by Nomi Berger
 
Has your kitty gone from “pleasingly plump” to frighteningly fat? And if so, why?
 
Does the term “polyphagia” sound familiar? If not, it’s a medical condition that causes a cat to increase her food intake to the extent that she seems ravenous most of or all of the time. Since polyphagia can be either behavioral or physical in nature, it’s vital to determine which of the two is affecting your particular kitty.
 
The simplest way is starting at home – to see whether you’re simply over-feeding her.
 
Since most healthy adult cats require only one or two meals a day, use measuring scoops (follow the serving size recommended on the tin or packaging) to refill her bowl and feed her on a fixed schedule – despite her many initial meows of protest.
 
Although she may be eating a great deal, she may not be getting enough essential nutrients. If this is the case, change to a higher quality cat food, one that provides her with the vitamins and minerals she needs to stay healthy – and lean.
 
Use a slow feeding bowl – their bumps make it more difficult for kitty to reach her food, forcing her to eat more slowly. And if your cat is one who eats when she’s bored, a slow feeding bowl will provide her with the added benefit of some much-needed stimulation.
 
Turn mealtime into a game by purchasing one of a wide variety of feeding toys that automatically dispenses food as your cat plays with it. Not only does this limit the amount of food she eats but it also encourages her natural prey drive and affords her the chance at some additional exercise.
 
If your cat is either lonely or stressed (some cats will habitually beg for food as a means of attracting their owners’ attention), alleviate these feelings by devoting at least 15 to 20 minutes a day to actively play, play, playing with her.
 
If, on the other hand, the reason behind her overeating is medical, among the various possible culprits are diabetes mellitus, hyperthyroidism, certain medications, and impaired digestion and absorption of nutrients. But to make the proper determination, a visit to your vet is essential.
 
As with any other suspected condition, the first step will be a thorough physical examination of your cat augmented by extensive blood and urine tests. A blood count enables your vet to evaluate her thyroid levels, examine her blood for the presence of infectious agents, and to see if she’s suffering from anemia or any inflammation in her blood vessels. Abnormally low blood sugar (hypoglycemia) may also be found – possibly the result of insulin-producing tumors that interfere with the proper functioning of her pancreas. A complete urinalysis will show if there’s an infection in her urinary tract, an infection of the organs involved in waste elimination or if sugar is present in her urine -- commonly found in cats with diabetes.
 
Should these tests prove inconclusive, however, your vet may suggest x-rays of her thorax and abdomen and, possibly, an endoscopy. This procedure involves inserting a tube through your kitty’s mouth and into the hollow cavity of her stomach to take tissue samples from her stomach and small intestine.
 
Once the cause of her condition has been diagnosed, your vet will provide you with an at-home treatment plan to follow going forward. Examples: Diabetes mellitus can usually be managed by a combination of insulin and a special diet. Gastrointestinal conditions such as exocrine pancreatic insufficiency may respond to dietary changes and oral medications. Hyperthyroidism can be treated with medication, radioactive iodine therapy, diet, or surgery to remove the thyroid gland, while impaired digestion or absorption caused by gastrointestinal disease may be controlled through medications and dietary changes.
 
But if kitty’s polyphagia doesn’t improve or worsens, schedule an appointment with your vet to have her re-evaluated.

by Nomi Berger
 
Have you thought of adding some new and different resolutions to your traditional New Year’s list?
 
Have you ever thought about getting involved in the world of cat rescue, but didn’t quite know how?
 
Here then, are twelve different ways – one for each month – for you to resolve to make a difference in the lives of rescue kittens and cats this year. Even if you choose only one, that choice will make all the difference in the world to them.
 
1. Contact a local cat rescue and ask to volunteer for them. Since volunteers form the backbone of every nonprofit organization, no group can function successfully without them, and there are many ways (it varies from rescue to rescue) to help out.
 
2. Refer ONE feline-loving friend to the same rescue to volunteer alongside you.
 
3. Click onto their web site and make a monetary contribution to them online either as a onetime payment or as recurring monthly payments.
 
4. Purchase and donate items to them from the “wish lists” featured on their site such as Amazon and Chewy.
 
5. Follow their Face Book page, “like” them, “comment” and “share” their postings on a daily basis, and vote for them in every online competition.
 
6. Respond with donations to as many pleas for funds as possible – from one kitty’s medical needs to GoFundMe appeals.
 
7. Instead of accepting birthday gifts this year, ask your family and friends to make contributions to the rescue in your name.
 
8. Host a small fundraiser (bake sales, garage sales and yard sales are among the most popular) and donate the proceeds to them. You will receive not only their gratitude, but a tax receipt as well.
 
9. Sign petitions calling on your city to ban the sale of cats in all pet stores unless they’re from animal shelters, rescue groups or people surrendering them for free.
 
10. Sponsor a kitty.
 
11. Foster an available cat. Learn precisely what’s required of you, then welcome one very needy and deserving animal into your home temporarily, until he or she can be placed in a permanent home.
 
12. Adopt a rescue cat and save two lives – the life of the one you’re adopting, and the life of the one immediately taking his or her place.
 
As for next year? Either continue working your way down this list, or resolve to draw up a list of you own.

by Nomi Berger
 
It’s a question posed by puzzled cat parents everywhere: Do our feline friends truly HATE water?
 
According to most animal behaviorists and scientists, the answer is more complicated than a simple “yes” or “no.” Why? Because the relationship between cats and water is, in itself, complicated -- for several reasons.
 
From an evolutionary standpoint, today’s domestic cats are descended from Arabian wild cats who inhabited areas where the climate was arid with few if any large bodies of water, thereby negating the necessity to learn how to swim in order to survive. Succinctly put, there’s virtually nothing in the ancestral lineage of domesticated cats that would have ever prepared them for being bathed – in a tub or even a sink. 
 
Because they still retain many of the same instincts as their ancestors, today’s cats are always alert to potential threats and must be fit enough to either fight or flee should the need arise. But if their fur is wet (read “drenched” or “soaked”), it’s akin to being weighed down by a cold, heavy blanket due to the fact that their coats dry very slowly. Not only is this distinctly uncomfortable, it impedes their ability to move, compromises their agility, and leaves them vulnerable to attack.
 
And since cats typically spend 30 to 50 percent of each day meticulously grooming themselves, licking their fur to remove skin oils and fluffing their coats, they scarcely need bathing. In fact, their sole exposure to water seldom extends beyond their water bowls. It’s purr-fectly understandable, then, that their reaction to anything else would be one of fear. Especially if their earliest exposure to water was getting caught in the rain, being forced into a flea bath or being disciplined with a spray bottle or squirt gun to dissuade them from jumping onto or scratching furniture and/or kitchen counters.
 
Cats are gifted with a highly developed sense of smell and are thus able to detect the chemicals in tap water – an extremely unpleasant experience, at least for them. They also have numerous scent glands in their bodies that produce pheromones used for marking and communicating with other cats, and water – from tap water to scented bathwater -- interferes with these abilities. 
 
Why then, do so many cats splash about in their water bowls and/or stare in such rapt fascination at the water streaming from a sink faucet or filling up a bathtub? Because it has very little to do with the water itself and everything to do with the way it looks, sounds and moves. To them, the shimmering, flickering light patterns dancing about so seductively means only one thing: potential prey and, thus, a source of food – an instinct as old as the species itself.
 
And yet, surprisingly, there are some cats who not only enjoy water but LOVE swimming in it! Among them are the Abyssinian, American Bobtail, Bengal, Japanese Bobtail, Maine Coon, Manx, Norwegian Forest Cat, Savannah, Turkish Angora and Turkish Van.
 
If you have a young kitten, it’s always possible to help her feel more comfortable around water. Since her most impressionable time of life is between three and 16 weeks, expose her slowly to water using treats or toys as positive reinforcement. Should you have an older cat who’s either sick or has arthritis and can’t groom herself properly, bathing her may become a necessity. Even she can be conditioned to enjoy – or at least, tolerate – the water, although the process will, understandably, be slower and take longer.

by Nomi Berger
 
Although many owners believe that an extremely dry or wet cat nose is indicative of illness, nothing could be further from the truth.
 
Not only are some cats’ noses naturally drier than others, but most cats’ nose temperatures and moisture levels vary throughout the day. The best way, then, to determine whether or not there’s reason for worry is to know what’s normal for your own cherished cat companion.
 
Curious as to why a cat’s nose is wet in the first place? The rhinarium (the skin around her nostril openings) and the sweat glands on it create moisture, while her lower tear ducts create drainage – both of which contribute to her having a wet nose. Just as we sweat in order to regulate our body temperature, cats use their noses’ moisture to both remain cool and to regulate their own body temperature. And since cats are famous for being fastidious self-groomers, their continuous licking automatically adds a layer of moisture to their noses, keeping them wet.
 
Just as common as a wet nose is a dry one, and it’s seldom a cause for concern. If a cat spends a good deal of her time either sitting or lying in direct sunlight, her nose may be dry – similar to the drying effects that sunbathing has on our skin. The same holds true for a cat who spends too much of her time near a fireplace or a heating vent. The level of humidity in the air – particularly during the winter months – also plays a part in her nose’s level of moisture.
 
However, when a cat has an overly dry nose or one whose skin is cracked or flaking, the cause is dehydration, resulting from either decreased water intake or increased fluid loss. If you think your kitty is suffering from dehydration, bring her to the vet. Other signs of dehydration include: sunken eyes, dry mouth, elevated heart rate, skin elasticity, lethargy, depression, loss of appetite and panting.
 
Unlike a wet nose, a runny nose merits a visit to the vet in order to rule out – or rule in – such illnesses as upper respiratory infections (URIs). A number of viral and bacterial infections can cause URIs, including feline herpesvirus and feline chlamydia bacteria. Common symptoms of URIs are red, watery eyes, an excessively runny nose, a bubbly and colored nasal discharge, and sniffling and sneezing.
 
On the other hand, a runny nose could just as easily be due to an allergy. After a thorough examination of your cat, an in-depth discussion of her symptoms and living conditions, your vet may recommend changes in her food and/or litter as well as in her environment.
 
In short, a healthy cat’s nose tends to switch back and forth between moist and dry throughout the day. The more you familiarize yourself with your own feline’s daily pattern, the more easily you’ll recognize when something’s amiss, requiring a visit to the vet.

by Nomi Berger
 
If your kitty’s breath seems less than fresh lately, there are various reasons behind it, the most common being periodontal disease.
 
An inflammation of the tissues surrounding your cat’s teeth, it’s caused by the buildup of plaque and tartar, rife with large amounts of bacteria that release malodorous sulfur compounds. Treating this condition requires professional removal of the plaque and tartar under anesthesia in a vet’s office. Maintaining her newly cleaned teeth requires regular and conscientious dental care at home and twice yearly dental exams from then on.
 
Abscessed tooth roots are also common. The infection produces pus that drains around the affected tooth and into your cat’s mouth, and as the abscess grows, the side of her face closest to the site will start to swell. Sometimes the infection will even break through her skin and the pus will leak onto her fur. An abscess must be lanced and drained by a vet, and more often than not, the affected tooth extracted, and your cat placed on antibiotics for several days.
 
Respiratory viruses are common as well. One of them, the calicivirus, often causes ulcers to appear on a cat’s tongue. While they have a foul smell, most cats recover swiftly from these infections, and once the ulcers heal, the smell disappears.
 
The most worrisome cause of feline halitosis, however, is an oral tumor, with squamous cell carcinoma being the most common. As the tumor grows, parts of it may become infected and start to decay, resulting in an unpleasant odor. Most cats with oral tumors have a poor prognosis. Why? Because by the time they start exhibiting signs of a problem inside their mouths, the tumor has already infiltrated too extensively, making treatment impossible.
 
Bad breath can result from non-oral conditions as well.
 
As cats age, their kidneys begin to weaken, impairing their ability to filter toxins from their bloodstream. The further this condition progresses, the higher the level of toxins, leading them to develop uremia (the term literally means urine in the blood). Cats suffering from uremia usually have extremely foul or “rotting” breath and often develop ulcers on the sides of their tongues that make their already bad breath even worse.
 
Diabetes can also negatively impact a cat’s breath. While some diabetic cats have that telltale sweet, fruity smell to their breath, the more obvious signs that something’s amiss are increased thirst, increased urination, and noticeable weight loss despite an increased appetite.
 
Given the various medical conditions that can cause halitosis, always err on the side of caution and have your cat examined by your vet if she fails the “smell test.” To determine its underlying cause if one isn’t patently obvious, the vet will take kitty’s complete health history, perform a physical exam and, more often than not, order blood tests and a urinalysis, and any other diagnostic tests deemed necessary.
 
As with the majority of medical issues, though, the best way to “treat” a problem is to prevent it in the first place. And since periodontal disease is the most common cause of feline halitosis, your primary line of defence is a dedicated dental home care routine. This includes brushing your cat’s teeth regularly using a feline-specific toothpaste, starting slowly and rewarding her with positive reinforcement. If this proves too difficult, wiping the outside of her teeth and gums with a Q-tip twice a day is one of the most effective ways of removing and slowing the accumulation of plaque. Last, but certainly not least, feed her a diet that’s especially designed to reduce plaque and tartar buildup, and give her dental treats – using only those products recommended by the Veterinary Oral Health Council.

by Nomi Berger
 
While common in people and dogs, glaucoma is rare in cats, but can ultimately lead to blindness. However, an early diagnosis coupled with the proper treatment affords concerned owners a fighting chance at saving their favorite feline friends’ purr-ecious sight.
 
What then, IS glaucoma?
 
Glaucoma is a painful disorder that occurs as a result of an abnormal increase in eye pressure (IOP or intraocular pressure). Although it can be caused by genetic factors, it’s more commonly linked to such underlying conditions as inflammation, tumors, trauma or changes in the lens that can lead to a buildup of fluid inside the eye.
 
Under normal conditions, clear fluid (aqueous humor) is produced within your cat’s eye. This fluid not only helps the eye maintain its shape, but it also delivers nutrients and removes metabolites during the circulation process.
 
In healthy eyes, the amount of fluid that’s produced is balanced by an equal amount of fluid exiting the eyes. But should there be an increase in the amount of fluid that’s being produced or if something obstructs its ability to drain normally, the liquid will build up and result in increased eye pressure.
 
This increase in pressure can damage the retina (the lining at the back of the eye that detects light) as well as the optic nerve, which carries impulses to the brain. If the pressure remains high for between 24 and 72 hours, it can cause permanent blindness in your cat.
 
Glaucoma may affect one or both eyes, and the symptoms can vary, depending on the amount of pressure, the underlying cause and how long the pressure has been elevated. Signs that your cat has glaucoma include:
Increased blinking
Dilated pupil(s)
Enlargement or bulging of the affected eye(s)
A clear to cloudy discharge from one or both eyes
Redness and swelling of the vessels in the sclera (the white portion of the eye)
Cloudiness of the cornea (the clear outer layer of the eye)
Bumping into objects
Depression
Loss of appetite
 
In order to diagnose glaucoma, your vet will perform a thorough examination of your cat’s eyes and use a veterinary tonometer (a small, thin instrument resembling a thermometer) to measure the pressure inside her eyes. While elevated pressure is a sign that glaucoma is present, more sophisticated testing can be done – your vet will usually refer you to a veterinary ophthalmologist for this -- to determine the cause behind the change in pressure and prescribe the appropriate course of action to treat it. The goal: to reduce the pressure, control the pain and preserve your cat’s sight.
 
A veterinary opthalmologist may order, among other things: x-rays and/or an ultrasound of her eye(s) to identify any abnormalities or tumors; tests to evaluate her sugar levels and the function of her kidneys, liver and pancreas; a complete blood count, urinalysis, thyroid test and tests for FeLV and FIV.
 
Once glaucoma has been diagnosed and medications begun, follow-up examinations are essential to ensure that your cat’s responding adequately to the treatment or, if not, to adjust her medications.
 
As for the prognosis? It depends on the underlying cause of her glaucoma. In the long run, ongoing medical treatment will be needed to keep the disease under control. With medical treatment alone, however, most cats will eventually lose the vision in their affected eye. If her glaucoma was caused by a detached lens and the lens is surgically removed, then the prognosis is good. If it was the result of uveitis (a form of inflammation affecting the uvea or the middle layer of tissue in the eye wall), and the inflammation is controlled, then the prognosis is good, provided the proper treatment is maintained indefinitely.
 
In cases that don’t respond to medical treatment or if she’s gone blind in the affected eye, removal of that eye may be recommended to relieve her pain and discomfort. But take heart. Cats who lose their sight usually adapt admirably to their situation and continue to lead happy, healthy and loving lives.

by Nomi Berger
 
Cardiomyopathy, simply put, refers to a “disease of the heart muscle,” specifically the myocardium.
 
It’s a condition caused by a structural abnormality in one or more of the four chambers of the heart, most commonly the left ventricle. The muscle involved becomes too thick, either scars and stiffens or weakens, thereby impairing the heart’s ability to pump blood.
 
Feline cardiomyopathy is considered a primary disease and consists of three types: hypertrophic, restrictive and dilated. It mainly affects adult cats, and while all cats are susceptible to the disease, some breeds are genetically predisposed to it.
 
Hypertrophic cardiomyopathy (HCM), the most prevalent type, is characterized by a thickening of the left ventricle which prevents the heart from relaxing normally when it fills with blood. This can, over time, lead to elevated pressures within the heart, ultimately resulting in congestive heart failure (fluid accumulation). Some cats may also have a significant heart murmur while others may have none. To confirm a diagnosis of HCM requires an echocardiogram (ultrasound of the heart) that demonstrates a thickened left ventricle with no identifiable underlying cause for the changes detected.
 
Restrictive cardiomyopathy (RCM) results from an excessive buildup of scar tissue (fibrosis) on the inner lining of the ventricle. This prevents the ventricle from properly relaxing, filling and emptying with each beat of the heart, and, as with HCM, requires an echocardiogram to confirm it.
 
Dilated cardiomyopathy (DCM), seldom seen today, was linked historically to a dietary taurine deficiency -- since corrected by most manufacturers of cat food. This condition is characterized by a poorly contracting, dilated left ventricle, and is often accompanied by enlarged atria, generally resulting in congestive heart failure.
 
While cats with feline cardiomyopathy can remain asymptomatic for years, many will, at some point, start exhibiting clinical signs associated with their disease. The most common one is congestive heart failure, and the most common location for this buildup of fluid is in their lungs (pulmonary edema) or around their lungs (pleural effusion). This makes breathing extremely difficult and constitutes a true medical emergency.
 
As for treatment: In cases where an underlying cause of a cat’s cardiomyopathy is found, treatment may result in either an improvement or a reversal of the disease. The most treatable underlying cause is hyperthyroidism where complete resolution is possible if diagnosed and treated early. In cases with no clearly identifiable underlying cause (idiopathic cardiomyopathy) or where the disease persists despite having treated the underlying cause, medication may then be needed, and can include:
 
1. Diuretics: If congestive heart failure is present, diuretics help reduce any fluid accumulating in the chest.
2. Beta-blockers: These reduce the heart rate if it’s excessive.
3. Calcium channel blockers: These help the heart muscle relax thereby allowing the heart to fill more effectively.
4. Aspirin: This may be used to reduce the risk of the formation of blood clots, but since aspirin can be toxic to cats, always follow your vet’s dosing instructions.
5. Angiotensin converting enzyme (ACE) inhibitors: These drugs also help control congestive heart failure.
6. Blood pressure lowering drugs: These treat hypertension.
 
The long-term prognosis for cats with cardiomyopathy depends on its cause, while cats with idiopathic cardiomyopathy can stay stable for several years.

by Nomi Berger

Facts, fun and fanciful, some purr-haps familiar, others new – for the feline fancier in all of you:

1. Genetically, if somewhat surprisingly, a domestic cat is 95.6% tiger!
2. Although humans have 206 bones in our bodies, cats have, on average, 244 in theirs. The number ranges between 230 and 250 depending on the length of their tails and how many toes they have.
3. An adult cat’s brain is approximately 2 inches long, weighs approximately 1 ounce and has nearly twice as many neurons in her cerebral cortex as a dog.
4. Every cat’s nose is unique -- much like a human’s fingerprints.
5. Cats are blessed with an extra organ that enables them to “taste” scents in the air.
6. Cats’ whiskers are the same width as their bodies.
7. A cat’s tongue contains hundreds of backward-facing keratin spines known as filiform papillae that not only assist her in grooming but allow her to lick bones clean of the tastiest, tiniest morsels of meat.
8. Kittens have 26 teeth and adult cats have 30 teeth.
9. A cat’s purr vibrates at a frequency of 25 to 150 hertz (Hz) -- the same frequency at which bones and muscles repair themselves. Since humans have a range of about 20 to 20,000 Hz, we can not only hear the purr but feel its vibrations.
10. Meowing was a behavior that cats developed in order to communicate with us, and they can have as many as 100 individual vocalizations in their “vocabulary.”
11. A cat’s walk resembles that of a camel or a giraffe – with both right feet going first, followed by both left feet.
12. While a running cat can reach a speed of 30 mph, it’s only for short distances.
13. Cats are capable of jumping up to five times their height.
14. A cat’s back is extremely flexible with up to 53 loosely fitting vertebrae compared with a human’s back that has 34.
15. Males are more likely to be left pawed, females are more likely to be right pawed, while some are ambidextrous.
16. Neutered males live 62% longer than intact males and spayed females live 39% longer than intact females.
17. Cats spend between 12 and 16 hours a day sleeping and devote 1/3 of their waking hours to grooming themselves.
18. The act of self-grooming stimulates blood flow to their skin, regulates their body temperature, and helps them relax.
19. Cats are capable of dreaming kitty cat dreams.
20. Your cat sends out signals that you’re her “property” by rubbing her face and body against you, thereby “marking” you with her distinctive scent.
21. If your cat comes toward you with her tail straight and almost vibrating, this signifies that she’s supremely pleased to see you.
22. When your cat shows you her belly, it’s a sign of trust and relaxation and not necessarily an invitation for a belly rub.
23. When your cat shows you her bum, it’s a gesture of friendship. When she kneads you or “makes biscuits”, it signifies happiness. When she drapes her tail over you, over another cat or even a dog, this means friendship as well.
24. Grimalkin is the name of a female cat, especially an older one.
25. A cat lover is called an ailurophile -- from the Greek word ailuros (cat) and phile (lover).

by Nomi Berger

Although your senior cat may now spend more time lounging and less time playing, she still needs activities to keep her both mentally and physically fit. Could YOU be missing her cue that she’s simply waiting for YOU to take the lead? If so, consider the following to help her release her remembered inner kitten.

If your favorite feline recognizes the images of various animals on TV, she may truly enjoy watching videos of birds, squirrels and other wildlife that have been created expressly for cats. Alternatively, place her cat tree close to a window where she can watch the world or set up a bird feeder outside and place her cat tree near the window facing it.

Because she’s less athletic and agile now than when she was young, ensure that the toys you use to keep her active don’t aggravate such common conditions in the aging as arthritis. Among the best “lower-activity toys” are:
• Cardboard boxes: Cut numerous openings into the sides of several cardboard boxes and place half of them right side up and the other half upside down, creating “cubbies” for her to enter and exit with ease.
• Climbing toys: If she doesn’t already have a cat tree, get her an especially sturdy one with several shelves that will allow her to climb up and down safely without having to leap any appreciable distance.
• Fleece pulls and toys: From something as simple as a soft, thick bathrobe pull to a wide assortment of fleece toys, they not only provide your kitty with something to chase and “capture”, they’re too large to be swallowed.
• Food-dispensing toys: Fill one of a variety of round, plastic food puzzles with high-value treats or kibble, and watch her roll it around and around in an effort to get out and eat her tasty “rewards.”
• Paper bags: Select a safe space in your home, open one or two large bags (grocery bags are best) and provide her with an inexpensive and instant hiding place or “cat cave.”

When interacting personally with your kitty using toys with a long ribbon or string, yarn or rubber band attached, remember that such long, tempting “tails” can be all too easily swallowed -- even by a senior – wreaking havoc with her stomach and intestines. Always store those toys safely out of sight as soon as playtime is done.

While catnip toys appeal to a majority of cats, some cats aren’t affected by it at all. If yours is one of them, keep your finicky senior feline on her toes by enticing her with toys filled with silver vine (the most popular), Tatarian honeysuckle or Valerian root instead.

Practice golf balls with the holes and ping pong balls make ideal toys -- both size and weight-wise -- for senior cats. Place several balls in an enclosed, safe space such as a bathtub and let your kitty have her way with them. You can also put a ball into an empty tissue box and allow her to fish around for it with her paws.

In short, while your senior kitty may not play as long or as hard as she did in her youth, it’s essential that you not only interact with her at least once a day but that you provide her with ample opportunities to stay engaged and amused on her own. What more paws-itive way could there be to keep her inner kitten alive and out there for all to see?

Curious as to whether or not YOUR favorite feline can be taught to lie down on cue?

According to pet trainers, it’s, paws down, one of the easiest behaviors a cat can learn. As a matter of fact, the more relaxed YOU are, the more relaxed your kitty will be, thereby affording you the optimum opportunity to positively reinforce this behavior.

Choose a location where your cat’s already comfortable curling up or sprawling out, whether it’s a couch, your bed or her own preferred perch. To make the spot even more appealing, cover it with an especially soft rug or fleecy blanket. Each training session should be brief – from one to five minutes – and to hold her attention and keep her engaged, always offer her ample rewards throughout.

Begin by marking and rewarding her instinctive tendency to lie down. As soon as she starts moving into a resting position, say “down” and mark it either with a word, such as “good”, or with the click of a training clicker, followed promptly by a reward, i.e. a high-value treat. Not only does the marker help your kitty learn what the desired behavior is, the reward teaches her to associate good things with that behavior.

If she seems confused by receiving a reward for a behavior that’s natural to her, don’t be discouraged. The key is repetition and consistency, building on her ability to learn the connection between the desired behavior and the resulting reward. By coupling the word “down” with the action of lying down, you’re teaching her to associate one with the other, followed, of course, by that all-important treat. The more you repeat this sequence, the sooner your kitty will learn that lying down in response to the word “down” is more than worth her while!

Up for a greater challenge? Use a “lure” as a way of teaching your kitty to lie down. Whether it’s a treat held in your closed hand, a tiny ball or a small crinkle toy, hold it in front of and slightly below her when she’s perched higher up on a chair or a cat tree, for example. As she moves to investigate, say “down” and mark it either with a word, such as “good” or with the click of a training clicker, and reward her with a treat whether she only bends slightly or actually lowers her chest to the surface of the cat tree or chair. Repeat the process until she’s fully resting in the desired down position.

Once she’s mastered this, switch from holding the “lure” where she can see it to holding it in your closed palm. This will teach her to follow your hand and not the “lure.” Continue rewarding her with a treat each time she successfully lies down, but remember to give her the treat with your other hand!

Your ultimate goal is to use only the hand signal preceded a second or two earlier by the word “down.” Remember the old axiom: practice makes perfect or, in this case, purr-fect? With ongoing practice – and paw-lenty of patience on your part -- your kitty should soon start anticipating the verbal cue “down” and move into the down position as soon as she hears it.

Whichever training strategy you choose, increase the time your cat remains in the down position by intermittently rewarding her with a treat. Then, at the end of each session, use a release word such as “free” as a signal to her that she is literally being freed from lying down.