by Nomi Berger
 
Feline epiphora, simply put, is an overflow of tears from a cat’s eyes. A symptom rather than a specific disease, it’s associated with a variety of conditions.
 
Normally, a thin film of tears is produced to lubricate your cat’s eyes, leaving the excess fluid to drain into the tear ducts, located in the corner of each eye next to her nose, which, in turn, drain tears into the back of her nose and throat. Usually associated with insufficient drainage of this tear film is a blockage of the tear ducts or poor eyelid function due to some sort of deformity. Conversely, epiphora may result from the excessive production of tears.
 
The most obvious signs of epiphora are dampness or wetness beneath her eyes, reddish-brown staining of the fur beneath her eyes, odor, skin irritation and skin infection. In some instances, you may even see tears rolling down your kitty’s face.
 
A vet visit is the first step in determining if there is an underlying cause for her excess tear production. Some of these causes include abnormal eyelashes (distichia or ectopic cilia), allergies, anatomical abnormalities such as rolled in eyelids (entropion) or rolled out eyelids (ectropion), conjunctivitis (viral or bacterial), corneal ulcers, eye infections, eye injuries and glaucoma.
 
Should these causes be eliminated, it’s essential to determine whether or not there IS proper and adequate tear drainage. Your vet will perform a thorough ocular exam, paying special attention to your cat’s tear ducts and nearby tissues, and checking for any signs of inflammation or other abnormalities. One of the simplest tests involves placing a drop of fluorescein stain in the eye, holding her head slightly downward, and watching for drainage into her nose. If the drainage system is functioning normally, the stain should appear in her nose within minutes. If none is seen, it doesn’t definitively diagnose a blocked tear duct and merits further investigation.
 
Your cat will then be anesthetized and a special instrument inserted into the duct to flush out its contents. In some instances, the duct may not have opened during her development, and if so, it can be surgically opened during this procedure. If chronic infections or allergies have caused the ducts to narrow, flushing may help widen them. If, however, the cause is related to another eye condition, other treatment options may include surgery.
 
If your cat has an eye infection, your vet may prescribe a topical antibiotic such as oxytetracycline, triple antibiotic ointments intended for pets or topical antivirals like idoxuridine. If, however, she has an upper respiratory infection or nasal discharge or can’t tolerate eye drops, your vet may prescribe an oral antibiotic like doxycycline or azithromycin.
 
Unless an underlying cause can be found and treated, most cats with epiphora will experience intermittent episodes all of their lives. If your cat’s facial anatomy (such brachycephalic breeds as Persians and Himalayans) prevents adequate drainage of the tear film, some degree of epiphora will persist regardless, and in most cases, no significant problems may arise, and the tear staining may merely be cosmetic. The most you can do in this case is clean the area under your kitty’s eyes with gentle wipes designed specifically for pets.

by Nomi Berger
 
Is your favorite feline finding it nearly im-paws-ible to jump to and from her most preferred perch? Is she meowing – as in “ouch!” -- after completing a once-easy jump even onto a couch or a chair? Is she suffering from arthritis or other joint problems, recovering from an injury or surgery, including the amputation of a leg? Is she losing her vision? Or is she simply aging? If any of these scenarios sounds achingly familiar, consider providing her with either a set of stairs or a ramp.
 
To conserve space, purchase a set of stairs instead of a ramp. Many are collapsible or easily transportable, allowing you to both move them when necessary and put them away. With a steeper incline, and shorter than a ramp, if your cat can manage them, they may be the most convenient option. Each individual step should be no more than 7 ½” tall and at least 10” deep since cats like having the space to maneuver. Most importantly, the top step should be no less than 7 1/2” shorter than the surface it leads to.
 
Buy a model with safety rails along the side of the stairs to stop your cat if she starts falling off. This is especially important if she’s losing or has already lost much of her sight. One obvious clue  -- since all vision-impaired animals will have long since memorized their surroundings – will be her tendency to bump into furniture more often, particularly if you’ve moved some of that furniture around.
 
While some cats – especially those who have never used stairs before -- are unlikely to use stairs if introduced to them late in life or if they already have trouble walking around, a ramp may prove to be the safest option. It usually helps to get your kitty accustomed to a ramp beforehand, so consider buying one as soon as she displays any mobility issues, such as walking less or displaying changes in her gait. And remember, any ramp you buy should be high enough to be level with its intended surface.
 
Purchase one with a gentler slope for older cats or those who are already severely impaired -- a low slope of 18 degrees is best. For cats whose difficulties are still moderate, a steeper one at 26 degrees may still be suitable. The best ramp is one covered in a non-looping, plush carpet. Not only does it provide traction, preventing your cat from falling off, her nails won’t get caught or stuck in a carpet with loops. One note of caution: buy a ramp for a chair, couch or bed, but NEVER buy a ramp leading UP, UP, UP to bookcases, closet shelves, high perches or windows.
 
Because ramps and steps are unfamiliar to most cats, it’s essential that you introduce yours slowly and patiently to them, preferably in a quiet space free from unwanted distractions. Begin by placing treats on the ramp or bottom step of the stairs to get her started. And although she may not do so immediately, put another treat in the middle of the ramp or stair. Once she’s actually on it, place more treats on top of the ramp or stairs, thereby teaching and encouraging her how to make her way up it. And since practice makes purr-fect, practice, practice, practice while continuing to pave her way to success with treat after treat after treat. Provide her with the gentle guidance and patient support she needs to keep her from rushing or jumping off, slipping or falling off until she’s fully confident, comfortable, and capable of safely ascending and descending the ramp or steps on her own.
 

by Nomi Berger
 
Our feline fur-iends are famous for staring!
 
They are the most curious of observers, whether it’s staring at you, at the wall, outside a window (for up to five hours a day) or seemingly at nothing at all. Have you ever paw-ndered the reasons for these legendary and oh-so-photogenic stares? If so, consider the following:
 
Whatever the breed, cats have huge eyes when compared to the size of the rest of their bodies. They also blink about twice a minute while we, as humans, blink between 15 to 20 times a minute.
 
Compared to humans, cats are nearsighted. The average human visual acuity is 20/20. What does this mean? It means that when our visual acuity is tested, the detail we’re able to see is from 100 to 200 feet away. Feline visual acuity, however, ranges from between 20/100 and 20/200, indicating that cats can only see clearly from 20 feet away. What’s clear to us at a distance of 100 feet, therefore, appears blurry to cats.
 
But whatever they lack in visual acuity, they compensate for -- thanks to other advantages. The more numerous rods in their retinas allow them to see in one-sixth the amount of light that we require. They also have a wider field of vision at 200 degrees whereas our field of vision is 180 degrees. Blessed with the ability to detect the tiniest insect or speck of dust at close range, this, paired with their superior peripheral vision, lets them fixate on things we wouldn’t even notice.
 
Since domesticated cats have adapted to people’s habits and use our “signals” to gather information, they don’t merely notice a person’s gaze they actually follow it. Not to mention staring at YOU!
 
Examples:
 
Affection: If your cat is staring at you through squinted eyes and giving you a slow blink while her body’s relaxed, she’s demonstrating the feline version of love and trust. Commonly referred to as cat “eye kisses,” they’re that much more meaningful when you respond to her “advances” by slow blinking back at her.
 
Hunger: If your cat is hungry, she may stare at you in an effort to get the message across. If it’s either close to mealtime or if she’s actually standing near her food bowl, she’ll make direct eye contact with you – often accented with a “meow” -- until her obvious request for food has been met.
 
Hunting: Given that cats are innately predators, they will focus on their prey by staring at them intently. Have you ever observed your own kitty staring at a bird outside the window and seeing her flinch with every movement the bird makes? This means she’s hyper-focused on staring that bird down.
 
Other cats: If yours is a multi-cat household, you’ve no doubt observed them staring at each other, i.e. staring each other down. Because all cats are territorial, this behavior can be one of dominance, aggression over beds or access to litter boxes or something far more pleasant such as initiating playing and wrestling.

by Nomi Berger
 
As creatures of habit who crave their creature comforts, cats don’t always make the best road trip companions. But by mapping out kitty’s trip together with your own, you can curtail her bad “backseat driver” behavior, and turn a potentially negative experience into a purr-fectly paws-itive one.
 
Consider the following suggestions to smooth the way for everyone – human and feline:
 
Remain calm. Because cats sense our stress, don’t raise your voice or display any overt signs of your own pre-trip tension.
 
Should your trip be longer than a day, make reservations ahead of time solely at pet-friendly motels or hotels.
 
Carry your most up-to-date vet paperwork, showing, at the very least, that your cat is current on her rabies shots.
 
Never medicate an overly anxious cat without first consulting your vet. Many OTC calming agents are dangerous for cats, and if you do use a medication prescribed by your vet, always try it out at home first to test for any reactions and/or side effects.
 
If your cat tends to get car sick, avoid feeding her between two and three hours prior to your departure.
 
Train your cat to wear a harness so that she can remain safely harnessed inside the car. Her harness should bear a name tag with all pertinent ID (microchipping is, of course, the best ID), and a leash should be clipped to it whenever you remove kitty from her carrier or from the car itself.
 
Have your cat travel comfortably by keeping her in a large carrier or dog crate, allowing her room enough to stretch and move around during the drive. Set the crate or carrier in a well-ventilated part of the car, out of excessive drafts and away from direct sunlight.
 
Drape a sheet over the crate or carrier, leaving one side open, to help her feel more snug, safe and secure.
 
Place a familiar blanket, several cushions, or a worn T-shirt with your scent on it inside the crate or carrier. Rotate various cat toys along the way (this works particularly well with a young kitten) to keep her stimulated and occupied.
 
Line the bottom with pee pads as a precaution and put a small, disposable litter pan (aluminum baking pans work well) inside the carrier or crate, and ensure you have a generous supply of both to last the entire trip. Stock up on sanitized wipes and strong plastic bags to handle any and all “litter box” accidents.
 
If your cat has an appetite, feed her the same food that she eats at home and keep her water bowl only partly filled to avoid spilling.
 
Never let your cat out of the car at “rest stops” unless she’s well trained to walk on a harness and leash. And above all, never leave kitty unattended -- on either hot or cold days.
 
As they say, forewarned is forearmed. Hopefully then, armed with these few tips, you and your cat can share a road trip to remember – fondly.

 by Nomi Berger
 
Picture yourself on a sweltering summer day wearing a long fur coat. Are you hot yet? Itchy? Thirsty? Desperately searching for shade?
 
Now picture your cats on that same summer day. And you’ll have some idea of how THEY feel.
 
Keeping cats cool and comfortable is essential to keeping them safe INside. Protecting them from the hot sun, hot air and hot ground is essential to keeping them safe OUTside. All it requires is common sense and some advance planning.
 
If you have air conditioning, cool down your place as much as possible before you leave for work/play/the day. Draw blinds/curtains and leave the air conditioning on low.
 
If you don’t have air conditioning, place fans in the windows and run them on “exhaust” to circulate the air without sucking in the hot air outside. Keep blinds/curtains drawn.
 
Freeze a bottle of water and place it IN your cat’s bed or place a package of frozen peas UNDER the covering of the bed.
 
Feeling extravagant? Purchase a cat bed that stays cool through low voltage electricity.
 
Store small plastic containers of water in the freezer overnight. Place the now-iced containers around your cat’s other favorite cuddling/napping spot(s).
 
Keep your cat’s food and water bowls out of any direct sunlight, and fill the water bowl with ice cubes to help it remain chilled for hours.
 
Keep activity to a minimum and discourage your cat from playing.
 
For those with a screened-in patio that their cat enjoys, put up shades on the sides that face the sun, set out several bowls of iced water and check on them throughout the day.
 
If gone for the day, consider keeping your cat in the bathroom to lie on the tiled floor or counter top or to curl up in the bathtub or sink.
 
If going on a road trip in a car without air conditioning, place a wet towel over your cat’s carrier or attach a small battery-operated fan to the outside of the carrier.
 
Fill the food and water cups inside the carrier with crushed ice for extra cooling, and use a spray bottle of cold water to occasionally wet your cat’s coat.
 
If traveling in a car WITH air conditioning, keep it on and ensure that the airflow reaches your cat’s carrier.
 
Never leave your cat tethered outside in the shade. As the day progresses and the light shifts, your cat will be directly exposed to the sun’s harmful rays and heat.
 
Never shave your cat’s fur as it offers SOME protection against sunburn. Pale and light-skinned cats MUST stay out of the sun because their ears and the tips of their noses are prone to skin cancer.
 
Never leave your cat in a parked car (even with the windows cracked) for even a few minutes. (Leaving the A/C on with the motor running is an environmental no-no). The inside of a car heats up quickly, making it much hotter than the air outside and can lead swiftly to heat stroke.
 
The symptoms of heat stroke include rapid panting, difficulty breathing, increased heart rate, erratic/wobbly walking, and redder than normal gums.
 
Should you observe any of these symptoms, wrap your cat in a cool, wet towel, and get to your veterinarian or to an animal hospital immediately.
 
Being a responsible cat guardian means being an informed cat guardian.
 
The list of safety rules may seem long, but the hot days of summer are even longer.
 
 

by Nomi Berger
 
Have you ever wondered why your cat suddenly throws herself down and starts rolling around on her back?
 
A common misconception is that a cat’s exposed belly – her most sensitive spot – means belly rubs, paw-lease. Consider then, some of the other reasons behind her behavior.
 
To stretch her muscles: When a cat wakes up from a nap or deep sleep, she will often turn over onto her back and roll around while stretching her neck, back and legs. If this is the case, don’t interfere! Resist the impulse to reach out and pet her or pat her on the head until she appears satisfied, relaxed and calm – or run the risk of being bitten.
 
To scratch her back: An itchy back will often cause a cat to roll around on the ground and rub herself back and forth, back and forth in order to find relief. As with all animals, cats are prone to dry skin and/or parasites such as mites and fleas that live in their fur and are capable of causing extreme itchiness and/or triggering skin allergies. If your cat seems unaccountably and unusually uncomfortable when she’s wriggling about, look closely at her fur and skin.
 
Gently – and carefully -- examine her entire body, including her ears, face, neck, back, bum and legs for signs of either dry skin or parasites. Should you find mites or fleas in her fur, contact your veterinarian for guidance. You may either be asked to bring your cat in for a more thorough examination or be instructed as to which products to use to rid her of the infestation, relieve her discomfort and restore her to good health – and good humor.
 
To seek attention: Rolling around on her back is often a cat’s way of displaying how social and friendly she’s feeling without necessarily “asking” to be touched. At other times, it’s a clear sign that she does indeed welcome attention from and interaction with you. How will you know? She’ll rub her head on the ground while moving it round and round and loudly purr, purr, purring.
 
To initiate playtime: A frisky feline will invariably flop to the ground and roll around on her back, displaying her playful mood to people, other cats and, yes, even dogs. Since cats are proficient at reading their owners’ body language and speech, your cat may roll around on her back when she sees you and your family playing together – whatever the activity. To determine how proficient you are at reading her body language, toss her a small cat toy. If she promptly begins swatting it around and biting it, she’s most assuredly in a playful mood.

by Nomi Berger
 
What precisely is acupuncture and how does it work?
 
According to the philosophy of traditional Chinese medicine, illness is caused by an imbalance of vital energies in the body. Acupuncture, an important aspect of this philosophy, focuses on restoring the body’s energy balance, thereby promoting healing.
 
Just as with people, acupuncture involves inserting very fine, filament-like needles into your affected cat’s body at points where the nerves and blood vessels converge. Called meridian sites, they’re believed to be energy channels responsible for transmitting energy throughout your cat’s body. Once these needles are properly placed, they enhance blood circulation, stimulate the nervous system and increase the release of anti-inflammatory and pain-relieving substances in order to reduce your cat’s discomfort.
 
Research has shown that acupuncture works through modulating the nerve pathways by interacting with nerve fibers in both the skin and its underlying tissues. This leads to the release of beneficial chemicals, including opioid-like neurochemicals, from the brain and spinal cord. Close to the needles themselves, substances that encourage blood flow to the area are released, interrupting pain signals and releasing the trigger points that cause painful spasms.
 
By increasing the tissues’ oxygenation, acupuncture reduces the amount of waste products produced and enables the body to remove them more efficiently. By relaxing the muscles, it relieves pain locally and generally. By stimulating the release of naturally occurring pain-relieving and anti-inflammatory substances, it may also decrease the dosage of any pain medication or anti-inflammatory drug your cat currently takes. And since it has no systemic side effects, it’s especially beneficial for a cat in poor health.
 
Among the assorted ailments aided by acupuncture are allergies and other forms of non-infectious inflammation, arthritis and vertebral disc pathology, gastrointestinal problems such as diarrhea, pain, paralysis, respiratory problems such as feline asthma, skin problems such as lick granuloma and various reproductive problems. (Acupuncture should not, however, be used as an alternative to drugs or surgery to treat severe or acute pain. Nor is it always appropriate for cats with cancer. As always, discuss this with the person you trust most: your vet.)
 
Before your first appointment with a veterinary acupuncturist, your vet will have already sent ahead your cat’s medical records outlining a history of her condition, all lab results, x-rays if applicable, and her present medical treatment(s). The acupuncturist will perform their own physical examination of your cat, discuss various treatment options, and explain precisely what happens during an acupuncture session.
 
Although some cats can’t or won’t tolerate acupuncture, most of them do. Despite a slight initial prick, it subsides when the needle is left in her skin. Experienced acupuncturists are especially sympathetic to a cat’s needs. Using as few needles as possible, inserting only a few at a time, and allowing your cat to rest and stretch out between needles will ensure that her treatment is both gentle and pleasant.
 
A session typically lasts between 20 and 30 minutes depending on the condition(s) being addressed, after which the acupuncturist will outline a treatment plan for your cat involving one to three sessions weekly for several weeks. While there are few side effects with acupuncture, your cat may be stiff, sore or seem tired after a session, but these symptoms usually resolve themselves within 24 to 48 hours.
 
As your cat improves, the number of sessions will be reduced accordingly. And although acupuncture’s beneficial effects are cumulative, the aim is to achieve and maintain the highest level of improvement with the fewest possible sessions. But if your cat can’t tolerate needles, consider trying low-level lasers and infrared light instead.

by Nomi Berger
 
Started in 1974 by the American Humane Association, June has, since then, been known as National Adopt a Cat Month. And its significance is doubly meaningful because June is also the month of the year when the most kittens are born.
 
Animal rescue groups and shelters everywhere are filled with kittens and cats seeking forever homes: felines of every breed and combination of breeds, featuring as many diverse personalities as they have coats and colors, born on the streets or in a shelter, surrendered or abandoned by their owners.
 
And never was it more vital than NOW to consider adopting one of the millions of available kitties, thereby making YOUR homes their forever homes. Not only are kitties good for your health, they’re amusing and affectionate, sociable and silly, playful and precocious, chatty, snuggly and cuddly, and as eager to lap up your loving as they are to return it. But before you make such a life-altering decision – for them and for you – carefully consider the following three factors: dedication, finances and lifestyle.
 
Dedication: This is the initial and therefore the most important factor. Unequivocal and unquestioned commitment to a kitten or cat as the newest member of your family will assist you in successfully managing whatever future, unforeseen problems, obstacles or inevitable challenges lie ahead. And because cats can now live for 20 years or more, you and your chosen kitty are destined to experience a lifetime of changes, positive and negative, sweet and bittersweet, together.
 
Finances: Although anyone at any income level can be a good pet parent, remember that the kitten or cat you adopt will be entirely dependent on you for life. If you want your home to be as feline friendly as possible, this means, among other things, paying for food, water and food bowls, litter boxes and litter, cat trees, scratching posts and cat tunnels, games and toys – all of which can cost thousands of dollars over your cat's lifetime. But most importantly, there are the costs of caring for your cat’s health: the vet vists, both routine and urgent, the unexpected accidents, unanticipated illnesses, diagnostics and medications, and the money all of that entails. And since kittens are typically more costly than adult cats, they’ll require extra vaccinations, vet visits, food and supplies over the span of their lives
 
Lifestyle: More independent, lower maintenance and more self-sufficient than dogs, ideal for people who either work long hours or lead busy personal lives, anyone adopting a kitten or cat MUST care for them daily -- from training and feeding them to cleaning and playing with them. Think emptying soiled litter boxes and disposing of litter, vacuuming carpets and removing cat hair from furniture. Think interacting with them to build and strengthen your bond through playtime – from beaming laser lights around walls and floors to having them chase wand toys with feathers attached to them.
 
For a potential adopter living on your own, the decision is yours and yours alone. If, however, you have a roommate, spouse or an entire family, one potential obstacle is allergies. Is anyone either a highly allergic person or allergic specifically to cats? Do you have a baby, toddler or very young children who wouldn’t know how to treat a kitten or a cat? Does everyone in your household even want to adopt a kitty?
 
Once you’ve chosen to invite a feline friend into your life, visit our website or Facebook page to view the kitties available, and hopefully one or more will “speak” to you. The next step is to email us your application, and when you’re contacted, to visit us. More often than not, the purr-fect kitty or kitties will choose you!
 
While in our care, the kittens and cats are provided with the best food and medical treatment as well as with constant attention and ongoing socialization. We know their personalities, what they like to eat and how they like to play. This vital information enables us to match the right kitten or cat with the right adopter, and ensure, to the best of our ability, that, together, they live happily and lovingly forever. 
 
And while Adopt a Cat Month may be celebrated in June, the need to adopt a kitten or cat continues month after month, all year round.

by Nomi Berger
 
Imagine two movable satellite dishes capable of swiveling, capturing and amplifying sound! Now, imagine them in miniature. This is the purr-fect description of a cat’s most impressive and extraordinarily designed ears.
 
Blessed with hearing that far surpasses that of dogs and even humans, cats not only have the broadest range when it comes to detectable sounds, they can even hear lower and higher frequencies than either dogs or humans. Whereas dogs can hear frequencies between 67 hertz to 45,000 hertz and humans can hear between 64 hertz to 23,000 hertz, cats can hear frequencies between 45 hertz to 64,000 hertz.
 
As one of nature’s truly efficient species of hunter/predators, cats in the wild were equipped to be seen, not heard. Since they preferred being the hunter and not the hunted, they moved stealthily and swiftly in search of prey. This innate ability was deftly embedded in their DNA, thereby benefiting today’s kittens’ and cats’ elegant ease whenever they stalk and pounce -- whether it’s a fellow feline or a fun feline toy.
 
By utilizing more than 32 different muscles in their outer ears (humans have six!), cats can swivel their ears up to 180 degrees, giving them the capability to better track specific sounds. The very act of swiveling each ear not only improves their hearing by an additional 15 to 20 percent, it enables them to pinpoint the exact origin of that sound. It’s also a “visual” way for them to express themselves to other cats – either outdoors or in a multi-cat household – and to their owners. Astute pet parents find these telltale ear movements extremely helpful in interpreting and better understanding their cats’ feelings, moods and even health.
 
Consider, then, the following positions of your own favorite feline’s ears:

· Ears that point forward: This so-called “neutral” position generally signifies that she’s feeling calm and/or content, and friendly. Take the hint and gently pick her up for some quality snuggle time.

· Ears that point upward: This position is often teamed with a high-alert stance – as in “standing at attention” -- and an equally alert facial expression, making confident and curious cats, inclined to “patrol” their home excellent guard cats. When your kitty’s ears are pointing upward, it’s also the ideal time to engage her in fun and games.

· Ears that are flattened and pointing backward: Forewarned is forearmed. This position, known as “airplane mode,” indicates that she’s frightened, irritated, overstimulated or uncomfortable -- all portents of potentially aggressive behavior to come. What she needs most, then, is space and privacy in order to decompress, usually by hiding in her favorite spot until she feels more secure and more balanced again.

· Ears that face sideways: If this position is accompanied by a defensive stance, it could progress to her ears flattening and pointing backward, indicating, once again, the possibility of fight or flight behavior. If, however, this position is accompanied by her moving quietly, slowly and almost gingerly, she may either be ill or in pain and doing her best to disguise it. Better safe than sorry. Schedule an immediate visit to your vet and have her undergo a thorough physical examination.

by Nomi Berger
 
Most cat owners are happily familiar with the warm and fuzzy feeling of being headbutted or “bunted” by their favorite felines. But have you ever wondered what’s behind that ever-so-famous behavior? If so, read on.
 
Pheromones, pheromones, pheromones! Kitties have glands on their foreheads, cheeks, behind their ears, and on their chins that contain this all-important substance. Produced as a form of scent communication in their environment – between fellow cats as well as on objects and, best of all, people – these pheromones are deposited by the acts of rubbing and headbutting.
 
Cats may headbutt and rub their face on such familiar objects as their cat tree or pieces of furniture. In so doing, they’re “marking” or claiming these objects in a paws-itive way, i.e. personalizing their surroundings and creating a safe space for themselves. They’re usually purring as well because they’re not only feeling relaxed and content, they’re thoroughly enjoying the scent of their very own pheromones. This form of solitary face rubbing may also be one of the ways in which they soothe themselves and regulate their own emotional state.
 
If a cat headbutts you, her pet parent, by tapping her head against you and rubbing her cheek along the body part nearest to her, she’s clearly ”marking” you as well. By connecting to you through her scent, she is, in effect, “choosing” you and therefore bonding with you. While you may not detect it, the mere fact that you smell like her is extremely reassuring to her. The clearest sign of affection there is, by claiming you, she’s, metaphorically, admitting you into her “inner circle” of favorites.
 
Sometimes, however, if your kitty headbutts you, it’s her way of letting you know that she wants attention. Your response, when she “presents” her head to you in this way, should be plentiful scratches under the chin and on the head – two kitty cat passions! If her headbutting is consistently providing her with the scratches she craves, she’ll most assuredly continue this successful attention-seeking practice, thus creating a pleasant ongoing cycle or …  a mutual admiration society of two.
 
Whenever an unfamiliar or newly adopted cat headbutts you, she’s usually checking you out – friend or foe. The wisest course of action is to move slowly and lower your head enough for her to sniff it and monitor her reaction. If she responds by headbutting you again, you could lightly headbutt her in return or, after an initial hand sniff for safety’s sake, gently scratch her head instead.
 
Many cats in a multi-cat household will headbutt their fellow felines as a show of affection. While the message will be clear to one and all, reactions to it can vary. Some cats may respond in kind while others may choose to ignore the gesture. Confident cats are known to headbutt more often and with more force than shy cats, and that the most self-assured among them will also be the household’s dominant cat.
 
Headbutting is even the way outdoor, semi-feral and feral cats communicate their connection with one another and establish a social bond between them. When cats within a colony headbutt each other, they’re actually mixing their scents in order to create a single scent. This unique blend is subsequently designated the colony’s scent and distributed to all of the cats in that particular colony.