and is extremely well tolerated by most cats.
 
The standards for a cat’s blood pressure are:
150/95 – at this reading or below, there is minimal risk to her and treatment isn’t usually recommended.
150/99 to 159/95 – once again, intervention isn’t routinely recommended at these readings.
160/119 to 179/100 -- treatment IS recommended in order to limit the risk of any damage to her organs.
180/120 – PROMPT treatment is recommended to limit the degree of other more severe complications.
 
Should your cat be diagnosed with hypertension, managing her care has two aims: First, to reduce her blood pressure by using anti-hypertensive drugs -- either a calcium channel blocker or a beta-blocker. As for her diet, your vet will, in all likelihood, recommend she be given foods that are low in sodium. Secondly, to search for an underlying disease that has caused her hypertension by collecting and testing samples of her blood and urine. In some cases, treating the underlying disease may also resolve her high blood pressure.
 
In cats with primary hypertension, it’s usually possible to manage the condition and prevent future complications such as damage to her eyes. In cats with secondary hypertension, the long-term outlook depends on the nature and severity of the disease that caused her high blood pressure in the first place. But whether primary or secondary hypertension, it’s vital to have your vet monitor your cat on a regular basis.

by Nomi Berger
 
Whether you’re familiar or unfamiliar with this condition, simply put, feline stomatitis is a severe and painful inflammation of a cat’s mouth and gums. Affecting cats of any age and breed, it usually causes ulcers that can involve a cat’s lips, tongue, gums and the back of her throat.
 
While there’s no one cause of feline stomatitis, dental disease -- especially periodontal disease -- is very often the culprit. Why? Periodontal disease occurs when bacteria, or plaque, accumulates on and around a cat’s teeth, resulting in the inflammation of her gums and the structures that support her teeth.
 
Many times, stomatitis results from a cat’s abnormal response to the bacteria in her mouth, causing her immune system to literally attack its own oral tissues. Other conditions associated with stomatitis include such viruses as feline leukemia virus (FeLV), feline immunodeficiency virus (FIV), calicivirus and bartonellosis.
 
Since stomatitis is so painful, sometimes a cat suffering from this condition may be in too much pain to even open her mouth to eat. Or she may try to eat but scream out and drop her food the instant it touches her mouth. Other signs of stomatitis may include drooling (sometimes with blood), unkempt coat (when grooming herself is too painful), bad breath, weight loss and pawing at her face or mouth.
 
Examining the mouth of a cat with stomatitis can be extremely difficult if she refuses to open her mouth, and your vet may recommend she be sedated to conduct a thorough examination. A dental exam and x-rays can help determine the extent of any periodontal disease, and while the results of basic blood tests -- a complete blood cell count (CBC) and chemistry panel – may register as normal, ensure that your vet runs specific tests for FeLV, FIV and bartonellosis.
 
Treatment usually begins with medication to control the pain and inflammation of the condition, while antibiotics are also often administered. Many cats may even be willing to attempt eating soft food, and if yours is one of those, puree wet canned food for her until her mouth heals.
 
Although stomatitis is difficult to cure completely and treatment is, in most cases, long-term (the administration of anti-inflammatory medications and antibiotics intermittently), your vet will, in all likelihood recommend managing her dental disease by starting with a complete dental cleaning. Many cats do well once their molar and premolar teeth are removed. Because tooth surfaces provide areas for bacteria to attach themselves, removing these teeth can help minimize that bacterial growth. Brushing your cat’s teeth on a regular basis will also help reduce the accumulation of plaque and its associated inflammation of her gums.
 
If all else fails, however, removing the rest of your cat’s teeth may be the only option. But fret not, cats tend to do very well without their teeth.

by Nomi Berger
 
Has your senior kitty been wolfing down her food but losing weight? Has her fur lost its luster? Is she overly active, crying at night, and flooding her litter box?
 
If so, she may be suffering from feline hyperthyroidism.
 
Please review the seven Questions and Answers below to educate yourself more fully about this condition.
 
1. What are the thyroid glands? Located on either side of your cat’s trachea or windpipe, these two tiny glands produce the hormones that affect many of her body’s functions. Controlling the rate at which your cat burns energy is of utmost importance when it comes to hyperthyroidism.
 
2. What is behind feline hyperthyroidism? A tumor growing on one (or both) of her thyroid glands causes her body to produce too much thyroid hormone, which, in turn, causes her body to burn energy too quickly.
 
3. What are its symptoms? You’ve already noticed them! Since her body’s burning energy too rapidly, she’ll always be hungry and, in spite of her increased food consumption, she’ll still be losing weight. She’ll drink water and urinate too much. Her behavior will also be affected, resulting in such changes as increased activity, restlessness, and even aggression. Her fur will start looking both greasy and messy.
 
4. How is this condition diagnosed? Your vet will perform a blood test that measures the levels of thyroid hormones in your cat’s blood. If the levels are high, she’s deemed to be hyperthyroid.
 
5. What are the available treatments? The three most common forms of treatment for feline hyperthyroidism (all three have benefits as well as risks) are medication, radioactive iodine therapy and surgery.
 
Medication: The most common medication used today is methimazole (trade name Tapazole or Felimazole). It decreases the level of thyroid hormone in your cat’s blood and is available as a pill or as a gel that you apply to her skin. Most cats tolerate methimazole fairly well, with minimal side effects. While it appears to be the least expensive option, the costs do add up over time.
 
Radioactive iodine (I-131) therapy: Considered to be the “gold standard” of treatment, not every vet clinic offers this treatment and it’s fairly expensive. BUT! Once done, your cat is cured.
 
Surgery: Although removing the affected thyroid gland is an option, it might not resolve the issue. There may be tumor cells in other parts of your cat’s body that will continue to overproduce thyroid hormone or she may no longer produce enough of the hormone and have to remain on medication for the rest of her life.
 
6. Is there a prescription diet for hyperthyroid cats? Yes. It’s designed to be TOO low in iodine, a chemical that helps the thyroid glands produce hormones. But it remains a controversial subject among most veterinarians for two reasons: has it been adequately studied, and what are the effects the LACK of iodine may have on a cat’s overall health?
 
7. What are the complications of feline hyperthyroidism? Included in the various possible complications are high blood pressure, difficulty breathing and heart problems, but it can also disguise other conditions such as kidney disease.
 
Feline hyperthyroidism CAN be managed. All that’s required is teamwork: TLC and commitment on your part coupled with the ongoing advice and support of a vet you trust.

by Nomi Berger
 
Whereas some cat breeds meow more than others, others simply enjoy making noises.
 
Consider, though, these seven possible reasons for a cat’s EXCESSIVE meowing.
 
1. She might be in heat. The meowing of an intact kitten or cat is eerily loud and sounds as if she’s in pain. These meows are usually accompanied by overly affectionate behavior on her part and an odd, sway-backed position when you pet her near her hind end.
 
2. She might have hyperthyroidism. Typically found in older cats, hyperthyroidism’s symptoms include weight loss despite a ravenous appetite, excessive activity and excessive vocalization. If your cat’s exhibiting these symptoms and won’t stop meowing, take her to the vet immediately for a thorough examination and blood tests.
 
3. She might have vision or hearing loss. If your older cat won’t stop meowing once you’ve turned off the lights and gone to bed, she may feel hopelessly lost. If she’s even partially blind or deaf, she won’t be able to make her way around once familiar surroundings, and may not be able to either hear or find you.
 
4. She might be senile. Known as feline cognitive dysfunction or cat dementia, this condition causes numerous problems – all of which can leave kitty feeling scared and disoriented. Her reaction: wails, yowls and excessive meowing. A cat suffering from cognitive dysfunction may also be more irritable, sleep more or have altered sleep cycles, lose coordination, and, on occasion, become incontinent.
 
5. She might have feline hyperesthesia syndrome. A cat with this condition often appears wild-eyed and will act bizarrely -- as though hallucinating. She’ll cry and yowl loudly and may experience strange mood swings. Her skin may “ripple” as if the air was painful, and she might have sudden bouts of over-grooming that may even lead to hair loss.
 
6. She might be in pain. Although cats seldom show pain, when she’s truly in agony, she won’t stop meowing. Example: a kitty with a severe urinary tract infection, causing her to run back and forth to the litter box, attempting and failing to pee, while the effort itself is so painful that she “me-ows” and “me-ows!”
 
7. She might be lonely or bored. A single cat closely bonded with you is especially susceptible to feelings of loneliness or boredom. In this case, her excessive meowing will usually begin after you’ve gone to bed and will continue until you either respond to her or she finally grows tired of “asking” for attention. If possible, the purr-fect solution is adopting a second cat to be her constant companion.

by Nomi Berger
 
Do curiosity and counter cruising go paw in paw in your household?
 
Whether your cat climber’s intent is to forage for forgotten food or find the finest view of the kitchen, this may be one habit you’d be happy to break.
 
If so, begin by determining the reason or reasons behind her fondness for prowling your counter tops in the first place. Is it because desirable items, like food, are readily accessible to her? The counter provides a pathway to a particularly enticing spot such as a window ledge? There’s fresh running or dripping water in the sink? She’s bored and eager for adventure? Or she simply enjoys gazing down on her kitty cat world from “on high.”
 
Whatever the reason, in order to curb your kitty’s curiosity and combat her climbing, keep your counters cleared of all temptation. This means returning china and glasses to cabinets and foodstuffs to their proper places, cleaning the counters of crumbs, and removing all toys and anything remotely resembling a toy – from elastics and strings to paper clips and paper bags.
 
Add a tall cat condo or cat tree to satisfy her craving for height and place it close to her favorite window for easy access and enjoyable viewing. Or create an entirely new favorite place for her to perch by placing a bird feeder outside an easily accessible window.
 
Repair any leaky sink faucets, thereby eliminating the allure of dripping water that’s all too available by way of the counter top. Or provide your kitty with a specially designed fountain – on the floor – that offers her a continuous stream of clean, refreshing water instead.
 
If a nearby chair is aiding and abetting your kitty’s acrobatic leaps, remove it.
 
Counter cruising is often a “meow” for attention from a kitty who’s bored and in need of stimulation. If this sounds familiar, play more often and more interactively with your kitty to satisfy this need, burn off that extra energy, and happily tire her out.
 
Since cats dislike sticky surfaces, put double-sided tape on one side of several inexpensive plastic place mats and line the counter with them. Then, should your cat jump onto the counter, the discomfort will, in all likelihood, cause her to jump off again.
 
Most importantly, reward your kitty for any positive behavior on her part. If, e.g., she jumps onto the cat tree instead of onto the counter, praise her verbally, with extra pets, and the occasional high value treat. It’s a well-known fact that animals repeat what benefits them most.
 
Conversely, never punish your cat. She can’t make the connection between the punishment and the behavior that prompted it. Verbal and/or physical punishment will only make her fear you and may even cause her to act out. Nor do such deterrents as the use of spray bottles work. Not only do YOU become associated with a highly unpleasant sensation but she may continue her unwanted behavior when you’re not around.
 
Remember, as with any behavioral modification plan, consistency – and patience -- is key to a successful outcome.

by Nomi Berger
 
Most cats don’t drink enough water. Does YOURS? If the answer is no, consider the following suggestions.
 
1. Change to a mostly wet-food diet: Since canned food has more moisture than dry food, it’s one of the simplest ways to “fool” your feline into drinking more water and to avoid the threat of dehydration. If yours isn’t fond of wet food, however, try adding water or broth to her dry food and serving her that instead. But if yours LOVES canned food, make it even wetter and soupier with added water or broth.
 
2. Put an ice cube in her food: Not only does it add moisture, it’s like a treat – albeit a cold one. But because the cube takes on the food’s flavor, while she’s licking it, she’s getting more of the water she needs. Place several cubes in her water bowl as well if she, like many people, purr-fers her water icy cold.
 
3. Serve her smaller, more frequent meals: Since the very act of eating prompts thirst, if your cat’s not drinking water, eating more often should make her not only need to but actually want water.
 
4. Place water bowls throughout your home: It’s not easy for curious kitties to pass so many appealing sights without stopping to investigate them and – hopefully – sample what they’re offering.
 
5. Location is everything: If your cat’s not drinking water, she may not like her water bowl’s location or it may not be as easily accessible to her as it should be. Take care, as well, to keep her water bowl far away from her litter box. Remember: her litter box is where she potties.
 
6. Refill her water bowl regularly: Cats like FRESH water! Please change her water at least once during the day and to keep it scrupulously clean, wash the bowl thoroughly with soap and water, dry it, refill it, and put it down again at the end of the day.
 
7. Think sink: If your cat’s attracted to running water, take advantage of her fascination and make drinking it a game. Turn on the cold water faucet and let it run for a few minutes several times a day. Incorporate it into your morning and/or evening playtime routine and reward her with effusive praise and some extra playing when she accepts drinking water as one of her regular activities.
 
8. Flavor the water: A cat turning her paws down at drinking “ordinary” water might drink flavored water. Try flavoring your kitty’s water with some chicken broth, the liquid from a tin of tuna or sardines or some clam juice (sold in bottles at supermarkets). Make certain, though, to have at least one bowl of plain, fresh water close by at all times.  
 
9. Use cat fountains: Many fussy felines, once they’re accustomed to it, LOVE drinking from fountains. Not only are they intriguing to a cat because of the continuous movement of the water but the water always stays fresh.
 
10. Use feline-friendly bowls: Cats have highly sensitive whiskers and may find the sensation of their whiskers touching the sides of their water bowls extremely unpleasant. They’ll often drink more water when it’s in large, shallow bowls rather than in small, deep ones.

 by Nomi Berger
 
Curious about the meaning behind YOUR kitty’s tail wag? According to many cat behaviorists, the manner in which your frolicsome feline wags her tail can have several different meanings.
 
Consider then:
 
“The Swish”
 
Playing cats will often swish their tails from side to side before pouncing. On the other paw, the speed and direction with which they swish their tails can also convey their emotions. When they thrash their tails back and forth quickly, it indicates that they’re unhappy and want to be left alone. When they move their tails slowly from left to right, it shows that they’re mildly annoyed.
 
“The Twitch”
 
How often have you witnessed your kitty sitting on a windowsill, concentrating intently on nature’s “TV screen” in the form of a flying bird, a fluttering butterfly or a scampering squirrel when her tail starts to twitch? The set of her ears and eyes and the vocalizations she makes along with this familiar twitch indicates one of two things: she’s maintaining her laser-like focus on what she sees or she’s unduly upset for some reason. In either scenario, her message to you is “leave me alone.”
 
“The Quiver”
 
This is a rapid and tiny wagging movement -- much like a rattlesnake’s but cuter, not to mention safer. When your kitty’s excited to see you, she may approach you with her tail held vertically aloft and only the tip of it making those quick little quivering motions. This warm greeting is often accompanied by purring, happy chirrups or meows, and rubbing her face against your ankles or legs.
 
“The Sleepy Flick”
 
Unlike their canine counterparts who respond immediately when called, our more laid back feline friends seem to favor pondering their response before acting on it. And what better to demonstrate this to us than with a slow, sleepy flick of their tails against the floor. But offer them food? The mere sound of a can being opened or the aroma of something deliciously familiar wafting their way, and no more sleepy flicks for them. All pretense past, this is one “call” they’re more than eager to answer -- promptly.
 
If they’re sleeping, however, and we call out to them, many mischievous kitties prefer to play games. Rather then openly acknowledging us, they’ll reply with a single, subtly dismissive flick of their tail. The message behind this sweet snub: “I can hear you, but I’m pretending to ignore you.”
 
Be flattered! This form of tail wag is, in fact, a sign of your cat’s contentment. She’s letting you know in kitty parlance that she’s comfortable staying asleep in your presence. But then, as every head-over-heels in love feline fancier knows, your precious, precocious puss always has you right where she wants you: fittingly wrapped around her fine, furry paw.

by Nomi Berger
 
The short answer, despite several theories: no one really knows.
 
And yet, consider the following:
 
Safekeeping: The theory given the most credence by animal behaviorists involves a cat’s territorial instinct. They believe cats consider their food and water bowls to be safe places, known only to them. Depositing a prized possession – in this instance, a favorite toy -- in one or other of their bowls is their way of keeping it safe. The rationale behind this paw-ticular theory? A domesticated cat’s wild relatives such as leopards, bobcats and wildcats have been known to store their food in a safe location known as a cache. Because indoor cats don’t have caches, their food and/or water bowls are the purr-fect substitutes in which to hide their own “bounty.”
 
Hunting: There are two theories, both based on the assumption that your cat associates her toys with food or prey. One theory posits that when a toy (everything from rubber mice and moppy balls to catnip squirrels and fuzzy turtles) is dropped into her water bowl, she’s equating this with hunting and may be attempting to drown her prey before devouring it. The second theory suggests that she’s trying to teach YOU to hunt, the way a mother cat teaches her kittens when she brings the prey she’s caught back to them. And because you’re a regular “visitor” to her water bowl, she’s left that toy there for you to find.
 
Playing: Many wild cats feel extremely comfortable in and around water and will often play in it. Similarly, some domesticated cats may drop their toys into their water bowls in order to fish them out -- as their own form of playing.
 
Reliving that happy feeling: For your cat, her food bowl is a happy place, the source of everything good. And since she loves to eat, she undoubtedly associates her food bowl with those happy feelings. It’s theorized, then, that she’s merely bringing objects she likes (one or more toys) to a place she loves (her food bowl).
 
Expediency: Some cats are seldom seen without a toy in their mouths, and they simply drop it into their food or water bowls because they can’t hold onto the toy and eat or drink at the same time.
 
Can you – or should you -- stop your own cat from dropping her toys into her food or water bowl? Some behaviorists say “no”. Why? As peculiar as this particular habit may seem to you, it may, in fact, be instinctive in nature. If so, it may be impossible to try and stop her from doing what nature intended her to do.
 
Even if you did manage to stop her, any resourceful cat would quickly find an alternate safe place for her prized possessions -- such as your sink, bathtub or toilet bowl. Or if she’s the “gifting” kind of kitty, she may generously and lovingly deposit one of her water-logged toys on top of your head in the middle of the night!

by Nomi Berger
 
Scooting (the act of a pet dragging his/her bum along the ground) may be seen more often in dogs, but cats sometimes scoot as well – usually when their rears are itchy or irritated.
 
One of the more common causes of this phenomenon is intestinal parasites, particularly tapeworms. Whereas tapeworms can be seen in your cat’s poop (they look like grains of white rice), some parasites are invisible to the naked eye. Other signs of a parasite infestation include diarrhea or constipation, weight loss and a potbelly.
 
If your cat suffers from allergies – most often environmental -- that cause itchy skin, the itchiness can extend to every area of her body, including her bum. Various environmental allergies include dust and pollen, mold and mites, even fleas.
 
Although cats seem to have fewer anal gland issues than dogs, your cat’s sudden scooting may, in fact, indicate a problem with her anal glands. Anal glands, two small internal sacs positioned on either side of the anus that produce a pungent liquid, should, if they’re working properly, express each time your cat poops and remove any fecal bacteria along with it.
 
Sometimes, though, inflammation keeps this liquid from being expelled. Instead, it builds up inside the sacs where it can become very thick, almost paste like, leading to the sacs being impacted. The result of such extreme discomfort is the sight of your cat scooting along any and all surfaces in an effort to find some relief. If her sacs are impacted, however, and bacteria gets into them, they can become infected and potentially abscess.
 
To learn why your cat is scooting, bring her promptly to the vet for a thorough physical examination that will include a search for signs of parasites, areas of itchy skin and problems with her anal glands. Your vet will likely do a fecal test and possibly a de-worming especially if diarrhea is involved and check for any kind of perianal or vulvar inflammation infection, including the presence of yeast, which can be extremely itchy.
 
In short, treating your cat’s scooting depends on the cause. A thorough de-worming should eliminate any irritating intestinal parasites from her system. The prognosis for recovery from an infection of intestinal parasites is good, with most cats being completely cured within several weeks of treatment.
 
Although allergies may be more complicated to pin down, once the cause has been identified, your vet will be able to prescribe an appropriate treatment such as a topical medication to soothe her itchiness, perhaps even changing the food she eats as well.
 
If her anal glands are impacted or infected, your vet will express the affected sac(s), flushing out the solidified material, infuse the sac(s) with an anti-inflammatory and have you administer antibiotics orally to her in order to kill the remaining bacteria.
 
In most cases of impacted anal glands, the original cause of the condition remains a mystery. Some studies show a connection between a primarily wet or canned food diet and scooting, suggesting that cats suffering from recurring bouts of scooting may need a higher content of dry food or food that contains more fiber or bone meal elements to assist in proper bowel expression.