by Nomi Berger
 
Uveitis is an inflammation of the uvea of a cat’s eye that includes the iris, the ciliary body and the choroid. What, purr-cisely, are the uvea’s three vital components?
 
The iris is the colored portion of the eye directly surrounding the pupil. It controls the size of the pupil, which, in turn, determines how much light reaches the retina (the lining of the eye that “translates” and sends these signals to the brain).
 
The ciliary body is the middle layer of the eye that connects the iris and the choroid. Its muscles help the eye focus by changing the size of the pupil and the shape of the lens. The ciliary body produces fluid known as aqueous humor, which provides both oxygen and nutrients to the lens and cornea (the clear, outermost cover of the eye).
 
The choroid is the vascular layer, i.e. full of vessels, of the eye that contains melanin cells (a natural skin pigment). These cells absorb light, limit reflection and safeguard the blood vessels from receiving too much light. They also supply the outer retina with both oxygen and blood.
 
Like many other conditions negatively impacting kitties, uveitis may go unnoticed by their owners because cats excel at masking their illnesses and may simply hide more when they’re not feeling “up to scratch,” are frightened or are truly hurting. And since uveitis is both painful and can, potentially, cause blindness, your own cat’s sudden disappearance from view should serve as a warning that something’s amiss.
 
Examine your cat closely, looking for the following signs, either in one eye or both. The most obvious sign is “red eye.” She may also squint, seem sensitive to light and have a watery eye. The color of her iris may be altered or cloudy. The size of her pupil may be affected along with her vision although you may find this more difficult to detect. If glaucoma (a buildup of pressure inside the eye that damages the optic nerve) is also present, her eye may be enlarged or appear to bulge.
 
There are two general categories of feline uveitis: ocular (having to do with the eye) and systemic. Ocular uveitis includes tears on the surface of the eye or within the cornea, known as corneal ulcers, trauma to the eye, cataracts (a clouding of the eye lens) and tumors. Systemic uveitis can be either non-infectious or infectious. Non-infectious causes range from high blood pressure to eating fatty foods. Infectious causes are more extensive and include feline infectious peritonitis (a virus known as FIP), feline immunodeficiency (a virus known as FIV), blastomycosis (fungal), candidiasis (fungal), coccidioidomycosis (fungal), cryptococcosis (fungal), histoplasmosis (fungal), cuterebra larval migration (parasitic), and toxoplasmosis (parasitic).
 
Should you notice any changes in your cat’s eye(s), bring her to the vet immediately. Your vet will ask if she’s experienced any other physical symptoms, such as decreased appetite, vomiting, diarrhea and/or weight loss, and ask, as well, about your home environment and her exposure to any other animals.
 
Along with a thorough physical examination, your vet will perform an ophthalmic exam and likely recommend specific tests to evaluate the cornea’s surface for any abrasions and to measure her eye pressure and tear production. Basic blood work may also be needed as well as tests to rule out such infections as feline leukemia (FeLV), FIV and toxoplasmosis.
 
Treatment of uveitis includes therapy targeted at the specific cause or causes, if they’re identified, and generalized therapy. For incurable infectious such as FIV, treatment is aimed at reducing your cat’s symptoms and supporting her through any flare-ups she might have. Your vet may prescribe topical NSAIDS and systemic medications like Atropine Prednisolone acetate to alleviate her pain and decrease the inflammation in her eye. Where tumors are involved, surgery is often the only option.
 
As with all eye conditions, follow-up visits with your vet are essential to gauge the effectiveness of your cat’s treatment and to monitor the progres of her healing. It’s also vital that you monitor her at home to ensure her symptoms don’t return since uveitis can result in blindness or the loss of the affected eye if her treatment isn’t working.

by Nomi Berger
 
Feline infectious peritonitis (FIP) is caused by a coronavirus unique to cats and isn’t contagious to people, dogs or other animals. Spread, in most instances, through contact with feces, this virus typically lives inside a cat’s intestinal tract.
 
The majority of cats are exposed early in their lives to the organism causing FIP -- sometimes from their mothers – and while almost all of them carry the organism, it’s believed less than 5% actually go on to develop FIP. Most cats who develop FIP are between three months and two years of age, although cats of any age can develop it. Not only does the disease require a specific interaction between a cat’s immune system and a mutated form of the organism, but it’s also, sadly, the main reason there’s no reliable diagnostic test for the disease. In fact, FIP is one of the least understood of all cat diseases.
 
Typically diagnosed through a process of elimination, cats suffering from FIP may present with a variety of symptoms from several other conditions such as abdominal tumors, toxoplasmosis or an infection with mycobacterium. To complicate matters further, a cat’s symptoms will also depend on which organ or organs are affected, since FIP can negatively impact the liver, kidneys and pancreas, not to mention other organ systems, ranging from the eyes to the abdomen to the central nervous system.
 
Most infected cats begin exhibiting signs of the illness by eating poorly, running a fever and/or behaving lethargically. There are two forms of FIP: Wet (or effusive): this causes bloating and swelling in the abdomen (ascites) and may also affect the heart and lungs. Cats with this form of the disease may pant and seem sleepy and droopy. Dry (or non-effusive): this usually affects the eyes (many cats will go blind) and causes such neurological symptoms as problems with balance and seizures. Cats with no immune response develop wet FIP, those with a partial immune response develop dry FIP, and some actually show symptoms of both forms of the disease.
 
Respiratory transmission, while possible, is less common. But because the traditional route of infection is contact with infected feces from litter boxes, cats living in a multi-cat household and who may share litter boxes are the ones most at risk. And yet, developing the disease requires a specific interaction between the virus and their immune systems. It’s not uncommon, then, to see one cat die of FIP and the others remain healthy.
 
Although vets can easily diagnose “wet” FIP by drawing a sample of fluid from the affected cat’s abdomen for analysis, other cats may require additional testing to rule out other possible diseases, leaving FIP as the likeliest culprit. And because FIP is almost always fatal and has no specific cure, vets can, at this point, only offer them supportive care. Anti-inflammatory drugs such as corticosteroids (e.g., prednisolone) along with specific drugs that suppress the immune system (e.g., cyclophosphamide) may both extend their lives and improve their quality of life.
 
Several experimental drugs, currently being investigated for use in the battle against FIP and not yet approved by the FDA, include one known as GS441524 or simply GS441. Expensive, stressful for owners and cats, and not always successful, it requires stringent monitoring and dosing for a period of 84 days, and is available in both injectable and pill form. (The costs and dosages vary depending on the weight of the infected cat). The goal is for the cat to remain symptom-free upon completing the treatment for an observation period of another 84 days.
 
While a vaccine for feline coronavirus exists, it has its limitations. First, it’s only approved for kittens older than 16 weeks of age. And second, vaccinating cats in multi-cat households may be ineffectual since feline coronavirus is so common that most of them will be infected by the time they’re old enough to receive it. For these reasons, the American Association of Feline Practitioners does NOT recommend routine usage of the FIP vaccine.

by Nomi Berger
 
Frustrated by your favorite feline peeing outside the litter box? Wondering how to prevent it?
 
Because most cats urinate inappropriately for one of two reasons, medical or behavioral, the first step is a visit to your vet. The vet will perform a thorough physical examination of your cat and collect a urine sample to either rule in or rule out the following medical conditions:
 
Bladder stones: These stones can not only irritate the bladder but block it, and if your vet suspects they’re the cause, x-rays are essential in determining their size and number. While smaller stones may dissolve on a special diet, larger ones may need to be removed surgically. 
 
Idiopathic cystitis: Cystits is an inflammation of the bladder, idiopathic means the cause is unknown, and cats with this condition often have blood in their urine. A urine sample is of utmost importance since the blood is often only detectable microscopically. If your vet finds blood in your cat’s urine with no sign of crystals, stones or bacteria, the likely diagnosis is idiopathic cystitis, and it’s usually treated through dietary changes and environmental enrichment, with pain and anti-anxiety medications often prescribed as well.
 
Metabolic disease: Among the metabolic diseases that may increase your cat’s urination are chronic kidney disease, liver disease, diabetes, and thyroid problems. If your cat has been drinking water more and/or you’ve been cleaning her litter box more often, mention this to your vet who may then run some blood work to see if one of the aforementioned issues is the culprit.
 
Urinary tract infections: An inflammatory response in the urinary tract caused by bacteria, UTI’s are treated with antibiotics. Once the antibiotics are finished, vets usually recommend follow-up testing to make certain the infection is gone. When one or more urinary issues are chronic, however, this is referred to as feline lower urinary tract disease or FLUTD. If your cat is diagnosed with FLUTD, your vet may recommend a special urinary diet and/or supplements to support the health of her urinary tract.
 
Urinary problems often lead to urinary obstructions, especially in male cats. If yours is “posturing” to urinate and little or no urine is being eliminated, he may have a blockage or partial obstruction. Because either condition can swiftly become life threatening, bring him to your vet immediately.
 
If, on the other hand, there are no medical reasons for your cat’s inappropriate urination, the cause is, most likely, behavioral. The usual suspects: a dirty or uncomfortable litter box, the location of the litter box or unappealing litter; stress due to the presence of another animal or a new person in your household, and the lingering scent of their own urine long after that soiled area has been cleaned up.
 
Consider, then, these solutions:
- Ensure your cat’s litter box is both comfortable and clean – the larger the better, and if possible, leave it uncovered.
- Place the litter box in a quiet yet accessible area of your home – far from where your cat eats and drinks – and preferably out of sight.
- If yours is a multi-story house, place a litter box on each floor.
- Use a shallow box or place a ramp at the entrance of the litter box to make it easier for older cats to access.
- Use an unscented, scoopable litter that most cats seem to prefer.
- Many vets recommend having two boxes in a single-cat household. Why? Because some cats feel best using one for urine and the other for stool.
- Thoroughly clean any areas where your cat has urinated with an enzymatic cleaner to eliminate all traces of the odor and, hopefully, discourage her from continuing to pee there.
- Last, but certainly not least, make your cat’s environment an enriched and happy one. Add both vertical and horizontal stimulants – from cat trees and wall ledges of varying heights to cat tunnels and puzzle games. Provide her with numerous toys to keep her constructively occupied and set aside some time each day to play, play, play with her.
 
If, however, these environmental changes prove ineffective, your vet may prescribe a medication to reduce her anxiety and stress.

by Nomi Berger
 
Does the sound of hissing and the sight of swatting occur all too frequently in YOUR home? If so, you’re not alone. More multi-cat households than you can shake a paw at experience this phenomenon as well. The term for such unwelcome behavior is resource guarding, and, not surprisingly, much of it is grounded in kitty cat insecurity.
 
Cats who once spent an extended period of time either on the streets or in shelters before being rescued -- particularly those deprived of food in the past -- are most likely to resource guard in their adoptive homes. Why? Because, in spite of all of the food available to them, they still perceive that there’s little or none.
 
Sometimes a resident cat will resource guard when a new cat enters her established household. Or vice-versa. A new cat may exhibit the same tendency if she’s either been abandoned or deprived of adequate food and water in the past. Others may resource guard when they feel stressed by such changes in their homes as new people entering the picture (roommates or spouses) or by familiar people exiting the picture (children leaving for college or divorces).
 
What then, is included in the list of “items” stressed kitties guard so fiercely? Food and water bowls, toys, games and cat tunnels, litter boxes, cat scratchers and scratching posts, cat trees and napping spots, and purr-ticularly people. And the ways they display their displeasure include hissing to warn the other cat(s) to stay away, swatting at the other cat(s) and sometimes their guardians to stay away, literally blocking the other cat or cats’ access to anything they consider theirs, scratching various items as a way of “claiming” them, and spraying or urinating on some items and even people.
 
Should you notice your kitty guarding her resources from a new feline addition to “her” family, stop it early to both prevent her behavior from escalating and to ensure there’s harmony between all parties in your household. Consider, then, these suggestions. Put down a food bowl for each cat before mealtimes. Remove the lids from all of the litter boxes to prevent one cat from trapping the other inside them. Set up several litter box areas to give the bullied cat other options if your cat is guarding one area. Spend equal quality one-on-one time with each cat and engage them in stimulating playtime activities together. Supply them with enough toys, games and scratching posts, cat trees, cubbyholes and cat beds so that each cat can lay claim to her own. Experiment with several natural flower essences known to reduce stress and encourage calm. Shower your cats with effusive praise and reward them with high value treats whenever they’re together without either bullying or guarding. And, as a last resort, discuss the matter with your vet to see if your cats’ anxieties can be reduced by medication.

by Nomi Berger
 
Feline vertigo or feline vestibular disease refers to a sudden, non-progressive disturbance of balance. Capable of affecting cats of all ages, those afflicted with it will become disoriented and nauseous, develop a head tilt (they often lean or fall in the direction of their head tilt), have irregular, jerking eye movements called nystagmus, and even vomit.
 
What, then, is the vestibular system? It’s the system responsible for maintaining a cat’s normal balance with central components located in the brain and peripheral components located in the inner and middle ear.
 
The possible causes of feline vertigo include middle or inner ear infections, trauma or injury, drugs toxic to the ear, hypothyroidism and tumors, particularly in older cats. When no specific cause for a cat’s condition can be determined, it’s referred to as feline idiopathic vestibular disease. Why? Because the sudden onset of the above-mentioned signs show a subsequent and rapid improvement with little, if any, medical intervention.
 
There are no specific tests for feline vestibular disease itself. Most cases are diagnosed based on your particular cat’s medical history, clinical signs and a thorough physical examination by your vet as well as on the results of some or all of the following: blood tests, urine tests (these check for urinary tract infections and kidney function), ear cultures and cytology (examination of any discharge or fluids found in the ear canal), spinal fluid analysis, testing for kidney, liver and pancreatic function, thyroid testing to determine hormone production, and electrolyte tests to check for dehydration or an electrolyte imbalance.
 
In some cases, testing may also include blood pressure measurements and head x-rays to assess the appearance of the middle and inner ears while, occasionally, a CT scan or MRI will be performed to look for tumors or other abnormalities.
 
Any subsequent course of action will ultimately depend on your cat’s symptoms and on whether a cause for her condition has been established. If a cause has indeed been determined, then the underlying condition will be treated rather than the vestibular disease itself.
 
In the case of middle or inner ear infections, however, your vet may prescribe antibiotics or anti-fungal medications as well as a medication to reduce her motion sickness, nausea and vomiting. Since idiopathic vestibular disease is a short-term, self-resolving condition, its symptoms are typically worse in the first 24 to 48 hours and improve steadily over the next two to three weeks
 
But, as a conscientious pet parent, you can help your kitty feel better while her symptoms are at their worst by following these suggestions:
Manage your own stress because cats are extremely sensitive to our emotions.
Keep her confined in a quiet, safe space far from any stairs.
Support her by surrounding her with a thick, rolled up blanket.
Ensure that her food and water bowls and litter box are at ground level and nearby.
Make certain that she remains hydrated and fed if she can’t do so herself.
If she’s unable to stand at all, assist her in changing positions periodically to prevent any sores from developing on her body.
Avoid the temptation to carry her since she has to walk in order to re-train her “navigational” system.
 
Whereas the majority of cats make a complete recovery, some severely affected ones may be left with a head tilt. The good news is that in most cases of feline idiopathic vestibular disease, the condition will never reappear.

by Nomi Berger
 
While not the norm for most healthy cats, in special circumstances, your vet may recommend the use of an elevated cat bowl for YOUR kitty.
 
Which felines, you may wonder, fit into this purr-ticular category?
 
Cats with megaesophagus: A medical condition in which the esophagus doesn’t function properly, inappropriate muscle contractions in your cat’s esophagus affects her ability to move food smoothly and efficiently from her mouth to her stomach. This will cause her to regurgitate whatever undigested food remains shortly after she’s eaten. An elevated cat bowl will allow gravity to move the food she’s eating downward from her mouth and directly into her stomach. Now her esophagus no longer has to move that same food upward towards her stomach as it must when she’s hunched over her food bowl on the floor.
 
Cats with other eating and/or swallowing problems: If your kitty, for example, is suffering from a neurological disorder, severe dental disease or an acute upper respiratory infection that makes swallowing difficult, the use of an elevated food bowl will, again, overcome gravity, making it easier for her to take food into her mouth and then swallow it properly.
 
Cats with mobility issues: If your cat – particularly a senior cat -- suffers from severe neck, back or joint pain in her front and/or hind legs, for example, bending down to eat from a bowl on the floor may be as cumbersome as it is challenging. Experiment, through a process of trial and error, with bowls of different heights to determine which one is most comfortable and most likely to ease at least some of her extreme discomfort.
 
Whatever your kitty’s issue, take into consideration both the height of the bowl and the diameter of the bowl (choose either a rounded or a slanted interior). Pay special attention to the material of the bowl. Generally, stainless steel, ceramic or glass bowls are best because they’re easier to sanitize – which is essential. Avoid plastic bowls since they’re prone to developing tiny surface scratches with use and over time, making them next to impossible to thoroughly disinfect.
 
Elevated bowls are available as individual bowls or as a combined stand that holds both a food bowl and a water bowl. Once again, experimentation is key. While some cats do well using a stand with paired food and water bowls, others, mainly messy eaters, don’t -- and shouldn’t use them. Why? A pair of bowls, side by side, may lead to the water in their water bowl being contaminated with food particles from their food bowl far more often.
 
For safety’s sake, clean your cat’s food and water bowls once a day -- or after each meal if you’re feeding her wet canned food – to reduce the risk of bacteria contaminating them and thereby potentially posing a health risk to you both. While they can simply be hand-washed in hot, soapy water, most bowls are dishwasher-safe and can, instead, be washed even more thoroughly and safely, in your dishwasher.
 

by Nomi Berger
 
Whatever their purr-ferred position, cats typically sleep with their paws over their faces.
 
While obviously comfortable and undeniably cute, why DO our feline friends cover their faces when they sleep? Here are some of the most plausible explanations for this behavior.
 
One reason is warmth. When they’re asleep, they lose more of their customary body heat due to the fact that they’re lying still. And since most of that heat comes from their paws, ears and the tips of their noses, covering their faces with their paws or curling themselves into a ball helps keep that essential heat inside while they sleep. They also instinctively curl themselves up more tightly in winter because the cold can be dangerous for them. Should their body temperature drop below a certain level, they can get hypothermia, which, in worst case scenarios, can lead to coma and even death.
 
A second reason is it blocks out the light. Since cats are crepuscular -- most active during the twilight hours – by nature, they spend most of their days sleeping. This means they must sleep when it’s light outside, often in direct sunlight thanks to its soothing warmth, and they use their paws to cover their eyes the way we humans use sleep masks.
 
A third reason is it blocks out noise. For most cats, even the slightest noise can wake them from their slumber. An instinct born as a survival mechanism for cats living in the wild, they would snap awake at the slightest noise, and if that noise meant danger, they could swiftly flee. How likely your own cat is to be wakened by a loud noise depends on how deeply she sleeps and how well her ears are covered.
 
A fourth reason is a sense of security. While cats, primarily outdoors and feral cats, are predators, hunting birds, mice and other small rodents, cats in the wild are the prey of many larger animals. Most vulnerable when asleep, their faces are vulnerable too, and should their faces be attacked, these cats’ chances of survival would be slim. And although your inside cat isn’t in danger of being attacked by a predator when she’s asleep, this behavior is, once again, instinctual.
 
A fifth reason is exhaustion. Cats don’t only use their paws to cover their faces when they sleep, they also use their paws to self-groom. Obsessively devoting nearly one third of the day to grooming themselves – a tiring feat in and of itself – if they fall asleep in the middle of washing their faces, their paws will land directly over their eyes. The very act of moving their paws down in order to sleep may, quite simply, be too much of an effort for them.
 
Last, but not least, your cat may be covering her face while she’s sleeping as a hint to the rest of her loving household that she needs her space and purr-fers to be left alone. Think of it as an unwritten “Do Not Disturb” sign and respect your favorite feline’s wishes. Rest assured: she’ll amply reward your thoughtfulness when she wakes up.

by Nomi Berger
 
To ease the discomfort of teething, kittens are notorious for nibbling and chewing, chomping and biting on anything within reach of their tiny paws – including your fingers and toes.
 
Kittens invariably begin to lose their baby teeth at around the age of nine weeks, while their adult teeth won’t have grown in fully until they’re between five and six months old. What more purr-fect time then, for every pet parent to teach their kitten some early “table” manners, i.e., what is and what isn’t appropriate when it comes to chewing and biting.
 
Consider the five following suggestions to make your new life together ever so much easier.
 
1. Once solely a doggy’s domain, chew toys are now fabulously feline friendly. Manufacturers, near and far, produce toys specifically designed to provide appropriate “targets” for those budding kitten teeth. Choose from a vast array of these treasures ranging from cloth toys that can be chilled to ease your kitten’s tender gums and firmer chews that will exercise her jaw muscles to nylon-based toys made expressly for teething.
 
2. Discover the wonders of interactive playtime and integrate it into your own daily routine. Why, you may ask? Every teething – and growing -- kitten requires vigorous, interactive play because it not only helps her work off excess energy, it also helps develop her balance and build up her strength. Using one or more of a variety of specially designed teaser toys at least twice a day for 10 to 15 minutes each time will both give your kitten a suitable object for her chewing and reinforce the growing pet-parent bond between you.
 
3. Of utmost importance: whenever you’re petting your kitten, make certain to keep your hands away from her mouth. Follow this same rule when playing with her. Never use your fingers as objects she can all too easily and confusedly consider fair game for her teeth. No mixed signals, paw-lease!
 
4. Be prepared to use the word “Ow!” if your teething kitten happens to bite you. Why? Because whenever the play between two cats becomes too rowdy or rough, the victim will emit a high-pitched cry, causing the aggressor to back away, and, ultimately flee. Say “Ow!” in a high-pitched but not overly loud voice, then promptly put your biting kitten on the floor. Referred to as the “Ow” and Down” technique, using it consistently will teach your wayward kitten that biting on her part means no playing or petting on your part.
 
5. Always ensure that, wherever you are, you have several chew toys close by. This way, if you’re sitting with your teething kitten and notice her expression suddenly signal, “I’m in the mood to bite something,” you can swiftly hand her a teething-appropriate toy, thereby taking your fingers safely off the proverbial menu.
 
In short, by lovingly, patiently and consistently reinforcing the message that only certain items are reserved for your teething kitten’s nibbles and chews, chomps and bites, you’re paving the way for the most purr-fect of futures together.

by Nomi Berger
 
With the arrival of spring comes the birth of millions of newborn kittens, the majority of them born to feral cats living outdoors. Fortunately, however, most of these kittens will make excellent family pets if they’re rescued and properly socialized at an early age.
 
Enter the compassionate, attentive and nurturing foster home. And yet, tragically, despite the most ideal conditions, a disproportionate number of these well-tended kittens will succumb to fading kitten syndrome. According to the most recent estimates, 15 to 27 percent of them will die before they’re nine weeks old, while mortality among litters of foster kittens can be as devastatingly high as 100 percent.
 
What, then, is fading kitten syndrome? And, more importantly, can it be treated?
 
Fading kitten syndrome describes and encompasses a number of problems and conditions that can cause young kittens to die. Most of those who die from this syndrome seem to sicken and die suddenly. With a few exceptions, such as trauma and hypothermia, however, the problem usually builds gradually and is extremely difficult to detect until a crisis develops. The key, therefore, to reducing such a high mortality rate in these kittens is the early detection of any subtle problems before a crisis develops.
 
Potential causes of fading kitten syndrome include:
Inadequate mothering by the kittens’ mother. Most foster kittens are particularly at risk if they were orphaned or abandoned by their mothers. Even kittens with mothers can be at risk if those mothers are young and inexperienced, stressed, malnourished, unable to produce enough milk, unwilling to allow their kittens to nurse or are, paradoxically, obese.
 
Bacterial infectious that result in sepsis. Viral infections like calcivirus, feline herpesvirus, feline AIDS (FIV), feline leukemia (FeLV) and panleukopenia. Parasitic infestations with coccidia, roundworms or other organisms. Many of these infections are linked to a complete collapse of the immune system, usually associated with a condition called thymus atrophy.
 
Hereditary defects ranging from heart irregularities to undeveloped immune systems. Hemolytic anemia, which occurs when a kitten’s blood type differs from her mother’s. When that kitten nurses during the first days of her life, she ingests antibodies that will attack her blood cells.
 
While the early signs of fading kitten syndrome are subtle, they’re usually detectable, and foster parents should be aware of them. Sick kittens may not be capable of righting themselves when turned on their backs. They may have a poor suckling reflex. Their eyes may not open at the usual age of five days to two weeks. They will often be smaller than their littermates and may not gain weight normally. Healthy kittens should gain from 7 to 10 grams a day. (Many experts recommend weighing kittens on a gram scale twice a day). Kittens not gaining weight at an appropriate rate must, therefore, receive extra attention with a special focus on feeding.
 
Fosters should be on the alert for constant noises such as whining or crying even after feeding, gradually worsening lethargy, weakness, labored breathing, vomiting, diarrhea and nasal or eye discharge. These symptoms constitute a crisis and require an immediate visit to the vet. Recovery is possible if the underlying cause can be quickly identified and treatment started in time. Supportive care usually includes fluids, dextrose to support blood sugar levels, antimicrobials, nutritional support, oxygen support and body temperature support.
 
If a kitten does survive this crucial period and grows stronger, long-term management in her foster home must focus on proper nutrition, scrupulously clean living conditions, preventative health care, and especially close monitoring of her food intake to ensure she gains weight. Sadly, though, the prognosis for most kittens in crisis is poor, with many of them dying even with treatment. And one kitten lost doesn’t augur well for that kitten’s remaining littermates.

by Nomi Berger
 
Are unsightly and uncomfortable scabs making YOUR kitty itchy and irritable? If so, what’s causing them?
 
One of the main culprits is miliary dermatitis, where itchy scabs appear on a cat’s neck, back and tail. Most often the result of a fleabite allergy, whereby a cat is allergic to a substance in flea saliva, a single bite can trigger severe itching in her. Although you’re unlikely to find fleas on your affected cat due to her fastidious grooming habits, you will be able to see flea droppings -- composed of digested blood.
 
Some cats have food allergy dermatitis and may exhibit hypersensitive reactions to one or more components in their diet. Other possible causes of allergies include atopy, a type of allergic reaction in response to inhaled allergens, and contact dermatitis or contact allergies. Some cats may react adversely to materials in their owners’ bedding, carpets or rugs. Seasonal allergens – from pollen in the air to grasses, weeds and bushes -- can also cause intense itching in especially sensitive cats, not to mention chemicals commonly used in households and on gardens and lawns.
 
Next on the list of possibilities are skin parasites such as ticks, lice and mites, nutritional deficiencies due to an unbalanced or inappropriate diet, and immune-mediated skin diseases. While they themselves don’t cause a cat’s scabs, her frenzied scratching, chewing and licking in an attempt to find relief from the itching will – by eventually breaking the surface of the skin. The longer she claws at the scabs, the greater the chance of secondary bacterial or fungal infections, making treating her all the more complicated. It’s therefore essential to bring YOUR unhappy kitty to the vet as promptly as possible.
 
The diagnosis of miliary dermatitis is based primarily on your cat’s medical history and her symptoms. Your vet will, in all likelihood, check for signs of fleas and flea dirt, collect some skin scrapings, run allergy tests and take biopsies if necessary. You may even be referred to a veterinary dermatologist.
 
Ultimately, treating her scabs and itchy skin will depend on identifying the trigger and then, relieving her symptoms. If a flea allergy is to blame, your vet will prescribe a flea medication for at least two to three months. If it’s a mite or lice infestation, medicated baths or sprays should help. If it’s a food allergy, a hypoallergenic food trial (without the offending allergens) may make all the difference. She may also be put on a brief course of corticosteroids or other anti-inflammatory drugs to help ease her itching while any other prescribed medication works to eliminate the root cause of her condition.
 
Should a secondary infection be involved, your vet will prescribe a round of antibiotics or antifungals for a given period of time. But remember: even if her skin problem begins to resolve itself within a few days of starting any medication, you MUST finish the entire prescription to prevent it from recurring, which can be more serious and more difficult to address. Additional protocols may also include giving her antihistamines and/or cyclosporine and supplementing her diet with essential fatty acids.
 
Fortunately, most cats diagnosed with miliary dermatitis have an excellent prognosis. But to err on the side of caution and keep it, wherever possible, from becoming an issue in the first place, your cat’s preventive health program should include a monthly flea preventative to ensure she’s adequately protected throughout the year. If your cat spends any time outside, keep her inside instead, thereby reducing both her exposure to various outdoor allergens and keeping her away from any cats potentially infested with fleas, mites and other parasites.