by Nomi Berger
 
When dead skin cells accumulate on a cat’s skin, hair follicles or coat, it’s known as a condition called seborrhea, or simply put, dandruff.
 
Presenting as small white flakes or flecks that appear throughout her fur or attached to her skin, they may be visible in specific areas -- most commonly at the base of her tail or hind end – or everywhere on her body. Oftentimes these flakes are accompanied by such skin irritations as redness, scabbing or lesions. 
 
The most common causes of cat dandruff include:
· Allergies: from fleas and food to genetics and the environment
· External parasites on the skin: fleas, mites and ticks
· Hormonal issues: diabetes mellitus or hyperthyroidism  
· Internal parasites: coccidia, giardia and worms
· Malnutrition or poor diet: diets lacking in omega-3 fatty acids
· Obesity: overweight cats find grooming themselves difficult
· Orthopedic diseases like arthritis: pain can deter cats from adequately grooming themselves
· Temperature changes or changes in the humidity
 
While stress may be a culprit, dandruff may also be a symptom of a more concerning medical condition that requires a visit to the vet.
 
Your vet will begin by reviewing your kitty’s medical history and then perform a thorough examination on her. To determine if the dandruff is the result of some underlying condition, the following tests may be ordered:
· Full blood work: complete blood count, serum chemistry, thyroid levels and electrolytes to check for any systemic disease
· Fecal testing: to check for an intestinal parasite infection that can cause dry skin and a poor haircoat
· Skin scraping or hair plucking: to check for fleas, lice, mites or ticks
· Skin culture: to check for either bacteria or ringworm on her skin
 
If nothing reveals an obvious underlying medical condition, your vet might suggest changing your cat’s diet, changing or improving your environment (proper temperature/humidity) and her grooming habits as well as providing her with either holistic or feline-specific supplements designed to treat the dandruff. Anti-seborrheic shampoos and topical treatments such as Douxo-S3 or DermaBenSs can also be helpful. Should there be little or no improvement in her condition over time, oral antibiotics, steroids and/or immunosuppressive medications may have to be considered.
 
If a food allergy is suspected, your vet may recommend changing your kitty to a novel protein -- duck, whitefish, venison or rabbit -- diet or to a hypoallergenic diet. Brushing and flea prevention are also recommended, particularly for indoor/outdoor cats and those who can’t groom themselves properly because of arthritis or obesity.
 
However, if your cat’s dandruff not only lasts for weeks but is accompanied by scabbing, itching, behavioral changes, decreased appetite, lethargy or vomiting, or if you see fleas, mites or ticks on her skin, schedule an immediate appointment with your vet.

by Nomi Berger

Thanksgiving is a festive time, filled with feasting, family, and friends. But it’s also a time of potential distress for our feline companions. Any changes in a cat’s regular routine – a calm home now crammed with new scents, sounds and strangers -- can send even the least “fraidy cat” cat scampering for cover.
 
To reduce your furry friend’s stress level (and YOURS), maintain her regular feeding and playing routine with some extra interactive play sessions for good measure. Keep all but the most social cats in a separate room, then ensure that your social “cat-erfly” doesn’t dart out into the night when the door opens and your guests arrive. Should the worst happen and she does disappear, make certain that she has either been micro-chipped or is wearing a collar with up-to-date tags for proper identification and a swift return to your waiting arms.
 
As tantalizing as Thanksgiving food is for people, some can prove painful, even fatal for cats. The most notorious offenders are:

Chocolate: All chocolate, especially semi-sweet, dark and baking chocolate contain the toxic, caffeine-like ingredient theobromine. Candy containing the artificial sweetener xylitol, is also dangerous. If you suspect that your cat has eaten something toxic, promptly call your veterinarian or the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center at (888) 426-4435.

Turkey stuffing: It often contains onions and garlic, raisins and spices – all of them toxic to cats. The sulfoxides and disulfides in onions and garlic destroy the red blood cells and can cause serious blood problems, including anemia. The effects of ingesting raisins and/or spices usually occur within 24 hours and include lack of appetite, lethargy, weakness, abdominal pain, diarrhea, and decreased urination.

Cooked turkey bones and gristle: Turkey bones splinter easily and can get caught in your cat’s throat or esophagus. They can also cause intestinal blockages or perforations leading to infection, while turkey gristle presents a clear and present choking hazard. To safeguard against these painful possibilities, all leftovers should be carefully wrapped and promptly disposed of.

Alcohol: To avoid intoxication and alcohol poisoning, keep all full glasses and half-filled glasses of wine or spirits out of reach of your cat’s curious nose and playful paws.
 
And yet, there’s no harm in providing your kitty with her own Thanksgiving feast, one that includes a few small, boneless pieces of cooked turkey, a taste of mashed potato or even a lick of pumpkin pie.
 
 

by Nomi Berger
 
Millions of cats go missing each year, and statistically, those without microchips have less than a 5% chance of being reunited with their families. Cats with microchips, on the other hand, are more than twenty times as likely to be returned to their owners.
 
Even the most vigilant owners can’t always keep their cats safe. While most indoor cats tend to remain inside, many may escape if someone opens a door at the wrong time or if they push through a loose window screen when something outside catches their eye. Being unfamiliar with their new surroundings, they, quite naturally, get scared and may not know how to find their way home.
 
While cat collars are a visible form of identification, they can either fall off accidentally or be removed intentionally. If your cat wears a collar, ensure they’re a breakaway type that won’t get caught on anything and injure her. But remember: as tags grow old, worn and faded, the information on them may become illegible, thereby rendering them impermanent forms of identification.
 
Microchipping is a simple and safe procedure. A veterinarian injects a microchip -- the size of a grain of rice -- beneath the surface of your cat’s skin between the shoulder blades. Similar to a routine shot, it takes only a few seconds and most cats don’t even feel it. A microchip is permanent and will last the life of your cat. Immediately following the procedure, your cat must be registered with the microchip company (usually for a one-time fee), thus storing her unique, alpha-numeric code in the company’s database.
 
Whenever a lost cat appears at a shelter, humane society or veterinary clinic, she will automatically be scanned for a microchip. If there is one, the screen of the handheld scanner will display that cat’s specific code. A simple call to the recovery database using a toll free 800 number enables the code to be traced back to the cat’s owner. But in order for the system to work efficiently, all owners are cautioned to keep their contact information up-to-date.
 
Since no method of identification is perfect, the best way for owners to protect their cats is to keep current ID tags on them, microchip them, and never allow them to roam free.

by Nomi Berger
 
It’s that time again. For goblins and ghosts, pumpkins and pranks, and things that go bump in the night. But as responsible cat guardians, please ensure that your cherished companions aren’t innocent victims of Halloween’s fun and frolics.
 
Consider the following suggestions to keep your cats safe not sorry.
 
1. Keep candy out of reach of your cats. Chocolate, especially dark or baking chocolate, can prove toxic for them. Candy containing the artificial sweetener, xylitol, can also cause dire problems. If you suspect that your sweeties may have ingested something toxic, please call your veterinarian or the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center at 1-888-426-4435 or the Pet Poison Hotline at 1-800-213-6680 (fees apply in both instances).
 
2. Although pumpkins’ outer shells and decorative corn are considered relatively non-toxic, they can still produce an upset stomach if copiously consumed rather than simply sampled.
 
3. Keep wires and cords from lights and other decorations safely out of reach. If chewed, your cats might be cut or burned or receive a potentially life-threatening electric shock.
 
4. Festive, carved pumpkins with candles inside can be easily knocked over by frisky felines and a fire started. Curious kittens in particular run the risk of being singed or burned by a candle flame. Either keep them unlit, out of reach, or keep an eye on your pets’ wandering whereabouts at all times.
 
5. Don’t dress up your darlings in a costume unless you know that they’re comfortable being decked out -- not stressed out -- by putting on the “glitz”. The safest, albeit less sassy alternative is to opt instead for a Halloween theme bandana draped round their necks.
 
6. Keep all but the most social cats in a separate room when “trick or treating” children come to call. Even then, take care that they don’t daringly dart outside when the door first opens.
 
7. Should your cats “pull a Houdini” and vanish into the night, ensure that they have either been micro-chipped or are wearing a collar and tags for proper identification and a swift return to your anxious arms.
 
With some strategic planning beforehand, you and your precious puss-in-boots can be assured of spending the safest and happiest of Halloweens -- together.

by Nomi Berger
 
If so, you’re definitely not the only one. What is it about bathrooms that our feline friends find so utterly fascinating?
 
Some cats see bathrooms as the purr-fect playrooms – whether their owners are in there or not. From a tub to circle or slide around in to rolls of toilet paper to unravel, from towels and robes to tug at to rugs or bathmats to roll around on – MEOW! Is it any wonder cats can’t get enough of such tempting “play things”?
 
Then there’s the sink. Its rounded sides are ideal for cradling a cat’s body, creating a cozy place for lounging and sleeping.
Its coolness may feel wonderfully refreshing during the warmer months, while her own body heat will warm it during the colder months, making it ever so comfortably toasty.
 
Although it’s common knowledge that most cats dislike being wet, many LOVE being near water – especially fresh, running water. In the bathroom, they can drink fresh water from both the sink and tub faucets, while some cats fancy licking a wet tub and lapping up bathwater.
 
Nothing piques a pussycat’s interest or provokes her ire more than the sight of a closed door – particularly a closed bathroom door with you on the other side of it. If you and your kitty share a special bond, not only does she know all of your habits and daily routines, she’s understandably curious about what you’re doing and wants to spend time with you. She yearns, even demands, to share in whatever activities are going on without her. Simply put, she doesn’t want to miss out on “all the fun.”
 
Notorious for seeking affection on her terms, a kitty who finds you seated on the toilet will take full advantage of your “trapped” paws-ition, knowing she now has your undivided attention. What could be more alluring or inviting than the sight of your warm lap exposed for her – if you allow it -- to settle in and purr up a storm? What better way for her to garner some extra strokes and pets, head and chin scratches from you than by rubbing herself back and forth against your legs? Or … if you’ve just taken a bath or a shower, your kitty may relish her role as devoted “dryer” by lovingly licking your wet skin with her tiny tongue.
 
In short, a bathroom contains all of the subtle scents and smells of you: your cat’s most cherished being. This is where you spend much of your time each day performing so many of life’s little rituals. What you may consider mundane – combing your hair, washing your hands, flossing and brushing your teeth, drinking water, swallowing pills -- may seem nothing short of miraculous to your cat as she watches every move that you make – from her perch on the vanity, the sink or the closed toilet lid.
 
Ironically, then, bathroom time can prove to be extremely valuable and pleasurable bonding time for you both.

by Nomi Berger
 
Feline epiphora, simply put, is an overflow of tears from a cat’s eyes. A symptom rather than a specific disease, it’s associated with a variety of conditions.
 
Normally, a thin film of tears is produced to lubricate your cat’s eyes, leaving the excess fluid to drain into the tear ducts, located in the corner of each eye next to her nose, which, in turn, drain tears into the back of her nose and throat. Usually associated with insufficient drainage of this tear film is a blockage of the tear ducts or poor eyelid function due to some sort of deformity. Conversely, epiphora may result from the excessive production of tears.
 
The most obvious signs of epiphora are dampness or wetness beneath her eyes, reddish-brown staining of the fur beneath her eyes, odor, skin irritation and skin infection. In some instances, you may even see tears rolling down your kitty’s face.
 
A vet visit is the first step in determining if there is an underlying cause for her excess tear production. Some of these causes include abnormal eyelashes (distichia or ectopic cilia), allergies, anatomical abnormalities such as rolled in eyelids (entropion) or rolled out eyelids (ectropion), conjunctivitis (viral or bacterial), corneal ulcers, eye infections, eye injuries and glaucoma.
 
Should these causes be eliminated, it’s essential to determine whether or not there IS proper and adequate tear drainage. Your vet will perform a thorough ocular exam, paying special attention to your cat’s tear ducts and nearby tissues, and checking for any signs of inflammation or other abnormalities. One of the simplest tests involves placing a drop of fluorescein stain in the eye, holding her head slightly downward, and watching for drainage into her nose. If the drainage system is functioning normally, the stain should appear in her nose within minutes. If none is seen, it doesn’t definitively diagnose a blocked tear duct and merits further investigation.
 
Your cat will then be anesthetized and a special instrument inserted into the duct to flush out its contents. In some instances, the duct may not have opened during her development, and if so, it can be surgically opened during this procedure. If chronic infections or allergies have caused the ducts to narrow, flushing may help widen them. If, however, the cause is related to another eye condition, other treatment options may include surgery.
 
If your cat has an eye infection, your vet may prescribe a topical antibiotic such as oxytetracycline, triple antibiotic ointments intended for pets or topical antivirals like idoxuridine. If, however, she has an upper respiratory infection or nasal discharge or can’t tolerate eye drops, your vet may prescribe an oral antibiotic like doxycycline or azithromycin.
 
Unless an underlying cause can be found and treated, most cats with epiphora will experience intermittent episodes all of their lives. If your cat’s facial anatomy (such brachycephalic breeds as Persians and Himalayans) prevents adequate drainage of the tear film, some degree of epiphora will persist regardless, and in most cases, no significant problems may arise, and the tear staining may merely be cosmetic. The most you can do in this case is clean the area under your kitty’s eyes with gentle wipes designed specifically for pets.

by Nomi Berger
 
Is your favorite feline finding it nearly im-paws-ible to jump to and from her most preferred perch? Is she meowing – as in “ouch!” -- after completing a once-easy jump even onto a couch or a chair? Is she suffering from arthritis or other joint problems, recovering from an injury or surgery, including the amputation of a leg? Is she losing her vision? Or is she simply aging? If any of these scenarios sounds achingly familiar, consider providing her with either a set of stairs or a ramp.
 
To conserve space, purchase a set of stairs instead of a ramp. Many are collapsible or easily transportable, allowing you to both move them when necessary and put them away. With a steeper incline, and shorter than a ramp, if your cat can manage them, they may be the most convenient option. Each individual step should be no more than 7 ½” tall and at least 10” deep since cats like having the space to maneuver. Most importantly, the top step should be no less than 7 1/2” shorter than the surface it leads to.
 
Buy a model with safety rails along the side of the stairs to stop your cat if she starts falling off. This is especially important if she’s losing or has already lost much of her sight. One obvious clue  -- since all vision-impaired animals will have long since memorized their surroundings – will be her tendency to bump into furniture more often, particularly if you’ve moved some of that furniture around.
 
While some cats – especially those who have never used stairs before -- are unlikely to use stairs if introduced to them late in life or if they already have trouble walking around, a ramp may prove to be the safest option. It usually helps to get your kitty accustomed to a ramp beforehand, so consider buying one as soon as she displays any mobility issues, such as walking less or displaying changes in her gait. And remember, any ramp you buy should be high enough to be level with its intended surface.
 
Purchase one with a gentler slope for older cats or those who are already severely impaired -- a low slope of 18 degrees is best. For cats whose difficulties are still moderate, a steeper one at 26 degrees may still be suitable. The best ramp is one covered in a non-looping, plush carpet. Not only does it provide traction, preventing your cat from falling off, her nails won’t get caught or stuck in a carpet with loops. One note of caution: buy a ramp for a chair, couch or bed, but NEVER buy a ramp leading UP, UP, UP to bookcases, closet shelves, high perches or windows.
 
Because ramps and steps are unfamiliar to most cats, it’s essential that you introduce yours slowly and patiently to them, preferably in a quiet space free from unwanted distractions. Begin by placing treats on the ramp or bottom step of the stairs to get her started. And although she may not do so immediately, put another treat in the middle of the ramp or stair. Once she’s actually on it, place more treats on top of the ramp or stairs, thereby teaching and encouraging her how to make her way up it. And since practice makes purr-fect, practice, practice, practice while continuing to pave her way to success with treat after treat after treat. Provide her with the gentle guidance and patient support she needs to keep her from rushing or jumping off, slipping or falling off until she’s fully confident, comfortable, and capable of safely ascending and descending the ramp or steps on her own.
 

by Nomi Berger
 
Our feline fur-iends are famous for staring!
 
They are the most curious of observers, whether it’s staring at you, at the wall, outside a window (for up to five hours a day) or seemingly at nothing at all. Have you ever paw-ndered the reasons for these legendary and oh-so-photogenic stares? If so, consider the following:
 
Whatever the breed, cats have huge eyes when compared to the size of the rest of their bodies. They also blink about twice a minute while we, as humans, blink between 15 to 20 times a minute.
 
Compared to humans, cats are nearsighted. The average human visual acuity is 20/20. What does this mean? It means that when our visual acuity is tested, the detail we’re able to see is from 100 to 200 feet away. Feline visual acuity, however, ranges from between 20/100 and 20/200, indicating that cats can only see clearly from 20 feet away. What’s clear to us at a distance of 100 feet, therefore, appears blurry to cats.
 
But whatever they lack in visual acuity, they compensate for -- thanks to other advantages. The more numerous rods in their retinas allow them to see in one-sixth the amount of light that we require. They also have a wider field of vision at 200 degrees whereas our field of vision is 180 degrees. Blessed with the ability to detect the tiniest insect or speck of dust at close range, this, paired with their superior peripheral vision, lets them fixate on things we wouldn’t even notice.
 
Since domesticated cats have adapted to people’s habits and use our “signals” to gather information, they don’t merely notice a person’s gaze they actually follow it. Not to mention staring at YOU!
 
Examples:
 
Affection: If your cat is staring at you through squinted eyes and giving you a slow blink while her body’s relaxed, she’s demonstrating the feline version of love and trust. Commonly referred to as cat “eye kisses,” they’re that much more meaningful when you respond to her “advances” by slow blinking back at her.
 
Hunger: If your cat is hungry, she may stare at you in an effort to get the message across. If it’s either close to mealtime or if she’s actually standing near her food bowl, she’ll make direct eye contact with you – often accented with a “meow” -- until her obvious request for food has been met.
 
Hunting: Given that cats are innately predators, they will focus on their prey by staring at them intently. Have you ever observed your own kitty staring at a bird outside the window and seeing her flinch with every movement the bird makes? This means she’s hyper-focused on staring that bird down.
 
Other cats: If yours is a multi-cat household, you’ve no doubt observed them staring at each other, i.e. staring each other down. Because all cats are territorial, this behavior can be one of dominance, aggression over beds or access to litter boxes or something far more pleasant such as initiating playing and wrestling.

by Nomi Berger
 
As creatures of habit who crave their creature comforts, cats don’t always make the best road trip companions. But by mapping out kitty’s trip together with your own, you can curtail her bad “backseat driver” behavior, and turn a potentially negative experience into a purr-fectly paws-itive one.
 
Consider the following suggestions to smooth the way for everyone – human and feline:
 
Remain calm. Because cats sense our stress, don’t raise your voice or display any overt signs of your own pre-trip tension.
 
Should your trip be longer than a day, make reservations ahead of time solely at pet-friendly motels or hotels.
 
Carry your most up-to-date vet paperwork, showing, at the very least, that your cat is current on her rabies shots.
 
Never medicate an overly anxious cat without first consulting your vet. Many OTC calming agents are dangerous for cats, and if you do use a medication prescribed by your vet, always try it out at home first to test for any reactions and/or side effects.
 
If your cat tends to get car sick, avoid feeding her between two and three hours prior to your departure.
 
Train your cat to wear a harness so that she can remain safely harnessed inside the car. Her harness should bear a name tag with all pertinent ID (microchipping is, of course, the best ID), and a leash should be clipped to it whenever you remove kitty from her carrier or from the car itself.
 
Have your cat travel comfortably by keeping her in a large carrier or dog crate, allowing her room enough to stretch and move around during the drive. Set the crate or carrier in a well-ventilated part of the car, out of excessive drafts and away from direct sunlight.
 
Drape a sheet over the crate or carrier, leaving one side open, to help her feel more snug, safe and secure.
 
Place a familiar blanket, several cushions, or a worn T-shirt with your scent on it inside the crate or carrier. Rotate various cat toys along the way (this works particularly well with a young kitten) to keep her stimulated and occupied.
 
Line the bottom with pee pads as a precaution and put a small, disposable litter pan (aluminum baking pans work well) inside the carrier or crate, and ensure you have a generous supply of both to last the entire trip. Stock up on sanitized wipes and strong plastic bags to handle any and all “litter box” accidents.
 
If your cat has an appetite, feed her the same food that she eats at home and keep her water bowl only partly filled to avoid spilling.
 
Never let your cat out of the car at “rest stops” unless she’s well trained to walk on a harness and leash. And above all, never leave kitty unattended -- on either hot or cold days.
 
As they say, forewarned is forearmed. Hopefully then, armed with these few tips, you and your cat can share a road trip to remember – fondly.

 by Nomi Berger
 
Picture yourself on a sweltering summer day wearing a long fur coat. Are you hot yet? Itchy? Thirsty? Desperately searching for shade?
 
Now picture your cats on that same summer day. And you’ll have some idea of how THEY feel.
 
Keeping cats cool and comfortable is essential to keeping them safe INside. Protecting them from the hot sun, hot air and hot ground is essential to keeping them safe OUTside. All it requires is common sense and some advance planning.
 
If you have air conditioning, cool down your place as much as possible before you leave for work/play/the day. Draw blinds/curtains and leave the air conditioning on low.
 
If you don’t have air conditioning, place fans in the windows and run them on “exhaust” to circulate the air without sucking in the hot air outside. Keep blinds/curtains drawn.
 
Freeze a bottle of water and place it IN your cat’s bed or place a package of frozen peas UNDER the covering of the bed.
 
Feeling extravagant? Purchase a cat bed that stays cool through low voltage electricity.
 
Store small plastic containers of water in the freezer overnight. Place the now-iced containers around your cat’s other favorite cuddling/napping spot(s).
 
Keep your cat’s food and water bowls out of any direct sunlight, and fill the water bowl with ice cubes to help it remain chilled for hours.
 
Keep activity to a minimum and discourage your cat from playing.
 
For those with a screened-in patio that their cat enjoys, put up shades on the sides that face the sun, set out several bowls of iced water and check on them throughout the day.
 
If gone for the day, consider keeping your cat in the bathroom to lie on the tiled floor or counter top or to curl up in the bathtub or sink.
 
If going on a road trip in a car without air conditioning, place a wet towel over your cat’s carrier or attach a small battery-operated fan to the outside of the carrier.
 
Fill the food and water cups inside the carrier with crushed ice for extra cooling, and use a spray bottle of cold water to occasionally wet your cat’s coat.
 
If traveling in a car WITH air conditioning, keep it on and ensure that the airflow reaches your cat’s carrier.
 
Never leave your cat tethered outside in the shade. As the day progresses and the light shifts, your cat will be directly exposed to the sun’s harmful rays and heat.
 
Never shave your cat’s fur as it offers SOME protection against sunburn. Pale and light-skinned cats MUST stay out of the sun because their ears and the tips of their noses are prone to skin cancer.
 
Never leave your cat in a parked car (even with the windows cracked) for even a few minutes. (Leaving the A/C on with the motor running is an environmental no-no). The inside of a car heats up quickly, making it much hotter than the air outside and can lead swiftly to heat stroke.
 
The symptoms of heat stroke include rapid panting, difficulty breathing, increased heart rate, erratic/wobbly walking, and redder than normal gums.
 
Should you observe any of these symptoms, wrap your cat in a cool, wet towel, and get to your veterinarian or to an animal hospital immediately.
 
Being a responsible cat guardian means being an informed cat guardian.
 
The list of safety rules may seem long, but the hot days of summer are even longer.