by Nomi Berger
 
If yours is a multi-cat household, you may be all too familiar with kitty spats and scraps, squabbles and skirmishes. The origin of these feline fights rests firmly at the paws of the so-called “alpha cat”, the one who automatically seeks the highest spot in your home, demands to be fed first and will, at times, mark her territory.
 
As the other kitties grow, so do their own alpha tendencies, spurring them to challenge the alpha cat’s self-appointed status and claims. In return, the alpha cat will engage any or all of them in active bouts of wrestling and tussling, rolling around and “rabbit kicking.”
 
Fortunately, most battles between cats are mock battles. Careful observation of and familiarity with their body language will enable you to differentiate between kitty playing and kitty fighting. The key indicators are their tails, their ears and their eyes, and where their bodies are in relation to the ground.
 
The first rule of refereeing a feline free-for-all? Never step in between two sparring spitfires. Since they’re focused solely on one another -- not on you – with their stress pheromones at peak levels, you run the risk of being scratched or bitten.
 
Some cat behaviorists suggest making a sudden, loud noise from a concealed corner by either clapping your hands or banging on a pan. This will startle the cats, and in all likelihood, make them separate and scatter. Another tactic is to toss something soft -- a pillow, for example – from a hidden spot to an area slightly removed from the squabble. Once again, this distraction may be sufficient to successfully end their dispute.
 
Others suggest setting a kitchen chair between the two combatants without hurting them. Although this takes patience and a gentle touch, it will startle the two feisty fighters and they will back away from each other. Take advantage of this “opening” and use a broom to guide one of them into another room and close the door.
 
Let some time pass, then slowly enter the room and studiously ignore the banished battler as you place a bowl of food, a bowl of water, and a litter pan on the floor. Then exit swiftly. Check in on her awhile later. Only when she’s grooming herself or calmly eating should you assume it’s safe to approach her.
 
The second rule of refereeing? Never use a spray bottle filled with water as a way of stopping two truly fighting felines. So engrossed are they in their battle that a spritz or a stream of cold water won’t even start to cool them down. It may even have the opposite effect: frightening them and only making matters worse.
 
The third rule of referring? Never shout or scream in an effort to break up a full-blown cat fight. Because cats are highly sensitive creatures and react swiftly to their owners’ stress level, your anxiety and tension will only accelerate, not diminish, their own. Remaining calm in the face of their turbulence tends to work best.
 
Easier said than done? Not necessarily. Practice makes purr-fect.
 

by Nomi Berger
 
Every cat guardian’s worst nightmare is a serious illness or medical emergency and inadequate funds to cover it.
 
With veterinary bills ranging from hundreds to thousands of dollars, what’s a caring but cash-strapped owner to do?
 
If paws-ible, don’t panic. Instead, be prepared. Plan ahead.
 
The easiest first step is to open an “emergency expenses” savings account even BEFORE your chosen companion puts one paw inside your home. Decide on a given amount to be set aside – whether daily or weekly – and build it into your budget. Example: By setting aside only $10 a week, you’ll save $520 a year. Within two years, you’ll have saved enough money to cover most medical procedures. But should your kitty need a sudden and more costly procedure, you’re more likely to receive help from others when they know that YOU’RE paying most of the bill.
 
A second option is purchasing pet insurance. An increasing number of insurance companies now offer specific plans for pets, ranging from the most basic to the most inclusive with monthly premiums to match each plan. Caution: Make certain to “read the fine print” and to learn whether or not the company will work with the vet of your choice.
 
For those unable to either save in advance or purchase pet insurance, being faced with the possibility of a medical bill they can’t pay is devastating. And this, sadly, is one of the reasons so many much-loved pets are euthanized. But there are solutions.
 
1. Speak with your vet and discuss the arrangement of a payment schedule until the bill is paid in full. Many vets do offer payment plans to their regular and trusted clients.
 
2. Contact local animal rescue organizations and ask for the names of any low-cost veterinary clinics they might know.
 
3. Many veterinary schools offer medical services at discounted rates, and if you live near a college or university, contact them to see if they have just such a program.
 
4. If it’s feasible, apply for a line of credit from your bank. There are also reputable companies that offer loans to help cover medical emergencies, including those of pets. (Note: Interest is charged in both cases and rates will vary).
 
5. Ask your family members and friends for help.
 
6. Use one of the more popular online fundraising platforms and start your own fundraiser, bearing in mind that the more people you reach in your own social, work and community circles, and the more original you are in drawing attention to your plight, the greater your chances of success.
 
7. Apply for financial assistance from the specific funds, charities and pet assistance organizations across the country. While their organizations’ budgets are limited and their grants small, your chances of getting help increase if you’re disabled, a senior or a veteran, or are living solely on pensions or on a low, fixed income.

By Nomi Berger
 
Although frightened felines may lash out at a person for a variety of reasons, there ARE advance warning signs before the actual attack: from widely opened eyes and dilated pupils, flattened ears and lashing tails to agitated meows, growls and snarls and hissing, even spitting.
 
As to the WHY’S of this behavior, the following are the most common:
 
Fear Induced Aggression
 
Timid cats may be fearful of almost everything: from perceived threats to sudden movements or sounds. Some may have suffered a traumatic incident in the past that will trigger their fear response now. This form of aggression is also their instinctive reaction to punishment, particularly physical punishment – a warning to frustrated feline fanciers to NEVER punish their pets as a way of changing any unacceptable behaviors.
 
Redirected Aggression
 
Whatever the original trigger, cats incapable of retaliating against the actual source of it (e.g. their instinct to hunt being thwarted by viewing a squirrel outside their window) may, instead, redirect their pent-up aggression at their owners, other cats or other pets in the household.
 
Pain Induced Aggression
 
Cats in pain may also be confused and frightened, lashing out in their distress at anyone trying, with the best of intentions, to comfort them – particularly if their pain isn’t either obvious or visible.
 
Petting Induced Aggression
 
Some cats have a time limit on being petted, going from purring to clawing or biting before their owners can say “ouch!” Whether due to their early socialization with people or their genetic disposition, they become over stimulated and feel threatened when stroked for too long. 
 
Illness Induced Aggression
 
Cats may become aggressive when they’re ill. Perceptive pet parents can “read” their kitties best, and any changes in behavior or any gradual or sudden onset of unprovoked violence should prompt a prompt consultation with their vet. 
 
Stress is quite often the cause of many cats’ behavioral problems  -- including aggression towards people -- and is usually related to changes in their environment. While reactions vary from one cat to another, identifying the root of the problem and then either reducing or removing it may make all the difference in their topsy-turvy world and restore their kitty equilibrium.
 
If, however, matters worsen, it’s essential for concerned cat guardians to consult a professional: an expert in cat behavior, preferably one recommended by their trusted vet. Working together, the vet may recommend drug therapy as a means of dealing with their aggressive cat (even when illness isn’t the issue), in conjunction with the behavioral treatment program designed by the behaviorist.

by Nomi Berger
 
Inquiring minds want to know: What is spraying and how do you keep your place smelling springtime fresh?
 
Quite simply, spraying is when your kitty leaves a small amount of urine on any surface in your home. Not always noticeable to the naked eye, these tiny spots are certainly detectable by their odor. Cat urine is extremely potent, and after repeated sprayings can travel deep into your carpets, upholstery or bedding, even penetrating hardwood floors.
 
Although spraying is most often associated with intact males, ALL cats can spray, and it’s mainly because they’re trying to “mark” their territory. It’s also their way of dealing with stress. Cats are creatures of habit and many react badly to even the slightest change in their environment -- a new pet or a baby in the family, a cat guardian’s abrupt absence, a strange cat in the backyard, or environmental factors people simply don’t notice. Because they feel anxious, they attempt to relieve that anxiety by leaving behind their scent as their non-verbal way of meowing, “I’m feeling stressed.”
 
Medical problems, such as urinary tract infections or blockages, may also be the culprits, and any new or suspicious behavior on the part of your kitty should immediately be brought to the attention of your vet.
 
As for cleaning up after your kitty’s spraying, some experts suggest the following:
 
1) Locate the stains. Often the most difficult part of the process due to the small size of each stain, darken every room in your home, one by one, and use a black light (usually found in pet supply stores) to find all of the offending spots.
 
2) Spray each stain with an enzymatic cleaner. Using biological enzymes, these specially formulated cleaners work to break down the odor-causing phenomes in your cat’s urine and help to eliminate the smell altogether.
 
3) Use a vinegar solution. Once most of the urine from each stain has been cleaned, apply a solution of half-vinegar, half-water to the area. The vinegar will further mask any remaining odor and help prevent future spraying in the same spot.
 
4) Apply baking soda. Sprinkle baking soda on each affected area to draw out any remaining moisture and/or urine that’s soaked deep into the fibers of your carpets or furniture.
 
5) Vacuum each treated spot. Wait about 15 minutes, then use a wet vac to vacuum everything up. If, however, you don’t have a wet vac, allow the baking soda to sit for a day or two before vacuuming. The baking soda will absorb any residual odors.