by Nomi Berger
 
As unpleasant as the prospect may seem, planning for emergencies may mean the difference between life and death for the feline member(s) of your human family.
 
And while the ASPCA has designated September National Preparedness Month, all conscientious cat guardians should ALWAYS be prepared. Simply put: if a situation is dire for you, it’s equally dire for your cat.
 
If you live in an area prone to such natural disasters as tornadoes, earthquakes or floods, plan accordingly. Determine in advance which rooms are “safe” rooms -- easily cleaned areas like utility rooms, bathrooms and basements. Because access to fresh water is critical, fill bathtubs and sinks ahead of time in case of power outages or other crises. In the event of flooding, take shelter in the highest part of your home, preferably in a room with high counters or shelves for your cat to perch on.
 
When first alerted to the approach of severe weather -- and the possibility of eventual evacuation -- ensure that your car’s tank is full, all essential fluids are topped off, and a high power flashlight (with fresh batteries) is in the glove compartment. If you must evacuate, prepare for the worst-case scenario: think weeks, not days.
 
And being prepared includes a feline emergency evacuation kit equipped with a first aid kit; two weeks worth of canned (pop-top) cat food; bottles of water; food and water bowls; disposable litter box or a small plastic litter box; scoop-able litter and scoop or paper toweling; small plastic bags; brush and comb; hand sanitizer, liquid dish soap and disinfectant; treats, toys, towels and blankets.
 
Of critical importance are photocopies and/or USB of medical records and a waterproof container with a two-week supply of any medicine your cat requires (medications must be rotated out of the kit if close to their expiry dates); recent photos of your cat (should you be separated and have to print “Lost” posters); and an extra collar with updated ID tags, although microchipping your cat is the best precaution of all.
 
And, of course, a traveling bag, crate or carrier (if more than one cat -- ideally one for each) with complete contact information attached.
 
While ensuring your cat’s safety, ensure your safety and that of your family’s as well by putting your own emergency plan in place. Tailor your emergency “kit” to meet your own specific needs, but ensure that your car is equipped with: a first aid kit; several gallons of water; non perishable foods, protein bars, etc.; a cell phone with chargers; a battery operated radio; flashlights and batteries; a multi-purpose tool, duct tape, scissors and whistle; sanitation and personal hygiene items; hand sanitizers and baby wipes; protective clothing, footwear and emergency blankets; maps(s) of the area; extra money and medications; copies of personal documents (medication list and pertinent medical information, proof of address, deed/lease to home, passports, birth certificates, insurance policies); extra house and car keys, and family and emergency contact information.
 
Forewarned, as they say, is forearmed. And planning ahead helps cat guardians keep cool heads while keeping their cherished cats safe at the same time.

by Nomi Berger
 
Pregnant and wondering how to break the news to your kitty cat (who was there first?). Contrary to the fear that an addition to your human family may mean the loss of your feline one, there are many paws-itive ways to ease your cat’s stress, to assist her in welcoming the baby, and to ensure she remains an integral part of your soon-to-be expanded household.
 
If your cat has been the primary focus of your loving attention and affection, minimize her “natural” feelings of displacement by working with her before you bring your newborn home. Since your baby will demand most of your time and energy, accustom your cat to this inevitability by gradually spending less time with her. If she’s especially close to you, have other family members or close friends develop a stronger bond with her. This should reassure and assuage her (consistent praise and plenty of treats are, of course, essential), and prove to her that she is still loved, still safe and still secure.
 
To provide the smoothest of transitions, begin several months in advance by:
* Bringing your cat to the vet for a routine health exam and any necessary vaccinations.
* Consulting your vet and pediatrician if you’re nervous about the upcoming interactions between kitty and baby. By resolving
   these issues early, you’ll be putting your mind at ease.
* Seeking help from an animal behavioral specialist if your cat exhibits any unusual fears and anxieties.
* Redirecting all of your kitty’s “quirky” behaviors (from gentle nibbling to pouncing and swatting at you and others) to more
   appropriate objects.
* Getting your cat used to having her nails trimmed.
* Training your cat to remain calmly on the floor next to you until you invite her onto your lap – a lap that will soon cradle a
   newborn.
* Holding a “baby” doll to help your cat get used to being close to a real baby.
* Sprinkling baby powder or dabbing baby oil on your skin so that your kitty becomes familiar with these new and, hopefully,
   pleasant scents.
* Encouraging friends with infants to visit in order to acclimatize your cat to the actual presence of babies. 
* Accustoming your cat to baby-related noises and actions by, for example, playing tapes of an infant crying, rocking back and
   forth in your rocking chair (if you have one) and turning on the mechanical infant swing (if you have one). Make these
   positive experiences for your kitty by offering her treats and/or playtime.
* Discouraging your cat from jumping up onto the baby’s crib, changing table and other furniture by applying double-sided
   carpet tape to all readily accessible surfaces.
* Installing a removable gate to keep the baby’s room off limits to your kitty, while still allowing her to see and hear what’s
   happening inside. This will prevent her from feeling isolated from the family, while growing more comfortable with the many
   exciting changes taking place.

by Nomi Berger
 
Like people, pets deal with stress in their own particular way. Fear can turn any cat into a fraidy cat, instinctively triggering the fight, flight or freeze response in them. And while some fear-induced behaviors are acceptable and manageable, OVERLY anxious cats require assistance from their caring cat guardians in the form of training, patience, and, above all, love.
 
The signs that your cat is afraid include: running away, hiding, freezing in place, aggression (spitting, hissing, growling, swatting, biting, scratching, puffing fur and tail, arching back, swishing tail and flattening ears), losing control of her bladder or bowels, and refusing to use the litter box.
 
To reduce your frightened feline’s anxiety and to help her become more confident, begin by observing your kitty closely to determine the specific trigger(s) for her fearful behavior. Some of the most common triggers are the approach of a certain person or stranger, an active child or another animal, a new environment and loud noises.
 
Next, bring your cat to the vet for a thorough physical examination to rule out any medical causes for her behavior. Cats don’t always “act” ill, even when they are, and any sudden behavioral changes may signal that your cat is, in fact, sick. These changes can include hiding, eliminating outside the litter box, and aggressiveness.
 
If your cat is, thankfully, healthy but still hiding, simply leave her alone. She’ll come out of her hiding place when she’s ready, whereas forcing her to come out will have the reverse effect, and make her even more fearful. Ensure that she has easy access to her bowls of food and water, and her litter box. Change the food and water, and clean the litter box every day to ascertain whether or not she’s eating, drinking and eliminating.
 
Keep all contact with her specific “fear stimulus” to a minimum while keeping her routine as consistent as possible. Cats feel more confident if they know when to expect their daily feeding and playing, cuddling and grooming.
 
Then work to de-sensitize your cat to the object of her fear by following these steps:
* Determine the distance between your cat and that negative stimulus (be it a person or another pet) at which she seems most comfortable, without responding fearfully.
* Introduce the two at precisely this distance while feeding your cat tasty treats and lavishing her with praise.
* Slowly narrow the gap between you, while continuing to praise your cat and to offer her treats.
* If, at any time, your cat exhibits some fearful behavior, you’ve proceeded too quickly and must begin again – from the beginning.
* To avoid this, work in short sessions only, paying close attention to your cat’s signals, and, essentially, following her lead.
 
Whatever else you do, do NOT punish your cat for her fearful behavior. Because animals associate punishment with what they’re doing AT THE TIME they’re being punished, your cat is likely to associate the punishment with YOU. The result? She will become fearful of YOU without ever understanding WHY she’s being punished.
 
Never force your cat to “experience” the source of her fear. Example? If she’s afraid of a particular person, don’t let that person attempt to pick her up and hold her. This will only make your cat MORE afraid of that person.
 
And, most importantly, take care when handling your cat when she’s frightened. She may accidentally direct her aggression toward you.
 
Should you find yourself growing frustrated at the slow pace of your progress, don’t hesitate to seek help from an animal-behavior specialist.
 

by Nomi Berger

Question: Why are kittens born in litters?
 
Answer: To be nourished and nurtured, socialized and stimulated.
 
Question: Why should kittens be adopted in pairs?
 
Answer: To KEEP them socialized and stimulated, and to satisfy their innate curiosity.
 
From birth, close interaction with their mother and littermates allow kittens to mature into sociable and well-adjusted, healthy and happy cats. While separating kittens from their mother is often essential for the purpose of adoption, separating them too early from their littermates can delay their development emotionally, socially, and sometimes physically.
 
Nothing compares with companionship when it comes to keeping kittens on their paws and on their best behavior. It’s decidedly the best deterrent to destructive, sometimes dangerous, mischief born out of boredom. A lone, bored kitten will often “entertain” herself by (among other things) chewing on plants and electrical cords, climbing curtains and furniture, unrolling toilet paper and unraveling clothes. Although a second feline friend doesn’t guarantee absolute abstinence from such amusement, playing and pouncing, tumbling and tussling will, most often, be their mutual activities of choice.
 
Consider the term “copycat.” Kittens learn by copying, and having two kittens allows them to self-train. Examples? If one kitten is adept at learning appropriate litter box use, the other is certain to follow. They will also help each other with grooming, and “washing up” after eating will quickly become a ritual.
 
Due to their natural “hunting” instincts, kittens are extremely active at night. A solitary kitten is more likely to practice her skills on her sleeping human, using any arm, leg or body movement beneath the covers as an open invitation to jump on what she considers prey. With a companion to engage her in kitty cat cavorting and shadow chasing until they too grow tired and fall sleep, cat guardians can enjoy their own good night’s rest, undisturbed.
 
Kittens, by nature, love to bite and wrestle with one another. In the absence of another kitten’s company, cat guardians will, all too often, become their kittens’ biting and wrestling “surrogates”. If they encourage this tomfoolery, and actively engage in their kittens’ antics, they are then, inadvertently, acting as their kittens’ enablers. The result? Mature cats that consider biting and scratching as acceptable forms of play.
 
The second best reason to adopt a pair of kittens: you are saving, not one life, but two.

by Nomi Berger
 
Cat guardians may only see them when their favorite felines yawn or throw hissy fits, but they’re there. Your cat’s teeth!
 
Thirty to be precise, in any cat older than 6 months: four molars, ten pre-molars, four canines and twelve incisors. Unlike a person’s teeth with their focus on chewing, a pussycat’s teeth focus heavily on grinding and chopping.
 
Needless to say, your cat needs clean, sharp teeth and healthy gums. Damage to the tongue and teeth, palate and gums can pose numerous health risks to them, most of which can be prevented by regular home check-ups, including brushing. (Signs of possible dental problems include excessive pawing at the mouth area, excessive drooling, difficulty chewing food, and pus).
 
To accustom your cat to having her teeth brushed, begin by gently massaging her gums with your finger or lightly touching them with a cotton swab. After several sessions, dab a small amount of specially cat-formulated toothpaste on her lips to get her used to the taste. Next, use a toothbrush specifically designed for cats or one that can be worn over your finger. Apply the toothpaste to her teeth and brush them gently.
 
Besides brushing, chew toys will satisfy your cat’s natural desire to chomp, while also strengthening her teeth. Gnawing on a chew toy will also help floss her teeth, massage her gums, and scrape away soft tartar.
 
To determine the overall health of your cat’s mouth, face your feline, gently push back her lips and study her gums, which should be firm and pink without signs of swelling, while her teeth should be clean, neither loose nor broken, and free of any brownish, hardened tartar.
 
Conditions requiring a prompt visit to the vet include:
Gingivitis: This inflammation of the gums occurs mainly in older cats, often accompanied by an abnormally strong mouth odor, and may start as a dark red line along the gums bordering the teeth. If left untreated, the gums may become sore and ulceration may occur. This condition may also be a sign of FIV or other infections.
Periodontitis: If gingivitis invades the tooth socket, the tooth may become loose and an abscess may form.
Stomatitis: This inflammation of the mouth lining can be caused by the presence of a foreign object, a viral disease or dental problems. Your cat will have difficulty eating and the inside of her mouth will appear red.
Rodent ulcer: This is a slowly enlarging sore or swelling on the upper lip.
Salivary cyst: When salivary glands or ducts carrying saliva to the mouth become blocked, a cyst may form under the tongue.
Mouth ulcers: Ulcers on a cat’s tongue and gums can be caused by feline respiratory or kidney disease.
 
If you’ve been neglecting your cat’s dental health up to now, it is never too late to start.