by Nomi Berger
 
If you have two or more kitties, do you ever see them grooming each other? Do you find yourself wondering if this is odd or okay?
 
According to veterinarians and behavioral specialists, it’s not only normal for cats to groom each other, it’s a sign of a healthy and affectionate relationship between them. An instinct starting in kittenhood with their mothers, it often continues into adulthood with their chosen kitty companions, indicating that they feel safe and content with one another.
 
Consider these other fascinating feline facts: They’re keeping each other clean. Cats typically spend 30% to 50% of their waking hours grooming themselves! They might even be helping one another out when it entails reaching some of those “hard-to-reach” places.
 
They’re building trust and a closer relationship: However strange it may sound, cats actually “share” scents to build trust. Closely bonded cats will groom each other to mix their scents, strengthening their connection and making them feel especially secure -- much like a hug shared between people.
 
They’re relieving stress: Cats find grooming to be self-soothing. Licking their close feline friend’s fur releases endorphins, the mood-elevating hormone, that in turn reduces their stress level and promotes feelings of relaxation. 
 
They’re establishing a social hierarchy: One recent study posited that domesticated cats who were “higher” in the household’s pecking order groomed “lower ranking” cats more often than the other way around. Simply put, more dominant cats may groom less dominant ones to reinforce the household’s social hierarchy.
 
However, not all cats groom each other. Some cats aren’t, by nature, physically affectionate. Some might demonstrate the depth of their mutual, loving bond by playing together, wrapping their tails around each other and/or sleeping near one another. Other cats might not groom each other because they don’t get along.
 
While mutual grooming seldom needs correcting, some instances require redirection on your part. Examples:
If grooming causes a conflict between them. Sometimes the cat being groomed does NOT appreciate it or, at any given point, the cat doing the grooming can become aggressive. Signs of a paw-tential problem include hissing or attempting to escape. If one or both cats are clearly upset, remove one and place them in another room with the door closed until both cats are calm again. Make certain that they each have access to water and food, toys and perches, and views of the outdoors while they’re separated so that neither one becomes even more stressed. 
If grooming becomes obsessive. Compulsive grooming occurs when one cat focuses solely on a specific spot of the other cat’s body, potentially resulting in such skin and coat issues as irritation and/or hair loss.
 
To redirect these behaviors: Practice positive reinforcement. Positive reinforcement and consistency are essential in both bringing about the desired change in your cat’s behavior and strengthening the bond between you.
Gently distract your cat with a toy or treat. Whether it’s your feline friend’s favorite catnip toy, wand toy or treat-filled Kong, each can be the most entertaining of distractions. 
 
But, as always, when in doubt, discuss the situation with your own, trusted vet.

by Nomi Berger
 
A protein called Fel d 1, found in cat saliva, skin and dander, is responsible for causing allergies in people. Whenever our feline friends groom themselves, this protein spreads onto their fur and into the air. ACHOO!
 
However, the following 13 hairless and low-shedding cat breeds produce less of this protein, making them a better fit for sensitive pet parents. But even with these “hypoallergenic” breeds, brushing them, vacuuming your homes and using one or more air purifiers might still be needed to manage your allergies.
 
1. Balinese
Size: Medium
Lifespan: 10--15 years
Temperament: Affectionate, intelligent and sociable
Producing less Fel d 1 protein than many other breeds, the playful Balinese thrive on interaction and form close bonds with their pet parents, often following them from room to room. Their fine, silky coats rarely mat and require only weekly brushing sessions.
 
2. Bambino
Size: Small
Lifespan: 9–15 years
Temperament: Curious, outgoing and playful
The Bambino is a hairless breed with tiny legs, thanks to their Munchkin ancestors. Despite their small size, Bambinos are active and social, and enjoy climbing and exploring just like larger cats. Because they’re hairless, they need baths to keep their skin clean.
 
3. Bengal
Size: Medium to large
Lifespan: 12–16 years
Temperament: Confident, energetic and intelligent
Created by crossing domestic cats with Asian leopard cats, beautiful Bengals resemble mini-leopards. Because of their curiosity, energy and size, they require a great deal of interactive play and climbing spaces such as extra-large cat trees and cat shelves.
 
4. Burmese
Size: Medium
Lifespan: 10–17 years
Temperament: Friendly, loyal and people-oriented
With fine, glossy coats that don’t shed much, the Burmese are good for those who have mild allergies. Affectionate loyal, and known for forming a very strong attachment to their pet parents, they’re purr-fect lap cats for people who covet companionship.
 
5. Cornish Rex
Size: Small to medium
Lifespan: 12–15 years
Temperament: Active, affectionate and curious
Cornish Rexes’ soft undercoats of downy fur reduce both shedding and dander spread. Extremely energetic and endlessly curious, they enjoy daily playtime with numerous cat toys, climbing onto high perches, and then lapping up as much loving as possible.
 
6. Devon Rex
Size: Small to medium
Lifespan: 10–15 years
Temperament: Affectionate, mischievous and playful
Devon Rexes have soft fur that clings closely to their bodies and sheds very little. Highly intelligent, extremely active and endlessly impish, they love frolicking about as much as being with their pet parents, often curling up on their shoulders to prove it!
 
7. Javanese
Size: Medium
Lifespan: 10–15 years
Temperament: Intelligent, social and “talkative”
Javanese cats sport a single, fine coat without an underlayer, meaning less shedding and fewer airborne allergens. Impressively intelligent and charmingly chatty, they enjoy playing with puzzle toys as much as engaging in cheerful banter with their pet parents.
 
8. Oriental Shorthair
Size: Medium
Lifespan: 10–15 years
Temperament: Affectionate, social and vocal
Slender with big eyes and bat-like ears, Oriental Shorthairs boast a short, smooth coat lying close to their bodies. Supremely social with a distinctive “honking” meow, they thrive in especially energetic homes and become strongly attached to their pet parents.
 
9. Russian Blue
Size: Medium
Lifespan: 10–20 years
Temperament: Gentle, loyal and reserved with strangers
Russian Blues are prized for their plush double coats that shed so little that they seldom need brushing. Blessed with a calm, gentle nature and best suited to quieter homes, their love and loyalty lead them to form enviable lifelong bonds with their pet parents.
 
10. Siamese
Size: Medium
Lifespan: 12–20 years
Temperament: Affectionate, chatty and curious
The distinctive blue-eyed Siamese’s ears, faces, paws and tails are a darker color than the rest of their bodies. Always affectionate, always curious and always talkative, they shed less than the typical kitty, making them a good fit for some people with cat allergies.
 
11. Siberian
Size: Medium to large
Lifespan: 10–18 years
Temperament: Affectionate, calm and intelligent
Despite their long fur, Siberians are surprisingly good for those with allergies, but grooming them daily and keeping them tangle-free is key! Manage this and these loving, gentle and adaptable cats enjoy the twin pleasures of playtime and quiet companionship.
 
12. Sphynx
Size: Medium
Lifespan: 9–15 years
Temperament: Affectionate, energetic and friendly
As hairless cats, Sphynxes are one of the best options for allergy sufferers. While they’re affable, athletic and active, they require regular baths to keep their skin healthy and either cat-safe sunscreen or clothing to prevent sunburn if they venture outdoors.
 
13. Tonkinese
Size: Medium
Lifespan: 10–16 years
Temperament: Affectionate, outgoing and playful
A cross between Burmese and Siamese cats, Tonkinese have short, fine, lightly shedding coats that are easy to keep. Combining the best of both breeds -- intelligence, affection and a love of play -- their sociability makes them ideal for families and multi-pet homes.

by Nomi Berger
 
Have you ever noticed your cat’s ears rotate backward, flatten out and point straight to the sides, forming the letter T?” If so, that’s known as “airplane ears.” It’s also her subtle way of expressing discomfort.
 
One of many ear positions cats use to communicate, this astonishing control over the position of their ears is due to their unique ear anatomy. Whereas humans have only six muscles that move our outer ear (the pinna), cats have 32 muscles, giving them the ability to swivel, rotate and move each ear independently of the other!
 
According to cat behaviorists, if your own feline friend’s ears are forming that notorious “T,” she may be trying to tell you one or more of the following:
 
She’s overstimulated: A content and happily engaged cat is one in a “neutral” pose: ears perked, eyes soft, body relaxed and tail upright. On the other hand, when a cat is overstimulated or feels overwhelmed by anything from excessive petting to intrusive music, it means “pause,” paw-lease. Should you miss or ignore her signals, your usually friendly feline may resort to scratching or biting you.
 
She’s frightened: A frightened cat is one who often attempts to make herself appear smaller. Flattening her ears into “airplane ears” helps her accomplish this, together with crouching, tucking in her tail and moving away from whatever she perceives as a threat.
 
She’s in pain: Although it isn’t always easy to tell when cats are in pain, subtle changes in their head or ear position can be both early indicators of it. Acute pain may cause swift albeit subtle ear changes, while cats experiencing significant or prolonged discomfort are more likely to display consistent “airplane ears.” Since overstimulation, fear and pain can look the same, however, it’s essential to look at your cat’s entire face. Cats in pain often have tight, squinting eyes, tense facial muscles and a tucked or lowered head.
 
“Airplane ears” require you, as a pet parent, to respond and respond promptly. “How?” you might ask. If you’re actively petting her, stop immediately, give her some space and see if it makes a difference. If music is playing, is it too loud? Turn it down or turn it off completely and see if it makes a difference. Has someone new entered the room? Has another cat come too close? Is her face displaying the telltale signs of pain?
 
Once you’ve identified the trigger – other than pain – allow her to walk away freely, bring her into a quiet room or place her in a covered cat bed to relax and calm down. If, however, your cat is displaying other behavioral changes, such as changes in grooming, lack of appetite, hiding or vocalizing differently, schedule an appointment with your veterinarian to rule out any worrisome medical reasons for her “airplane ears.”

by Nomi Berger
 
Everyone is familiar with the old saying that cats have nine lives. And, apparently, more than 5,000 people search “do cats have nine lives” on Google every month!
 
Where, though, did this expression originate and why is it still so intriguing today?
 
One of the earliest connections comes from ancient Egypt where cats were considered sacred. The sun god Atum was reputed to have taken on the form of a cat when he visited the underworld. Atum was also the creator of the Ennead, a group of nine deities. So, nine lives from one divine “cat.” Then there’s an old English proverb that says, “A cat has nine lives. For three he plays, for three he strays, and for the last three he stays.”
 
Whatever the number, the message remains the same: cats are survivors. And although they don’t actually have nine lives, they do have an impressive set of physical abilities that inspired this belief.
 
They’re flexible: If you’ve ever seen cats squeeze themselves into spaces that look impossibly narrow, you’ve seen how truly flexible they are -- thanks to their elastic spines and unique clavicles attached, not to bone, but to muscle.
 
They’re agile: When cats get the “zoomies,” navigating around furniture at top speed, then landing gracefully after taking a flying leap, their pliable spines and powerful muscles allow them to make these smooth, rapid movements. 
 
They land on their feet: Their most iconic survival tactic, the “righting reflex” is an automatic response that helps them re-orient their bodies during a fall. A specialized balance system in their inner ears helps them figure out which way is up, and their pliable spine allows for this midair twisting and turning.
 
They’re blessed with amazing balance: Have you wondered how your cat can walk so confidently across the top of an outdoor railing or along the edge of your bathtub? Their inner ear contains sensitive balance sensors (the same ones that help during a fall) that constantly monitor their body position and make automatic adjustments to keep them steady. (Their tail also helps, acting as a counterbalance that assists them in making tiny corrections on narrow surfaces).
 
They have “supercharged” senses: A cat’s hearing is so acute that they can detect sounds up to 1.6 octaves higher than humans, which means they often know danger is approaching long before we do. Their night vision is also far superior to ours. A special reflective layer in their eyes (tapetum lucidum) gives them a large advantage in low-light situations.
 
Cats may be extraordinary in many ways, but they’re not invincible. Consider, then, these steps to protect your own favorite felines and help reduce unnecessary risks so that they can remain both healthy and safe during their (one) lifetime.
 
If yours is an indoor/outdoor cat, whenever you take them outside, ensure that they’re on a harness and leash. This will not only keep them from eating things they shouldn’t, it will keep them away from other animals and from cars.
 
If you take your cat on car trips or on visits to the vet, always keep them secure in a cat carrier or cat kennel. This will prevent them from accidentally escaping.
 
Keep your cat on regular flea and tick and heartworm preventatives, particularly if they frequent the outdoors.

by Nomi Berger
 
Two questions for feline fanciers: “How high can cats jump?” and “How do they do it?”
 
Have you ever been utterly fascinated by the sight of your own kitties leaping effortlessly onto a windowsill or scaling a tall bookshelf in mere seconds? If so, you’ve probably wondered why these “furry acrobats” jump so much and just how they accomplish these feline feats.
 
According to animal behaviorists, jumping isn’t simply an amusing pastime for them. It’s an integral part of the way they explore their surroundings and remain active. From navigating their environment to satisfying their innate hunting instincts and engaging in play, cats rely on their strong sense of balance, powerful hind legs and flexible spine, allowing them to jump vertically up to 8 or 9 feet. And since the average housecat measures about 18 inches long, this means they can jump about five to six times their body length in that single vertical leap!
 
Before your own kitty jumps, you’ll often see her crouch down, in essence, loading her spring-like hind legs with energy for the leap. After launching herself upwards, her flexible spine enables her to adjust herself in midair. Pay close attention and you’ll often see her tail move as she lands, acting as a counterbalance to keep her steady on her feet.
 
Some of the most common reasons that housecats jump include:
· Seeking tall “vantage” points: this behavior is derived from their predator-prey instincts. Being high up permits them to watch for “prey” while also allowing them to keep an eye out for “predators.”
· Hunting: pouncing on “prey” is an important part of the hunting process.
· Playing: jumping for wand toys or toy mice mimics actual hunting and provides them with much-needed physical exercise and mental stimulation.
 
Just as people have different athletic abilities, not all housecats possess the same jumping prowess. Some of the most common factors that impact their jumping skills include:
· Age: senior cats (those 7 years old and older) may be less motivated to jump up to a higher vantage point due to reduced muscle mass, discomfort or other health concerns.
· Body conditions: arthritic and obese housecats and those with extremely weak muscles will see their jumping abilities greatly reduced.
· Breed: Some small cat breeds, particularly those with proportionally shorter legs, like Munchkins, will, naturally, have a more limited vertical jump than athletic cats with longer bodies and legs, like Abyssinians.
 
Sadly, however, cats can often jump up into danger: onto countertops with food that’s toxic to them, onto a hot stove or onto a shelf that can’t quite hold their weight. You, as a pet parent, can discourage your own cat from jumping onto risky spaces by offering her safe and sturdy alternatives. Consider anchoring a tall, well-built cat tree to one of your walls or mounting a series of cat shelves onto a wall as safe places to perch. These features can also help “fraidy” cats gain more confidence in jumping, while helping them exercise and, over time, build up both their skill and their muscles.
 
Keeping your kitty from becoming bored is another way to reduce her jumping. Playing with her several times a day and providing her with interactive toys and puzzle feeders are purr-fect ways to keep her mentally stimulated and physically satisfied – and away from paw-tential danger.

by Nomi Berger
 
Do you have images of bygone days when a cat was always lapping up milk from a bowl? Have you ever wondered if milk is even good for cats? If so, the short answer is “no.”
 
Cow’s milk isn’t good for cats for several reasons. The most important reason being that, as cats mature they produce less lactase, the enzyme needed to properly digest milk. Like so many people with the same condition, these cats are referred to as being lactose intolerant.
 
Without lactase, the undigested milk sugar, lactose, passes through these cats’ intestinal tracts, and as it does, it pulls water into their intestines. This excessive amount of water can result in diarrhea, while bacteria in their colons consume a large influx of sugars, resulting in gas. All of this can trigger vomiting, diarrhea and abdominal pain.
 
Any cats showing signs of vomiting, diarrhea and gas within 12 hours of drinking milk are, in all probability, lactose intolerant. Most will bounce back from mild lactose intolerance within 24 hours. But if they’re feeling sick for longer than 24 hours, are vomiting to the point where they can’t keep down water or are especially lethargic, it’s essential to seek prompt veterinary care.
 
Not all cats, though, are lactose intolerant. Can they, then, drink milk? Sadly, the answer is still “no.” Cow’s milk contains quite a lot of fat and many (perhaps even most) cats are prone to obesity. Permitting them to drink milk on a regular basis adds fats and sugars to their diet and almost guarantees that they will become dangerously overweight. If, however, your own cat loves milk and isn’t lactose intolerant, a teaspoon of milk once or twice a week is unlikely to harm her.
 
As to drinking milk alternatives: if cow’s milk is off-limits, can you share your favorite plant or nut-based milk with your cat? Unfortunately, oat milks, soy milks, almond milks and coconut milks aren’t the best of ideas. Why? Some of these milks can be high in fat and cause your cat to become overweight. Some contain sugars, oils and thickeners that can be very hard to digest and lead to gastrointestinal upset. Some contain additives and preservatives that may prove difficult for cats to digest. Some contain added salt. And while a bit of salt isn’t necessarily bad, if your kitty’s prone to hypertension or renal disease, it’s never a good idea to add more salt to her diet.
 
Kittens, on the other hand, can happily drink milk without any signs of gastrointestinal distress. But they can only drink milk produced by female cats, not milk from other species such as cows, sheep or goats. This is due to the fact that kittens are born with the full ability to process cat milk. But as they’re weaned and begin eating the food that they’ll consume as adults, they start losing the ability -- and the enzymes -- to successfully process cat milk: at around 8 weeks of age.
 
There are, however, some commercial products that have been designed to mimic cat milk as closely as possible, such as PetAg KMR liquid milk supplement and PetAg KMR powder milk supplement. These, according to veterinary experts, are the only kind of “milk” products suitable for orphaned kittens and those requiring additional supplementation.
 

by Nomi Berger

Quite a mouthful: superfecundation!

What could it paws-ibly mean? In reference to female cats, fecundity is their ability to produce a large number of offspring. A fecund cat is fertile and capable of giving birth to many kittens. An intact female cat, known as a “queen”, can have either a large litter at one time or a frequent number of litters.

Superfecundation refers to a queen being impregnated by multiple intact males or “toms” and bringing her kittens (from different fathers) to term during the same pregnancy. The result: littermates who bear little or no resemblance to one another and who may only be half-sisters and half-brothers.

Female cats are known as “induced ovulators,” which means that eggs are only released from their ovaries after they’ve mated. Because of this, each ovary may release eggs during separate matings, increasing the probability of multiple fertilizations. Once ovulation has occurred, females will go out of heat within a day or two. An intact female will first go into heat at about six months old and her pregnancy will last for approximately 64 to 71 days, with an average of 65 days (nine weeks). Each heat usually lasts several days, with the average length being seven days. If an intact female hasn’t mated with an intact male when she’s fertile, she’ll go out of heat for a period of time ranging from two to 19 days.

A fertile intact female cat may produce six kittens in a litter, but a particularly fecund one may produce 30 kittens per year for six years or more, reaching as many as 180 kittens in her lifetime. An intact male cat with high fecundity, on the other hand, can father thousands of kittens during his lifetime!

Although more common among intact outdoor and feral cats, intact indoor/outdoor female cats and indoor ones living with intact males are equally at risk of having unwanted, multiple pregnancies. The most notable signs of females being in heat are behavioral. They become very affectionate, even demanding, persistently rubbing against their owners or furniture, and constantly wanting attention. They roll around on the floor more often and become more vocal. When stroked along the spine or back, they will raise their rear quarters into the air and tread with their back legs.

Some will urinate more frequently or spray urine on aka marking vertical objects. Their urine contains pheromones and hormones that signal their reproductive state, thereby attracting any intact males in the house – creating the “purr-fect storm” for copulation. Should these intact females venture outside, they’re certain to mate with one or more intact males in the area before coming back home.

The only solution to the twin problems of unwanted, multiple litters and cat overpopulation is spaying and neutering intact female and male cats. Most veterinarians recommend having females spayed before the age of five months, while kittens as young as eight weeks old can safely be neutered or spayed. Most cats will return to normal within three days following the procedure, with their healing complete within two weeks.

by Nomi Berger
 
Cats who appear to eat better in the company of people are commonly referred to as “affection eaters.”
 
Why, you may wonder? If so, paw-lease consider the five reasons below.
Their instinct for safety: Our domesticated cats’ wild ancestors always ate in groups as a way of protecting themselves from predators. Your own cat may feel that same sense of vulnerability when she eats and is seeking out your presence to reassure and protect her, thereby enabling her to feel safer.

Learned behavior: If your cat was either hand-fed or given constant attention as a kitten while eating, she may have understandably grown accustomed to having you nearby at mealtimes.

Social bonding: Your cat may not only enjoy your company, she may see you as her most trusted companion, making mealtime the purr-fect time for you to spend together.

Need for encouragement: Your cat may be one of those who insists on being petted while she eats or needs further encouragement to eat such as hearing her kibble dish rattle, having her food brought to her or even being spoon fed.

Fear: If she’s new to your household, your cat may, reasonably and naturally, be reacting to the loss of her previous home and/or human companions, much the way stressful situations can make people lose their appetite.
 
Help your cat adjust and eat comfortably by following the suggestions below.

If your cat is indeed new to your household, provide her with a room of her own for several days. This “safe” space should have a litter box at one end of the room and food, water, play toys and a cosy bed as far from the litter box as possible. Visit your cat at regular intervals, sit quietly on the floor, and when she feels relaxed enough to come to you, respond by speaking softly to her and gently petting her.

Not only are these regular visits and displays of affection vital for you both to bond, interactive playtime is the next step in ensuring that your cat relaxes even more. Why? Exercise has stress-reducing properties for cats just as it does for people.
Once she’s safely incorporated into your life, carefully monitor her eating. Always feed her a measured amount of food on a schedule, so that you can tell if and how much she’s eating.

Make certain that her food is always fresh and never stale: this can contribute to picky eating. Discard all uneaten food in between meals and thoroughly wash her food bowl every day.

Some cats don’t like deep or narrow bowls because they tend to touch or press against their whiskers. A shallow bowl or plate is best.

Some cats prefer food that is “served” at room temperature or slightly warmed. Yours will let you know soon enough!
If your cat isn’t eating well or isn’t eating at all, please contact your veterinarian immediately.

For the most part, though, your “affection eater” will thrive once she settles into your home -- thanks to your patient understanding, loving attention and a reassuring routine.

by Nomi Berger
 
Although meat-based protein forms the foundation of their diet, superfoods’ many benefits include boosting cats’ energy levels, improving their digestion, strengthening their immune systems, supporting their joints and enhancing their coats.
 
Consider, then, these ten superfoods.
 
1. Salmon: Salmon is an excellent source of omega-3 fatty acids, known for their anti-inflammatory properties. They promote skin health, improve the coat’s shine and support heart and joint health, making salmon especially beneficial for older cats or those with arthritis. Serve ONLY cooked boneless salmon to your cat.
 
2. Pumpkin: Pumpkin is rich in dietary fiber, which is excellent for regulating digestion. It also contains vitamin A, which supports healthy vision, and antioxidants that help fight off free radicals. Use only PLAIN cooked pumpkin or canned pumpkin puree and mix it into your cat’s food.
 
3. Blueberries: Blueberries contain the antioxidants, vitamins C and K. They support urinary tract health, boost immune system function and improve cognitive function, particularly in older cats. Use thoroughly washed small, mashed blueberries as a treat or mix them into your cat’s food.
 
4. Eggs: Eggs are rich in protein and essential amino acids that maintain strong muscles and tissues. They also contain essential fatty acids, vitamins B2, B6 and B12, and biotin, which support healthy skin and shiny coats. Serve only COOKED eggs to your cat.
 
5. Spinach: Spinach is high in vitamins A, C and K, minerals, iron and magnesium. It also contains antioxidants and anti-inflammatory properties, beneficial to cats with kidney disease, while supporting heart and immune health and vision. Lightly steam the spinach and feed it in moderation to your cat.
 
6. Chicken Liver: Chicken liver contains vitamins A and B, iron, and folate, which supports healthy blood cells, vision, immune function and overall vitality. But, due to its high vitamin A content, cooked chicken liver should only be fed occasionally in small portions, either mixed into your cat’s food or as a treat.
 
7. Coconut Oil: Coconut oil excels as a source of healthy fats, especially medium-chain triglycerides, which provide a quick energy boost, improve digestion, promote shiny coats, help with dry or itchy skin and help control hairballs. Begin by mixing a small amount of coconut oil into your cat’s food and monitor her for any digestive issues since some cats don’t tolerate it well.
 
8. Sardines: Sardines, a natural source of omega-3 fatty acids, are also rich in proteins, calcium and vitamins D and B12, which support bone, heart, joint and brain health and help increase energy production. After checking carefully for bones, serve your cat ONLY sardines packed in water (not oil or brine), without any added salt.
 
9. Sweet Potatoes: Sweet potatoes are rich in dietary fiber, which helps regulate digestion and in beta-carotene, which is converted into vitamin A to support healthy vision. They also contain vitamins and antioxidants that can help boost the immune system. Cook the sweet potatoes thoroughly and mash them before serving them to your cat.
 
10. Kale: Kale contains vitamins A, C and K, calcium, copper, potassium and iron. It also contains antioxidants that protect against cell damage and maintain healthy bones and muscles, and fiber that helps digestion, while its anti-inflammatory properties can be beneficial for cats with arthritis or other inflammatory conditions. Lightly steam or cook the kale before serving it to your cat.
 
Superfoods, however, should only comprise a small portion of your cat’s diet. And please consult with your vet first to ensure that any new food is both safe and suitable for her specific needs.

by Nomi Berger
 
Felines are famous for being fastidious. They not only groom themselves regularly, they have very specific demands regarding their litter boxes. And yet, some cats develop the perplexing habit of playing with their poop.
 
Why, you wonder? Consider these paws-ible reasons:
 
They’re bored: Some cats will play with their poop as if it’s a toy. Born of sheer boredom, they behave this way either because they don’t have enough toys or because they aren’t interacting satisfyingly with their owners or the other kitty members of their household. Purchase more toys for your cats to play with on their own and keep them actively engaged more often by using interactive toys together. The more play time they get, the less likely they are to be bored.
 
Their litter box is dirty: Scrupulously clean themselves, cats count on their owners to keep their litter box equally clean. Pick up all solids whenever you see them and scoop up all wet, clumped litter every day. Wash the litter box thoroughly each week to rid it of any crusted litter or extraneous litter contents. Not only will this satisfy your cats’ need for cleanliness, it will keep them from using their poop as a plaything.
 
Their litter box (and/or litter) isn’t right: Contented cats are less likely to either make a mess or play with their poop. First, this means ensuring their litter box is large enough: it should be one and a half times the length of the cat. Second, this means choosing a litter that your cats like. With various types of litter available, finding one that wins a paw’s up of approval from them is essential.
 
Their litter box is in the wrong position: In a multi-cat household, you need one litter box per cat, plus one, suitably positioned to ensure that your cats not only use them but use them appropriately. Ideally, they should be placed in quiet areas with at least one side against a wall so that your cats don’t feel “exposed.” Experiment by moving the litter boxes around, making certain to permit your cats easy access to them in order to prevent accidents outside the boxes.
 
They like the smell: Your cats may be playing with their poop because they find the smell quite pleasing. Perhaps it’s some protein or other nutrients they detect, leading them to sniff and investigate the source of that scent. While sniffing their poop may be mildly acceptable, never encourage or allow your cats to actually play with their poop.