by Nomi Berger

National holidays, while celebrated by people, aren’t always cause for celebration by our cats. For them, a holiday like the 4th of JULY means one thing: fireworks. Or simply put: NOISES, LOUD and SUDDEN noises.

Fortunately there are various ways to deal with your kitty’s paw-tential distress both before and after the fireworks have begun.

Keep your cat indoors on the day of the fireworks -- especially those allowed outside for brief periods of time. Since she may attempt to slip outside or even bolt in terror because of the flashes and sounds, take extra care when opening and closing all exterior doors. But if the unthinkable happens and she does escape, for your peace of mind and her ultimate safety, have her micro-chipped.

Forego the pleasure of leaving to watch the fireworks yourself, and stay home. Even if your cat hides or refuses to interact with you, she’s far better off with you there than being left on her own.

Close all windows and draw all curtains and blinds to help buffer the sounds and dim the unsettling flashes of light.

Provide your cat with a “safe” room equipped with several cozy hiding places, a litter box and a water bowl, and settle her in there before the fireworks start. If she’s especially fearful, create a tunnel to the litter box or use one you already have to keep her from feeling too exposed. An alternative is to purchase a specially designed “cave-style” bed for her to curl up in.

Set up a Feliway diffuser in her “safe” room. It contains synthetic feline facial pheromones that are said to have a calming and comforting effect on cats.

Turn on the TV or play music to create a noise distraction. Choose music (classical is best) that is soothing and play it at a comfortable volume. Don’t attempt to drown out the fireworks by upping the volume because it’s not only the sudden, loud bangs that frighten your cat but the whizzing and whistling sounds accompanying them as well.

Try to distract your cat by using a fishing pole-type toy to engage her in playtime or set out several tempting food-puzzle toys to whet her appetite and curiosity.

While some cats may find comfort in their solitude, others may crawl into your lap and bury their heads in the crook of your arm to be petted and stroked. What’s important, however, is to respect your own kitty’s preference, thus allowing her to be comforted the way SHE wants to be comforted.  

Never give your cat any of your own anti-anxiety medications! Consult your vet, who may recommend an OTC supplement such as Zylkene (it works best if begun several days beforehand) or prescribe an anti-anxiety medication for your fearful feline.

But, whichever path you choose, follow it with kindness, patience and love. Think back to the sounds that may have frightened YOU as a child, and you’ll know just how your purr-ecious pet feels.

by Nomi Berger
 
As you deck the proverbial halls this season, please keep your favorite feline fur-iends in mind. Any changes in their regular routine – a home suddenly filled with new scents, sounds and strangers -- may send even the most sociable cats scampering for safety.
 
Be conscious of and careful about the plants you bring into your home. Despite their obvious beauty, holly, mistletoe and poinsettia are toxic to cats and should be kept out of reach, while a single leaf from any form of lily is lethal. The oils of a Christmas tree can irritate their mouths and stomachs, causing vomiting, while the prickly needles are hazardous to their entire GI tracts.
 
To err on the side of caution, consider buying an artificial tree and artificial plants instead.
 
Consider next the breakable ornaments and dangling tinsel, shiny ribbons and artificial snow, ropes of small lights and flickering candles. All eye-catching eye candy to curious kitties with batting paws, small, sharp teeth and swishing tails.
 
Hang delicate ornaments higher on the tree and resist placing any in decorative bowls on low surfaces. Not only can cats choke on them, but the sharp edges of any broken pieces can lacerate their mouths, throats and intestines. Drape tinsel higher on the tree as well, and keep ribbons on gifts underneath the tree to a minimum. If tinsel or ribbons are swallowed, they can twist and bunch inside a cat’s intestines, causing serious, sometimes fatal damage if not caught quickly enough.
 
Artificial snow is toxic and should be avoided at all costs. Lights, large and small, solid and flickering are another danger, not only because they are hot and breakable, but because of the electrical cords holding them together. If bitten, they can cause electrical shock if not properly grounded, and if frayed, they can cause severe lacerations to your cat’s tongue. Place all lighted candles out of reach to reduce the risk of singed fur and pads, paws and tails, and lower the chance of them being tipped over, leaving burning wax everywhere or worse, starting a fire.
 
As appetizing as holiday fare is for people, it can prove agonizing, even lethal for cats. The most notorious offenders are:
Raisins and grapes: A handful of raisins can cause sudden kidney failure in a cat. Also avoid giving her grapes, while watching for signs of toxicity should she accidentally eat some. Signs that usually occur within 24 hours are lack of appetite, lethargy, weakness, abdominal pain, diarrhea and decreased urination.

- Onions and garlic: The sulfoxides and disulfides in both destroy red blood cells and can cause serious blood problems including anemia.

- Fat trimmings: They cause upset stomachs, vomiting and diarrhea.
Bones: Whatever the size, shape or texture, they all spell the same thing: danger. From throat scratches to stomach perforations to bowel obstructions. To safeguard against these painful possibilities, all leftovers, particularly bones, should be carefully wrapped and promptly disposed of.

- Alcohol: It’s traditional to celebrate the holidays with more alcohol than usual – in cooking and in drinks such as eggnog and fruit punch. For safety’s sake, keep these temptations (including partially eaten plates of food and half-empty glasses) out of the reach of your cat to avoid intoxication and alcohol poisoning.
Chocolates: Although chocolate has long been taboo for cats, most chocolates are wrapped in foil for the holidays. Now, not only can your cat get sick from eating the chocolate, the wrappers themselves can get stuck in her throat or cause problems as they work their way through her digestive tract.

- Christmas pudding, cake and mince pie: Filled with potentially toxic raisins, currants, and sultanas, they are also made with fat and suet, and laced with alcohol -- from scotch and brandy to sugary liqueurs.
 
And so, with some thoughtful planning beforehand, you and your favorite feline fur-iends can enjoy the happiest and healthiest of holidays together.
 
 
 
 
 

by Nomi Berger

Thanksgiving is a festive time, filled with feasting, family, and friends. But it’s also a time of potential distress for our feline companions. Any changes in a cat’s regular routine – a calm home now crammed with new scents, sounds and strangers -- can send even the least “fraidy cat” cat scampering for cover.
 
To reduce your furry friend’s stress level (and YOURS), maintain her regular feeding and playing routine with some extra interactive play sessions for good measure. Keep all but the most social cats in a separate room, then ensure that your social “cat-erfly” doesn’t dart out into the night when the door opens and your guests arrive. Should the worst happen and she does disappear, make certain that she has either been micro-chipped or is wearing a collar with up-to-date tags for proper identification and a swift return to your waiting arms.
 
As tantalizing as Thanksgiving food is for people, some can prove painful, even fatal for cats. The most notorious offenders are:

Chocolate: All chocolate, especially semi-sweet, dark and baking chocolate contain the toxic, caffeine-like ingredient theobromine. Candy containing the artificial sweetener xylitol, is also dangerous. If you suspect that your cat has eaten something toxic, promptly call your veterinarian or the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center at (888) 426-4435.

Turkey stuffing: It often contains onions and garlic, raisins and spices – all of them toxic to cats. The sulfoxides and disulfides in onions and garlic destroy the red blood cells and can cause serious blood problems, including anemia. The effects of ingesting raisins and/or spices usually occur within 24 hours and include lack of appetite, lethargy, weakness, abdominal pain, diarrhea, and decreased urination.

Cooked turkey bones and gristle: Turkey bones splinter easily and can get caught in your cat’s throat or esophagus. They can also cause intestinal blockages or perforations leading to infection, while turkey gristle presents a clear and present choking hazard. To safeguard against these painful possibilities, all leftovers should be carefully wrapped and promptly disposed of.

Alcohol: To avoid intoxication and alcohol poisoning, keep all full glasses and half-filled glasses of wine or spirits out of reach of your cat’s curious nose and playful paws.
 
And yet, there’s no harm in providing your kitty with her own Thanksgiving feast, one that includes a few small, boneless pieces of cooked turkey, a taste of mashed potato or even a lick of pumpkin pie.
 
 

by Nomi Berger
 
Millions of cats go missing each year, and statistically, those without microchips have less than a 5% chance of being reunited with their families. Cats with microchips, on the other hand, are more than twenty times as likely to be returned to their owners.
 
Even the most vigilant owners can’t always keep their cats safe. While most indoor cats tend to remain inside, many may escape if someone opens a door at the wrong time or if they push through a loose window screen when something outside catches their eye. Being unfamiliar with their new surroundings, they, quite naturally, get scared and may not know how to find their way home.
 
While cat collars are a visible form of identification, they can either fall off accidentally or be removed intentionally. If your cat wears a collar, ensure they’re a breakaway type that won’t get caught on anything and injure her. But remember: as tags grow old, worn and faded, the information on them may become illegible, thereby rendering them impermanent forms of identification.
 
Microchipping is a simple and safe procedure. A veterinarian injects a microchip -- the size of a grain of rice -- beneath the surface of your cat’s skin between the shoulder blades. Similar to a routine shot, it takes only a few seconds and most cats don’t even feel it. A microchip is permanent and will last the life of your cat. Immediately following the procedure, your cat must be registered with the microchip company (usually for a one-time fee), thus storing her unique, alpha-numeric code in the company’s database.
 
Whenever a lost cat appears at a shelter, humane society or veterinary clinic, she will automatically be scanned for a microchip. If there is one, the screen of the handheld scanner will display that cat’s specific code. A simple call to the recovery database using a toll free 800 number enables the code to be traced back to the cat’s owner. But in order for the system to work efficiently, all owners are cautioned to keep their contact information up-to-date.
 
Since no method of identification is perfect, the best way for owners to protect their cats is to keep current ID tags on them, microchip them, and never allow them to roam free.

by Nomi Berger
 
It’s that time again. For goblins and ghosts, pumpkins and pranks, and things that go bump in the night. But as responsible cat guardians, please ensure that your cherished companions aren’t innocent victims of Halloween’s fun and frolics.
 
Consider the following suggestions to keep your cats safe not sorry.
 
1. Keep candy out of reach of your cats. Chocolate, especially dark or baking chocolate, can prove toxic for them. Candy containing the artificial sweetener, xylitol, can also cause dire problems. If you suspect that your sweeties may have ingested something toxic, please call your veterinarian or the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center at 1-888-426-4435 or the Pet Poison Hotline at 1-800-213-6680 (fees apply in both instances).
 
2. Although pumpkins’ outer shells and decorative corn are considered relatively non-toxic, they can still produce an upset stomach if copiously consumed rather than simply sampled.
 
3. Keep wires and cords from lights and other decorations safely out of reach. If chewed, your cats might be cut or burned or receive a potentially life-threatening electric shock.
 
4. Festive, carved pumpkins with candles inside can be easily knocked over by frisky felines and a fire started. Curious kittens in particular run the risk of being singed or burned by a candle flame. Either keep them unlit, out of reach, or keep an eye on your pets’ wandering whereabouts at all times.
 
5. Don’t dress up your darlings in a costume unless you know that they’re comfortable being decked out -- not stressed out -- by putting on the “glitz”. The safest, albeit less sassy alternative is to opt instead for a Halloween theme bandana draped round their necks.
 
6. Keep all but the most social cats in a separate room when “trick or treating” children come to call. Even then, take care that they don’t daringly dart outside when the door first opens.
 
7. Should your cats “pull a Houdini” and vanish into the night, ensure that they have either been micro-chipped or are wearing a collar and tags for proper identification and a swift return to your anxious arms.
 
With some strategic planning beforehand, you and your precious puss-in-boots can be assured of spending the safest and happiest of Halloweens -- together.

by Nomi Berger
 
Is your favorite feline finding it nearly im-paws-ible to jump to and from her most preferred perch? Is she meowing – as in “ouch!” -- after completing a once-easy jump even onto a couch or a chair? Is she suffering from arthritis or other joint problems, recovering from an injury or surgery, including the amputation of a leg? Is she losing her vision? Or is she simply aging? If any of these scenarios sounds achingly familiar, consider providing her with either a set of stairs or a ramp.
 
To conserve space, purchase a set of stairs instead of a ramp. Many are collapsible or easily transportable, allowing you to both move them when necessary and put them away. With a steeper incline, and shorter than a ramp, if your cat can manage them, they may be the most convenient option. Each individual step should be no more than 7 ½” tall and at least 10” deep since cats like having the space to maneuver. Most importantly, the top step should be no less than 7 1/2” shorter than the surface it leads to.
 
Buy a model with safety rails along the side of the stairs to stop your cat if she starts falling off. This is especially important if she’s losing or has already lost much of her sight. One obvious clue  -- since all vision-impaired animals will have long since memorized their surroundings – will be her tendency to bump into furniture more often, particularly if you’ve moved some of that furniture around.
 
While some cats – especially those who have never used stairs before -- are unlikely to use stairs if introduced to them late in life or if they already have trouble walking around, a ramp may prove to be the safest option. It usually helps to get your kitty accustomed to a ramp beforehand, so consider buying one as soon as she displays any mobility issues, such as walking less or displaying changes in her gait. And remember, any ramp you buy should be high enough to be level with its intended surface.
 
Purchase one with a gentler slope for older cats or those who are already severely impaired -- a low slope of 18 degrees is best. For cats whose difficulties are still moderate, a steeper one at 26 degrees may still be suitable. The best ramp is one covered in a non-looping, plush carpet. Not only does it provide traction, preventing your cat from falling off, her nails won’t get caught or stuck in a carpet with loops. One note of caution: buy a ramp for a chair, couch or bed, but NEVER buy a ramp leading UP, UP, UP to bookcases, closet shelves, high perches or windows.
 
Because ramps and steps are unfamiliar to most cats, it’s essential that you introduce yours slowly and patiently to them, preferably in a quiet space free from unwanted distractions. Begin by placing treats on the ramp or bottom step of the stairs to get her started. And although she may not do so immediately, put another treat in the middle of the ramp or stair. Once she’s actually on it, place more treats on top of the ramp or stairs, thereby teaching and encouraging her how to make her way up it. And since practice makes purr-fect, practice, practice, practice while continuing to pave her way to success with treat after treat after treat. Provide her with the gentle guidance and patient support she needs to keep her from rushing or jumping off, slipping or falling off until she’s fully confident, comfortable, and capable of safely ascending and descending the ramp or steps on her own.
 

by Nomi Berger
 
As creatures of habit who crave their creature comforts, cats don’t always make the best road trip companions. But by mapping out kitty’s trip together with your own, you can curtail her bad “backseat driver” behavior, and turn a potentially negative experience into a purr-fectly paws-itive one.
 
Consider the following suggestions to smooth the way for everyone – human and feline:
 
Remain calm. Because cats sense our stress, don’t raise your voice or display any overt signs of your own pre-trip tension.
 
Should your trip be longer than a day, make reservations ahead of time solely at pet-friendly motels or hotels.
 
Carry your most up-to-date vet paperwork, showing, at the very least, that your cat is current on her rabies shots.
 
Never medicate an overly anxious cat without first consulting your vet. Many OTC calming agents are dangerous for cats, and if you do use a medication prescribed by your vet, always try it out at home first to test for any reactions and/or side effects.
 
If your cat tends to get car sick, avoid feeding her between two and three hours prior to your departure.
 
Train your cat to wear a harness so that she can remain safely harnessed inside the car. Her harness should bear a name tag with all pertinent ID (microchipping is, of course, the best ID), and a leash should be clipped to it whenever you remove kitty from her carrier or from the car itself.
 
Have your cat travel comfortably by keeping her in a large carrier or dog crate, allowing her room enough to stretch and move around during the drive. Set the crate or carrier in a well-ventilated part of the car, out of excessive drafts and away from direct sunlight.
 
Drape a sheet over the crate or carrier, leaving one side open, to help her feel more snug, safe and secure.
 
Place a familiar blanket, several cushions, or a worn T-shirt with your scent on it inside the crate or carrier. Rotate various cat toys along the way (this works particularly well with a young kitten) to keep her stimulated and occupied.
 
Line the bottom with pee pads as a precaution and put a small, disposable litter pan (aluminum baking pans work well) inside the carrier or crate, and ensure you have a generous supply of both to last the entire trip. Stock up on sanitized wipes and strong plastic bags to handle any and all “litter box” accidents.
 
If your cat has an appetite, feed her the same food that she eats at home and keep her water bowl only partly filled to avoid spilling.
 
Never let your cat out of the car at “rest stops” unless she’s well trained to walk on a harness and leash. And above all, never leave kitty unattended -- on either hot or cold days.
 
As they say, forewarned is forearmed. Hopefully then, armed with these few tips, you and your cat can share a road trip to remember – fondly.

 by Nomi Berger
 
Picture yourself on a sweltering summer day wearing a long fur coat. Are you hot yet? Itchy? Thirsty? Desperately searching for shade?
 
Now picture your cats on that same summer day. And you’ll have some idea of how THEY feel.
 
Keeping cats cool and comfortable is essential to keeping them safe INside. Protecting them from the hot sun, hot air and hot ground is essential to keeping them safe OUTside. All it requires is common sense and some advance planning.
 
If you have air conditioning, cool down your place as much as possible before you leave for work/play/the day. Draw blinds/curtains and leave the air conditioning on low.
 
If you don’t have air conditioning, place fans in the windows and run them on “exhaust” to circulate the air without sucking in the hot air outside. Keep blinds/curtains drawn.
 
Freeze a bottle of water and place it IN your cat’s bed or place a package of frozen peas UNDER the covering of the bed.
 
Feeling extravagant? Purchase a cat bed that stays cool through low voltage electricity.
 
Store small plastic containers of water in the freezer overnight. Place the now-iced containers around your cat’s other favorite cuddling/napping spot(s).
 
Keep your cat’s food and water bowls out of any direct sunlight, and fill the water bowl with ice cubes to help it remain chilled for hours.
 
Keep activity to a minimum and discourage your cat from playing.
 
For those with a screened-in patio that their cat enjoys, put up shades on the sides that face the sun, set out several bowls of iced water and check on them throughout the day.
 
If gone for the day, consider keeping your cat in the bathroom to lie on the tiled floor or counter top or to curl up in the bathtub or sink.
 
If going on a road trip in a car without air conditioning, place a wet towel over your cat’s carrier or attach a small battery-operated fan to the outside of the carrier.
 
Fill the food and water cups inside the carrier with crushed ice for extra cooling, and use a spray bottle of cold water to occasionally wet your cat’s coat.
 
If traveling in a car WITH air conditioning, keep it on and ensure that the airflow reaches your cat’s carrier.
 
Never leave your cat tethered outside in the shade. As the day progresses and the light shifts, your cat will be directly exposed to the sun’s harmful rays and heat.
 
Never shave your cat’s fur as it offers SOME protection against sunburn. Pale and light-skinned cats MUST stay out of the sun because their ears and the tips of their noses are prone to skin cancer.
 
Never leave your cat in a parked car (even with the windows cracked) for even a few minutes. (Leaving the A/C on with the motor running is an environmental no-no). The inside of a car heats up quickly, making it much hotter than the air outside and can lead swiftly to heat stroke.
 
The symptoms of heat stroke include rapid panting, difficulty breathing, increased heart rate, erratic/wobbly walking, and redder than normal gums.
 
Should you observe any of these symptoms, wrap your cat in a cool, wet towel, and get to your veterinarian or to an animal hospital immediately.
 
Being a responsible cat guardian means being an informed cat guardian.
 
The list of safety rules may seem long, but the hot days of summer are even longer.
 
 

by Nomi Berger
 
As creatures of habit who crave their creature comforts, cats don’t always make the best road trip companions. But by mapping out kitty’s trip together with your own, you can curtail her bad “backseat driver” behavior, and turn a potentially negative experience into a purr-fectly paws-itive one.
 
Consider the following suggestions to smooth the way for everyone – human and feline:
 
Remain calm. Because cats sense our stress, don’t raise your voice or display any overt signs of your own pre-trip tension.
 
Should your trip be longer than a day, make reservations ahead of time solely at pet-friendly motels or hotels.
 
Carry your most up-to-date vet paperwork, showing, at the very least, that your cat is current on her rabies shots.
 
Never medicate an overly anxious cat without first consulting your vet. Many OTC calming agents are dangerous for cats, and if you do use a medication prescribed by your vet, always try it out at home first to test for any reactions and/or side effects.
 
If your cat tends to get car sick, avoid feeding her between two and three hours prior to your departure.
 
Train your cat to wear a harness so that she can remain safely harnessed inside the car. Her harness should bear a nametag with all pertinent ID (microchipping is, of course, the best ID), and a leash should be clipped to it whenever you remove kitty from her carrier or from the car itself.
 
Have your cat travel comfortably by keeping her in a large carrier or dog crate, allowing her room enough to stretch and move around during the drive. Set the crate or carrier in a well-ventilated part of the car, out of excessive drafts and away from direct sunlight.
 
Drape a sheet over the crate or carrier, leaving one side open, to help her feel more snug, safe and secure.
 
Place a familiar blanket, several cushions, or a worn T-shirt with your scent on it inside the crate or carrier. Rotate various cat toys along the way (this works particularly well with a young kitten) to keep her stimulated and occupied.
 
Line the bottom with pee pads as a precaution and put a small, disposable litter pan (aluminum baking pans work well) inside the carrier or crate, and ensure you have a generous supply of both to last the entire trip. Stock up on sanitized wipes and strong plastic bags to handle any and all “litter box” accidents.
 
If your cat has an appetite, feed her the same food that she eats at home and keep her water bowl only partly filled to avoid spilling.
 
Never let your cat out of the car at “rest stops” unless she’s well trained to walk on a harness and leash. And above all, never leave kitty unattended -- on either hot or cold days.
 
As they say, forewarned is forearmed. Hopefully then, armed with these few tips, you and your cat can share a road trip to remember – fondly.
 

by Nomi Berger
 
Notoriously inquisitive, known for nosing around indoors and out, cats continuously court disaster, and it’s incumbent upon their conscientious owners to keep them safe from harm.
 
That said, consider these seven backyard threats to your own kitty’s health and wellbeing.
 
Toxic Plants: Famously fond of chewing on plants, curious cats should never find these toxic plants in YOUR garden – azaleas, chrysanthemums, daffodils, foxgloves, gladioli, hydrangeas, irises, lilies, marigolds, tomato plants and tulips. For a more complete list of potentially lethal plants, please consult your vet.
 
Unlocked garages and sheds: Both are paw-tential “breeding grounds” for disaster -- from sharp tools when stepped on to toxic chemicals when ingested. If your house has a garage, a shed or both, ensure that they’re always closed and locked when not in use to keep your cat from wandering around them unsupervised. Make certain beforehand, though, that all of your tools have been safely stored away and that your cat isn’t hiding some place inside to keep her from being trapped there.
 
Uncovered swimming pools: Attempting to drink from an outdoor swimming pool can prove fatal to any curious cats should they fall into the water. To spare them this fate, either use a pool cover when the pool’s not in use or ensure that there’s a low edge to it. This way, cats can easily climb out if they happen to lose their balance and take a tumble.
 
Chemical herbicides: Far too many dedicated gardeners use chemicals -- herbicides and/or insecticides -- to keep their gardens free from unsightly weeds and plant-eating bugs. But these chemicals can make cats violently ill if licked, chewed and swallowed. The solution: if you do use such chemicals, restrict your cat’s access to the garden until they’re fully dried or, better still, switch to natural alternatives that are deemed safe for pets.
 
Rat poison and slug pellets: Not only is rodent poison fatal to rats and mice, it can also be fatal to cats -- if they ingest the poison itself or if they eat a poisoned rat. To keep your cat safe, avoid using rat poison in your own garden and speak with your neighbors about their own, possible use of this toxic substance. Slug pellets, shaped like small cylindrical bullets, can also be appealing to cats and should be replaced with harmless alternatives – from copper tape and egg shells to sea shells and recycled wool waste pellets.
 
Fruit stones from trees or plants: The downside of having fruit trees or fruit-bearing plants in your garden is how quickly they litter the ground with fruit stones, berries and seeds. If cats swallow a fruit stone, it can often cause an intestinal obstruction that, if not resolved promptly, can be fatal. In some cases, these stones, along with the berries and seeds, can also be toxic and should be removed from the ground on a regular basis.
 
Compost heaps: While cats may enjoy digging about in compost heaps, dangers lurk deep within them -- from sharp sticks, moldy food and coffee grounds to cat-toxic fruits and vegetables such as raisins, onions and avocados. If there’s a compost heap in your garden, enclose it with a pet-proof fence or use a specially designed bin to keep the compost safely out of reach of your cats’ paws and mouths.