by Nomi Berger
 
Cats who appear to eat better in the company of people are commonly referred to as “affection eaters.”
 
Why, you may wonder? If so, paw-lease consider the five reasons below.
Their instinct for safety: Our domesticated cats’ wild ancestors always ate in groups as a way of protecting themselves from predators. Your own cat may feel that same sense of vulnerability when she eats and is seeking out your presence to reassure and protect her, thereby enabling her to feel safer.

Learned behavior: If your cat was either hand-fed or given constant attention as a kitten while eating, she may have understandably grown accustomed to having you nearby at mealtimes.

Social bonding: Your cat may not only enjoy your company, she may see you as her most trusted companion, making mealtime the purr-fect time for you to spend together.

Need for encouragement: Your cat may be one of those who insists on being petted while she eats or needs further encouragement to eat such as hearing her kibble dish rattle, having her food brought to her or even being spoon fed.

Fear: If she’s new to your household, your cat may, reasonably and naturally, be reacting to the loss of her previous home and/or human companions, much the way stressful situations can make people lose their appetite.
 
Help your cat adjust and eat comfortably by following the suggestions below.

If your cat is indeed new to your household, provide her with a room of her own for several days. This “safe” space should have a litter box at one end of the room and food, water, play toys and a cosy bed as far from the litter box as possible. Visit your cat at regular intervals, sit quietly on the floor, and when she feels relaxed enough to come to you, respond by speaking softly to her and gently petting her.

Not only are these regular visits and displays of affection vital for you both to bond, interactive playtime is the next step in ensuring that your cat relaxes even more. Why? Exercise has stress-reducing properties for cats just as it does for people.
Once she’s safely incorporated into your life, carefully monitor her eating. Always feed her a measured amount of food on a schedule, so that you can tell if and how much she’s eating.

Make certain that her food is always fresh and never stale: this can contribute to picky eating. Discard all uneaten food in between meals and thoroughly wash her food bowl every day.

Some cats don’t like deep or narrow bowls because they tend to touch or press against their whiskers. A shallow bowl or plate is best.

Some cats prefer food that is “served” at room temperature or slightly warmed. Yours will let you know soon enough!
If your cat isn’t eating well or isn’t eating at all, please contact your veterinarian immediately.

For the most part, though, your “affection eater” will thrive once she settles into your home -- thanks to your patient understanding, loving attention and a reassuring routine.

by Nomi Berger
 
Although meat-based protein forms the foundation of their diet, superfoods’ many benefits include boosting cats’ energy levels, improving their digestion, strengthening their immune systems, supporting their joints and enhancing their coats.
 
Consider, then, these ten superfoods.
 
1. Salmon: Salmon is an excellent source of omega-3 fatty acids, known for their anti-inflammatory properties. They promote skin health, improve the coat’s shine and support heart and joint health, making salmon especially beneficial for older cats or those with arthritis. Serve ONLY cooked boneless salmon to your cat.
 
2. Pumpkin: Pumpkin is rich in dietary fiber, which is excellent for regulating digestion. It also contains vitamin A, which supports healthy vision, and antioxidants that help fight off free radicals. Use only PLAIN cooked pumpkin or canned pumpkin puree and mix it into your cat’s food.
 
3. Blueberries: Blueberries contain the antioxidants, vitamins C and K. They support urinary tract health, boost immune system function and improve cognitive function, particularly in older cats. Use thoroughly washed small, mashed blueberries as a treat or mix them into your cat’s food.
 
4. Eggs: Eggs are rich in protein and essential amino acids that maintain strong muscles and tissues. They also contain essential fatty acids, vitamins B2, B6 and B12, and biotin, which support healthy skin and shiny coats. Serve only COOKED eggs to your cat.
 
5. Spinach: Spinach is high in vitamins A, C and K, minerals, iron and magnesium. It also contains antioxidants and anti-inflammatory properties, beneficial to cats with kidney disease, while supporting heart and immune health and vision. Lightly steam the spinach and feed it in moderation to your cat.
 
6. Chicken Liver: Chicken liver contains vitamins A and B, iron, and folate, which supports healthy blood cells, vision, immune function and overall vitality. But, due to its high vitamin A content, cooked chicken liver should only be fed occasionally in small portions, either mixed into your cat’s food or as a treat.
 
7. Coconut Oil: Coconut oil excels as a source of healthy fats, especially medium-chain triglycerides, which provide a quick energy boost, improve digestion, promote shiny coats, help with dry or itchy skin and help control hairballs. Begin by mixing a small amount of coconut oil into your cat’s food and monitor her for any digestive issues since some cats don’t tolerate it well.
 
8. Sardines: Sardines, a natural source of omega-3 fatty acids, are also rich in proteins, calcium and vitamins D and B12, which support bone, heart, joint and brain health and help increase energy production. After checking carefully for bones, serve your cat ONLY sardines packed in water (not oil or brine), without any added salt.
 
9. Sweet Potatoes: Sweet potatoes are rich in dietary fiber, which helps regulate digestion and in beta-carotene, which is converted into vitamin A to support healthy vision. They also contain vitamins and antioxidants that can help boost the immune system. Cook the sweet potatoes thoroughly and mash them before serving them to your cat.
 
10. Kale: Kale contains vitamins A, C and K, calcium, copper, potassium and iron. It also contains antioxidants that protect against cell damage and maintain healthy bones and muscles, and fiber that helps digestion, while its anti-inflammatory properties can be beneficial for cats with arthritis or other inflammatory conditions. Lightly steam or cook the kale before serving it to your cat.
 
Superfoods, however, should only comprise a small portion of your cat’s diet. And please consult with your vet first to ensure that any new food is both safe and suitable for her specific needs.

by Nomi Berger
 
Felines are famous for being fastidious. They not only groom themselves regularly, they have very specific demands regarding their litter boxes. And yet, some cats develop the perplexing habit of playing with their poop.
 
Why, you wonder? Consider these paws-ible reasons:
 
They’re bored: Some cats will play with their poop as if it’s a toy. Born of sheer boredom, they behave this way either because they don’t have enough toys or because they aren’t interacting satisfyingly with their owners or the other kitty members of their household. Purchase more toys for your cats to play with on their own and keep them actively engaged more often by using interactive toys together. The more play time they get, the less likely they are to be bored.
 
Their litter box is dirty: Scrupulously clean themselves, cats count on their owners to keep their litter box equally clean. Pick up all solids whenever you see them and scoop up all wet, clumped litter every day. Wash the litter box thoroughly each week to rid it of any crusted litter or extraneous litter contents. Not only will this satisfy your cats’ need for cleanliness, it will keep them from using their poop as a plaything.
 
Their litter box (and/or litter) isn’t right: Contented cats are less likely to either make a mess or play with their poop. First, this means ensuring their litter box is large enough: it should be one and a half times the length of the cat. Second, this means choosing a litter that your cats like. With various types of litter available, finding one that wins a paw’s up of approval from them is essential.
 
Their litter box is in the wrong position: In a multi-cat household, you need one litter box per cat, plus one, suitably positioned to ensure that your cats not only use them but use them appropriately. Ideally, they should be placed in quiet areas with at least one side against a wall so that your cats don’t feel “exposed.” Experiment by moving the litter boxes around, making certain to permit your cats easy access to them in order to prevent accidents outside the boxes.
 
They like the smell: Your cats may be playing with their poop because they find the smell quite pleasing. Perhaps it’s some protein or other nutrients they detect, leading them to sniff and investigate the source of that scent. While sniffing their poop may be mildly acceptable, never encourage or allow your cats to actually play with their poop.

by Nomi Berger
 
Are you familiar with the sight of your favorite felines perched near a window and … chirping? Not meowing, but chirping at a bird or birds? Have you ever wondered why they’re chirping? If so, consider these five paws-ible explanations for their behavior.
 
1. They’re mimicking the birds: Being natural-born hunters, it’s plausible that their chirping is a form of imitation or mimicking. This trickery was used both by their ancestors and by large cats in the wild to entice their prey into coming closer. Despite the fact that your kitties can’t capture the birds they see outside, their instincts allow them to feel as if they themselves are indeed “on the hunt.”
 
2. They’re extremely excited: What’s more exhilarating than chasing after a toy bird dangling at the end of a wand toy? Seeing a real bird with real feathers! It’s tantalizing enough to figuratively make their mouth water! Spotting a bird – what they consider prey -- outside could be garnering an involuntary reaction that, without the prey in their mouth, results in that, chirp, chirp, chirping sound.
 
3. They’re frustrated: The fact that they’re indoors and the birds are outdoors may cause the thwarted hunter in your cats to chirp out of frustration. It’s the equivalent of humans “letting off steam” and is no cause for concern or alarm. Exasperated at being unable to leap from the window and chase after the tempting prey they’ve spotted, the most they can do to mollify themselves is chirp.
 
4. They’ve activated the prey sequence: Common in domesticated and wild cats, the initial step is watching their prey with anticipation, during which chirping occurs. The next steps include stalking or chasing, pouncing and then, finally, delivering the killer bite. Although indoor cats can’t complete the entire sequence, the fact that they’ve spotted a bird outside has at least satisfied part of their primal instincts.
 
5. They’re mimicking the killer bite: Some experts believe that the chirping of indoor cats doesn’t mimic the birds but rather the killer bite they use when successfully capturing their prey. While repugnant to some pet parents, it’s normal for them, and discouraging this behavior can leave them feeling frustrated or anxious with no outlet for their pent-up kitty energy. They may even act aggressively towards you, your family and/or other pets in your household. In short, for truly happy indoor cats, chirping at birds should be encouraged.
 
To encourage your own kitty’s innate prey drive, provide her with a safe place to view the outdoors, play with her several times a day, particularly before meals, use chaser and wand toys to promote her hunting skills and use stimulating food puzzles to engage her mind at feeding times.

by Nomi Berger
 
The feline parvovirus or feline panleukopenia is a disease that’s most common and most severe in kittens and can, all too often, be fatal.
 
At birth, kittens typically receive antibodies from their mother, which protect them for the first few weeks. By the age of 4 to 12 weeks, however, this protection wanes, and the kittens become vulnerable to the virus. Because the virus is widespread throughout the environment and can survive in it for months, nearly all cats are exposed to it. Not surprisingly then, both sick cats and unvaccinated cats are the ones most likely to contract this disease.
 
The feline parvovirus attacks the cells in a cat’s intestines, causing diarrhea, vomiting, difficulty eating and difficulty drinking. It also attacks the bone marrow, resulting in shortages of red blood cells, white blood cells and platelets. This potentially deadly virus is found in the nasal secretions, stool and urine of cats with the disease, called carrier cats, anywhere from two days to six weeks, contaminating everything from their cages and bedding, to dishes and the hands and clothes of their “people.” Even fleas from infected cats can infect otherwise healthy cats. Common, as well, is cat-to-cat passage of the feline parvovirus, which is more likely to occur in multi-cat households, animal shelters, pet shops and any other places where several cats live together.
 
Ironically, the feline parvovirus doesn’t always cause symptoms. Some cats can have the infection, exhibit no visible signs of it whatsoever and then die suddenly because the disease progressed so severely and so rapidly. But, for all concerned kitty owners, the usual symptoms of infected cats are: decreased appetite, depression and lethargy, diarrhea, which may be watery or bloody, fever in the early stages, followed by a low body temperature, frothing at the mouth or vomiting and watery discharge from the nose.
 
Some or all of these symptoms in your kitten or cat, coupled with a history of exposure and not having been vaccinated make this disease frighteningly likely, and merits an immediate visit to the vet. Stool samples and blood tests will promptly be taken and sent to a lab. The lab may identify the virus in your kitten or cat’s stool while the blood tests would show a reduced number of all cell types (pancytopenia), a characteristic of the disease.
 
Sadly, no medications, at this time, are capable of killing the virus. Good supportive care with intravenous fluids, nutrients, and antibiotics to prevent secondary bacterial infection may help your kitten or cat survive. While kittens have high mortality rates, older cats have a better chance of surviving this insidious disease.
 
Given that the most effective way of protecting your kitten is by vaccination, your vet will usually advise you to begin at 8 or 9 weeks of age, with two or three doses administered three to four weeks apart. The last of these should not be before the age of 16 weeks, while a follow-up dose is now being recommended at 26 to 52 weeks. As for adult cats, they must receive regular booster doses of the vaccine (both live and “killed” vaccines are available and are very effective).
 
Should any of your cats be infected with the virus, they must be isolated from any other cats in a multi-cat home. Their litter boxes must be cleaned and disinfected regularly and you must disinfect your entire home to keep your other pets safe. If your other cats aren’t vaccinated, they, too, are at a high risk of infection.
 
As the old adage advises: An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.

by Nomi Berger
 
Did you know that, like people, cats require proper oral care? If their teeth aren’t cleaned on a regular basis, they can develop gum diseases like gingivitis.
 
What then IS gingivitis? Simply put, it’s an inflammation of the gum or gingiva that surrounds the teeth. It typically ranges from moderate to severe, while, in extreme cases, cats with gingivitis may not only be in considerable pain, they may have difficulty eating. Again, as with people, plaque – the build-up of dead skin cells, debris, food, germs and mucus – is the culprit, accumulating on a cat’s teeth and contributing to the problem. The solution: a deep and intensive tooth cleaning under anesthesia in the vet’s office.
 
The most common signs of feline gingivitis are red or swollen gums, especially around the area of their inner cheeks, bad breath, drooling, difficulty picking up toys and/or food, difficulty eating or not eating at all, calculi/tartar and a build-up of plaque on the surface of their teeth.
 
The most common causes of this condition, besides poor dental hygiene, can include a diet of soft food, an autoimmune disease, crowded teeth, FeLV (Feline Leukemia virus) and old age.
 
Since cats are notoriously adept at hiding their pain, they may not display any outward signs of discomfort even if they’re truly suffering. Even those who are both eating normally and staying active can have significant gum and teeth issues. Taking them to the vet for their annual routine exam is, therefore, essential to the early detection of any existing dental disease.
 
The treatment of gingivitis focuses on eliminating all accumulated plaque and dental calculus as well as treating or extracting any loose and/or diseased teeth. Where inflammatory dental disease is concerned, this requires routine tooth cleanings and dental X-rays under an anesthetic.
 
In the case of your own favorite feline, the frequency of her dental checkups will be determined by the degree of periodontal disease she has. If your adult cat’s teeth are overcrowded or if she still has some of her baby teeth, your vet may recommend extracting some of the first and all of the latter. Mostly importantly, however, your vet or a veterinary technician will show you how to properly clean your cat’s teeth at home and then schedule a follow-up exam.
 
Begin your home-care program by buying a cat-specific toothbrush and toothpaste at a pet supply store. Brushing your cat’s teeth must be introduced gradually so that she can become accustomed to the process. Place some of her favorite snacks either on the bathroom or kitchen counter near the toothbrush and toothpaste to help her associate something positive with them. Put a dab of toothpaste on your finger and let her lick it off: a “taste” of good things to come, as it were.
 
Get her used to you touching her mouth by placing a dental treat she already enjoys on her canine teeth. Once she accepts it there, start placing it deeper and deeper into her mouth while keeping it on her teeth. Repeat this process as often as needed until she’s comfortable with you touching her mouth before introducing the toothbrush and toothpaste.
Brush gently along the bottom gum line for about 15 to 30 seconds, only on the outside of the teeth, then along the top gum line, and reward her with her favorite snack afterward.
 
Should you encounter any resistance from her and don’t know how to proceed, reach out to your vet or vet tech for guidance. And remember that practice makes purr-fect – for both you and your kitty.

by Nomi Berger
 
Does your favorite feline give her dry food a “paws up” one day and a “paws down” the next?
 
If so – particularly senior cats -- consider making mealtimes more consistently paw-leasurable by mixing wet and dry cat foods together. Different from adding a topper, which is often used to boost certain nutrients or to help cats gain weight, combining wet and dry foods both increases palatability and improves a cat’s appetite. 
 
Because most cats seldom drink enough water in a day, this can cause dehydration which, in turn, can lead to health problems, including urinary tract and/or kidney issues. Wet food can help correct this. Studies have shown that wet canned food is typically made up of 75 percent water and semi-moist canned food is made up of 35 percent water. By contrast, dry cat food is made up of a mere 10 – 12 percent water. Therefore, adding wet food to your cat’s current dry food greatly increases her daily water intake.
 
Highly palatable for most finicky felines, canned wet food features fabulously fragrant meat combined with temptingly tasty ingredients – much like canned tuna for humans from the grocery store. And given the abundance of water that wet food contains, cats will feel fuller ever so much faster. Not to mention how much this helps them manage their weight since they’re consuming fewer overall calories.
 
The only drawbacks: wet food is more expensive than dry food and is harder to store once the can has been opened.
 
On the other hand, dry cat food is similar to dry dog food in that various ingredients are combined, extruded, cooked and then subsequently dried into bite-size chunks or small pieces of kibble. One of dry food’s major advantages is the price: it’s typically less expensive per ounce than wet food – depending, however, on the brand that you buy.
 
Dry food, with its crunchy kibble, especially some vet-prescribed brands, are formulated specifically to support cats’ dental health by helping clean their teeth and reduce the build-up of tartar and plaque. That said, these specially formulated brands should never replace regular, professional tooth cleaning and dental checkups.
 
Dry food is also easy to store and lasts longer than wet food once it’s been opened, making it ideal to leave out during the day for cats who prefer to graze.
 
Combining wet and dry foods gives cat owners the best of both worlds: the hydration and tastiness of wet food coupled with the dental benefits and cost savings of dry food. The key to success, however, is finding the right ratio of wet to dry food for your own feline friend. 
 
The “rule of thumb:” Combine 70% dry food with 30% wet food, although very wet foods may call for a ratio of 75% dry and 25% wet. The ideal ratio may also depend on your own cat’s needs. Older cats, for example, may require extra wet food to keep them hydrated and entice them to eat. But, to err on the side of caution, it’s always best to follow the advice of your vet. Then, start making a slow transition to the dry/wet combination.
 
Begin by adding a smaller amount of wet food to your cat’s usual dry food and allow her several days to get used to the combination and prevent any possible stomach upset. Then, over the next week, gradually add more wet food to the dry food until you reach your targeted ratio.
 
And, paw-lease, always remember that patience pays off!

by Nomi Berger
 
Does your favorite feline favor you with copious licks throughout the day? Have you ever wondered if this form of grooming is normal?
 
According to various veterinary and behavioral experts, this cute and quirky behavior is, indeed, quite normal and have offered the following explanations for it.
 
Your cat is grooming you because she wants, quite literally, to clean you. When she grooms you, she’s expressing her affection for you and trust in you, and communicating that she considers you family. What could be more gratifying than feeling that soft, prickly tongue on your skin, secure in the knowledge that you’re the lucky recipient of your kitty’s loving attention?
 
Your cat is grooming you as a way of “claiming” you. It’s quite similar to her endearing habit of constantly rubbing up against you. Since all cats mark their territory through the scent glands located in their saliva, by grooming their pet parents with their tongues, they’re doing so to reinforce the special bond they have with them.
 
Your cat is grooming you because she wants attention. Far from subtle, when your cat insistently lick, lick, licks you, this is clearly her way of letting you know that your complete and undivided attention is needed -- or rather demanded -- at that very moment.
 
Your cat is grooming you because she likes the way you taste and/or smell. Renowned for their keen sense of smell and endless curiosity, cats may enjoy the salty taste of their owners’ skin or the scent of their perfume, shampoo or soap. If, however, your own kitty begins grooming you after you’ve applied such products as insect repellent, sunscreen or a topical medication, offer her a lickable cat treat instead. Why? These products are harmful if ingested, and the treat will distract her and satisfy her craving.
 
Your cat is grooming you as a way of relieving stress. Just like kneading and sucking on blankets, grooming can be an effective self-soothing mechanism for felines. Should your favorite feline feel especially anxious or stressed, she might engage in this practice to seek comfort and reassurance. If you suspect that she’s suffering from some form of stress, offer her extra cuddles, snuggles and pets and speak to her, softly and calmly, over and over and over again.
 
If, however, you would prefer NOT to be licked clean aka groomed by your kitty, these same experts offer the following suggestions:
 
Gently redirect her attention. Keep her otherwise entertained with several new and exciting toys or engage her in some intense interactive play sessions whenever she’s about to groom you.
Walk away from her briefly. Before you do, though, offer her an alternative to the affection she clearly craves by brushing, stroking or petting her.
Change your perfume, shampoo and/or soap. Through trial and error, find scented substitutes that please YOU – not her – or consider fragrance-free options instead.
Provide her with a quiet, stress-free space. Should her grooming be caused by anxiety or fear, set aside a small corner of your home complete with a natural sound machine, calming chews and anxiety-reducing plush toys.

by Nomi Berger
 
Have you recently noticed an increase in the amount of matted fur on your senior cat?
 
While some are more enthusiastic about self-grooming than others, most take particular pride in their appearance throughout their lives. Therefore, if your favorite feline has either stopped or reduced the amount of time she’s typically spent grooming herself in the past, an underlying health issue could be the culprit. Whether it’s a dental condition, degenerative joint disease, a urinary tract infection or some other problem, it’s essential to have her examined by your vet.
 
Once you’ve determined and addressed the physical (if any) cause of her fur matting, it’s then vital to address the quality of your cherished cat’s coat, i.e. through regular grooming sessions – courtesy of you! Why? If left unkempt, her once neat and self-groomed coat will continue to mat, resulting in tiny tangles that turn into small, tight knots. This is particularly painful for senior cats since they now lack excess body fat and muscle tone, leading to thinner skin, loss of elasticity, and making their skin all the more prone to bruising and tearing. Therefore, to reduce the amount of matted fur on her body, spend a few minutes each day on some form of “assisted” grooming.
 
Not only will this grooming routine be much easier on your cat, it’s a ritual that will, hopefully, be an enjoyable experience for you both. (If, however, you feel overwhelmed by the prospect of taking this on, enlist the help of a cat groomer who specializes in working with senior cats).
 
When choosing the ideal setting for these highly anticipated “beauty sessions,” your surroundings should be quiet and calm. Some cat experts suggest placing a rubber-backed, carpeted bath mat on top of the washing machine or dryer. These machines are the perfect height for people and felines will feel safe and secure on the soft, comfortable surface of the bath mat. Before you begin, though, keep a generous supply of your kitty’s favorite treats close by and “gift” her frequently to distract her and create a positive association with your new ritual.
 
Begin then, by petting your cat from head to tail, searching for specific problem areas. Slowly make your way through her entire coat, alternating between a rubber brush to sweep up any loose hair, a soft-pin slicker brush to work through any tangles and a stainless steel comb to gently target any mats. Pay extra attention to her hips, hind legs and underside where mats commonly form. Because these spots may be especially sensitive, go slowly, very slowly, and do so even more gently.
 
If parts of her coat are thickly matted, lightly rub a small amount of cornstarch into them with your fingers and then carefully brush through them. Some of the powder will stick to her coat, making it easier to grip. Failing that, use a bristle brush to work in the powder, thereby distributing natural oils through her coat. Oftentimes, simply pulling the knotted fur apart, slowly and carefully, with your fingers will free the mat. If that doesn’t work, though, contact a professional groomer. Mats that are close to the skin must be shaved off with cat-appropriate clippers used by someone familiar with the practice to prevent even the tiniest of nicks in her skin.
 
Experts also suggest keeping these items in your home: a cat flea comb, particularly if your cat goes outside or shares her space with a dog, a set of cat nail clippers, soft cotton gauze pads to clean around her ears, eyes and claws, and a detangling spray.

by Nomi Berger
 
Nothing is more contenting than the sight of relaxed and happy cats, “making biscuits,” purring, and often drooling while their loving owners pet, pet and pet them.
 
But sometimes their drooling, especially if it’s excessive, can be concerning. Below are some common causes for such heavy drooling.
 
Dental issues: Conditions such as gingivitis, tartar buildup and tooth abscesses can cause cats great discomfort, leading to drooling. These conditions may also be accompanied by bad breath, difficulty eating or visible plaque on their teeth.
 
Emotional stress: Cats experiencing emotional stress will often drool excessively. Stressful situations such as loud noises like fireworks and/or thunderstorms, the addition of a new family pet and moving into a new home are some of the most common triggers.
 
Illnesses and infections: Among the culprits responsible for excessive drooling are illnesses affecting their upper respiratory system, feline calicivirus, bacterial infections, rabies and gastrointestinal problems, including inflammatory bowel disease or liver disorders – all of which may be accompanied by other symptoms such as coughing, sneezing, lethargy or vomiting.
 
Nausea: Nausea, whether as the result of changes in diet, “dietary indiscretions” or motion sickness, can often cause cats to drool. Usually a reflex to the sensation of feeling sick, it’s often accompanied by decreased appetite, lethargy and/or lip licking.
 
Injuries or trauma: Injuries to the mouth or facial area in general, whether from a fall, a fight with another cat or an accident, can also cause drooling. Because these kinds of injuries may not always be visible immediately, it’s important to watch for other signs of distress and/or pain.
 
Unpleasant tastes or ingested toxins: Cats may drool in response to ingesting something either distasteful or toxic such as certain plants like lilies, household cleaners or medications – their way of trying NOT to swallow these harmful substances.
 
If any of the above sound frighteningly familiar, an immediate visit to the vet with your kitty is vital – both for an accurate diagnosis and the appropriate treatment. Your vet will give your cat a thorough physical examination and check her mouth for any dental issues, signs of injury and/or any foreign objects. Depending on these initial findings, diagnostic tests may be required, among them, blood tests to check for an infection, x-rays or an ultrasound for a closer look at her internal organs, and specific tests for infectious diseases. A detailed dental examination may also be needed, usually requiring sedation to allow for a complete evaluation of her teeth and gums.
 
Treatment options: If dental problems are “at the root” of your cat’s drooling, her treatment will, in all likelihood, involve a deep dental cleaning, tooth extractions if required, and/or medication for infections and/or pain relief.
 
For stress-induced drooling, environmental modifications may need to be addressed, and if that doesn’t work, your cat may be prescribed pheromone therapy, mild sedatives and/or anti-anxiety medications.
 
For systemic illnesses or infections, her treatment may include antibiotics, anti-inflammatory medications and/or therapies targeting the direct source of the problem.
 
If nausea is the underlying cause of her drooling, dietary changes, anti-nausea medication and/or other supportive care may be recommended.
 
In cases of trauma or injury, treatment can range from pain management to surgery, depending on the source and severity of either one.
 
If the cause is due to having ingested toxins, treatment will focus on removing them from her body, which might involve inducing vomiting, administering activated charcoal or providing supportive care like IV fluids.
 
To ensure that your cherished feline companion is returned as quickly as possible to her normal self, ongoing contact with your vet, adhering meticulously to a post-treatment plan and regular follow-ups are absolutely essential.