by Nomi Berger
 
If eyes are the windows to a person’s soul, a cat’s eyes should be the mirrors of their health, hopefully reflecting only GOOD health back at you.
 
As a conscientious cat guardian, you should perform your own optical check regularly by sitting with your cat in a well-lit room and quite literally looking her “in the eye.” Both eyes should be clear and bright, the area around the eyeballs white, and the pupils of equal size.
 
If all is well, proceed to gently roll down your cat’s eyelid, one at a time, with your thumb and examine the lining of the lid. It should be pink, not red or white. Any crusting you may find should be promptly wiped away with a damp cotton ball. Always wipe AWAY from the corner of the eye, and use a fresh cotton ball for each eye. Snip away any long hairs that may either be poking your cat’s eye or blocking her vision.
 
Often your cat’s own body language will alert you to a possible problem. If your cat is constantly squinting or pawing at her eye area, inspect both eyes carefully. With or without your cat’s signals, however, to determine if something is wrong with one or both of her eyes, look for the following:
Discharge
Watering
Red or white eyelid lining
Tear-stained fur
Closed eye
Cloudiness or change in eye color
Visible third eyelid
Should any of these symptoms be present, contact your vet immediately.
 
Some of the most common eye-related disorders in cats are:
Conjunctivitis: when one or both of your cat’s eyes is red and swollen, possibly with a discharge.
Third eyelid protrusion: when the third eyelid is visible or crosses your cat’s eye, indicating she may have a wound or may be suffering from diarrhea, worms or a virus.
Keratitis: when the cornea becomes inflamed, giving the eye a cloudy and watery look.
Cataracts: when the eye itself is opaque, a condition often seen in elderly and diabetic cats.
Glaucoma: when the cornea becomes cloudy and the eye enlarges due to increased pressure inside the eyeball.
Bulging eye: when there’s been an accident or trauma to the eye, or an eye tumor.
Retinal disease: when light-sensitive cells at the back of the eye degenerate causing partial or total loss of vision.
Watery eyes: when blocked tear ducts or an overproduction of tears stain the fur around your cat’s eyes.
 
While many of these disorders can be treated at home using vet-prescribed eye drops or
 
ointments, others will require further investigation beginning with a cat ophthalmologist.
 
To forestall or prevent some of these conditions, ensure that your cat receives all of her vaccinations and is thoroughly examined annually by your vet. Certain eye conditions, when left untreated, can lead to impaired sight, even blindness.
 
 
 
 

by Nomi Berger
 
While your cat’s sensitive ears may discern the distinctive sound of a can of food being opened in the kitchen, a human’s helping hand can ensure those ears remain clear and clean by checking them weekly.
 
Begin with the outer ear. A healthy earflap (pinna) has a fine layer of hair on its outer surface with no visible bald spots, while its inner surface is clean and light pink. Should you notice any discharge, redness or swelling, have your cat’s ears examined by your vet.
 
To check the inner ear, fold it back gently and look down (a tiny penlight makes this easier) into the canal. A healthy inner ear is pale pink, is free of debris and odor, with minimal to no earwax. Should either or both of your cat’s ears be caked with wax (especially dark brown wax) or emit a foul odor, have them examined by your vet.
 
Otherwise, for maintenance, place a small amount of liquid ear cleaner (ask your vet to recommend one) onto a clean cotton ball or a piece of gauze. Fold your cat’s ear back gently and wipe away any debris or earwax from the underside of the ear. LIFT away the dirt and wax rather than rubbing it into the ear. And do NOT attempt to clean the ear canal. Probing the inside of your cat’s ear can cause injury or infection.
 
Monitor your cat for any of the following signs that may prompt an immediate visit to your vet:
Persistent scratching and pawing of the ear area
Sensitivity to touch
Head tilting or shaking
Loss of balance and disorientation
Hearing loss
Bleeding
 
There are also several ear disorders that can cause your cat harm and you alarm. Among them:
Ear mites, which are common parasites, and are highly contagious among pets. Telltale signs include excessive scratching of the ears and debris that resembles coffee grounds.

Ear blisters (hematomas), a collection of blood and serum between the cartilage and skin of your cat’s outer ear, often caused by infection, ear mites, fleas or trapped debris, that results in continuous ear scratching or excessive head shaking.
Ear infections, usually caused by bacteria, yeast or foreign debris caught in your cat’s ear canal. See your vet promptly because ear infections are not only extremely uncomfortable, but they may also be indicators of allergies, hormonal abnormalities or hereditary diseases.
 
Should your vet recommend ear drops or ointment for your cat, get advice on how to properly administer them or follow the general guidelines below:
 
Read the label instructions carefully to be assured of the correct dosage. If there’s debris or excessive wax in your cat’s outer ear or visible ear canal, gently wipe the external ear with a cotton ball or gauze moistened with your liquid ear cleaner. Gently pull back the earflap and squeeze out the correct amount of solution or ointment into the outermost ear canal, then lightly massage the base of your cat’s ear to help work the medication deeper into the canal. Make certain to complete the entire course of treatment, thereby ensuring that the issue has been resolved.

by Nomi Berger
 
Although cats are famously fastidious self-groomers, committed cat guardians should work hand in paw with their precious pets to improve on Mother Nature’s instinctual behavior.
 
Grooming, which includes brushing, bathing and nail clipping, on a regular basis not only improves the health of your cat’s skin and coat, but it also allows you to keep a watchful eye on her overall health. And because grooming sessions should be mutually enjoyable experiences, schedule them when your pet is most relaxed, usually after exercising or eating.
 
To accustom your cat to being handled, slowly, gently and patiently stroke every part of her body -- ears and tail, belly and back -- but especially her feet. Keep your initial sessions brief (from five to ten minutes), gradually lengthening them as she grows more comfortable with the routine.
 
Brushing
 
Regular use of a brush or comb helps keep your cat’s fur in good condition by removing dirt, spreading natural oils throughout her coat, preventing tangles, and keeping her skin clean and irritant-free.
 
Cats with short hair require only weekly brushing, while those with long hair should be brushed daily. Begin by combing your cat’s chest, belly and legs, taking care to be especially gentle near her chest and belly. Then brush her fur in an upward motion with a bristle or rubber brush. To properly brush her tail, make a part down the middle and brush the fur out on either side.
 
Bathing
 
If your cat’s coat becomes greasy and oily or if she’s gotten into something sticky or stinky, a bath is a must. And since cats aren’t overly fond of water, to put it mildly, extra patience and an extra pair of hands may be musts as well.
 
Begin with a vigorous brushing to remove all dead hair, mats and tangles from your cat’s coat. Then, after placing a rubber bath mat in your sink or tub, fill it with three to four inches of lukewarm water and gently lower your cat into the water. If you have a spray hose, wet her body thoroughly, taking care not to spray her ears, eyes or nose. If you don’t have a spray hose, use a large plastic pitcher instead. Gently massage in a cat-specific shampoo, working from head to tail, rinse her thoroughly while again avoiding her ears, eyes and nose, and dry her with a large towel.
 
Nail Clipping
 
To accustom your cat to what may be an unpleasant sensation, pamper her first with the pleasures of a daily foot massage. Rub your hand up and down her leg, one leg at a time, and then gently press each individual toe. Be certain to reward her with tender praise and tasty treats as you do this. While each cat is different, hopefully, within a week or two, yours will accept nail clipping as part of her own, well earned beauty regime.  
 
Start by applying gentle pressure to the top of her foot and the cushioned pad underneath, which will cause her to instinctively extend her claws. Use sharp, high-quality cat nail scissors to cut off the white tip of each nail before the point where it begins to curl. Take care to avoid the quick (a vein that runs into the nail), visible as a pink area through the translucent nail. Should you accidentally cut into the quick, apply some styptic powder to the area to stop the bleeding.
 
And your reward for all of this loving attention? A purr-fectly polished puss, dressed to the nines, and looking like the “cat’s meow.”

by Nomi Berger
 
Clumping or non-clumping: that is the question.
 
Although it’s a question usually answered by your own cat, consider the advantages and disadvantages of both.
 
Clumping cat litter is designed to allow urine and feces to be easily removed without having to empty the entire litter box. While most brands of this litter contain bentonite, an absorbent, aluminum phyllosilicate clay, there are those with all natural fibers that also help litter form clumps.
 
Simply scoop the soiled litter out of the box, leaving the clean litter behind, while the box itself stays cleaner longer. As the level of litter drops, replenish it with fresh litter.
 
Although clumping cat litter reduces the frequency of emptying and cleaning your cat’s box, it still needs to be emptied completely, cleaned thoroughly, and refilled with fresh litter at least once a month. If, however, your cat produces a particularly high volume of urine, this procedure must be done more often.
 
Non-clumping cat litter was the first commercially available litter. It removes odors associated with cat urine because it absorbs relatively large volumes of that urine. While there are unscented brands available, other brands contain additives like charcoal or baking soda which are meant to help control unpleasant odors.
 
But as the litter becomes saturated, urine may pool at the bottom of the box, making it difficult to remove the litter without emptying the entire box. Many cat owners discover that they need to replace all of the litter and clean the box thoroughly at least once a week.
 
Although non-clumping litter is usually made of clay, there are alternatives available. Many are plant-based, composed of such ingredients as pine, corn, wheat, beet pulp, and wood. Some owners prefer non-clumping litter because it’s often less expensive than clumping litter, while others use it because their cats prefer it.
 
As to which type of litter is best? The cat camps themselves are divided. Whereas some cats prefer clumping litter because it’s easier to push aside, others prefer the non-clumping clay. Selecting the litter that your own cat prefers reduces the risk of litter box avoidance issues and inappropriate elimination.
 
Question answered.