by Nomi Berger
 
Have you ever been in the position of finding a litter of kittens and wondering what to do next? To keep or not to keep, that is the question.
 
Here, then, are some answers -- together with more questions.
 
1. If you find a litter of kittens on or near your property, quickly assess their health. If they appear healthy, watch them, but don’t move them. Their mother is likely nearby. Stay far enough away – several car lengths – that you’re not considered a threat by their mother if she’s feral. If, however, the kittens seem distressed or are very vocal, and if their mother hasn’t returned by the end of the day, she may NOT be returning.
 
2. Unless they're in danger, however, it's best to give their missing mother another chance to return and tend to them. Place them in a carrier or cardboard carton to keep them warm, safe and secure.
 
3. Try to determine the age of the kittens. Are they newborns with their eyes closed and weighing less than 8 ounces? Or are they 8 weeks old, weighing 2 pounds, and resembling miniature cats? Not to mention every age and weight in between. Each age brings with it a different set of criteria as to their proper maintenance and care. If they’re newborns, contact local rescue groups or no-kill shelters ONLY that may be willing to take them in immediately.
 
4. Are they feral (part of a colony of cats born to live and survive outdoors) or domestic kittens born to a family’s lost companion cat? Once again, this will determine the steps you take next.
 
5. If it’s either too hot or too cold outside, raining or snowing, bring the kittens indoors and confine them to a clean, quiet and small room -- whether a spare bedroom, bathroom or laundry room. Leave them in their carton or carrier with the door open, and provide them with a high-quality kibble, fresh water and cat litter.  If the kittens are too young to feed themselves, you’ll need to bottle feed them every couple of hours. Should you choose this course, either contact a local vet or rescue group for advice and guidance.
 
6. Within a few days, decide whether you want to temporarily foster them, bearing in mind that socializing them as quickly as possible will improve their chances of ultimately being adopted.
 
7. Although adorable and impossible to resist, kittens do have little claws and sharp teeth. To protect yourself from unnecessary “battle scars”, wear gloves until the kittens grow comfortable with being handled.
 
8. If you have other pets, keep them separated from the kittens to minimize the risk of their transmitting either parasites or infections to them.
 
9. To make fostering the kittens easier, speak with the volunteers at the rescue group you’ve already contacted and ask for their advice – on all matters from A to Z.
 
10. When it’s time for the kittens to “leave the nest”, either contact your vet, one who operates a re-homing center that will welcome yours if there’s room, or the rescue group. Relinquish the kittens into their care where they’ll be spay/neutered, then set on the right path towards finding their fur-ever homes.
 
By your actions, compassionate and caring, you’ll have not only saved several small lives, but you’ll have shared in an extraordinary experience, one you’re unlikely to ever forget.

by Nomi Berger
 
“Every sixty seconds, an animal is abused.”
 
This is according to the ASPCA. And so, they have designated April as “Prevention of Cruelty to Animals” Month. They have also urged their supporters everywhere to “Go Orange for Animals” to increase public awareness.
 
The following are ways YOU can help.
 
START A FUNDRAISING CAMPAIGN
Using your personal Facebook account, create an ASPCA fundraising page for an important event in your life and share it with friends and family. Whether you “donate” your birthday, honor the memory of a beloved pet or run a 5k with Team ASPCA, the money you raise will benefit needy animals nationwide.
 
SUPPORT A LOCAL ANIMAL SHELTER OR RESCUE GROUP
Drawing on your own, personal contacts, team up with a local shelter or rescue in sponsoring a ”Go Orange for Animals” event (wearing orange, of course). Whether it’s an adoption event or a donation drive, give them the proceeds and/or supplies you’ve collected, and know the difference you’re making is huge!
 
SHOW YOUR VIRTUAL SUPPORT
Spread the word about “Prevention of Cruelty to Animals” Month by posting on your social media networks using the hashtag #fightcruelty and tagging @aspca. Encourage your family and friends to follow the ASPCA on Facebook, Twitter, Instagram and Pinterest.
 
BECOME AN ANIMAL ACTIVIST
Visit the ASPCA Advocacy Center online, join their Advocacy Brigade to receive emails about important animal welfare-related legislation, and learn how YOU can become a voice for the voiceless.
 
MAKE ADOPTION YOUR FIRST OPTION
Looking for the perfect furry friend for your family? Both shelters and rescue groups have loving animals of all breeds, ages and colors who are desperate to find their own perfect families. By adopting, not shopping, you’re saving two lives: the life of the animal you adopt and the life of the animal taking his or her place.
 
How To Report Animal Cruelty:
 
If you witness the act yourself, you can go to your local police commissioner and ask to swear out a warrant summoning the accused person to court.
 
Or you can find out precisely where to report the incident in your area. Then, either call or email them, providing a concise, factual statement of what you observed, including the date and approximate time of the abuse.
 
If possible, photograph the abusive situation and date your pictures.
 
If possible, gather brief, factual written statements from other witnesses.
 
If you have documents pertinent to your complaint, always make copies for your own records before giving them to anyone else.
 
If you call to report a case of animal cruelty, keep a record of the person you contact, the date, and the content and outcome of your discussion. Make it clear that you are interested in pursuing the case, and that you will help in any way you can.
 
If you don’t receive a response from the agent/officer assigned to your case within a reasonable length of time, follow up. Present your information to his/her supervisor and, if necessary, to local government officials, such as the county commissioner, and ask them to act.
 
Remember. If YOU don’t speak up, this abuse is likely to happen again.

by Nomi Berger
 
The anal glands, sometimes called anal sacs, are two small pouches situated on either side of a cat’s anus -- at approximately the four o’clock and eight o’clock positions. Both sacs’ walls are lined with sweat glands that produce and store a foul-smelling fluid that is subsequently released through small ducts located just inside the anus.
 
Although these distinctive secretions allowed our domesticated cats’ ancestors to mark their territory and ward off predators, they serve little purpose today. And while small amounts of this fluid are released whenever cats defecate, some cats may actually release or “express” the entire contents of their anal glands when they’re either excited or frightened.
 
Whereas diseases of the anal glands are more common in dogs, they also appear in cats, and can include impaction, abscesses, ruptures and, in rare instances, tumors.
 
Impaction occurs when the duct leading from the anal gland to the anus becomes clogged, and as it fills up with an ever-thickening liquid, the gland becomes distended. As the gland distends, the pressure inside of it increases, causing the affected kitty extreme discomfort. The most common signs that your kitty’s anal gland is impacted include: excessive licking and cleaning of her anal area; a reluctance to sit; a reluctance to defecate; holding her tail in an unusual position, and “scooting” or dragging her anus along the carpet or floor. Should your cat be exhibiting any or several of these signs, bring her to the vet and have her anal glands expressed manually. This simple procedure will swiftly relieve the pressure inside the gland, thereby re-opening the clogged duct.
 
Sometimes, however, the first sign that a kitty’s in pain occurs when the anal gland’s impacted secretions become infected. This causes pus to accumulate inside the gland, and the result is an abscess. If the pus can’t pass through the duct leading from the gland towards the anus, it will simply “burrow” through the skin around the anus. In some cases, the pus will actually burst through the skin, draining out on its own.
 
If an anal gland ruptures, it often causes severe skin damage to the affected area. In order to treat it, your vet will typically anesthetize your cat and then thoroughly cleanse and surgically trim and/or remove all of the damaged skin. To reduce the size of the wound and promote faster healing, several stitches may be required. If, on the other hand, an abscess is diagnosed before the gland ruptures, your vet will lightly sedate or fully anesthetize your cat, lance the abscess and prescribe a course of antibiotics for her.
 
If your cat suffers from recurrent anal gland problems, she may benefit from a high-fiber diet. The added fiber helps to produce bulkier stools which, in turn, increases the pressure on her anal glands when she defecates and allows them to be expressed more efficiently.
 
Because overweight cats are more prone to anal gland disorders, keep your own cat at a healthy weight to help reduce her chances of incurring these problems. On rare occasions, cats suffering from repeated impactions and/or abscesses may need to have their anal glands surgically removed.
 
Cancer of the anal glands, or anal gland adenocarcinoma, is, thankfully, uncommon in cats. Its symptoms often mimic those of an anal gland abscess, such as bleeding, inflammation, pain, swelling and ulceration of the skin around the anus. While the preferred treatment is surgically removing the cancerous anal gland, these tumors tend to be aggressive, and by the time a diagnosis is made, the cancer, sadly, has often spread to other parts of the cat’s body.

by Nomi Berger
 
Have you ever paw-ndered the reasons behind your favorite feline’s penchant for stalking and pouncing?
 
Being an integral part of every cat’s nature, all of them stalk and pounce – kittens, young cats, adult cats and senior cats. By encouraging this behavior in your own kitty through interactive indoor play, you’ll not only be adding many moments of merriment to your daily playtime routine, you’ll be actively enriching her environment.
 
Unlike domesticated cats who depend on their owners for food, their ancestors were wild, living in the wild, and survived solely by using their innate stalking skills, making them superbly successful hunters. Born with those same keen senses, athletic flexibility and silence and stealth in their movements, today’s kittens ideally learn the nuances of stalking and pouncing from their mothers.
 
If you’ve ever observed a litter of kittens, their vigorous playtime activities will always include wrestling, stalking and pouncing which provide them with much-needed exercise. As for adults in a multi-cat household, added to the wrestling, stalking and pouncing, are chasing and ambushing – all in the name of feline fun and frolics.
 
The key to successful and paws-itive play is, first and foremost, reciprocity. Example: If a kitten or young cat in a multi-cat home is persistently stalking and pouncing on an older one who seems anything but pleased, it’s time for you to intervene and redirect the stalking cat’s attention towards alternate forms of amusement. Increase both your affection and the amount of time that you interact with her. Engage her in longer one-on-one play sessions that elicit and satisfy the stalking and pouncing side of her nature by using a feather toy, a mouse toy on a wand or a laser pointer.
 
If you have only one cat, encourage her stalking and pouncing behavior by throwing one of her favorite toys away from her but not out of her sight, thereby making the toy appear to move and act like prey. Keep your movements small as opposed to wide and sweeping to pique her interest particularly at the start. In addition to toy tossing, create an environment that’s conducive to hunting by putting out some boxes for her to hide behind and/or a cat tunnel for her to run through.
 
Not only are these regular play sessions the purr-fect opportunity to strengthen the bond between you, it provides your cat with the stimulation and exercise that her body and mind crave. If her urge to stalk and pounce isn’t satisfied, she can, all too easily, become bored, frustrated, depressed and/or lethargic. Worse still, a bored, frustrated cat may even use her claws on you – from your arms to your feet – in an effort to fulfill her innate desire to hunt prey.
 
Finally, if you have a kitten, you may find your steps “dogged” by a playful stalking and pouncing little puss who’s simply following her instinct and doesn’t yet know any better. To mold your enthusiastic but errant kitten into a well-behaved adult, ensure that you patiently provide her with the correct behavioral guidance, one gentle – and amply rewarded -- paw step at a time.

by Nomi Berger
 
The problem of cat overpopulation is a global one and requires a solution on a global scale. But like every journey that begins with a single step, this particular journey must begin with every cat owner in every community, town and city in the country. Those conscientious owners who act responsibly by spaying and neutering their cherished family pets.
 
Spaying (ovariohysterectomy) is the surgical removal of a female cat's ovaries and uterus, while neutering (castration) is the removal of a male cat's testicles. To minimize discomfort and pain, both procedures are performed under general anesthesia. Most cats are back to their “normal” selves within a few days, the surgery site usually heals within two weeks, and any skin stitches removed by your vet at a follow up appointment.
 
Did you know that in seven years, an unspayed female and unneutered male cat (and their offspring, if none are spayed or neutered) can result in the births of a staggering 781,250 kittens?
 
And the inevitable outcome? Hundreds of thousands of cats being euthanized each year through no fault of their own. Why? Because they are the tragic, but avoidable, results of over breeding and overpopulation. Why? Because there are too few shelters to house them and too few homes to either foster or adopt them. Why? Because there are still too many cat owners unwilling to spay and neuter their family pets.
 
Both intact male and female cats may try to escape their homes in order to roam outside. Neutering your male will eliminate roaming, urine spraying, and fighting with neighborhood cats. Spaying your female will eliminate the estrus or “heat" behavior of yowling that attracts and invites mounting by roaming males.
 
Despite some owners’ fears, spaying and neutering will not alter their cat's basic personality – except many males will be less aggressive and more docile. Their playfulness, general activity levels, excitement, and vocalization will remain the same. Although neutered males and spayed females may gain weight due to decreased roaming and other sexual behavior outdoors, keeping them active indoors and managing their weight through diet will keep this potential problem under control.
 
Spaying and neutering cats before the age of six months is growing in popularity and the benefits to their health and well being are well documented. Spayed females are less likely to develop breast cancer and won’t be at risk for either ovarian or uterine cancer. Neutered males won’t develop testicular cancer, and without the need to roam, their risk of being injured or infected by other cats is drastically reduced. And males neutered prior to puberty (six months) won’t develop the large head and thick skin of intact males. Early spaying and neutering may also prevent problem behaviors before they occur and may either eliminate or reduce certain behaviors in older cats.
 
Imagine if every conscientious cat owner in every community, town and city in the country took responsibility for spaying and neutering their family pets. Imagine what we, as part of the global community, could accomplish then.

by Nomi Berger
 
For far too long, colonies of feral cats have been a blot on the landscape of far too many communities.
 
But there’s a solution that benefits both these communities and the colonies that live in them. It’s called Trap-Neuter-Return or TNR.
 
Endorsed by such august groups as Alley Cat Allies, the ASPCA, the American Humane Association, and the Humane Society of the United States, TNR is considered to be the most humane, effective and financially sustainable method of controlling the growth of free roaming cats, estimated to be in the tens of millions throughout the country.
 
TNR entails humanely trapping all of the feral cats in a specific colony, having them spayed, neutered, and medically treated if needed, then returning them to their original locations, where their community “caretakers” can continue to provide them with regular food, water and shelter. If these locations are no longer feasible, appropriate or safe, the colonies can, hopefully, be relocated to farmyard homes.
 
Kittens still young enough to be socialized and friendly adults may find placement with local rescue organizations, placed in foster homes for continued socialization and training, spay/neutered, micro chipped and brought up to date on all vaccines. Then they are adopted out to loving homes as well adjusted pets and companions.
 
There are many advantages to Trap-Neuter-Return. The most significant one is that, when practiced on a large scale, it greatly decreases the number of kittens and cats flooding the thousands of shelters countrywide. This, in turn, results in lower euthanasia rates and higher adoption rates for those kittens and cats already there.
 
On a community level, TNR swiftly stabilizes the size of each returned colony by eliminating new litters. In urban areas, in particular, the returned cats continue their natural control of the rodent population. The “nuisance” behaviors associated with feral cats -- the yowling and fighting that come with mating and the odor of intact males spraying to mark their territory -- are dramatically reduced. And finally, the returned colony now guards its territory, preventing intact cats from moving in and starting the cycle of overpopulation and problem behaviors all over again.  
 
To date, TNR is not just the best method of managing feral cat populations, it is the only one that works.

by Nomi Berger
 
The problem of pet overpopulation is a global one and requires a solution on a global scale. But like every journey that begins with a single step, this particular journey must begin with every dog and cat owner. Those who do their part and act responsibly by spaying and neutering their family pets.
 
Spaying (ovariohysterectomy) is the surgical removal of a female dog or cat's ovaries and uterus, while neutering (castration) is the removal of a male dog or cat's testicles. To minimize discomfort and pain, both procedures are performed under general anesthesia. Most animals are back to their “normal” selves within a few days, the surgery site usually heals within two weeks, and any skin stitches removed by one’s vet at a follow up appointment.
 
According to SPAY USA, an unspayed female dog, her unneutered mate and their offspring (if none are spayed or neutered) result in the births of a staggering 12,288 puppies in just 5 years. An unspayed female and unneutered male cat and their offspring (if none are spayed or neutered) can result in the births of a mind boggling 781,250 kittens in 7 years.
 
The inevitable outcome?  Millions of dogs and cats euthanized through no fault of their own. Why? Because they are the tragic but avoidable result of over breeding and overpopulation. Why? Because there are too few shelters to house them, too few rescues to save them, and too few homes to either foster or adopt them. Why? Because there are still too many owners unwilling to spay and neuter their pets.
 
Spaying and neutering dogs by the age of 6 months is growing in popularity, and the benefits to their health and well being are well documented.  Spayed females are 16 times less likely to develop mammary cancer than those left intact. Early spaying is also their best protection against infections like pyometritis, and ovarian and uterine cancers. Early neutering of males protects them against testicular cancer, and helps curb aggression and other undesirable behaviors.
 
Both intact male and female cats may try to escape their homes to roam outside. Neutering a male eliminates roaming, urine spraying, and fighting with other cats. Spaying a female eliminates the estrus or “heat" behavior of yowling that attracts and invites mounting by roaming males.
 
Spayed female cats are less likely to develop breast cancer and won’t be at risk for either ovarian or uterine cancer. Neutered males won’t develop testicular cancer, and without the need to roam, their risk of being injured or infected by other cats is drastically reduced. And males neutered prior to puberty (six months) won’t develop the large head and thick skin of intact males.
 
For years, reputable rescue organizations have been spaying and neutering the animals in their care before putting them up for adoption. Now, spay/neuter clinics have been opening across the country, mobile spay/neuter clinics are reaching those unable to reach them, and many rescues have received grants enabling them to offer their own spay/neuter programs to low income households.
 
Imagine if every conscientious dog and cat owner in every community, town and city in the country took responsibility for spaying and neutering their family pets. Imagine what we, as part of the global community, could accomplish then.

by Nomi Berger
 
All too common in cats, arthritis (also called degenerative joint disease or osteoarthritis) is a chronic, painful and progressive condition that involves their joints, particularly as they age.
 
Normally, the cartilage that lines and cushions a cat’s joints enables the bones to slide past each other smoothly and easily. But when a cat has arthritis, those smooth surfaces are worn down, making the bones grind against each other like sandpaper, leading to swelling, inflammation and pain.
 
The most visible symptoms of cats with arthritis include: limping, stiffness in their legs particularly after resting or sleeping, irritability, less time spent grooming, hesitance or reluctance to jump up or down, difficulty using their litter box, difficulty going up and down stairs, a reduced level of activity, reduced height when jumping, and hiding or sleeping more than usual.
 
Some of the most common factors that increase a cat’s risk of arthritis are: wear and tear (her joints may weaken as she ages); abnormalities (abnormal hip development can affect the cartilage around her joints): injury (a joint fracture or joint injury may cause arthritis) and genetics (some breeds, especially Maine Coons, Persians, Scottish Folds and Siamese have an increased risk of arthritis due to the abnormal development of their cartilage or hips).
 
While there’s no cure for arthritis, you, as a conscientious cat owner, can take steps to keep your precious pet as comfortable as paws-ible. If she’s suddenly slowing down or showing signs of pain whenever she moves, bring her to your vet right away.
 
Your vet will review her medical history and perform a thorough physical examination, looking for: visible joint deformity, obvious joint pain, decreased range of motion, grating (a scraping sound) when she moves her joints, fluid in the joints and unstable joints. To confirm a suspected diagnosis of arthritis, your vet will then x-ray your cat, focusing on the insides of her body in general and on her bones in particular.
 
If your kitty does indeed have arthritis, the following are the various treatment options available:
 
Non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (NSAIDs). Your vet will determine the duration and type of treatment your cat receives.
Pain management medication. When NSAIDs aren’t appropriate or sufficient enough, your vet may add painkilling drugs to to the treatment plan.
Disease-modifying osteoarthritis drugs (DMOADs). One of the DMOADs commonly used is an injectable medication containing the active ingredient polysulfated glycosaminoglycan or PSGAG (Adequan® and Cartrophen®).
Acupuncture. An old healing practice in Chinese medicine, specially designed needles are placed at specific points in your cat’s body to help relieve her pain.
Cold laser therapy or photobiomodulation (PBMT). Non-invasive and shown to ease pain and decrease inflammation, this treatment involves your vet or vet tech moving a small device that emits therapeutic light waves across your cat’s body on top of her fur.
 
At home, it’s essential that you create a comfortable environment for your arthritic kitty by:
Giving her a soft, warm bed that’s easy for her to get into and out of.
Purchasing a litter box with one low side for easier access.
Providing her with a ramp up to her favorite place to rest and relax – whether it’s a window seat, the couch or your bed.
Keeping everything she needs and uses -- her bed, litter box, food and water bowls -- on one floor if you live in a house with several floors.
Using soft brushes when you groom her.
Ensuring she maintains a healthy weight in order to put less stress on her joints
 
And remember: since cats are famous for hiding their pain, pay close attention to the subtle signs that something’s amiss. The sooner arthritis is caught and treated, the better.

by Nomi Berger
 
A common illness in cats, it’s similar to a cold but can be far more serious. Caused by either viruses or bacteria, it targets the upper airway -- the throat, nose and sinuses – rather than the lungs.
 
Although symptoms may differ depending on the cause and location of the infection, some of the most common ones include: sneezing, runny nose, cough, hoarseness, congestion, fever, drooling, gagging, clear to colored nasal and eye discharge, decreased appetite, oral and nasal ulcers, squinting or rubbing eyes, depression and lethargy.
 
Between 80 and 90 percent of upper respiratory infections are viral and the rest are usually caused by bacteria. Found in the tears, nasal secretions and saliva of infected cats, these viruses spread rapidly through direct contact such as touching and grooming or when ailing cats cough and sneeze on one another. The viruses can also live on the surfaces cats share -- food and water bowls and litter boxes -- while humans can spread the virus from cat to cat when their hands and/or clothing are contaminated.
 
Occurring most frequently in cats living in crowded conditions like shelters and breeding facilities, upper respiratory infections can just as easily affect cats living in multi-cat households. Other factors putting them at risk include:
· Age: Kittens and elderly cats are more likely than adult cats to become infected.
· Vaccination status: Annual vaccines can prevent them from getting sick or ensure that their infection is milder.
· Physical condition: Cats with feline leukemia (FeLV) or feline immunodeficiency virus (FIV) are more likely to get infections, while other illnesses or medications that suppress the immune system can also make cats more susceptible.
· Stress: This can not only make cats likelier to become infected in the first place but be re-infected when they’re older.
· Breed: Persians and other flat-faced breeds are more prone to infection because of their facial structure.
· Being outside: Outdoor cats and those who live both indoors and out are more likely to come in contact with infected cats.
 
If you suspect that your kitty has an upper respiratory infection, take her to the vet immediately. Not only can vets often tell what the problem is by looking at her and inquiring about her symptoms, they may also recommend certain tests such as:
· Blood tests. Combined with other lab work, these tests can rule out other causes for your cat’s symptoms – from dehydration to a possible electrolyte imbalance.
· Eye and/or mouth swabs. Such swabs enable your vet to grow a culture to determine which bacteria or virus is causing her infection.
· X-rays. If your cat suffers from recurring infections, a chest x-ray is the most accurate way to find out why. It can also help diagnose a possible fungal infection.
 
Once a clear diagnosis is made, the vet will decide on the most effective treatment for your cat. This may include medications, rest, isolation, IV fluids and nutritional support. And since cats often get a bacterial and a viral infection at the same time, should yours fall into this category, she may require antibiotics.
 
While your cat recovers in the familiar warmth and safety of her own home, consider these additional ways to help her feel better:
· Provide her with a comfortable and private place to rest.
· Encourage her to eat. Since cats with an upper respiratory infection lose some of their sense of smell, tempt her with the highest quality treats and food possible – ones with the fishiest odors.
· Gently clean any discharge from her eyes and nose.
· If her breathing is an issue, your vet may suggest placing her in the bathroom with a steamy shower running.
· But of utmost importance, use her prescribed medications precisely as directed.
 
Should your cat’s upper respiratory infection go untreated, it can often turn into pneumonia or have other serious complications such as chronic breathing problems and blindness.
 
To help prevent these infections in the first place:
· Keep your cat indoors to lower her risk of being exposed to infected animals.
· Ensure that any infected cat in a multi-cat household is properly isolated from your other cats.
· Minimize her stress level.
· Keep her up-to-date on vaccines as recommended by your vet, and although a vaccine for an upper respiratory infection may not prevent it, it can make one less severe.
· Since a cat’s best defense is a healthy immune system, regular vet examinations and preventive care can help catch and treat any problems early.
· Wash your hands thoroughly when handling multiple cats and, to err on the side of caution, consider changing your clothes afterwards.

by Nomi Berger
 
With the approach of the holidays, everyone’s thoughts turn naturally to the happy chore of gift giving to those nearest and dearest to them. While some people opt for the tried and true, hoping another gift certificate isn’t too impersonal or another sweater or tie, scarf, box of chocolates or bottle of perfume isn’t too predictable, they’re much safer choices than those being considered by others: a kitten!
 
The gift of a kitten is not the same as the gift of a small, stuffed plushy toy. More often than not, wrapping a red and green ribbon with a matching bow around the neck of a living, breathing animal signals only one thing: trouble. Animals are not toys and should never be anyone’s holiday surprise. Unlike other holiday purchases, there are no refunds or exchanges on kittens, only serious, possibly dire consequences. Although the idea of a kitten as a present may seem thoughtful, it is, in reality, thoughtless. 
 
Why? Because the gift of a kitten means someone else must accept responsibility for that kitten. (Grandparents, parents and “empty nesters” come quickly to mind). Because the gift of a kitten means a potential commitment of 10 to 15 years or more on the part of these recipients. What you consider an act of generosity may, unfortunately, be seen instead as an imposition. If they want a kitten, it’s up to them to make that choice.
 
The same holds true when considering a kitten for your own family. And it must be a carefully considered choice. An informed decision made by everyone involved. Does anyone suffer from allergies, particularly to cats? Does everyone even want a kitten? Does everyone understand what it means to share in the many responsibilities of raising a kitten? Because adding a kitten to your family not only involves time and money, it means providing that same innocent kitten with a loving and stable home – forever.
 
Children should never be presented with a kitten at any time of the year. Typically, they will be charmed by this small, furry plaything that leaps and jumps, purrs, meows and nips, runs here, there and everywhere, and gets into all manner of appealing and amusing kitten mischief. Until the novelty wears off and reality sets in. The reality of actually caring for their cute little bundle of undirected energy. Kittens are not so cute when they have to be patiently taught proper kitten manners – not to bite fingers, pull hair or scratch skin, not to scratch furniture and not to jump up on counters.
 
Kittens must be trained how to properly and politely use a litter box, respond to their name when called, and eat and drink out of their designated bowls. Kittens must be kept creatively occupied to both burn off their exuberant energy and strengthen the bond between them and their family. Kittens must be provided with the means to keep themselves constructively occupied when left on their own – from cat trees and cat towers to cat tunnels and puzzle toys.
 
Long before that kitten matures into a cat, you, as the well-intentioned gift giver, will, in all likelihood, be that same kitten’s full-time caregiver. And, unfortunately, some of you won’t be prepared for this eventuality. If the result isn’t a poorly trained, ill-mannered and destructive pet, the alternative is even worse. Another well-intentioned but misguided “gift” either dropped off at a pound or surrendered to a shelter, potentially to be euthanized.  
 
In lieu of a kitten, consider a holiday “gift” that keeps on giving in the most paws-itive sense of the word by supporting an animal organization like ours! Make a one-time tax-deductible donation to us in the name of your grandparents, parents or “empty nesters.” Make a monthly donation to us in your name and/or the names of your children.
 
In short, to ensure that your own holidays are both happy and harmonious, ensure that your gift list never includes pets.