by Nomi Berger
 
Nothing is more contenting than the sight of relaxed and happy cats, “making biscuits,” purring, and often drooling while their loving owners pet, pet and pet them.
 
But sometimes their drooling, especially if it’s excessive, can be concerning. Below are some common causes for such heavy drooling.
 
Dental issues: Conditions such as gingivitis, tartar buildup and tooth abscesses can cause cats great discomfort, leading to drooling. These conditions may also be accompanied by bad breath, difficulty eating or visible plaque on their teeth.
 
Emotional stress: Cats experiencing emotional stress will often drool excessively. Stressful situations such as loud noises like fireworks and/or thunderstorms, the addition of a new family pet and moving into a new home are some of the most common triggers.
 
Illnesses and infections: Among the culprits responsible for excessive drooling are illnesses affecting their upper respiratory system, feline calicivirus, bacterial infections, rabies and gastrointestinal problems, including inflammatory bowel disease or liver disorders – all of which may be accompanied by other symptoms such as coughing, sneezing, lethargy or vomiting.
 
Nausea: Nausea, whether as the result of changes in diet, “dietary indiscretions” or motion sickness, can often cause cats to drool. Usually a reflex to the sensation of feeling sick, it’s often accompanied by decreased appetite, lethargy and/or lip licking.
 
Injuries or trauma: Injuries to the mouth or facial area in general, whether from a fall, a fight with another cat or an accident, can also cause drooling. Because these kinds of injuries may not always be visible immediately, it’s important to watch for other signs of distress and/or pain.
 
Unpleasant tastes or ingested toxins: Cats may drool in response to ingesting something either distasteful or toxic such as certain plants like lilies, household cleaners or medications – their way of trying NOT to swallow these harmful substances.
 
If any of the above sound frighteningly familiar, an immediate visit to the vet with your kitty is vital – both for an accurate diagnosis and the appropriate treatment. Your vet will give your cat a thorough physical examination and check her mouth for any dental issues, signs of injury and/or any foreign objects. Depending on these initial findings, diagnostic tests may be required, among them, blood tests to check for an infection, x-rays or an ultrasound for a closer look at her internal organs, and specific tests for infectious diseases. A detailed dental examination may also be needed, usually requiring sedation to allow for a complete evaluation of her teeth and gums.
 
Treatment options: If dental problems are “at the root” of your cat’s drooling, her treatment will, in all likelihood, involve a deep dental cleaning, tooth extractions if required, and/or medication for infections and/or pain relief.
 
For stress-induced drooling, environmental modifications may need to be addressed, and if that doesn’t work, your cat may be prescribed pheromone therapy, mild sedatives and/or anti-anxiety medications.
 
For systemic illnesses or infections, her treatment may include antibiotics, anti-inflammatory medications and/or therapies targeting the direct source of the problem.
 
If nausea is the underlying cause of her drooling, dietary changes, anti-nausea medication and/or other supportive care may be recommended.
 
In cases of trauma or injury, treatment can range from pain management to surgery, depending on the source and severity of either one.
 
If the cause is due to having ingested toxins, treatment will focus on removing them from her body, which might involve inducing vomiting, administering activated charcoal or providing supportive care like IV fluids.
 
To ensure that your cherished feline companion is returned as quickly as possible to her normal self, ongoing contact with your vet, adhering meticulously to a post-treatment plan and regular follow-ups are absolutely essential.

by Nomi Berger
 
Anisocoria is a condition in which a cat’s pupils are different sizes. In some instances, the abnormal pupil may be the smaller one and in other instances, the abnormal pupil may be the larger one.
 
This condition is typically caused by one of the following:
• Congenital defect of the iris, when the tissue fails to develop properly.
• Corneal injury such as an ulcer.
• Brain injury or injury to the nerves running to the affected eye, such as Horner’s syndrome.
• Glaucoma, a disease marked by increased pressure within the eye, resulting in a dilated pupil.
• Uveitis, an inflammation of the eye’s interior, causing that eye’s pupil to be constricted.
• Scar tissue formation between the iris and lens that may develop following uveitis.
• Retinal disease.
• Iris atrophy, a decrease in the tissue within the iris, usually associated with aging.
• Cancer within the affected eye.
• Spastic pupil syndrome that may be associated with FeLV (feline leukemia virus).
• Other infectious diseases such as FIV (feline immunodeficiency virus) or toxoplasmosis.
 
Besides a discrepancy in pupil size, and depending on the reason for it, the white part (sclera) of the affected eye may be red, the cornea (the outer surface of the eye) may be cloudy or bluish, there may be a discharge from the eye, the eyelid on the affected eye may droop, the cat may be squinting or rubbing her eye, the third eyelid may be raised, or she may be less active than usual.
 
Should you notice any of the above in YOUR kitty, seek veterinary care immediately to reduce the risk of her vision being permanently affected. Your vet will perform a thorough physical examination of your cat, including a detailed examination of the structures of the eye in question. Depending on these findings, your vet may then measure the tear production and intraocular pressure for both eyes; stain the cornea of the affected eye with fluorescein dye to look for underlying corneal injuries or ulcers and obtain conjunctival scrapings or biopsies to be sent to a diagnostic lab for specialized testing. Blood tests may also be performed to determine if your kitty has a systemic condition such as FeLV or FIV. In some cases, your vet may refer you to a veterinary ophthalmologist for even further diagnostic testing.
 
Because treating anisocoria depends entirely on the condition causing it, your vet will discuss the options most appropriate for your cat, with the prognosis for a full recovery also dependent upon the condition causing it. In some cases, your cat may require long-term medication to control that condition. Sadly, however, if your cat should go blind as a result of her condition, it’s unlikely that her blindness can be reversed.

by Nomi Berger
 
What purr-cisely is this condition called alopecia?
 
Alopecia is the partial or total lack of hair in areas where a cat’s hair is normally present.
 
Hair loss can be either congenital or acquired. Congenital hair loss is caused by the failure of hair follicles to develop and is obvious shortly after a kitten is born. In some cases, kittens can be born with a normal coat only to suffer local or generalized hair loss as young adults.
 
Acquired hair loss, on the other hand, occurs in cats born with normal hair coats, only to lose it because of a disease that destroys the hair follicles or shafts or interferes with the hair’s growth. These diseases range from inflammation in a cat’s bladder, kidneys, gastrointestinal system or anal sacs, hyperthyroidism, recent metabolic stress, such as pregnancy, nursing or fever to cancers, including cutaneous lymphoma, thymoma, pancreatic carcinoma and bile duct carcinoma. While acquired hair loss can be inflammatory or noninflammatory, the most common cause of alopecia is an inflammatory disorder.
 
Capable of damaging or destroying a cat’s hair shafts and/or follicles and causing itching or pain are bacterial, fungal or parasitic infections and allergies such as flea allergy dermatitis; deep skin infections; skin trauma such as burns or radiation; and, on rare occasions, iodine, mercury or thallium poisoning. Culprits that either slow or inhibit the growth of hair follicles include nutritional deficiencies -- especially protein deficiencies -- or hormonal imbalances. Significant hair loss is also quite a common occurrence in cats recovering from respiratory infections. Not to mention friction from poorly fitted halters or collars and excessive grooming, so often caused by stress.
 
Congenital hair loss can either be symmetrical in nature or localized to one region on a cat’s head and body and isn’t usually accompanied by inflammation. Signs of acquired hair loss are varied and include change in a cat’s skin color, excessive shedding, inflammation, itching and redness or thickening of the skin. In some cases, secondary skin conditions may develop such as an infection or fluid discharge. Alopecia caused by hormonal disorders isn’t usually itchy at first unless a secondary skin infection is involved.
 
Should your kitty be suffering from alopecia, bring her to the vet who will take a detailed history and perform a thorough physical examination of her skin. But for a more precise diagnosis, your vet will, in all likelihood, order lab tests to check for bacterial, fungal or yeast infections, do a flea combing, collect skin cultures, and do skin scrapes to look for parasites. If your vet suspects a hormonal problem, blood and urine tests will be ordered. A skin biopsy may be performed, and an elimination diet trial recommended using prescription food for eight to 12 weeks to test for food allergies.
 
Because a successful treatment plan depends on a specific diagnosis and may take some time, your vet will either provide or prescribe medication(s) to relieve some of your kitty’s discomfort, including any itching and scratching. Once the underlying cause of her alopecia is identified and appropriate treatment pursued, her hair will probably grow back. But it’s essential that you work closely with your vet, follow instructions and schedule regular follow-up visits to achieve the best outcome paws-ible.

by Nomi Berger
 
From body language to vocalization, cats use various signs and signals to communicate – with other cats and with humans. And although we may not be able to detect them, pheromones rank highest on that list. What, then, ARE pheromones?
 
Pheromones are a form of chemical communication that felines employ when engaging with each other, with the world around them and with their pet parents. The “messages” they send are released from special glands located throughout their bodies, and they produce a wide assortment of pheromones that influence many of their behaviors, emotions and interactions. Different pheromones send different “messages” or signals to other cats, both indoors and outdoors cats, which all cats, young and old, will understand.
 
Many of the glands that release pheromones are located on cats’ faces -- on their foreheads, lower ears, cheeks, chins and around their mouths. They’re also located in their paw pads to help them “mark” their territory when they scratch and/or knead, and around the nipples of females. To share or deposit these messages, your own cat will engage in a range of behaviors – the most positive of which is rubbing her head on you, on various household objects’ surfaces, even doorways, throughout your home, and bumping heads with you and, when applicable, with her feline friends. These are clear signals that your kitty is happy, relaxed and content in her environment, and that by putting her scent on them and on you, she’s marked them and you as being “safe.”
 
Pheromones are used, among other things, to help mother cats and kittens bond, identify and be in harmony with each other, to self-soothe as well as to signal discomfort, stress or fear. All cats use a special organ called the vomeronasal organ (VNO) that’s located in an opening on the roof of their mouths to recognize pheromone messages throughout their environment. When detecting them, your cat will open her mouth slightly and pull back her lips, exposing the roof of her mouth. If you witness your cat standing still with a strange expression on her face, she’s clearly detecting and receiving a single “message” or more.
 
On the other hand, many cats may suffer from anxiety or stress caused by changes in their environment such as adding a new cat to your household, decorating, moving and visiting the vet. Their anxiety will most commonly manifest itself in such negative behaviors as biting, excessive scratching, hiding, refusing to eat, urinating and defecating outside of the litter box, fighting with the other kitties and/or spraying. Should your kitty exhibit any of these behaviors, try using artificial pheromone products.
 
The most popular ones are plug-in diffusers and sprays. Cat calming plug-in diffusers and sprays can help with general anxiety in individual cats and promote harmony in multi-cat households by emitting a synthetic version of the feline facial pheromones given off by mother cats while nursing their kittens.
 
In instances where such measures have little to no effect, animal behaviorists encourage worried pet parents to contact their vets. Hopefully, with an appropriate behavior modification program, including positive reinforcement for appropriate behavior and desensitization along with counter-conditioning, these ‘fraidy cats can overcome their fears or anxiety regarding certain situations and live calmer, happier lives.

by Nomi Berger
 
When cats are constipated, it not only makes them uncomfortable and restless, it could be a sign of a serious underlying medical problem.
 
Cats, on average, move their bowels about every 24 to 36 hours. If yours doesn’t pass one as frequently, strains when attempting to poop or doesn’t leave any poop in her litter box, she may be constipated. While most cases of constipation are mild enough to be treated at home, it’s wisest to contact your vet if yours hasn’t moved her bowels in more than 48 to 72 hours.
 
If you’re unfamiliar with the many possible causes of feline constipation, consider the following:

· Insufficient fiber in their diet
· Dry food 
· Stress or anxiety
· A bowel obstruction due to bones or string blocking it
· Excessive grooming (this results in extra hair inside their digestive tracts)
· Arthritis pain
· Pain or spinal issues
· Kidney problems
· Feline megacolon (this occurs when a cat’s colon gets so large that the muscles are unable to squeeze, leading to a buildup of dry, hard stool)
· Allergies
· Nerve problems
· Ruptured or impacted anal sacs (both can cause pain when defecating)
· Narrow places, tumors or other problems within the colon
· Chronic conditions like hyperthyroidism, diabetes or kidney disease
· Inflammatory bowel disease
· Perianal disease
· Cancer
 
As to the various signs and symptoms of cat constipation:
· Inability to defecate at all
· Straining or crying when inside the litter box
· Avoiding the litter box
· Going into and leaving the litter box numerous times without pooping
Any one of these behaviors merits an immediate call to your vet since your cat may be suffering from a serious urinary tract problem.
 
And because constipation can be a sign of other underlying health issues, you may notice that your kitty is exhibiting one or more of these symptoms:
· Decreased appetite
· Drinking more or less water
· Urinating more
· Difficulty jumping up
· Loss of muscle
· Hiding
· Walking stiffly
· Weight loss
· Nausea
· Vomiting
 
In short, the reason(s) for your kitty’s severe constipation must first be properly diagnosed, then promptly treated to decrease the risk of permanent damage due to prolonged distension of her colon.
 
If, however, your kitty’s constipation is both infrequent and mild enough to be treated at home, consider the following suggestions:
· Help her maintain a healthy weight
· Minimize her stress and anxiety
· Provide her with probiotics
· Switch to a hypoallergenic diet, one with lamb or chicken and special, limited ingredients to reduce any intestinal inflammation
· Try fiber-rich foods, a teaspoon of canned, pureed pumpkin once or twice daily, or ginger as natural remedies
· Increase her exercise to both help her lose weight and keep her active, thereby reducing stress and promoting normal movement within her intestines
· Use over-the-counter laxatives (before doing so, consult your vet since they may worsen symptoms in cats with underlying or chronic diseases) *
· Keep track of how often your cat poops in her litter box and the consistency of her stool at least twice a week initially, then every week or every two weeks thereafter if all is well.

by Nomi Berger
 
Does this sound familiar? You’re tenderly petting or gently playing with your favorite feline when she suddenly becomes hyperactive or lashes out at you by biting and/or scratching. According to veterinary behaviorists, this erratic and unpredictable behavior is known as “overstimulation.”
 
Whether your overstimulated kitty is acting aggressively or fearfully, it’s a psychological response to her being overwhelmed by some external factor. Examples: excessive touching and/or handling, sudden changes at home, from a recent move or a new pet to household construction. Being overstimulated may even cause her to overreact to seemingly “normal” occurrences such as a familiar family member approaching her or the customary noises emanating from your household appliances. Because an overstimulated cat runs the risk of injuring herself by slamming into furniture or knocking over objects, it’s essential to recognize the earliest warning signs, prevent the situation from escalating, and help her return to a calm state of mind.
 
While any cat can be overstimulated, it’s more likely to affect those not receiving adequate mental enrichment or exercise and those struggling with stress and anxiety -- both of which lower the threshold for them to become overstimulated. Besides the “triggers” mentioned before, others include bright and/or flashing lights, loud noises such as thunderstorms, fireworks, dogs barking and vacuum cleaners, overly intense play and ingesting catnip or silvervine.
 
The signs of an overstimulated cat include dilated pupils, fur standing on end, hiding, hissing, tense body posture and tucked tail. Overstimulation can, besides biting and scratching, also result in such aggressive behaviors as frenetic random activity periods (FRAPs), commonly known as “zoomies,” growling, pouncing and chasing, swiping, and a tail that swishes back and forth.
 
When your cat is overstimulated, promptly remove or reduce whatever potential causes that you can control: ending your petting and/or playing session, dimming the lights, turning off the vaccum cleaner and so on. Place her in a quiet, private location complete with food and water bowls, perches, a litter box and a bed, and give her time to decompress. This can range from several minutes to several hours, so please, please be patient with her.
 
To keep your kitty from becoming overstimulated again, you must address the underlying causes behind it. If excessive petting or exuberant playing seems to be the culprit, pet her for as long as she’s comfortable and shorten your play sessions. If the sound of a vacuum cleaner upsets her, place her in a quiet and confined area while you’re using it. If catnip or silvervine overstimulate her, reduce or eliminate it completely.
 
And last but not least, to prevent your cat from becoming bored, the second “trigger” for overstimulation, make certain that she has an assortment of mentally enriching toys to play with on her own during the day such as puzzles and food dispensers.

by Nomi Berger
 
Have YOUR favorite felines suddenly developed a fondness for eating their cat litter? If so, consider the various possible reasons for this behavior.
 
Pica: Pica is a condition where cats either chew on or eat such items as cardboard, plants, soil, wood and yes, even cat litter. While pica can be a behavioral problem, it can also be caused by medical conditions like endocrine diseases, gastrointestinal diseases and parasitic infections.
 
Dietary Deficiency: Cats may feast on their cat litter as a way of “compensating” for essential nutrients that their daily diet lacks. Consult with your vet to ensure that your cats are not only eating high-quality cat food, but that they’re also eating appropriate portions.
 
Anemia: Often related to nutrient deficiencies, particularly iron, some anemic cats might start eating their cat litter. Riboflavin, vitamin B12 and niacin deficiencies can also cause anemia. Other signs of this condition include lethargy, little stamina and pale gums.
 
Curiosity: Being naturally curious, some cats might decide to both play with and sample their cat litter. Why? They might enjoy the feel of its texture and assume it’s a texture worth tasting – several times before they’ve satisfied their curiosity and lose interest.
 
Flavor: Some cats may enjoy the flavor of their cat litter a little too much! This happens when it’s made with such natural materials as cornhusks, grass and/or wheat. Switch to a brand of cat litter made with different materials and provide your cats with cat grass as a safe alternative.
 
Boredom: Bored or anxious cats might start eating their cat litter as a way of “coping” with these negative feelings. The solution is to ensure they get enough exercise and playtime: one-on-one playtime with you coupled with such mentally stimulating items as treat dispenser toys.
 
Coprophagia: This condition causes cats to eat their own feces. Although cats with coprophagia appear to be eating their cat litter, they’re actually eating their poop. Since coprophagia can be the sign of an underlying health condition such as colitis, dementia or malnutrition, it’s essential that your cat be thoroughly examined by your vet.
 
Hyperthyroidism: The most common endocrine disease in cats and most prevalent in older ones, hyperthyroidism (high levels of thyroid hormone) can increase their appetite and metabolism, resulting in them eating their cat litter. Other symptoms of hyperthyroidism are drinking more water than usual, poor body condition, weight loss and an enlarged thyroid gland.
 
Again, only your veterinarian can, by a through physical examination combined with specific diagnostic tests, find the reason behind your cat’s behavior. Once a diagnosis has been made, you’ll be provided with a treatment plan to help restore your cat to good health. In most cases, cats will stop feasting on cat litter once they’re better.

by Nomi Berger
 
Are you taken aback by the sight of your cats showing you their butts? Although this behavior may seem shocking – even inappropriate – to you, it’s actually extremely common when your cats feel comfortable around you.
 
Much like their canine counterparts, cats often show other cats their butts whenever they greet one another. Why? The glands located near their butts contain essential scent “information.” And felines with relaxed, loose bodies and their tails pointing straight up indicate that they’re friendly.
 
Cats often display their affection for their fellow felines by rubbing their bodies against each other, beginning with their heads and ending with their tails. Your cats will also rub against you if they like or love you, and since, once again, they’ll begin with their heads, they’ll, quite naturally, end with their butts facing you.
 
Cats show you their butts to reassure you that they’re not a threat, that they mean you no harm, and have no intention of attacking you. This is in direct contrast to agitated or aggressive cats. Why? These cats won’t turn their backs to you. Their posture will be stiff and their hair will be raised, making them look larger. Some may crouch instead and flatten their ears, while others may vocalize their agitation by growling or yowling.
 
Being observant and watchful creatures, cats won’t turn their backs on people they’re leery of or don’t trust. Therefore, if your cats’ butts are facing you while they’re either lounging or sleeping, it’s a clear – and welcome -- sign that they truly trust you.
 
Experts at attracting their owners’ attention, contented cats will show you their butts as their way of “asking for” a much-appreciated and much-enjoyed scratch above their tails. Pair that with an especially strong and positive response on your part, such as a loud laugh, and they’ll learn that showing you their butts is an effective way to get your attention. If, on the other hand, you’d prefer that they didn’t persist in this behavior, do NOT reward it with either a scratch or a laugh. As an added deterrent, redirect your cats’ focus by simply walking away or by distracting them with one of their favorite toys.
 

By Nomi Berger
 
Has your favorite feline lost her usual voice of late? Has she been sounding somewhat hoarse? If her “meow” is now more of a squeak, a scratchy rasp, or, worse still, total silence, the reason could be laryngitis.
 
A cat’s larynx or “voice box” enables her to vocalize, and should some underlying condition affect her larynx, it will, of course, impact her ability to “meow” normally. Laryngitis is often caused by diseases such as upper respiratory infections (URI’s or “cat colds”), calicivirus or rhinotracheitis. There are also other conditions that can cause her sudden voice loss, including: inhaled irritants (e.g. dust and/or smoke), a blockage in her larynx, an object lodged in her throat, paralysis of a laryngeal nerve, hyperthyroidism, a growth in her throat, eosinophilic granuloma complex and cancer of the throat.
 
Besides “losing her voice,” some of the symptoms she may also exhibit include: a dry, harsh cough that may seem painful, noisy breathing, a lowered head when standing, an open mouth, difficulty swallowing, high-pitched or raspy breathing, an increased or obvious effort to breathe and noticeably bad breath.
 
Should a virus or “cat cold” be the culprit, you may also notice that your cat has watery eyes, a discharge from her eyes, a runny nose, sneezing, a loss of appetite and a lack of energy.
 
Should your cat exhibit any of the above-mentioned symptoms, please bring her to your vet for a thorough examination, diagnosis and, ultimately, a treatment plan. Bear in mind, though, that a sore throat can also cause breathing difficulties and the inability to eat -- both of which still require immediate vet care.
 
If, for example, your vet detects a buildup of fluid in your cat’s larynx, a diuretic may be prescribed for her. If she’s showing visible signs of pain, your vet may prescribe a mild painkiller to help ease her discomfort. If there’s a foreign body lodged in her throat, surgery may or may not be required to remove it. Then, once the object is removed, she should be able to merrily “meow meow meow” again. If her laryngitis is caused by eosinophilic granuloma complex, your cat may be treated for parasites since this condition is often an exaggerated immune response to insect bites. Corticosteroids or steroids may also be prescribed for her.
 
Increasing the moisture in your home through the use of a humidifier or a vaporizer is one of the best ways to help your cat feel more comfortable as she recovers from laryngitis, whatever the cause. Gently clean away any eye or nasal discharge from her face using a warm, damp cloth throughout the day. Cleanse and soothe her watery eyes by applying a saline solution with gauze pads to them, especially if her condition is the result of a “cat cold.”
 
Consider boosting her immune system both by improving her diet and by adding various, specific supplements to it – again, following the recommendations of your vet.

by Nomi Berger
 
The unpleasant smell of cat spray is far too familiar to far too many cat owners! Why? Because their kitties all too often urinate outside their litter boxes whenever they feel either ill, stressed or threatened.
 
Not only does the odious odor linger, here, there and everywhere in your home, it’s especially challenging to eliminate. Sound – or smell – familiar? If so, consider some of the following suggestions to help get rid of the scent of your own kitty’s spray easily and effectively.
 
Purchase a blacklight: Cats re-spray in places bearing the smell of their urine -- around doors or windows if there’s an outside stressor or on any new, unfamiliar items. After tracing the odor to one particular room, use the blacklight to pinpoint the spray (the phosphorus in dried urine will make it glow neon green or yellow under UV light) by darkening the room and sweeping the light over the floor, baseboards and walls in search of spray patterns. You might even have to look inside closets, behind furniture and, yes, among piles of clothes! Once you locate the spray pattern, mark its perimeter so that you’ll know precisely where to clean.
 
Use an enzyme cleaner: Unlike many cleaners that simply mask the scent, active enzymes in this cleaner break down the compounds causing the odor. By eliminating the smell completely, it keeps your kitty from picking up the scent again and leading her to re-spray that area. Shake the bottle, saturate the spot, and let it sit for between 10 and 15 minutes, allowing the smell to slowly dissipate. More severe stains, however, will require several applications before all of the urine is removed.
 
Sprinkle baking soda on the stain: While it doesn’t clean fresh stains completely, it’s a simple remedy for removing the smell. Use paper towels to soak up as much urine as possible, sprinkle baking soda over the spot and leave it there for 30 minutes or until the area’s dry. Once it’s odor-free, suck up the baking soda using a wet-dry vac with a HEPA filter since standard vacuums may be damaged by the baking soda’s fine powder.
 
Try a mixture of vinegar and water: As a quick fix for fresh urine on walls, hardwood floors and/or carpets, mix one part distilled white vinegar with one part water in a spray bottle. Blot the offending stain(s) with paper towels to remove as much moisture as possible and saturate the stain(s) with the prepared mixture. Wait a few minutes, blot the area thoroughly with more paper towels and allow it to air dry.
 
Set up a “spray station”: If your cat stubbornly “insists” on spraying, use two litter boxes, setting one inside the other at a 90-degree angle, thereby creating an L shape. Fill the bottom box with litter and put the vertical section against the wall where your cat sprays. As she grows accustomed to using this makeshift “station,” you can gradually move it to a more discreet area of your home. While it may not resolve the issue, it will make cleaning up after her easier.