by Nomi Berger
 
Two questions for feline fanciers: “How high can cats jump?” and “How do they do it?”
 
Have you ever been utterly fascinated by the sight of your own kitties leaping effortlessly onto a windowsill or scaling a tall bookshelf in mere seconds? If so, you’ve probably wondered why these “furry acrobats” jump so much and just how they accomplish these feline feats.
 
According to animal behaviorists, jumping isn’t simply an amusing pastime for them. It’s an integral part of the way they explore their surroundings and remain active. From navigating their environment to satisfying their innate hunting instincts and engaging in play, cats rely on their strong sense of balance, powerful hind legs and flexible spine, allowing them to jump vertically up to 8 or 9 feet. And since the average housecat measures about 18 inches long, this means they can jump about five to six times their body length in that single vertical leap!
 
Before your own kitty jumps, you’ll often see her crouch down, in essence, loading her spring-like hind legs with energy for the leap. After launching herself upwards, her flexible spine enables her to adjust herself in midair. Pay close attention and you’ll often see her tail move as she lands, acting as a counterbalance to keep her steady on her feet.
 
Some of the most common reasons that housecats jump include:
· Seeking tall “vantage” points: this behavior is derived from their predator-prey instincts. Being high up permits them to watch for “prey” while also allowing them to keep an eye out for “predators.”
· Hunting: pouncing on “prey” is an important part of the hunting process.
· Playing: jumping for wand toys or toy mice mimics actual hunting and provides them with much-needed physical exercise and mental stimulation.
 
Just as people have different athletic abilities, not all housecats possess the same jumping prowess. Some of the most common factors that impact their jumping skills include:
· Age: senior cats (those 7 years old and older) may be less motivated to jump up to a higher vantage point due to reduced muscle mass, discomfort or other health concerns.
· Body conditions: arthritic and obese housecats and those with extremely weak muscles will see their jumping abilities greatly reduced.
· Breed: Some small cat breeds, particularly those with proportionally shorter legs, like Munchkins, will, naturally, have a more limited vertical jump than athletic cats with longer bodies and legs, like Abyssinians.
 
Sadly, however, cats can often jump up into danger: onto countertops with food that’s toxic to them, onto a hot stove or onto a shelf that can’t quite hold their weight. You, as a pet parent, can discourage your own cat from jumping onto risky spaces by offering her safe and sturdy alternatives. Consider anchoring a tall, well-built cat tree to one of your walls or mounting a series of cat shelves onto a wall as safe places to perch. These features can also help “fraidy” cats gain more confidence in jumping, while helping them exercise and, over time, build up both their skill and their muscles.
 
Keeping your kitty from becoming bored is another way to reduce her jumping. Playing with her several times a day and providing her with interactive toys and puzzle feeders are purr-fect ways to keep her mentally stimulated and physically satisfied – and away from paw-tential danger.

by Nomi Berger
 
Do you have images of bygone days when a cat was always lapping up milk from a bowl? Have you ever wondered if milk is even good for cats? If so, the short answer is “no.”
 
Cow’s milk isn’t good for cats for several reasons. The most important reason being that, as cats mature they produce less lactase, the enzyme needed to properly digest milk. Like so many people with the same condition, these cats are referred to as being lactose intolerant.
 
Without lactase, the undigested milk sugar, lactose, passes through these cats’ intestinal tracts, and as it does, it pulls water into their intestines. This excessive amount of water can result in diarrhea, while bacteria in their colons consume a large influx of sugars, resulting in gas. All of this can trigger vomiting, diarrhea and abdominal pain.
 
Any cats showing signs of vomiting, diarrhea and gas within 12 hours of drinking milk are, in all probability, lactose intolerant. Most will bounce back from mild lactose intolerance within 24 hours. But if they’re feeling sick for longer than 24 hours, are vomiting to the point where they can’t keep down water or are especially lethargic, it’s essential to seek prompt veterinary care.
 
Not all cats, though, are lactose intolerant. Can they, then, drink milk? Sadly, the answer is still “no.” Cow’s milk contains quite a lot of fat and many (perhaps even most) cats are prone to obesity. Permitting them to drink milk on a regular basis adds fats and sugars to their diet and almost guarantees that they will become dangerously overweight. If, however, your own cat loves milk and isn’t lactose intolerant, a teaspoon of milk once or twice a week is unlikely to harm her.
 
As to drinking milk alternatives: if cow’s milk is off-limits, can you share your favorite plant or nut-based milk with your cat? Unfortunately, oat milks, soy milks, almond milks and coconut milks aren’t the best of ideas. Why? Some of these milks can be high in fat and cause your cat to become overweight. Some contain sugars, oils and thickeners that can be very hard to digest and lead to gastrointestinal upset. Some contain additives and preservatives that may prove difficult for cats to digest. Some contain added salt. And while a bit of salt isn’t necessarily bad, if your kitty’s prone to hypertension or renal disease, it’s never a good idea to add more salt to her diet.
 
Kittens, on the other hand, can happily drink milk without any signs of gastrointestinal distress. But they can only drink milk produced by female cats, not milk from other species such as cows, sheep or goats. This is due to the fact that kittens are born with the full ability to process cat milk. But as they’re weaned and begin eating the food that they’ll consume as adults, they start losing the ability -- and the enzymes -- to successfully process cat milk: at around 8 weeks of age.
 
There are, however, some commercial products that have been designed to mimic cat milk as closely as possible, such as PetAg KMR liquid milk supplement and PetAg KMR powder milk supplement. These, according to veterinary experts, are the only kind of “milk” products suitable for orphaned kittens and those requiring additional supplementation.
 

by Nomi Berger

Quite a mouthful: superfecundation!

What could it paws-ibly mean? In reference to female cats, fecundity is their ability to produce a large number of offspring. A fecund cat is fertile and capable of giving birth to many kittens. An intact female cat, known as a “queen”, can have either a large litter at one time or a frequent number of litters.

Superfecundation refers to a queen being impregnated by multiple intact males or “toms” and bringing her kittens (from different fathers) to term during the same pregnancy. The result: littermates who bear little or no resemblance to one another and who may only be half-sisters and half-brothers.

Female cats are known as “induced ovulators,” which means that eggs are only released from their ovaries after they’ve mated. Because of this, each ovary may release eggs during separate matings, increasing the probability of multiple fertilizations. Once ovulation has occurred, females will go out of heat within a day or two. An intact female will first go into heat at about six months old and her pregnancy will last for approximately 64 to 71 days, with an average of 65 days (nine weeks). Each heat usually lasts several days, with the average length being seven days. If an intact female hasn’t mated with an intact male when she’s fertile, she’ll go out of heat for a period of time ranging from two to 19 days.

A fertile intact female cat may produce six kittens in a litter, but a particularly fecund one may produce 30 kittens per year for six years or more, reaching as many as 180 kittens in her lifetime. An intact male cat with high fecundity, on the other hand, can father thousands of kittens during his lifetime!

Although more common among intact outdoor and feral cats, intact indoor/outdoor female cats and indoor ones living with intact males are equally at risk of having unwanted, multiple pregnancies. The most notable signs of females being in heat are behavioral. They become very affectionate, even demanding, persistently rubbing against their owners or furniture, and constantly wanting attention. They roll around on the floor more often and become more vocal. When stroked along the spine or back, they will raise their rear quarters into the air and tread with their back legs.

Some will urinate more frequently or spray urine on aka marking vertical objects. Their urine contains pheromones and hormones that signal their reproductive state, thereby attracting any intact males in the house – creating the “purr-fect storm” for copulation. Should these intact females venture outside, they’re certain to mate with one or more intact males in the area before coming back home.

The only solution to the twin problems of unwanted, multiple litters and cat overpopulation is spaying and neutering intact female and male cats. Most veterinarians recommend having females spayed before the age of five months, while kittens as young as eight weeks old can safely be neutered or spayed. Most cats will return to normal within three days following the procedure, with their healing complete within two weeks.

by Nomi Berger
 
Cats who appear to eat better in the company of people are commonly referred to as “affection eaters.”
 
Why, you may wonder? If so, paw-lease consider the five reasons below.
Their instinct for safety: Our domesticated cats’ wild ancestors always ate in groups as a way of protecting themselves from predators. Your own cat may feel that same sense of vulnerability when she eats and is seeking out your presence to reassure and protect her, thereby enabling her to feel safer.

Learned behavior: If your cat was either hand-fed or given constant attention as a kitten while eating, she may have understandably grown accustomed to having you nearby at mealtimes.

Social bonding: Your cat may not only enjoy your company, she may see you as her most trusted companion, making mealtime the purr-fect time for you to spend together.

Need for encouragement: Your cat may be one of those who insists on being petted while she eats or needs further encouragement to eat such as hearing her kibble dish rattle, having her food brought to her or even being spoon fed.

Fear: If she’s new to your household, your cat may, reasonably and naturally, be reacting to the loss of her previous home and/or human companions, much the way stressful situations can make people lose their appetite.
 
Help your cat adjust and eat comfortably by following the suggestions below.

If your cat is indeed new to your household, provide her with a room of her own for several days. This “safe” space should have a litter box at one end of the room and food, water, play toys and a cosy bed as far from the litter box as possible. Visit your cat at regular intervals, sit quietly on the floor, and when she feels relaxed enough to come to you, respond by speaking softly to her and gently petting her.

Not only are these regular visits and displays of affection vital for you both to bond, interactive playtime is the next step in ensuring that your cat relaxes even more. Why? Exercise has stress-reducing properties for cats just as it does for people.
Once she’s safely incorporated into your life, carefully monitor her eating. Always feed her a measured amount of food on a schedule, so that you can tell if and how much she’s eating.

Make certain that her food is always fresh and never stale: this can contribute to picky eating. Discard all uneaten food in between meals and thoroughly wash her food bowl every day.

Some cats don’t like deep or narrow bowls because they tend to touch or press against their whiskers. A shallow bowl or plate is best.

Some cats prefer food that is “served” at room temperature or slightly warmed. Yours will let you know soon enough!
If your cat isn’t eating well or isn’t eating at all, please contact your veterinarian immediately.

For the most part, though, your “affection eater” will thrive once she settles into your home -- thanks to your patient understanding, loving attention and a reassuring routine.

by Nomi Berger
 
Although meat-based protein forms the foundation of their diet, superfoods’ many benefits include boosting cats’ energy levels, improving their digestion, strengthening their immune systems, supporting their joints and enhancing their coats.
 
Consider, then, these ten superfoods.
 
1. Salmon: Salmon is an excellent source of omega-3 fatty acids, known for their anti-inflammatory properties. They promote skin health, improve the coat’s shine and support heart and joint health, making salmon especially beneficial for older cats or those with arthritis. Serve ONLY cooked boneless salmon to your cat.
 
2. Pumpkin: Pumpkin is rich in dietary fiber, which is excellent for regulating digestion. It also contains vitamin A, which supports healthy vision, and antioxidants that help fight off free radicals. Use only PLAIN cooked pumpkin or canned pumpkin puree and mix it into your cat’s food.
 
3. Blueberries: Blueberries contain the antioxidants, vitamins C and K. They support urinary tract health, boost immune system function and improve cognitive function, particularly in older cats. Use thoroughly washed small, mashed blueberries as a treat or mix them into your cat’s food.
 
4. Eggs: Eggs are rich in protein and essential amino acids that maintain strong muscles and tissues. They also contain essential fatty acids, vitamins B2, B6 and B12, and biotin, which support healthy skin and shiny coats. Serve only COOKED eggs to your cat.
 
5. Spinach: Spinach is high in vitamins A, C and K, minerals, iron and magnesium. It also contains antioxidants and anti-inflammatory properties, beneficial to cats with kidney disease, while supporting heart and immune health and vision. Lightly steam the spinach and feed it in moderation to your cat.
 
6. Chicken Liver: Chicken liver contains vitamins A and B, iron, and folate, which supports healthy blood cells, vision, immune function and overall vitality. But, due to its high vitamin A content, cooked chicken liver should only be fed occasionally in small portions, either mixed into your cat’s food or as a treat.
 
7. Coconut Oil: Coconut oil excels as a source of healthy fats, especially medium-chain triglycerides, which provide a quick energy boost, improve digestion, promote shiny coats, help with dry or itchy skin and help control hairballs. Begin by mixing a small amount of coconut oil into your cat’s food and monitor her for any digestive issues since some cats don’t tolerate it well.
 
8. Sardines: Sardines, a natural source of omega-3 fatty acids, are also rich in proteins, calcium and vitamins D and B12, which support bone, heart, joint and brain health and help increase energy production. After checking carefully for bones, serve your cat ONLY sardines packed in water (not oil or brine), without any added salt.
 
9. Sweet Potatoes: Sweet potatoes are rich in dietary fiber, which helps regulate digestion and in beta-carotene, which is converted into vitamin A to support healthy vision. They also contain vitamins and antioxidants that can help boost the immune system. Cook the sweet potatoes thoroughly and mash them before serving them to your cat.
 
10. Kale: Kale contains vitamins A, C and K, calcium, copper, potassium and iron. It also contains antioxidants that protect against cell damage and maintain healthy bones and muscles, and fiber that helps digestion, while its anti-inflammatory properties can be beneficial for cats with arthritis or other inflammatory conditions. Lightly steam or cook the kale before serving it to your cat.
 
Superfoods, however, should only comprise a small portion of your cat’s diet. And please consult with your vet first to ensure that any new food is both safe and suitable for her specific needs.

by Nomi Berger
 
Felines are famous for being fastidious. They not only groom themselves regularly, they have very specific demands regarding their litter boxes. And yet, some cats develop the perplexing habit of playing with their poop.
 
Why, you wonder? Consider these paws-ible reasons:
 
They’re bored: Some cats will play with their poop as if it’s a toy. Born of sheer boredom, they behave this way either because they don’t have enough toys or because they aren’t interacting satisfyingly with their owners or the other kitty members of their household. Purchase more toys for your cats to play with on their own and keep them actively engaged more often by using interactive toys together. The more play time they get, the less likely they are to be bored.
 
Their litter box is dirty: Scrupulously clean themselves, cats count on their owners to keep their litter box equally clean. Pick up all solids whenever you see them and scoop up all wet, clumped litter every day. Wash the litter box thoroughly each week to rid it of any crusted litter or extraneous litter contents. Not only will this satisfy your cats’ need for cleanliness, it will keep them from using their poop as a plaything.
 
Their litter box (and/or litter) isn’t right: Contented cats are less likely to either make a mess or play with their poop. First, this means ensuring their litter box is large enough: it should be one and a half times the length of the cat. Second, this means choosing a litter that your cats like. With various types of litter available, finding one that wins a paw’s up of approval from them is essential.
 
Their litter box is in the wrong position: In a multi-cat household, you need one litter box per cat, plus one, suitably positioned to ensure that your cats not only use them but use them appropriately. Ideally, they should be placed in quiet areas with at least one side against a wall so that your cats don’t feel “exposed.” Experiment by moving the litter boxes around, making certain to permit your cats easy access to them in order to prevent accidents outside the boxes.
 
They like the smell: Your cats may be playing with their poop because they find the smell quite pleasing. Perhaps it’s some protein or other nutrients they detect, leading them to sniff and investigate the source of that scent. While sniffing their poop may be mildly acceptable, never encourage or allow your cats to actually play with their poop.

by Nomi Berger
 
Are you familiar with the sight of your favorite felines perched near a window and … chirping? Not meowing, but chirping at a bird or birds? Have you ever wondered why they’re chirping? If so, consider these five paws-ible explanations for their behavior.
 
1. They’re mimicking the birds: Being natural-born hunters, it’s plausible that their chirping is a form of imitation or mimicking. This trickery was used both by their ancestors and by large cats in the wild to entice their prey into coming closer. Despite the fact that your kitties can’t capture the birds they see outside, their instincts allow them to feel as if they themselves are indeed “on the hunt.”
 
2. They’re extremely excited: What’s more exhilarating than chasing after a toy bird dangling at the end of a wand toy? Seeing a real bird with real feathers! It’s tantalizing enough to figuratively make their mouth water! Spotting a bird – what they consider prey -- outside could be garnering an involuntary reaction that, without the prey in their mouth, results in that, chirp, chirp, chirping sound.
 
3. They’re frustrated: The fact that they’re indoors and the birds are outdoors may cause the thwarted hunter in your cats to chirp out of frustration. It’s the equivalent of humans “letting off steam” and is no cause for concern or alarm. Exasperated at being unable to leap from the window and chase after the tempting prey they’ve spotted, the most they can do to mollify themselves is chirp.
 
4. They’ve activated the prey sequence: Common in domesticated and wild cats, the initial step is watching their prey with anticipation, during which chirping occurs. The next steps include stalking or chasing, pouncing and then, finally, delivering the killer bite. Although indoor cats can’t complete the entire sequence, the fact that they’ve spotted a bird outside has at least satisfied part of their primal instincts.
 
5. They’re mimicking the killer bite: Some experts believe that the chirping of indoor cats doesn’t mimic the birds but rather the killer bite they use when successfully capturing their prey. While repugnant to some pet parents, it’s normal for them, and discouraging this behavior can leave them feeling frustrated or anxious with no outlet for their pent-up kitty energy. They may even act aggressively towards you, your family and/or other pets in your household. In short, for truly happy indoor cats, chirping at birds should be encouraged.
 
To encourage your own kitty’s innate prey drive, provide her with a safe place to view the outdoors, play with her several times a day, particularly before meals, use chaser and wand toys to promote her hunting skills and use stimulating food puzzles to engage her mind at feeding times.

by Nomi Berger
 
The feline parvovirus or feline panleukopenia is a disease that’s most common and most severe in kittens and can, all too often, be fatal.
 
At birth, kittens typically receive antibodies from their mother, which protect them for the first few weeks. By the age of 4 to 12 weeks, however, this protection wanes, and the kittens become vulnerable to the virus. Because the virus is widespread throughout the environment and can survive in it for months, nearly all cats are exposed to it. Not surprisingly then, both sick cats and unvaccinated cats are the ones most likely to contract this disease.
 
The feline parvovirus attacks the cells in a cat’s intestines, causing diarrhea, vomiting, difficulty eating and difficulty drinking. It also attacks the bone marrow, resulting in shortages of red blood cells, white blood cells and platelets. This potentially deadly virus is found in the nasal secretions, stool and urine of cats with the disease, called carrier cats, anywhere from two days to six weeks, contaminating everything from their cages and bedding, to dishes and the hands and clothes of their “people.” Even fleas from infected cats can infect otherwise healthy cats. Common, as well, is cat-to-cat passage of the feline parvovirus, which is more likely to occur in multi-cat households, animal shelters, pet shops and any other places where several cats live together.
 
Ironically, the feline parvovirus doesn’t always cause symptoms. Some cats can have the infection, exhibit no visible signs of it whatsoever and then die suddenly because the disease progressed so severely and so rapidly. But, for all concerned kitty owners, the usual symptoms of infected cats are: decreased appetite, depression and lethargy, diarrhea, which may be watery or bloody, fever in the early stages, followed by a low body temperature, frothing at the mouth or vomiting and watery discharge from the nose.
 
Some or all of these symptoms in your kitten or cat, coupled with a history of exposure and not having been vaccinated make this disease frighteningly likely, and merits an immediate visit to the vet. Stool samples and blood tests will promptly be taken and sent to a lab. The lab may identify the virus in your kitten or cat’s stool while the blood tests would show a reduced number of all cell types (pancytopenia), a characteristic of the disease.
 
Sadly, no medications, at this time, are capable of killing the virus. Good supportive care with intravenous fluids, nutrients, and antibiotics to prevent secondary bacterial infection may help your kitten or cat survive. While kittens have high mortality rates, older cats have a better chance of surviving this insidious disease.
 
Given that the most effective way of protecting your kitten is by vaccination, your vet will usually advise you to begin at 8 or 9 weeks of age, with two or three doses administered three to four weeks apart. The last of these should not be before the age of 16 weeks, while a follow-up dose is now being recommended at 26 to 52 weeks. As for adult cats, they must receive regular booster doses of the vaccine (both live and “killed” vaccines are available and are very effective).
 
Should any of your cats be infected with the virus, they must be isolated from any other cats in a multi-cat home. Their litter boxes must be cleaned and disinfected regularly and you must disinfect your entire home to keep your other pets safe. If your other cats aren’t vaccinated, they, too, are at a high risk of infection.
 
As the old adage advises: An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.

by Nomi Berger
 
Does your favorite feline have a belly that sways from side to side? Could it be … fat?
 
According to veterinarians, it’s not fat at all! It’s a primordial pouch: a loose flap comprised of a mixture of fat, skin and fur on the underside of a cat that hangs between her midsection and hind legs and feels floppy to the touch. Although it may look as if an overweight cat who recently lost weight retained the extra skin, that so-called extra skin has less to do with her condition and more to do with genetics.
 
While all cats have primordial pouches, they vary in size depending on each individual kitty. Cats start developing these telltale stomach pouches during kittenhood, usually around 6 months of age. And, perhaps most fascinating of all is the fact that “big cats” a.k.a. lions and tigers have them as well!
 
Even experts can only theorize as to the purpose of these legendary pouches. Protection: a primordial pouch might shield a cat’s vital organs during rough activities and/or fights. Flexibility: it might allow a cat’s abdomen to stretch during movement, making her even more agile. Food storage: it might help accommodate larger meals when she eats a great deal at once. Heat regulation: it might be of assistance in temperature control by allowing air to circulate more effectively. Then again, the primordial pouch may merely be an evolutionary trait left over from a cat’s wild ancestors.
 
No matter how large or small your own kitty’s swaying belly flap is, having a primordial pouch isn’t an indication of her overall health or whether she’s either underweight or overweight. Like people, a cat’s skin tends to sag, stretch and lose elasticity with age, leading inevitably to a belly that seems to sway more as she matures into a senior cat.
 
If you’re still unsure as to whether you’re seeing your kitty’s primordial pouch or fat, consider the following advice to help you differentiate between the two. Focus less on the size of your cat’s belly flap and more on her body condition score (BCS), a visual tool used by veterinarians to determine if a cat is at her ideal weight. Begin by looking down at her from above. Healthy cats will have noticeable waistlines whereas overweight ones won’t.
 
Then, run your fingers gently across her ribs. If she’s at an ideal weight, her ribs should feel similar to when your knuckles are being rubbed on an open palm. If she’s overweight, you’ll feel a pronounced layer of fat covering her ribs. If she’s underweight, however, her ribs may feel prominent, much the way the backs of your knuckles feel when you make a fist.
 
While helping your cat shed some excess pounds won’t make her primordial pouch smaller, helping her maintain a healthy weight through a balanced diet and regular exercise will help prevent an accumulation of unwanted fat. If, however, you’re either uncertain as to whether your cat’s at a healthy weight or want advice to help her reach her ideal weight, reach out to your vet.

by Nomi Berger
 
Curious as to why a cat’s tongue feels surprisingly like sandpaper, so rough and so scratchy, when you’re the recipient of some loving licks?
 
If so, examine the topside of your kitty’s tongue up close and purr-sonal and you’ll see what look like teeny, tiny spikes covering a good portion of it. These are called papillae – pointy, curved cones comprised of keratin, the same material that makes up our human fingernails. According to veterinarians, in cats, they’re known as filiform papillae since the “spines” face towards the back of their mouths.
 
This rough texture helps cats groom themselves so skillfully, drink water and eat food so efficiently, and socialize and communicate so effectively. (While it’s usually harmless when your kitty licks you, if her licking becomes excessive, provide her with lick mats as an alternative).
 
Grooming: cats spend 30% to 50% of their day grooming themselves, and the papillae on their tongues can reach all the way down to their skin. This allows them to detangle their fur, remove loose fur, debris, dust and other particles from their coat and help evenly distribute their body’s oils across their coat, keeping it shiny and smooth. Their tongues also act as a form of temperature control. Since papillae are hollow, they suck up saliva that is then deposited in their fur while they’re grooming, and when that saliva evaporates, it helps keep them cool.
 
Drinking: cats, like dogs, lack the ability to suction water into their mouths. But unlike dogs accustomed to scooping up water with the tips of their tongues, cats extend their tongues to just touch the water’s surface and then deftly and swiftly flick them back in. Water adheres to the top of their tongues, thanks to the papillae, and is pulled into their mouths without even breaking the surface of the water.
 
Eating: purr-fectly suited as efficient eating “utensils,” the papillae on their tongues helped cats in the wild wipe clean the bones of their prey and moved that food towards the back of their mouths. Even if our domesticated cats’ form of “hunting” is finding some long-forgotten treats behind a sofa or a chair, their papillae-covered tongues will ensure that they thoroughly enjoy them down to the very last crumb.
 
Communicating and socializing: cats use licking as a way of bonding both with their fellow felines and with members of their human family – as cat owners already know. But they also use their tongues to understand the world around them, particularly where pheromones (chemical signals released by other cats) and fascinating scents of all kinds are concerned, by opening their mouths, sticking out their tongues slightly, and inhaling!