by Nomi Berger
 
The verb may be new to the vernacular, but it’s far from a novel concept in “certain circles.”
 
That verb is catification. The creation of a feline-friendly environment catering to a cat's natural instincts to climb and perch, rest and play. A “cats only” club whose members own their own space.
 
Curious about catifying? Then, consider these suggestions.
 
Since felines are famous for being “busy bodies”, keep them happily busy by giving them a clear view of the world outside their favorite window. Create a lookout point for them using a window seat or perch, a strategically situated shelf or bookcase. One note of caution: the sight of outdoor cats – whether neighborly or feral – may unsettle some indoor cats. Should yours be one of them, find a different window or an equally acceptable alternative.
 
Expand their world vertically and horizontally by erecting multi-perched and multi-leveled cat trees or by installing specially designed cat shelves, which, when connected, will form a veritable “cat highway.” This allows cats in a multi-cat household to get along more amicably since they can a) claim their own special spots without having to “time share” and b) peer down from on high at the world below. This also encourages them to be more active and to exercise (both sorely lacking in too many indoor cats) by giving them something to aim for and somewhere to jump to.
 
Rather than concealing scratching posts for esthetic reasons, place them precisely where your finicky feline prefers them. They may be eyesores to you, but they’re godsends for your fabrics and furniture, doorknobs, drawer handles and drapery pulls. Ensure that the scratching posts are extremely sturdy and provide horizontal, vertical, and inclined positions. Two additional benefits to scratching on these posts: cats stretch their back muscles and remove the outer sheaths of their nails.
 
Some cat behaviorists suggest the “plus one” rule, i.e., when determining how many litter boxes you need, count the number of cats you have and add one. One cat equals two boxes, and so on, each located in places of significance to THEM not YOU. And that usually means as close as paws-ible to you and YOUR favorite places, from couches and chairs, to coffee table and closets. Rather than engage in a cat fight, compromise by placing one litter box in your bathroom and the other near your cat’s favorite window or door.
 
As supreme self-groomers, all fastidious felines will, not unreasonably, turn up their noses at “kitty bathrooms” that aren’t equally as fastidious. To keep them from turning your carpets or floors into their pottying places of choice, use only those litter boxes specifically designed to fight odors. Ones that optimize natural air circulation, allowing wet litter to properly dry and discouraging the growth of the bacteria and fungus that fill the air – and your cat’s nostrils – with their noxious fumes. The bonus for you? You won’t have to change your cat’s litter as often!
 
Eliminate the stress on your cat’s whiskers caused by their brushing up against or being confined by the high sides of most food and water dishes. Because a cat’s whiskers are long, fine and delicate, they are also extremely sensitive. Wide, low-sided dishes will allow your cat to lap and lick, feed and feast whiskers-and-pain-free.
 
Paws crossed that these simple solutions help to create the most catified, satisfied felines ever.

by Nomi Berger

 
What would summertime be without Fourth of July celebrations and family reunions, backyard BBQs and porch, patio and pool parties? Whether held outdoors or indoors, whether with fireworks or fanciful decorations, feline guardians must NEVER let down THEIR guard.
 
When planning a celebratory event for people, plan it with the safety of your pet in mind by following these simple, common sense suggestions:
 
1. Warn your guests to keep all alcoholic beverage holders (from glass and plastic to paper and styrofoam) out of reach of your cat. Alcohol can be very poisonous to pets, causing them to become weak or ill, fall into a coma due to respiratory failure, and possibly die.
 
The same applies to all non-alcoholic beverages (including soda, tea and coffee) because the caffeine they contain can cause rapid heartbeats, extreme agitation and muscle tremors in your cat.
 
And if a BBQ is on the menu, keep your curious cat away both from the heat and the sizzling, scintillating smells emanating from the barbecue grill.
 
While most cats won’t voluntarily jump into water, they can easily and accidentally fall into a swimming pool when either chased (by a dog) or distracted (by the hubbub). Naturally good swimmers, they can’t, however, climb OUT again without a ramp or a person’s prompt, helping hand.
 
2. Should your party include pretty and perky party favors (such as firecrackers, miniature flags and sparklers, glow sticks, paper hats and poppers, balloons, streamers and confetti), keep them out of reach of playful paws and retrieve any fallen favors from the ground or floor as soon as you see them.
 
If swallowed, these same party favors can swiftly turn pernicious, potentially causing an obstructed digestive track, severe vomiting, dehydration, and possible surgery.
 
Because many cats have extremely sensitive ears, the sudden, startling sounds made by poppers and horns, firecrackers and noisemakers can be both frightening and unnerving. For this reason, it’s wise to keep all fearful felines far from this form of fun and frolics.
 
3. Remind your guests that all table and plate scraps are off limits to your cat’s inquisitive nose and inquiring mouth. Parties abound with unsafe temptations, including salted chips, nuts and chocolate, fat drippings, highly seasoned meats and dips that contain avocado, onion and garlic.
 
While some of these sweets and savories may merely cause mild stomach upsets, some can be highly toxic.

4. To be safe instead of sorry, provide for your cat’s comfort beforehand by providing her with the protection and privacy of her own purr-sonal chill space. A quiet bedroom, far from the partying crowd or the explosion of fireworks, is ideal.
 
Supply your cat with “all the comforts of home” – including her cat bed, a scratching post or pad, and her favorite toys. Set down a bowl of cold, fresh water and spread assorted treats around. For additional calming, leave the TV on low or play some classical music to blunt the effects of the noise outside.
 
Place a note on the door warning your guests to please NOT enter the room or let your cat out.
 
Play peek-a-boo once in a while, or stay for a pet, a cuddle or a game to reassure yourself that your cat is content, and to remind her that you’re always close by.

by Nomi Berger
 
Pica (from the Latin term “magpie”) is the term for a feline’s affinity for eating anything that isn’t FOOD. And although it appears most frequently in young cats, it can affect older cats as well.
 
Many cats may “nurse” on fuzzy items like wool, fleece and stuffed animals due to being weaned from their mothers too early, while others may “nurse” on their owners’ arms, earlobes or hair instead. But when SUCKING progresses to EATING such items as shoelaces, string, paper, plastic (from grocery bags to shower curtains), elastic bands and electrical cords, then there’s a pussycat problem. And its name is pica.
 
The ingestion of inedible and indigestible items is indeed cause for concern. Why? Because indigestible items can cause intestinal blockages that can be both extremely costly and potentially deadly.
 
According to feline specialists, the suspected physical causes of pica include:
 
Dietary deficiencies: When suffering from anemia, some cats may eat their kitty litter. And while eating SOME grass is normal for cats, eating large quantities of grass or the leaves of houseplants may indicate that something is missing from their diet. (This habit is also dangerous because many houseplants are either poisonous to cats or can cause them severe gastrointestinal upset).
 
Medical problems: Often associated with FeLV (feline leukemia) and FIV (feline immunodeficiency virus), pica may also be triggered by such conditions as diabetes or brain tumors.
 
Genetic predisposition: Wool “sucking”, sometimes a precursor to pica, is seen more often in Siamese, Burmese and other “Oriental” cats.
 
“Compulsive pica”, on the other hand, results from boredom due to a lack of physical and mental stimulation or is used by some cats as an attention-seeking mechanism.
 
To learn whether YOUR cat is suffering from a medical or mood disorder, begin by visiting your vet. If the source is NOT medical, animal behaviorists suggest the following:
 
Remove, hide or store the items your cat loves to eat and keep all play areas free of tempting and chewable “clutter.” Consider it a form of constructive housecleaning.
 
Apply a pungent, non-toxic substance such as Bandguard or Bitter Apple to electrical and power cords to turn them from appealing to UNappealing.
 
Divert your cat’s need to chew on and swallow dangerous objects by providing safer, more appropriate alternatives such as cat toys with inside pockets to hide tasty, edible treats.
 
Discard all toxic houseplants (refer to the ASPCA web site) or place a few small pots of grass or catnip on a ledge or other low surfaces for plant-eating cats to nibble on, while carefully monitoring their intake.
 
Create a consistent routine of active playtime with your cat to remove boredom or loneliness from the equation. Not only is playing together (from using cat wands and feather toys to interactive games and simple tricks) an essential bonding time for you both, but it also keeps your cat mentally stimulated and physically satisfied.
 
Consider training your cat to wear a harness, then go on walks together.
 
If possible, build a “catio”, a safe outdoor enclosure where your cat can prowl, sit or curl up in a cat bed while keeping an inquisitive eye on the activities of the world outside.
 
But if, despite these efforts, your cat continues to eat inedible and indigestible items, seek out the advice of a certified applied animal behaviorist (CAAB).

by Nomi Berger
 
Picture yourself on a sweltering summer day wearing a long fur coat. Are you hot yet? Itchy? Thirsty? Desperately searching for shade?
 
Now picture your cats on that same summer day. And you’ll have some idea of how THEY feel.
 
Keeping cats cool and comfortable is essential to keeping them safe INside. Protecting them from the hot sun, hot air and hot ground is essential to keeping them safe OUTside. All it requires is common sense and some advance planning.
 
If you have air conditioning, cool down your place as much as possible before you leave for work/play/the day. Draw blinds/curtains and leave the air conditioning on low.
 
If you don’t have air conditioning, place fans in the windows and run them on “exhaust” to circulate the air without sucking in the hot air outside. Keep blinds/curtains drawn.
 
Freeze a bottle of water and place it IN your cat’s bed or place a package of frozen peas UNDER the covering of the bed.
 
Feeling extravagant? Purchase a cat bed that stays cool through low voltage electricity.
 
Store small plastic containers of water in the freezer overnight. Place the now-iced containers around your cat’s other favorite cuddling/napping spot(s).
 
Keep your cat’s food and water bowls out of any direct sunlight, and fill the water bowl with ice cubes to help it remain chilled for hours.
 
Keep activity to a minimum and discourage your cat from playing.
 
For those with a screened-in patio that their cat enjoys, put up shades on the sides that face the sun, set out several bowls of iced water and check on them throughout the day.
 
If gone for the day, consider keeping your cat in the bathroom to lie on the tiled floor or counter top or to curl up in the bathtub or sink.
 
If going on a road trip in a car without air conditioning, place a wet towel over your cat’s carrier or attach a small battery-operated fan to the outside of the carrier.
 
Fill the food and water cups inside the carrier with crushed ice for extra cooling, and use a spray bottle of cold water to occasionally wet your cat’s coat.
 
If traveling in a car WITH air conditioning, keep it on and ensure that the airflow reaches your cat’s carrier.
 
Never leave your cat tethered outside in the shade. As the day progresses and the light shifts, your cat will be directly exposed to the sun’s harmful rays and heat.
 
Never shave your cat’s fur as it offers SOME protection against sunburn. Pale and light-skinned cats MUST stay out of the sun because their ears and the tips of their noses are prone to skin cancer.
 
Never leave your cat in a parked car (even with the windows cracked) for even a few minutes. (Leaving the A/C on with the motor running is an environmental no-no). The inside of a car heats up quickly, making it much hotter than the air outside and can lead swiftly to heat stroke.
 
The symptoms of heat stroke include rapid panting, difficulty breathing, increased heart rate, erratic/wobbly walking, and redder than normal gums.
 
Should you observe any of these symptoms, wrap your cat in a cool, wet towel, and get to your veterinarian or to an animal hospital immediately.
 
Being a responsible cat guardian means being an informed cat guardian.
 
The list of safety rules may seem long, but the hot days of summer are even longer.