by Nomi Berger
 
Has your senior kitty been wolfing down her food but losing weight? Has her fur lost its luster? Is she overly active, crying at night, and flooding her litter box?
 
If so, she may be suffering from feline hyperthyroidism.
 
Please review the seven Questions and Answers below to educate yourself more fully about this condition.
 
1. What are the thyroid glands? Located on either side of your cat’s trachea or windpipe, these two tiny glands produce the hormones that affect many of her body’s functions. Controlling the rate at which your cat burns energy is of utmost importance when it comes to hyperthyroidism.
 
2. What is behind feline hyperthyroidism? A tumor growing on one (or both) of her thyroid glands causes her body to produce too much thyroid hormone, which, in turn, causes her body to burn energy too quickly.
 
3. What are its symptoms? You’ve already noticed them! Since her body’s burning energy too rapidly, she’ll always be hungry and, in spite of her increased food consumption, she’ll still be losing weight. She’ll drink water and urinate too much. Her behavior will also be affected, resulting in such changes as increased activity, restlessness, and even aggression. Her fur will start looking both greasy and messy.
 
4. How is this condition diagnosed? Your vet will perform a blood test that measures the levels of thyroid hormones in your cat’s blood. If the levels are high, she’s deemed to be hyperthyroid.
 
5. What are the available treatments? The three most common forms of treatment for feline hyperthyroidism (all three have benefits as well as risks) are medication, radioactive iodine therapy and surgery.
 
Medication: The most common medication used today is methimazole (trade name Tapazole or Felimazole). It decreases the level of thyroid hormone in your cat’s blood and is available as a pill or as a gel that you apply to her skin. Most cats tolerate methimazole fairly well, with minimal side effects. While it appears to be the least expensive option, the costs do add up over time.
 
Radioactive iodine (I-131) therapy: Considered to be the “gold standard” of treatment, not every vet clinic offers this treatment and it’s fairly expensive. BUT! Once done, your cat is cured.
 
Surgery: Although removing the affected thyroid gland is an option, it might not resolve the issue. There may be tumor cells in other parts of your cat’s body that will continue to overproduce thyroid hormone or she may no longer produce enough of the hormone and have to remain on medication for the rest of her life.
 
6. Is there a prescription diet for hyperthyroid cats? Yes. It’s designed to be TOO low in iodine, a chemical that helps the thyroid glands produce hormones. But it remains a controversial subject among most veterinarians for two reasons: has it been adequately studied, and what are the effects the LACK of iodine may have on a cat’s overall health?
 
7. What are the complications of feline hyperthyroidism? Included in the various possible complications are high blood pressure, difficulty breathing and heart problems, but it can also disguise other conditions such as kidney disease.
 
Feline hyperthyroidism CAN be managed. All that’s required is teamwork: TLC and commitment on your part coupled with the ongoing advice and support of a vet you trust.

by Nomi Berger
 
Whereas some cat breeds meow more than others, others simply enjoy making noises.
 
Consider, though, these seven possible reasons for a cat’s EXCESSIVE meowing.
 
1. She might be in heat. The meowing of an intact kitten or cat is eerily loud and sounds as if she’s in pain. These meows are usually accompanied by overly affectionate behavior on her part and an odd, sway-backed position when you pet her near her hind end.
 
2. She might have hyperthyroidism. Typically found in older cats, hyperthyroidism’s symptoms include weight loss despite a ravenous appetite, excessive activity and excessive vocalization. If your cat’s exhibiting these symptoms and won’t stop meowing, take her to the vet immediately for a thorough examination and blood tests.
 
3. She might have vision or hearing loss. If your older cat won’t stop meowing once you’ve turned off the lights and gone to bed, she may feel hopelessly lost. If she’s even partially blind or deaf, she won’t be able to make her way around once familiar surroundings, and may not be able to either hear or find you.
 
4. She might be senile. Known as feline cognitive dysfunction or cat dementia, this condition causes numerous problems – all of which can leave kitty feeling scared and disoriented. Her reaction: wails, yowls and excessive meowing. A cat suffering from cognitive dysfunction may also be more irritable, sleep more or have altered sleep cycles, lose coordination, and, on occasion, become incontinent.
 
5. She might have feline hyperesthesia syndrome. A cat with this condition often appears wild-eyed and will act bizarrely -- as though hallucinating. She’ll cry and yowl loudly and may experience strange mood swings. Her skin may “ripple” as if the air was painful, and she might have sudden bouts of over-grooming that may even lead to hair loss.
 
6. She might be in pain. Although cats seldom show pain, when she’s truly in agony, she won’t stop meowing. Example: a kitty with a severe urinary tract infection, causing her to run back and forth to the litter box, attempting and failing to pee, while the effort itself is so painful that she “me-ows” and “me-ows!”
 
7. She might be lonely or bored. A single cat closely bonded with you is especially susceptible to feelings of loneliness or boredom. In this case, her excessive meowing will usually begin after you’ve gone to bed and will continue until you either respond to her or she finally grows tired of “asking” for attention. If possible, the purr-fect solution is adopting a second cat to be her constant companion.

by Nomi Berger
 
Do curiosity and counter cruising go paw in paw in your household?
 
Whether your cat climber’s intent is to forage for forgotten food or find the finest view of the kitchen, this may be one habit you’d be happy to break.
 
If so, begin by determining the reason or reasons behind her fondness for prowling your counter tops in the first place. Is it because desirable items, like food, are readily accessible to her? The counter provides a pathway to a particularly enticing spot such as a window ledge? There’s fresh running or dripping water in the sink? She’s bored and eager for adventure? Or she simply enjoys gazing down on her kitty cat world from “on high.”
 
Whatever the reason, in order to curb your kitty’s curiosity and combat her climbing, keep your counters cleared of all temptation. This means returning china and glasses to cabinets and foodstuffs to their proper places, cleaning the counters of crumbs, and removing all toys and anything remotely resembling a toy – from elastics and strings to paper clips and paper bags.
 
Add a tall cat condo or cat tree to satisfy her craving for height and place it close to her favorite window for easy access and enjoyable viewing. Or create an entirely new favorite place for her to perch by placing a bird feeder outside an easily accessible window.
 
Repair any leaky sink faucets, thereby eliminating the allure of dripping water that’s all too available by way of the counter top. Or provide your kitty with a specially designed fountain – on the floor – that offers her a continuous stream of clean, refreshing water instead.
 
If a nearby chair is aiding and abetting your kitty’s acrobatic leaps, remove it.
 
Counter cruising is often a “meow” for attention from a kitty who’s bored and in need of stimulation. If this sounds familiar, play more often and more interactively with your kitty to satisfy this need, burn off that extra energy, and happily tire her out.
 
Since cats dislike sticky surfaces, put double-sided tape on one side of several inexpensive plastic place mats and line the counter with them. Then, should your cat jump onto the counter, the discomfort will, in all likelihood, cause her to jump off again.
 
Most importantly, reward your kitty for any positive behavior on her part. If, e.g., she jumps onto the cat tree instead of onto the counter, praise her verbally, with extra pets, and the occasional high value treat. It’s a well-known fact that animals repeat what benefits them most.
 
Conversely, never punish your cat. She can’t make the connection between the punishment and the behavior that prompted it. Verbal and/or physical punishment will only make her fear you and may even cause her to act out. Nor do such deterrents as the use of spray bottles work. Not only do YOU become associated with a highly unpleasant sensation but she may continue her unwanted behavior when you’re not around.
 
Remember, as with any behavioral modification plan, consistency – and patience -- is key to a successful outcome.

by Nomi Berger
 
Most cats don’t drink enough water. Does YOURS? If the answer is no, consider the following suggestions.
 
1. Change to a mostly wet-food diet: Since canned food has more moisture than dry food, it’s one of the simplest ways to “fool” your feline into drinking more water and to avoid the threat of dehydration. If yours isn’t fond of wet food, however, try adding water or broth to her dry food and serving her that instead. But if yours LOVES canned food, make it even wetter and soupier with added water or broth.
 
2. Put an ice cube in her food: Not only does it add moisture, it’s like a treat – albeit a cold one. But because the cube takes on the food’s flavor, while she’s licking it, she’s getting more of the water she needs. Place several cubes in her water bowl as well if she, like many people, purr-fers her water icy cold.
 
3. Serve her smaller, more frequent meals: Since the very act of eating prompts thirst, if your cat’s not drinking water, eating more often should make her not only need to but actually want water.
 
4. Place water bowls throughout your home: It’s not easy for curious kitties to pass so many appealing sights without stopping to investigate them and – hopefully – sample what they’re offering.
 
5. Location is everything: If your cat’s not drinking water, she may not like her water bowl’s location or it may not be as easily accessible to her as it should be. Take care, as well, to keep her water bowl far away from her litter box. Remember: her litter box is where she potties.
 
6. Refill her water bowl regularly: Cats like FRESH water! Please change her water at least once during the day and to keep it scrupulously clean, wash the bowl thoroughly with soap and water, dry it, refill it, and put it down again at the end of the day.
 
7. Think sink: If your cat’s attracted to running water, take advantage of her fascination and make drinking it a game. Turn on the cold water faucet and let it run for a few minutes several times a day. Incorporate it into your morning and/or evening playtime routine and reward her with effusive praise and some extra playing when she accepts drinking water as one of her regular activities.
 
8. Flavor the water: A cat turning her paws down at drinking “ordinary” water might drink flavored water. Try flavoring your kitty’s water with some chicken broth, the liquid from a tin of tuna or sardines or some clam juice (sold in bottles at supermarkets). Make certain, though, to have at least one bowl of plain, fresh water close by at all times.  
 
9. Use cat fountains: Many fussy felines, once they’re accustomed to it, LOVE drinking from fountains. Not only are they intriguing to a cat because of the continuous movement of the water but the water always stays fresh.
 
10. Use feline-friendly bowls: Cats have highly sensitive whiskers and may find the sensation of their whiskers touching the sides of their water bowls extremely unpleasant. They’ll often drink more water when it’s in large, shallow bowls rather than in small, deep ones.

 by Nomi Berger
 
Curious about the meaning behind YOUR kitty’s tail wag? According to many cat behaviorists, the manner in which your frolicsome feline wags her tail can have several different meanings.
 
Consider then:
 
“The Swish”
 
Playing cats will often swish their tails from side to side before pouncing. On the other paw, the speed and direction with which they swish their tails can also convey their emotions. When they thrash their tails back and forth quickly, it indicates that they’re unhappy and want to be left alone. When they move their tails slowly from left to right, it shows that they’re mildly annoyed.
 
“The Twitch”
 
How often have you witnessed your kitty sitting on a windowsill, concentrating intently on nature’s “TV screen” in the form of a flying bird, a fluttering butterfly or a scampering squirrel when her tail starts to twitch? The set of her ears and eyes and the vocalizations she makes along with this familiar twitch indicates one of two things: she’s maintaining her laser-like focus on what she sees or she’s unduly upset for some reason. In either scenario, her message to you is “leave me alone.”
 
“The Quiver”
 
This is a rapid and tiny wagging movement -- much like a rattlesnake’s but cuter, not to mention safer. When your kitty’s excited to see you, she may approach you with her tail held vertically aloft and only the tip of it making those quick little quivering motions. This warm greeting is often accompanied by purring, happy chirrups or meows, and rubbing her face against your ankles or legs.
 
“The Sleepy Flick”
 
Unlike their canine counterparts who respond immediately when called, our more laid back feline friends seem to favor pondering their response before acting on it. And what better to demonstrate this to us than with a slow, sleepy flick of their tails against the floor. But offer them food? The mere sound of a can being opened or the aroma of something deliciously familiar wafting their way, and no more sleepy flicks for them. All pretense past, this is one “call” they’re more than eager to answer -- promptly.
 
If they’re sleeping, however, and we call out to them, many mischievous kitties prefer to play games. Rather then openly acknowledging us, they’ll reply with a single, subtly dismissive flick of their tail. The message behind this sweet snub: “I can hear you, but I’m pretending to ignore you.”
 
Be flattered! This form of tail wag is, in fact, a sign of your cat’s contentment. She’s letting you know in kitty parlance that she’s comfortable staying asleep in your presence. But then, as every head-over-heels in love feline fancier knows, your precious, precocious puss always has you right where she wants you: fittingly wrapped around her fine, furry paw.

by Nomi Berger
 
The short answer, despite several theories: no one really knows.
 
And yet, consider the following:
 
Safekeeping: The theory given the most credence by animal behaviorists involves a cat’s territorial instinct. They believe cats consider their food and water bowls to be safe places, known only to them. Depositing a prized possession – in this instance, a favorite toy -- in one or other of their bowls is their way of keeping it safe. The rationale behind this paw-ticular theory? A domesticated cat’s wild relatives such as leopards, bobcats and wildcats have been known to store their food in a safe location known as a cache. Because indoor cats don’t have caches, their food and/or water bowls are the purr-fect substitutes in which to hide their own “bounty.”
 
Hunting: There are two theories, both based on the assumption that your cat associates her toys with food or prey. One theory posits that when a toy (everything from rubber mice and moppy balls to catnip squirrels and fuzzy turtles) is dropped into her water bowl, she’s equating this with hunting and may be attempting to drown her prey before devouring it. The second theory suggests that she’s trying to teach YOU to hunt, the way a mother cat teaches her kittens when she brings the prey she’s caught back to them. And because you’re a regular “visitor” to her water bowl, she’s left that toy there for you to find.
 
Playing: Many wild cats feel extremely comfortable in and around water and will often play in it. Similarly, some domesticated cats may drop their toys into their water bowls in order to fish them out -- as their own form of playing.
 
Reliving that happy feeling: For your cat, her food bowl is a happy place, the source of everything good. And since she loves to eat, she undoubtedly associates her food bowl with those happy feelings. It’s theorized, then, that she’s merely bringing objects she likes (one or more toys) to a place she loves (her food bowl).
 
Expediency: Some cats are seldom seen without a toy in their mouths, and they simply drop it into their food or water bowls because they can’t hold onto the toy and eat or drink at the same time.
 
Can you – or should you -- stop your own cat from dropping her toys into her food or water bowl? Some behaviorists say “no”. Why? As peculiar as this particular habit may seem to you, it may, in fact, be instinctive in nature. If so, it may be impossible to try and stop her from doing what nature intended her to do.
 
Even if you did manage to stop her, any resourceful cat would quickly find an alternate safe place for her prized possessions -- such as your sink, bathtub or toilet bowl. Or if she’s the “gifting” kind of kitty, she may generously and lovingly deposit one of her water-logged toys on top of your head in the middle of the night!

by Nomi Berger
 
Scooting (the act of a pet dragging his/her bum along the ground) may be seen more often in dogs, but cats sometimes scoot as well – usually when their rears are itchy or irritated.
 
One of the more common causes of this phenomenon is intestinal parasites, particularly tapeworms. Whereas tapeworms can be seen in your cat’s poop (they look like grains of white rice), some parasites are invisible to the naked eye. Other signs of a parasite infestation include diarrhea or constipation, weight loss and a potbelly.
 
If your cat suffers from allergies – most often environmental -- that cause itchy skin, the itchiness can extend to every area of her body, including her bum. Various environmental allergies include dust and pollen, mold and mites, even fleas.
 
Although cats seem to have fewer anal gland issues than dogs, your cat’s sudden scooting may, in fact, indicate a problem with her anal glands. Anal glands, two small internal sacs positioned on either side of the anus that produce a pungent liquid, should, if they’re working properly, express each time your cat poops and remove any fecal bacteria along with it.
 
Sometimes, though, inflammation keeps this liquid from being expelled. Instead, it builds up inside the sacs where it can become very thick, almost paste like, leading to the sacs being impacted. The result of such extreme discomfort is the sight of your cat scooting along any and all surfaces in an effort to find some relief. If her sacs are impacted, however, and bacteria gets into them, they can become infected and potentially abscess.
 
To learn why your cat is scooting, bring her promptly to the vet for a thorough physical examination that will include a search for signs of parasites, areas of itchy skin and problems with her anal glands. Your vet will likely do a fecal test and possibly a de-worming especially if diarrhea is involved and check for any kind of perianal or vulvar inflammation infection, including the presence of yeast, which can be extremely itchy.
 
In short, treating your cat’s scooting depends on the cause. A thorough de-worming should eliminate any irritating intestinal parasites from her system. The prognosis for recovery from an infection of intestinal parasites is good, with most cats being completely cured within several weeks of treatment.
 
Although allergies may be more complicated to pin down, once the cause has been identified, your vet will be able to prescribe an appropriate treatment such as a topical medication to soothe her itchiness, perhaps even changing the food she eats as well.
 
If her anal glands are impacted or infected, your vet will express the affected sac(s), flushing out the solidified material, infuse the sac(s) with an anti-inflammatory and have you administer antibiotics orally to her in order to kill the remaining bacteria.
 
In most cases of impacted anal glands, the original cause of the condition remains a mystery. Some studies show a connection between a primarily wet or canned food diet and scooting, suggesting that cats suffering from recurring bouts of scooting may need a higher content of dry food or food that contains more fiber or bone meal elements to assist in proper bowel expression.

 by Nomi Berger
 
If you think cats are safe from heartworm disease, think again.
 
Unlike their canine counterparts, cats aren’t typical hosts for heartworms, and while most worms in infected cats don’t reach the adult stage, immature worms can still cause a condition known as HARD (heartworm associated respiratory disease). More importantly, however, infected cats remain undiagnosed longer than infected dogs, while Melarsomine, the drug of choice prescribed to kill adult heartworms in dogs, is toxic for cats.  
 
The miniscule mosquito plays a MAJOR role in the life cycle of the heartworm. Adult heartworms living in infected wildlife animals like foxes, coyotes or wolves produce microscopic baby worms called microfilaria which circulate in their bloodstream. When a mosquito bites an infected animal, it picks up these baby worms which mature into larvae within 10 to 14 days. When the infected mosquito bites a cat, the infective larvae are deposited onto the surface of her skin and enter her body through the wound. It takes approximately 6 months for the larvae to mature into adult heartworms which can live for up to 2 or 3 years inside her.
 
A serious and progressive disease, the earlier it is detected, the better the chances your cat will recover. Signs of heartworm disease range from very subtle to very dramatic. Symptoms can include coughing, asthma-like attacks, periodic vomiting, loss of appetite, or weight loss. Sometimes an infected cat may have difficulty walking, faint, have seizures, or suffer from fluid accumulation in her abdomen. Sadly, in some cases, the first sign of the disease is her sudden collapse or sudden death.
 
Heartworm disease is now found throughout the country, risk factors are impossible to predict, and since infected mosquitoes can come inside, both outdoor and indoor cats are at risk. Because of this, the American Heartworm Society suggests your cat be tested by your vet every year and given a heartworm preventive all year round
 
Your vet will perform a thorough physical examination of your cat, run blood tests, take x-rays, and in some cases, order an ultrasound. If her diagnosis is positive, and with no approved drug therapy available for cats, she can often be helped with good veterinary care and a long-term management plan. Many cats even experience a spontaneous clearing of the heartworms.
 
If she’s not exhibiting any signs of respiratory distress, but worms have been detected in her lungs, your vet may recommend she have chest x-rays every 6 to 12 months. If she’s showing some mild symptoms, corticosteroids such as prednisone or prednisolone will most likely be used because of their potent anti-inflammatory properties, with treatment often continuing until the adult worms have died and are cleared from the lungs -- a two to three year process.
 
If the disease is severe, your vet may recommend your cat be hospitalized in order to provide her with such therapy as intravenous fluids, drugs to treat her lung and heart symptoms and antibiotics coupled with general nursing care. In some cases, surgical removal of the heartworms may be possible.
 
Like healthy cats, any cat with heartworm disease should be given preventives to keep new infections from developing if an infected mosquito bites her again. Whether the preventive you choose is a pill, a spot-on topical medication or an injection, all three work by eliminating the infective larvae and keeping them from maturing into adult worms. For this reason, the preventives must be assiduously administered on schedule -- monthly for pills and topical medications, and every 6 months for injections.

by Nomi Berger
 
While relatively rare, a cat stroke is always alarming.
 
A stroke occurs when the flow of blood to the brain is obstructed, resulting in almost immediate tissue damage and disruption of your cat’s bodily functions. Therefore, recognizing the symptoms, getting a diagnosis and beginning treatment can mean the difference between life and death for your purr-ecious pet.
 
These symptoms include: seizures and/or staggering; obvious signs of pain or extreme anxiety; unconsciousness; refusal to drink for 24 hours or more; walking in circles; head tilt; overall weakness; change in eye movements/uneven pupils; vomiting, and not eating.
 
If your cat exhibits one or more of these signs, bring her to the vet or to the closest emergency clinic right away! Although not proof paws-itive of a stroke, she does require a prompt and thorough examination.
 
Did you know that there are three variations of strokes? A thrombotic stroke is when a blood clot forms in an artery to the brain. An embolic stroke is when a blood clot forms in another location then gets stuck in the part of the bloodstream that supplies blood to the brain. A hemorrhagic stroke is when a blood vessel inside the brain itself leaks.
 
Any abnormality in your cat’s blood flow, namely, the creation of a blood clot or a ruptured blood vessel, is usually indicative of some underlying issue. While the underlying issue may have gone undetected – and unsuspected – for some time, the obstruction itself can manifest itself suddenly. This is the reason your cat may seem healthy one minute and be in dire straits the next.
 
Some main causes of blood clots and/blood vessel ruptures include thyroid issues, kidney issues, diabetes, traumatic injuries, a heart condition, high blood pressure, and brain lesions.
 
To err on the side of caution, the first step in the vet’s assessment of your cat may be the immediate start of oxygen therapy. Then, to confirm whether or not she has, in fact, suffered a stroke, a CT (computerized tomography) scan and/or MRI (magnetic resonance imaging) will be used. She may also have to spend time in the Intensive Care Unit to have her vital signs monitored and any medications – if necessary -- administered. The kinds of medication used depend on the underlying issue that caused the stroke and may include anti-inflammatory medications as well.
 
Once your stricken cat is, hopefully, cleared to go home with you, her ongoing treatment usually involves keeping her hydrated with subcutaneous fluids and keeping her under careful observation. While many cats will return to normal within two weeks of suffering a minor stroke, the chances of her developing secondary epilepsy are greatly increased, and this is something no cat owner wants to hear.
 
But if you’re familiar with the expression “An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure”, you’ll be relieved to know that the best way to help your cat avoid a stroke in the first place is by preventing it.
 
To accomplish this, ensure that she’s always kept in the best shape paws-ible. Feed her the healthiest of diets and keep her weight stable; keep her mentally stimulated and physically active consistently; keep all environmental stressors to a minimum; take her to the vet both for annual medical exams and at the first sign of any changes in her behavior or appearance.

by Nomi Berger
 
Has your cat been drinking a lot more water recently, and having to urinate more frequently? Has she begun losing weight despite being hungrier than usual and wanting to eat all the time?
 
If so, she may have diabetes. The second most common glandular disorder in cats (hypothyroidism is first), diabetes occurs as a result of a problem with insulin, the hormone that controls blood glucose levels. Similar to humans, cats suffer from two forms of diabetes. In Type 1 diabetes, the cat’s pancreas doesn’t make enough insulin. In Type 2 diabetes, the pancreas can make insulin, but its secretion is impaired. An estimated 80 percent of diabetic cats have Type 2 diabetes.
 
Should your cat be exhibiting these four classic symptoms -- increased thirst and water intake, increased urination, appetite gain and weight loss – bring her to the vet immediately.
 
To make a proper diagnosis, your vet will record all of your cat’s clinical signs, perform a physical examination, and collect blood and urine samples. The presence of elevated blood glucose together with excessive glucose in the urine is indicative of diabetes. Treatment will then depend on the severity of her symptoms, the test results, and whether she has any other health issues that could complicate her therapy. Since every cat responds differently to treatment, your cat’s therapy will be designed specifically for her.
 
New long-acting insulin preparations for humans such as glargine (brand name Lantus) and detemir (brand name Levemir) have also proven to be effective in cats, often resolving their diabetes completely. Which cats go into “diabetic remission” depends on their diet, the type of insulin used, how strictly their blood glucose is regulated, how early the treatment is started (the sooner the better), and whether their pancreas is capable of secreting insulin (as in Type 2 diabetes).
 
Diet is a vital part of your diabetic cat’s therapy. Numerous studies have shown that the ideal diet is a high-protein, low-carbohydrate one, with canned food preferred over dry food. There are many prescription diets designed for this purpose and most vets’ offices carry them.
 
Insulin by injection, however, is the mainstay of her therapy. Both human and veterinary insulin preparations are available, and while all of them work well, remission is more likely to be achieved with the above-mentioned long-acting human insulin preparations. The ideal spot for administering these injections is the loose skin between and around her shoulders (your vet or vet tech can demonstrate this for you).
 
Once your cat’s insulin therapy has started, her blood glucose levels must be assessed frequently to determine whether or not the dosage needs adjusting. Too little insulin and her diabetes won’t be controlled. Too much, on the other hand, can cause life-threatening hypoglycemia (low blood glucose). Fortunately, there are now blood glucose monitoring system kits specifically designed for cats (they include a specially calibrated meter, a lancing device, lancets, test strips, user’s guide and carrying case) that allow you to check her levels at home.
 
The small vein that runs around the edge of your cat’s ear is the easiest location to get a blood sample for the test. Your vet can tell you how often to test her, and you’ll be surprised at how well she tolerates it.
 
While “diabetic remission” is what every cat owner hopes for, not every cat will achieve it, and some who do may relapse at a later date. For the great majority of cats, however, diabetes remains a condition without a cure. But when managed effectively, your cherished companion can still live a long and loving life.