by Nomi Berger
 
Is your favorite feline finding it nearly im-paws-ible to jump to and from her most preferred perch? Is she meowing – as in “ouch!” -- after completing a once-easy jump even onto a couch or a chair? Is she suffering from arthritis or other joint problems, recovering from an injury or surgery, including the amputation of a leg? Is she losing her vision? Or is she simply aging? If any of these scenarios sounds achingly familiar, consider providing her with either a set of stairs or a ramp.
 
To conserve space, purchase a set of stairs instead of a ramp. Many are collapsible or easily transportable, allowing you to both move them when necessary and put them away. With a steeper incline, and shorter than a ramp, if your cat can manage them, they may be the most convenient option. Each individual step should be no more than 7 ½” tall and at least 10” deep since cats like having the space to maneuver. Most importantly, the top step should be no less than 7 1/2” shorter than the surface it leads to.
 
Buy a model with safety rails along the side of the stairs to stop your cat if she starts falling off. This is especially important if she’s losing or has already lost much of her sight. One obvious clue  -- since all vision-impaired animals will have long since memorized their surroundings – will be her tendency to bump into furniture more often, particularly if you’ve moved some of that furniture around.
 
While some cats – especially those who have never used stairs before -- are unlikely to use stairs if introduced to them late in life or if they already have trouble walking around, a ramp may prove to be the safest option. It usually helps to get your kitty accustomed to a ramp beforehand, so consider buying one as soon as she displays any mobility issues, such as walking less or displaying changes in her gait. And remember, any ramp you buy should be high enough to be level with its intended surface.
 
Purchase one with a gentler slope for older cats or those who are already severely impaired -- a low slope of 18 degrees is best. For cats whose difficulties are still moderate, a steeper one at 26 degrees may still be suitable. The best ramp is one covered in a non-looping, plush carpet. Not only does it provide traction, preventing your cat from falling off, her nails won’t get caught or stuck in a carpet with loops. One note of caution: buy a ramp for a chair, couch or bed, but NEVER buy a ramp leading UP, UP, UP to bookcases, closet shelves, high perches or windows.
 
Because ramps and steps are unfamiliar to most cats, it’s essential that you introduce yours slowly and patiently to them, preferably in a quiet space free from unwanted distractions. Begin by placing treats on the ramp or bottom step of the stairs to get her started. And although she may not do so immediately, put another treat in the middle of the ramp or stair. Once she’s actually on it, place more treats on top of the ramp or stairs, thereby teaching and encouraging her how to make her way up it. And since practice makes purr-fect, practice, practice, practice while continuing to pave her way to success with treat after treat after treat. Provide her with the gentle guidance and patient support she needs to keep her from rushing or jumping off, slipping or falling off until she’s fully confident, comfortable, and capable of safely ascending and descending the ramp or steps on her own.
 

by Nomi Berger
 
As creatures of habit who crave their creature comforts, cats don’t always make the best road trip companions. But by mapping out kitty’s trip together with your own, you can curtail her bad “backseat driver” behavior, and turn a potentially negative experience into a purr-fectly paws-itive one.
 
Consider the following suggestions to smooth the way for everyone – human and feline:
 
Remain calm. Because cats sense our stress, don’t raise your voice or display any overt signs of your own pre-trip tension.
 
Should your trip be longer than a day, make reservations ahead of time solely at pet-friendly motels or hotels.
 
Carry your most up-to-date vet paperwork, showing, at the very least, that your cat is current on her rabies shots.
 
Never medicate an overly anxious cat without first consulting your vet. Many OTC calming agents are dangerous for cats, and if you do use a medication prescribed by your vet, always try it out at home first to test for any reactions and/or side effects.
 
If your cat tends to get car sick, avoid feeding her between two and three hours prior to your departure.
 
Train your cat to wear a harness so that she can remain safely harnessed inside the car. Her harness should bear a name tag with all pertinent ID (microchipping is, of course, the best ID), and a leash should be clipped to it whenever you remove kitty from her carrier or from the car itself.
 
Have your cat travel comfortably by keeping her in a large carrier or dog crate, allowing her room enough to stretch and move around during the drive. Set the crate or carrier in a well-ventilated part of the car, out of excessive drafts and away from direct sunlight.
 
Drape a sheet over the crate or carrier, leaving one side open, to help her feel more snug, safe and secure.
 
Place a familiar blanket, several cushions, or a worn T-shirt with your scent on it inside the crate or carrier. Rotate various cat toys along the way (this works particularly well with a young kitten) to keep her stimulated and occupied.
 
Line the bottom with pee pads as a precaution and put a small, disposable litter pan (aluminum baking pans work well) inside the carrier or crate, and ensure you have a generous supply of both to last the entire trip. Stock up on sanitized wipes and strong plastic bags to handle any and all “litter box” accidents.
 
If your cat has an appetite, feed her the same food that she eats at home and keep her water bowl only partly filled to avoid spilling.
 
Never let your cat out of the car at “rest stops” unless she’s well trained to walk on a harness and leash. And above all, never leave kitty unattended -- on either hot or cold days.
 
As they say, forewarned is forearmed. Hopefully then, armed with these few tips, you and your cat can share a road trip to remember – fondly.

 by Nomi Berger
 
Picture yourself on a sweltering summer day wearing a long fur coat. Are you hot yet? Itchy? Thirsty? Desperately searching for shade?
 
Now picture your cats on that same summer day. And you’ll have some idea of how THEY feel.
 
Keeping cats cool and comfortable is essential to keeping them safe INside. Protecting them from the hot sun, hot air and hot ground is essential to keeping them safe OUTside. All it requires is common sense and some advance planning.
 
If you have air conditioning, cool down your place as much as possible before you leave for work/play/the day. Draw blinds/curtains and leave the air conditioning on low.
 
If you don’t have air conditioning, place fans in the windows and run them on “exhaust” to circulate the air without sucking in the hot air outside. Keep blinds/curtains drawn.
 
Freeze a bottle of water and place it IN your cat’s bed or place a package of frozen peas UNDER the covering of the bed.
 
Feeling extravagant? Purchase a cat bed that stays cool through low voltage electricity.
 
Store small plastic containers of water in the freezer overnight. Place the now-iced containers around your cat’s other favorite cuddling/napping spot(s).
 
Keep your cat’s food and water bowls out of any direct sunlight, and fill the water bowl with ice cubes to help it remain chilled for hours.
 
Keep activity to a minimum and discourage your cat from playing.
 
For those with a screened-in patio that their cat enjoys, put up shades on the sides that face the sun, set out several bowls of iced water and check on them throughout the day.
 
If gone for the day, consider keeping your cat in the bathroom to lie on the tiled floor or counter top or to curl up in the bathtub or sink.
 
If going on a road trip in a car without air conditioning, place a wet towel over your cat’s carrier or attach a small battery-operated fan to the outside of the carrier.
 
Fill the food and water cups inside the carrier with crushed ice for extra cooling, and use a spray bottle of cold water to occasionally wet your cat’s coat.
 
If traveling in a car WITH air conditioning, keep it on and ensure that the airflow reaches your cat’s carrier.
 
Never leave your cat tethered outside in the shade. As the day progresses and the light shifts, your cat will be directly exposed to the sun’s harmful rays and heat.
 
Never shave your cat’s fur as it offers SOME protection against sunburn. Pale and light-skinned cats MUST stay out of the sun because their ears and the tips of their noses are prone to skin cancer.
 
Never leave your cat in a parked car (even with the windows cracked) for even a few minutes. (Leaving the A/C on with the motor running is an environmental no-no). The inside of a car heats up quickly, making it much hotter than the air outside and can lead swiftly to heat stroke.
 
The symptoms of heat stroke include rapid panting, difficulty breathing, increased heart rate, erratic/wobbly walking, and redder than normal gums.
 
Should you observe any of these symptoms, wrap your cat in a cool, wet towel, and get to your veterinarian or to an animal hospital immediately.
 
Being a responsible cat guardian means being an informed cat guardian.
 
The list of safety rules may seem long, but the hot days of summer are even longer.
 
 

by Nomi Berger
 
As creatures of habit who crave their creature comforts, cats don’t always make the best road trip companions. But by mapping out kitty’s trip together with your own, you can curtail her bad “backseat driver” behavior, and turn a potentially negative experience into a purr-fectly paws-itive one.
 
Consider the following suggestions to smooth the way for everyone – human and feline:
 
Remain calm. Because cats sense our stress, don’t raise your voice or display any overt signs of your own pre-trip tension.
 
Should your trip be longer than a day, make reservations ahead of time solely at pet-friendly motels or hotels.
 
Carry your most up-to-date vet paperwork, showing, at the very least, that your cat is current on her rabies shots.
 
Never medicate an overly anxious cat without first consulting your vet. Many OTC calming agents are dangerous for cats, and if you do use a medication prescribed by your vet, always try it out at home first to test for any reactions and/or side effects.
 
If your cat tends to get car sick, avoid feeding her between two and three hours prior to your departure.
 
Train your cat to wear a harness so that she can remain safely harnessed inside the car. Her harness should bear a nametag with all pertinent ID (microchipping is, of course, the best ID), and a leash should be clipped to it whenever you remove kitty from her carrier or from the car itself.
 
Have your cat travel comfortably by keeping her in a large carrier or dog crate, allowing her room enough to stretch and move around during the drive. Set the crate or carrier in a well-ventilated part of the car, out of excessive drafts and away from direct sunlight.
 
Drape a sheet over the crate or carrier, leaving one side open, to help her feel more snug, safe and secure.
 
Place a familiar blanket, several cushions, or a worn T-shirt with your scent on it inside the crate or carrier. Rotate various cat toys along the way (this works particularly well with a young kitten) to keep her stimulated and occupied.
 
Line the bottom with pee pads as a precaution and put a small, disposable litter pan (aluminum baking pans work well) inside the carrier or crate, and ensure you have a generous supply of both to last the entire trip. Stock up on sanitized wipes and strong plastic bags to handle any and all “litter box” accidents.
 
If your cat has an appetite, feed her the same food that she eats at home and keep her water bowl only partly filled to avoid spilling.
 
Never let your cat out of the car at “rest stops” unless she’s well trained to walk on a harness and leash. And above all, never leave kitty unattended -- on either hot or cold days.
 
As they say, forewarned is forearmed. Hopefully then, armed with these few tips, you and your cat can share a road trip to remember – fondly.
 

by Nomi Berger
 
Notoriously inquisitive, known for nosing around indoors and out, cats continuously court disaster, and it’s incumbent upon their conscientious owners to keep them safe from harm.
 
That said, consider these seven backyard threats to your own kitty’s health and wellbeing.
 
Toxic Plants: Famously fond of chewing on plants, curious cats should never find these toxic plants in YOUR garden – azaleas, chrysanthemums, daffodils, foxgloves, gladioli, hydrangeas, irises, lilies, marigolds, tomato plants and tulips. For a more complete list of potentially lethal plants, please consult your vet.
 
Unlocked garages and sheds: Both are paw-tential “breeding grounds” for disaster -- from sharp tools when stepped on to toxic chemicals when ingested. If your house has a garage, a shed or both, ensure that they’re always closed and locked when not in use to keep your cat from wandering around them unsupervised. Make certain beforehand, though, that all of your tools have been safely stored away and that your cat isn’t hiding some place inside to keep her from being trapped there.
 
Uncovered swimming pools: Attempting to drink from an outdoor swimming pool can prove fatal to any curious cats should they fall into the water. To spare them this fate, either use a pool cover when the pool’s not in use or ensure that there’s a low edge to it. This way, cats can easily climb out if they happen to lose their balance and take a tumble.
 
Chemical herbicides: Far too many dedicated gardeners use chemicals -- herbicides and/or insecticides -- to keep their gardens free from unsightly weeds and plant-eating bugs. But these chemicals can make cats violently ill if licked, chewed and swallowed. The solution: if you do use such chemicals, restrict your cat’s access to the garden until they’re fully dried or, better still, switch to natural alternatives that are deemed safe for pets.
 
Rat poison and slug pellets: Not only is rodent poison fatal to rats and mice, it can also be fatal to cats -- if they ingest the poison itself or if they eat a poisoned rat. To keep your cat safe, avoid using rat poison in your own garden and speak with your neighbors about their own, possible use of this toxic substance. Slug pellets, shaped like small cylindrical bullets, can also be appealing to cats and should be replaced with harmless alternatives – from copper tape and egg shells to sea shells and recycled wool waste pellets.
 
Fruit stones from trees or plants: The downside of having fruit trees or fruit-bearing plants in your garden is how quickly they litter the ground with fruit stones, berries and seeds. If cats swallow a fruit stone, it can often cause an intestinal obstruction that, if not resolved promptly, can be fatal. In some cases, these stones, along with the berries and seeds, can also be toxic and should be removed from the ground on a regular basis.
 
Compost heaps: While cats may enjoy digging about in compost heaps, dangers lurk deep within them -- from sharp sticks, moldy food and coffee grounds to cat-toxic fruits and vegetables such as raisins, onions and avocados. If there’s a compost heap in your garden, enclose it with a pet-proof fence or use a specially designed bin to keep the compost safely out of reach of your cats’ paws and mouths.

by Nomi Berger

As you deck the proverbial halls this season, paw-lease keep your purr-ecious kitty in mind. Any changes in her regular routine – a home suddenly filled with new scents, sounds and strangers -- may send even the most sociable cat scampering for safety.
 
Be conscious of and careful about the plants you bring into your home. Despite their obvious beauty, holly, mistletoe and poinsettia are toxic to cats and should be kept out of reach, while a single leaf from any form of lily is lethal. The oils of a Christmas tree can irritate their mouths and stomachs, causing vomiting, while the prickly needles are hazardous to their entire GI tracts.
 
To err on the side of caution, consider buying an artificial tree and artificial plants instead.
 
Consider next the breakable ornaments and dangling tinsel, shiny ribbons and artificial snow, ropes of small lights and flickering candles. All eye-catching eye candy to curious kitties with batting paws, small, sharp teeth and swishing tails.
 
Hang delicate ornaments higher on the tree and resist placing any in decorative bowls on low surfaces. Not only can cats choke on them, but the sharp edges of any broken pieces can lacerate their mouths, throats and intestines. Drape tinsel higher on the tree as well, and keep ribbons on gifts underneath the tree to a minimum. If tinsel or ribbons are swallowed, they can twist and bunch inside a cat’s intestines, causing serious, sometimes fatal damage if not caught quickly enough.
 
Artificial snow is toxic and should be avoided at all costs. Lights, large and small, solid and flickering are another danger, not only because they are hot and breakable, but because of the electrical cords holding them together. If bitten, they can cause electrical shock if not properly grounded, and if frayed, they can cause severe lacerations to your cat’s tongue.
Place all lighted candles out of reach to reduce the risk of singed fur and pads, paws and tails, and lower the chance of them being tipped over, leaving burning wax everywhere or worse, starting a fire.
 
As appetizing as holiday fare is for people, it can prove agonizing, even lethal for pets. The most notorious offenders are:
Raisins and grapes: A handful of raisins can cause sudden kidney failure in a cat. Also avoid giving her grapes, while watching for signs of toxicity should she accidentally eat some. Signs that usually occur within 24 hours are lack of appetite, lethargy, weakness, abdominal pain, diarrhea and decreased urination.
Onions and garlic: The sulfoxides and disulfides in both destroy red blood cells and can cause serious blood problems including anemia.
Fat trimmings: They cause upset stomachs, vomiting and diarrhea.
Bones: Whatever the size, shape or texture, they all spell the same thing: danger. From throat scratches to stomach perforations to bowel obstructions. To safeguard against these painful possibilities, all leftovers, particularly bones, should be carefully wrapped and promptly disposed of.
Alcohol: It’s traditional to celebrate the holidays with more alcohol than usual – in cooking and in drinks such as eggnog and fruit punch. For safety’s sake, keep these temptations (including partially eaten plates of food and half-empty glasses) out of the reach of your cat to avoid intoxication and alcohol poisoning.
Chocolates: Although chocolate has long been taboo for cats, most chocolates are wrapped in foil for the holidays. Now, not only can your cat get sick from eating the chocolate, the wrappers themselves can get stuck in her throat or cause problems as they work their way through her digestive tract.
Christmas pudding, cake and mince pie: Filled with potentially toxic raisins, currants, and sultanas, they are also made with fat and suet, and laced with alcohol -- from scotch and brandy to sugary liqueurs.
 
And so, with some thoughtful planning beforehand, you and your purr-ecious kitty can enjoy the happiest and healthiest of holidays.

by Nomi Berger
 
Thanksgiving is a festive time, filled with feasting, family, and friends. But it’s also a time of potential distress for our feline companions. Any changes in a cat’s regular routine – a calm home now crammed with new scents, sounds and strangers — can send even the least “fraidy cat” cat scampering for cover.
 
To reduce your furry friend’s stress level (and YOURS), maintain her regular feeding and playing routine with some extra interactive play sessions for good measure. Keep all but the most social cats in a separate room, then ensure that your social “cat-erfly” doesn’t dart out into the night when the door opens and your guests arrive. Should the worst happen and she does disappear, make certain that she has either been micro-chipped or is wearing a collar with up-to-date tags for proper identification and a swift return to your waiting arms.
 
As tantalizing as Thanksgiving food is for people, some can prove painful, even fatal for cats. The most notorious offenders are:
 
Chocolate: All chocolate, especially semi-sweet, dark and baking chocolate contain the toxic, caffeine-like ingredient theobromine. Candy containing the artificial sweetener xylitol, is also dangerous. If you suspect that your cat has eaten something toxic, promptly call your veterinarian or the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center at 1-888-426-4435 or the Pet Poison Hotline at 1-800-213-6680 (fees apply in both instances).
 
Turkey stuffing: It often contains onions and garlic, raisins and spices – all of them toxic to cats. The sulfoxides and disulfides in onions and garlic destroy the red blood cells and can cause serious blood problems, including anemia. The effects of ingesting raisins and/or spices usually occur within 24 hours and include lack of appetite, lethargy, weakness, abdominal pain, diarrhea, and decreased urination.
 
Cooked turkey bones and gristle: Turkey bones splinter easily and can get caught in your cat’s throat or esophagus. They can also cause intestinal blockages or perforations leading to infection, while turkey gristle presents a clear and present choking hazard. To safeguard against these painful possibilities, all leftovers should be carefully wrapped and promptly disposed of.
 
Alcohol: To avoid intoxication and alcohol poisoning, keep all full glasses and half-filled glasses of wine or spirits out of reach of your cat’s curious nose and playful paws.
 
And yet, there’s no harm in providing your kitty with her own Thanksgiving feast, one that includes a few small, boneless pieces of cooked turkey, a taste of mashed potato or even a lick of pumpkin pie.
 

by Nomi Berger
 
Everyone is familiar with the old adage “Curiosity killed the cat.”
 
But as conscientious cat owners, paw-lease ensure that your cherished companions’ natural curiosity NEVER gets the better of them – especially when it comes to their seeing and then swallowing small, strange objects. While some may pass through their intestinal tract without incident, some won’t, lodging there and causing not only extreme discomfort but a dangerous and potentially life-threatening obstruction.
 
Thread threat! Another potentially life-threatening situation can occur when a cat swallows thread, particularly when it’s attached to a needle. As she swallows the thread, it can wrap around her tongue and pull against it with every swallow. But even worse, the needle can pierce her stomach or intestines multiple times and prevent the thread from passing through her digestive tract.
 
Consider, as well, these other culprits:
 
Hair bands and rubber bands, ribbon and blind cords, dental floss and carpet fibers, stuffing from inside your cat’s toys, and tinsel.
 
Bones, particularly from cooked chicken, can be very sharp, extremely brittle, and lodge in your kitty’s intestines resulting in severe illness.
 
String and string-like objects: If swallowed, string can cause the intestines to bunch up, making for one very sick kitty and usually requiring surgery to remove it.
 
Coins, buttons and earplugs, fruit stones, nutshells and bottle tops, but especially small round objects which are the ideal size to block the intestines and require surgery to remove them.
 
If YOU suspect that YOUR kitty has swallowed something suspicious, watch for one or more of these symptoms: vomiting, diarrhea, lack of appetite, straining to defecate, constipation, lethargy and behavioral changes such as biting or hissing when being picked up. To err on the side of caution, promptly contact your vet and bring in your kitty for a thorough examination and assessment.
 
In order to detect a possible blockage, your vet will have x-rays taken (several x-rays, using dyes, will often be needed to locate a suspected object). Your vet may also order blood and urine tests to determine whether your cat’s overall health has been compromised by the obstruction – should there be one. 
 
Most of the time -- especially in uncomplicated cases -- the prognosis for cats with a gastrointestinal blockage is very good. But the overall prognosis depends on several factors: the location of the object, how long the intestine has been blocked, the size, shape, and characteristics of the object, whether or not the object has caused a secondary illness and the general health of your kitty prior to ingesting it.
 
Your vet will provide you with a detailed treatment plan based on these factors. If the object has lodged in your pet’s stomach, however, an endoscopy may be performed. This involves inserting a long tube through her mouth and down her throat to pull the object out. If this is the case, your vet may also suggest hospitalization of your cat for close observation and follow-up x-rays.
 
But if the foreign object has traveled to and is trapped in her intestine, your vet will have to surgically remove it.
 
Whatever the scenario, time is critical because stomach and/or intestinal blockages can cut off the blood supply to these organs, causing the tissue to become necrotic or “die.” 

 by Nomi Berger
 
Are you familiar with the term “scruffing” as it relates to our feline friends?
 
Long considered the most effective way of restraining cats, it involves taking the looser skin on the back of their necks (the scruff) in one hand and holding it – like a handle. This effectively immobilizes most kitties allowing their owners to perform such tasks as nail trimming or administering medications without dealing with struggling, squirming pets.
 
Some owners still believe that scruffing is a “natural” way in which cats reprimand each other. Nothing could be farther from the truth. While mother cats carry their newborn and young kittens by the scruff to move them from one location to another – usually for reasons of safety – it’s never used as a form of inter-feline discipline.
 
According to the experts, scruffing as an accepted practice is not only outdated, it’s hurtful, harmful and potentially traumatic. The result? Rather than pacifying some cats, it can panic others, causing them to swat, scratch or bite in a frantic effort to free themselves. Continued scruffing only heightens their negative association with the experience and serves to make their reactions to it progressively worse. While often used by pet parents as a shortcut, scruffing, in the long run, may have serious health implications for their terrified kitties, making essential future visits to the vet all but impossible.
 
The solution? Other, more humane ways to safely restrain a cat when the situation calls for it. In fact, a great deal of work has been done in the area of “low-stress” and “fear-free” handling of cats. Permitting them the use of at least one leg and providing distractions such as high value treats or especially tasty foods coupled with a more measured approach to restraining them is key to earning their trust and winning their compliance.
 
Enter the towel. Always close at hand, a towel (or a small blanket) is one of the most popular choices for subduing without scaring your own purr-ecious puss. One suggested option for its use is having your kitty hide her head under it like a petite, protective tent, and the second is gently wrapping her entire body inside of it. Akin to swaddling an infant, containing her on all sides and providing her with a feeling of safety, ensure that the towel provides a steady, even pressure but isn’t so tight that it impairs her ability to breathe.
 
Consider the wildly popular social media meme featuring a “burrito cat” – one who’s not only being humanely restrained but is obviously enjoying it! There are products on the market that accomplish the task just as easily and effectively such as ThunderShirts for cats, available in various models and styles.
 
And so, if you MUST restrain your cat, patience and gentleness are essential. Forcing her to do something she doesn’t want to do produces only negative results. Even if you’re using the “burrito” method and you notice her resistance beginning to escalate, unwrap her immediately, allow her to relax, and try again once she’s completely calm and settled. For routine procedures such as nail trims and doses of medicine, waiting for an hour or more can mean the difference between failure and success.
 
So, paw-lease, for your kitty’s sake, put all thoughts of scruffing behind you.

by Nomi Berger
 
A cautionary tail: Never put your cat’s carrier on the front seat of your vehicle where it can be crushed and your pet killed by deploying air bags in the case of abrupt braking or an actual collision.
 
That said, have you ever wondered why, despite there being more cats than dogs in American households, they visit the vet far less frequently than their canine counterparts.
 
Studies have shown that our prescient pusses can SENSE what’s coming and that they both dread and detest the entire process of GETTING to the vet. Some kitties become so stressed that they vomit or defecate out of fear while others morph into hissing, spitting balls of fury.
 
Since annual (twice a year for seniors) wellness exams are essential for monitoring and maintaining your cherished companion’s health, consider the following tips for making the experience of visiting the vet as fear free for your feline as paws-ible.
 
1. Bring out your kitty’s carrier several days before your scheduled vet appointment so that she can get used to the sight of it. Leave the door open, thereby allowing her to enter it, explore it and exit it at her leisure.
 
2. Place some of her favorite treats and/or some catnip inside the carrier to encourage her to associate the carrier with a pleasant and positive experience.
 
3. Make the carrier appear less threatening and more inviting by lining it with one of her blankets topped by several of her favorite toys.
 
4. Spray the interior of the carrier with a synthetic feline pheromone product reputed to decrease and even eliminate stress 30 minutes before using it, then gently put your kitty inside and softly close the door.
 
5. Place the carrier in a secure place on the back seat of your car. This way, should you have to stop suddenly, your cat will remain safe. To be doubly certain, choose a carrier that’s easily and securely fastened in place with a seatbelt.
 
6. Practice making mock trips to the vet by driving around the block. Once ... twice three times ... increasing your driving time as long as kitty seems comfortable, and stopping if she shows any signs of distress. For most cats, the only time they’re crated and inside a car is when they’re going to the vet, setting the stage for a stressful encounter once they arrive. This exercise will hopefully de-sensitize your cat, preparing her for “the real thing”, and rewarding her with especially high-value treats should assist in her associating the drive with something pleasurable.
 
7. If none of this helps and your kitty remains stressed both by the drive to the vet and by the visit itself, ask your vet to prescribe a sedative to calm her down for any and all future visits.