by Nomi Berger
 
Have you ever been in the position of finding a litter of kittens and wondering what to do next? To keep or not to keep, that is the question.
 
Here, then, are some answers -- together with more questions.
 
1. If you find a litter of kittens on or near your property, quickly assess their health. If they appear healthy, watch them, but don’t move them. Their mother is likely nearby. Stay far enough away – several car lengths – that you’re not considered a threat by their mother if she’s feral. If, however, the kittens seem distressed or are very vocal, and if their mother hasn’t returned by the end of the day, she may NOT be returning.
 
2. Unless they're in danger, however, it's best to give their missing mother another chance to return and tend to them. Place them in a carrier or cardboard carton to keep them warm, safe and secure.
 
3. Try to determine the age of the kittens. Are they newborns with their eyes closed and weighing less than 8 ounces? Or are they 8 weeks old, weighing 2 pounds, and resembling miniature cats? Not to mention every age and weight in between. Each age brings with it a different set of criteria as to their proper maintenance and care. If they’re newborns, contact local rescue groups or no-kill shelters ONLY that may be willing to take them in immediately.
 
4. Are they feral (part of a colony of cats born to live and survive outdoors) or domestic kittens born to a family’s lost companion cat? Once again, this will determine the steps you take next.
 
5. If it’s either too hot or too cold outside, raining or snowing, bring the kittens indoors and confine them to a clean, quiet and small room -- whether a spare bedroom, bathroom or laundry room. Leave them in their carton or carrier with the door open, and provide them with a high-quality kibble, fresh water and cat litter.  If the kittens are too young to feed themselves, you’ll need to bottle feed them every couple of hours. Should you choose this course, either contact a local vet or rescue group for advice and guidance.
 
6. Within a few days, decide whether you want to temporarily foster them, bearing in mind that socializing them as quickly as possible will improve their chances of ultimately being adopted.
 
7. Although adorable and impossible to resist, kittens do have little claws and sharp teeth. To protect yourself from unnecessary “battle scars”, wear gloves until the kittens grow comfortable with being handled.
 
8. If you have other pets, keep them separated from the kittens to minimize the risk of their transmitting either parasites or infections to them.
 
9. To make fostering the kittens easier, speak with the volunteers at the rescue group you’ve already contacted and ask for their advice – on all matters from A to Z.
 
10. When it’s time for the kittens to “leave the nest”, either contact your vet, one who operates a re-homing center that will welcome yours if there’s room, or the rescue group. Relinquish the kittens into their care where they’ll be spay/neutered, then set on the right path towards finding their fur-ever homes.
 
By your actions, compassionate and caring, you’ll have not only saved several small lives, but you’ll have shared in an extraordinary experience, one you’re unlikely to ever forget.

by Nomi Berger
 
To ease the discomfort of teething, kittens are notorious for nibbling and chewing, chomping and biting on anything within reach of their tiny paws – including your fingers and toes.
 
Kittens invariably begin to lose their baby teeth at around the age of nine weeks, while their adult teeth won’t have grown in fully until they’re between five and six months old. What more purr-fect time then, for every pet parent to teach their kitten some early “table” manners, i.e., what is and what isn’t appropriate when it comes to chewing and biting.
 
Consider the five following suggestions to make your new life together ever so much easier.
 
1. Once solely a doggy’s domain, chew toys are now fabulously feline friendly. Manufacturers, near and far, produce toys specifically designed to provide appropriate “targets” for those budding kitten teeth. Choose from a vast array of these treasures ranging from cloth toys that can be chilled to ease your kitten’s tender gums and firmer chews that will exercise her jaw muscles to nylon-based toys made expressly for teething.
 
2. Discover the wonders of interactive playtime and integrate it into your own daily routine. Why, you may ask? Every teething – and growing -- kitten requires vigorous, interactive play because it not only helps her work off excess energy, it also helps develop her balance and build up her strength. Using one or more of a variety of specially designed teaser toys at least twice a day for 10 to 15 minutes each time will both give your kitten a suitable object for her chewing and reinforce the growing pet-parent bond between you.
 
3. Of utmost importance: whenever you’re petting your kitten, make certain to keep your hands away from her mouth. Follow this same rule when playing with her. Never use your fingers as objects she can all too easily and confusedly consider fair game for her teeth. No mixed signals, paw-lease!
 
4. Be prepared to use the word “Ow!” if your teething kitten happens to bite you. Why? Because whenever the play between two cats becomes too rowdy or rough, the victim will emit a high-pitched cry, causing the aggressor to back away, and, ultimately flee. Say “Ow!” in a high-pitched but not overly loud voice, then promptly put your biting kitten on the floor. Referred to as the “Ow” and Down” technique, using it consistently will teach your wayward kitten that biting on her part means no playing or petting on your part.
 
5. Always ensure that, wherever you are, you have several chew toys close by. This way, if you’re sitting with your teething kitten and notice her expression suddenly signal, “I’m in the mood to bite something,” you can swiftly hand her a teething-appropriate toy, thereby taking your fingers safely off the proverbial menu.
 
In short, by lovingly, patiently and consistently reinforcing the message that only certain items are reserved for your teething kitten’s nibbles and chews, chomps and bites, you’re paving the way for the most purr-fect of futures together.

by Nomi Berger
 
With the arrival of spring comes the birth of millions of newborn kittens, the majority of them born to feral cats living outdoors. Fortunately, however, most of these kittens will make excellent family pets if they’re rescued and properly socialized at an early age.
 
Enter the compassionate, attentive and nurturing foster home. And yet, tragically, despite the most ideal conditions, a disproportionate number of these well-tended kittens will succumb to fading kitten syndrome. According to the most recent estimates, 15 to 27 percent of them will die before they’re nine weeks old, while mortality among litters of foster kittens can be as devastatingly high as 100 percent.
 
What, then, is fading kitten syndrome? And, more importantly, can it be treated?
 
Fading kitten syndrome describes and encompasses a number of problems and conditions that can cause young kittens to die. Most of those who die from this syndrome seem to sicken and die suddenly. With a few exceptions, such as trauma and hypothermia, however, the problem usually builds gradually and is extremely difficult to detect until a crisis develops. The key, therefore, to reducing such a high mortality rate in these kittens is the early detection of any subtle problems before a crisis develops.
 
Potential causes of fading kitten syndrome include:
Inadequate mothering by the kittens’ mother. Most foster kittens are particularly at risk if they were orphaned or abandoned by their mothers. Even kittens with mothers can be at risk if those mothers are young and inexperienced, stressed, malnourished, unable to produce enough milk, unwilling to allow their kittens to nurse or are, paradoxically, obese.
 
Bacterial infectious that result in sepsis. Viral infections like calcivirus, feline herpesvirus, feline AIDS (FIV), feline leukemia (FeLV) and panleukopenia. Parasitic infestations with coccidia, roundworms or other organisms. Many of these infections are linked to a complete collapse of the immune system, usually associated with a condition called thymus atrophy.
 
Hereditary defects ranging from heart irregularities to undeveloped immune systems. Hemolytic anemia, which occurs when a kitten’s blood type differs from her mother’s. When that kitten nurses during the first days of her life, she ingests antibodies that will attack her blood cells.
 
While the early signs of fading kitten syndrome are subtle, they’re usually detectable, and foster parents should be aware of them. Sick kittens may not be capable of righting themselves when turned on their backs. They may have a poor suckling reflex. Their eyes may not open at the usual age of five days to two weeks. They will often be smaller than their littermates and may not gain weight normally. Healthy kittens should gain from 7 to 10 grams a day. (Many experts recommend weighing kittens on a gram scale twice a day). Kittens not gaining weight at an appropriate rate must, therefore, receive extra attention with a special focus on feeding.
 
Fosters should be on the alert for constant noises such as whining or crying even after feeding, gradually worsening lethargy, weakness, labored breathing, vomiting, diarrhea and nasal or eye discharge. These symptoms constitute a crisis and require an immediate visit to the vet. Recovery is possible if the underlying cause can be quickly identified and treatment started in time. Supportive care usually includes fluids, dextrose to support blood sugar levels, antimicrobials, nutritional support, oxygen support and body temperature support.
 
If a kitten does survive this crucial period and grows stronger, long-term management in her foster home must focus on proper nutrition, scrupulously clean living conditions, preventative health care, and especially close monitoring of her food intake to ensure she gains weight. Sadly, though, the prognosis for most kittens in crisis is poor, with many of them dying even with treatment. And one kitten lost doesn’t augur well for that kitten’s remaining littermates.

by Nomi Berger
 
Are unsightly and uncomfortable scabs making YOUR kitty itchy and irritable? If so, what’s causing them?
 
One of the main culprits is miliary dermatitis, where itchy scabs appear on a cat’s neck, back and tail. Most often the result of a fleabite allergy, whereby a cat is allergic to a substance in flea saliva, a single bite can trigger severe itching in her. Although you’re unlikely to find fleas on your affected cat due to her fastidious grooming habits, you will be able to see flea droppings -- composed of digested blood.
 
Some cats have food allergy dermatitis and may exhibit hypersensitive reactions to one or more components in their diet. Other possible causes of allergies include atopy, a type of allergic reaction in response to inhaled allergens, and contact dermatitis or contact allergies. Some cats may react adversely to materials in their owners’ bedding, carpets or rugs. Seasonal allergens – from pollen in the air to grasses, weeds and bushes -- can also cause intense itching in especially sensitive cats, not to mention chemicals commonly used in households and on gardens and lawns.
 
Next on the list of possibilities are skin parasites such as ticks, lice and mites, nutritional deficiencies due to an unbalanced or inappropriate diet, and immune-mediated skin diseases. While they themselves don’t cause a cat’s scabs, her frenzied scratching, chewing and licking in an attempt to find relief from the itching will – by eventually breaking the surface of the skin. The longer she claws at the scabs, the greater the chance of secondary bacterial or fungal infections, making treating her all the more complicated. It’s therefore essential to bring YOUR unhappy kitty to the vet as promptly as possible.
 
The diagnosis of miliary dermatitis is based primarily on your cat’s medical history and her symptoms. Your vet will, in all likelihood, check for signs of fleas and flea dirt, collect some skin scrapings, run allergy tests and take biopsies if necessary. You may even be referred to a veterinary dermatologist.
 
Ultimately, treating her scabs and itchy skin will depend on identifying the trigger and then, relieving her symptoms. If a flea allergy is to blame, your vet will prescribe a flea medication for at least two to three months. If it’s a mite or lice infestation, medicated baths or sprays should help. If it’s a food allergy, a hypoallergenic food trial (without the offending allergens) may make all the difference. She may also be put on a brief course of corticosteroids or other anti-inflammatory drugs to help ease her itching while any other prescribed medication works to eliminate the root cause of her condition.
 
Should a secondary infection be involved, your vet will prescribe a round of antibiotics or antifungals for a given period of time. But remember: even if her skin problem begins to resolve itself within a few days of starting any medication, you MUST finish the entire prescription to prevent it from recurring, which can be more serious and more difficult to address. Additional protocols may also include giving her antihistamines and/or cyclosporine and supplementing her diet with essential fatty acids.
 
Fortunately, most cats diagnosed with miliary dermatitis have an excellent prognosis. But to err on the side of caution and keep it, wherever possible, from becoming an issue in the first place, your cat’s preventive health program should include a monthly flea preventative to ensure she’s adequately protected throughout the year. If your cat spends any time outside, keep her inside instead, thereby reducing both her exposure to various outdoor allergens and keeping her away from any cats potentially infested with fleas, mites and other parasites.

by Nomi Berger
 
Has your kitty gone from “pleasingly plump” to frighteningly fat? And if so, why?
 
Does the term “polyphagia” sound familiar? If not, it’s a medical condition that causes a cat to increase her food intake to the extent that she seems ravenous most of or all of the time. Since polyphagia can be either behavioral or physical in nature, it’s vital to determine which of the two is affecting your particular kitty.
 
The simplest way is starting at home – to see whether you’re simply over-feeding her.
 
Since most healthy adult cats require only one or two meals a day, use measuring scoops (follow the serving size recommended on the tin or packaging) to refill her bowl and feed her on a fixed schedule – despite her many initial meows of protest.
 
Although she may be eating a great deal, she may not be getting enough essential nutrients. If this is the case, change to a higher quality cat food, one that provides her with the vitamins and minerals she needs to stay healthy – and lean.
 
Use a slow feeding bowl – their bumps make it more difficult for kitty to reach her food, forcing her to eat more slowly. And if your cat is one who eats when she’s bored, a slow feeding bowl will provide her with the added benefit of some much-needed stimulation.
 
Turn mealtime into a game by purchasing one of a wide variety of feeding toys that automatically dispenses food as your cat plays with it. Not only does this limit the amount of food she eats but it also encourages her natural prey drive and affords her the chance at some additional exercise.
 
If your cat is either lonely or stressed (some cats will habitually beg for food as a means of attracting their owners’ attention), alleviate these feelings by devoting at least 15 to 20 minutes a day to actively play, play, playing with her.
 
If, on the other hand, the reason behind her overeating is medical, among the various possible culprits are diabetes mellitus, hyperthyroidism, certain medications, and impaired digestion and absorption of nutrients. But to make the proper determination, a visit to your vet is essential.
 
As with any other suspected condition, the first step will be a thorough physical examination of your cat augmented by extensive blood and urine tests. A blood count enables your vet to evaluate her thyroid levels, examine her blood for the presence of infectious agents, and to see if she’s suffering from anemia or any inflammation in her blood vessels. Abnormally low blood sugar (hypoglycemia) may also be found – possibly the result of insulin-producing tumors that interfere with the proper functioning of her pancreas. A complete urinalysis will show if there’s an infection in her urinary tract, an infection of the organs involved in waste elimination or if sugar is present in her urine -- commonly found in cats with diabetes.
 
Should these tests prove inconclusive, however, your vet may suggest x-rays of her thorax and abdomen and, possibly, an endoscopy. This procedure involves inserting a tube through your kitty’s mouth and into the hollow cavity of her stomach to take tissue samples from her stomach and small intestine.
 
Once the cause of her condition has been diagnosed, your vet will provide you with an at-home treatment plan to follow going forward. Examples: Diabetes mellitus can usually be managed by a combination of insulin and a special diet. Gastrointestinal conditions such as exocrine pancreatic insufficiency may respond to dietary changes and oral medications. Hyperthyroidism can be treated with medication, radioactive iodine therapy, diet, or surgery to remove the thyroid gland, while impaired digestion or absorption caused by gastrointestinal disease may be controlled through medications and dietary changes.
 
But if kitty’s polyphagia doesn’t improve or worsens, schedule an appointment with your vet to have her re-evaluated.

by Nomi Berger
 
Have you thought of adding some new and different resolutions to your traditional New Year’s list?
 
Have you ever thought about getting involved in the world of cat rescue, but didn’t quite know how?
 
Here then, are twelve different ways – one for each month – for you to resolve to make a difference in the lives of rescue kittens and cats this year. Even if you choose only one, that choice will make all the difference in the world to them.
 
1. Contact a local cat rescue and ask to volunteer for them. Since volunteers form the backbone of every nonprofit organization, no group can function successfully without them, and there are many ways (it varies from rescue to rescue) to help out.
 
2. Refer ONE feline-loving friend to the same rescue to volunteer alongside you.
 
3. Click onto their web site and make a monetary contribution to them online either as a onetime payment or as recurring monthly payments.
 
4. Purchase and donate items to them from the “wish lists” featured on their site such as Amazon and Chewy.
 
5. Follow their Face Book page, “like” them, “comment” and “share” their postings on a daily basis, and vote for them in every online competition.
 
6. Respond with donations to as many pleas for funds as possible – from one kitty’s medical needs to GoFundMe appeals.
 
7. Instead of accepting birthday gifts this year, ask your family and friends to make contributions to the rescue in your name.
 
8. Host a small fundraiser (bake sales, garage sales and yard sales are among the most popular) and donate the proceeds to them. You will receive not only their gratitude, but a tax receipt as well.
 
9. Sign petitions calling on your city to ban the sale of cats in all pet stores unless they’re from animal shelters, rescue groups or people surrendering them for free.
 
10. Sponsor a kitty.
 
11. Foster an available cat. Learn precisely what’s required of you, then welcome one very needy and deserving animal into your home temporarily, until he or she can be placed in a permanent home.
 
12. Adopt a rescue cat and save two lives – the life of the one you’re adopting, and the life of the one immediately taking his or her place.
 
As for next year? Either continue working your way down this list, or resolve to draw up a list of you own.

by Nomi Berger
 
It’s a question posed by puzzled cat parents everywhere: Do our feline friends truly HATE water?
 
According to most animal behaviorists and scientists, the answer is more complicated than a simple “yes” or “no.” Why? Because the relationship between cats and water is, in itself, complicated -- for several reasons.
 
From an evolutionary standpoint, today’s domestic cats are descended from Arabian wild cats who inhabited areas where the climate was arid with few if any large bodies of water, thereby negating the necessity to learn how to swim in order to survive. Succinctly put, there’s virtually nothing in the ancestral lineage of domesticated cats that would have ever prepared them for being bathed – in a tub or even a sink. 
 
Because they still retain many of the same instincts as their ancestors, today’s cats are always alert to potential threats and must be fit enough to either fight or flee should the need arise. But if their fur is wet (read “drenched” or “soaked”), it’s akin to being weighed down by a cold, heavy blanket due to the fact that their coats dry very slowly. Not only is this distinctly uncomfortable, it impedes their ability to move, compromises their agility, and leaves them vulnerable to attack.
 
And since cats typically spend 30 to 50 percent of each day meticulously grooming themselves, licking their fur to remove skin oils and fluffing their coats, they scarcely need bathing. In fact, their sole exposure to water seldom extends beyond their water bowls. It’s purr-fectly understandable, then, that their reaction to anything else would be one of fear. Especially if their earliest exposure to water was getting caught in the rain, being forced into a flea bath or being disciplined with a spray bottle or squirt gun to dissuade them from jumping onto or scratching furniture and/or kitchen counters.
 
Cats are gifted with a highly developed sense of smell and are thus able to detect the chemicals in tap water – an extremely unpleasant experience, at least for them. They also have numerous scent glands in their bodies that produce pheromones used for marking and communicating with other cats, and water – from tap water to scented bathwater -- interferes with these abilities. 
 
Why then, do so many cats splash about in their water bowls and/or stare in such rapt fascination at the water streaming from a sink faucet or filling up a bathtub? Because it has very little to do with the water itself and everything to do with the way it looks, sounds and moves. To them, the shimmering, flickering light patterns dancing about so seductively means only one thing: potential prey and, thus, a source of food – an instinct as old as the species itself.
 
And yet, surprisingly, there are some cats who not only enjoy water but LOVE swimming in it! Among them are the Abyssinian, American Bobtail, Bengal, Japanese Bobtail, Maine Coon, Manx, Norwegian Forest Cat, Savannah, Turkish Angora and Turkish Van.
 
If you have a young kitten, it’s always possible to help her feel more comfortable around water. Since her most impressionable time of life is between three and 16 weeks, expose her slowly to water using treats or toys as positive reinforcement. Should you have an older cat who’s either sick or has arthritis and can’t groom herself properly, bathing her may become a necessity. Even she can be conditioned to enjoy – or at least, tolerate – the water, although the process will, understandably, be slower and take longer.

by Nomi Berger
 
Although many owners believe that an extremely dry or wet cat nose is indicative of illness, nothing could be further from the truth.
 
Not only are some cats’ noses naturally drier than others, but most cats’ nose temperatures and moisture levels vary throughout the day. The best way, then, to determine whether or not there’s reason for worry is to know what’s normal for your own cherished cat companion.
 
Curious as to why a cat’s nose is wet in the first place? The rhinarium (the skin around her nostril openings) and the sweat glands on it create moisture, while her lower tear ducts create drainage – both of which contribute to her having a wet nose. Just as we sweat in order to regulate our body temperature, cats use their noses’ moisture to both remain cool and to regulate their own body temperature. And since cats are famous for being fastidious self-groomers, their continuous licking automatically adds a layer of moisture to their noses, keeping them wet.
 
Just as common as a wet nose is a dry one, and it’s seldom a cause for concern. If a cat spends a good deal of her time either sitting or lying in direct sunlight, her nose may be dry – similar to the drying effects that sunbathing has on our skin. The same holds true for a cat who spends too much of her time near a fireplace or a heating vent. The level of humidity in the air – particularly during the winter months – also plays a part in her nose’s level of moisture.
 
However, when a cat has an overly dry nose or one whose skin is cracked or flaking, the cause is dehydration, resulting from either decreased water intake or increased fluid loss. If you think your kitty is suffering from dehydration, bring her to the vet. Other signs of dehydration include: sunken eyes, dry mouth, elevated heart rate, skin elasticity, lethargy, depression, loss of appetite and panting.
 
Unlike a wet nose, a runny nose merits a visit to the vet in order to rule out – or rule in – such illnesses as upper respiratory infections (URIs). A number of viral and bacterial infections can cause URIs, including feline herpesvirus and feline chlamydia bacteria. Common symptoms of URIs are red, watery eyes, an excessively runny nose, a bubbly and colored nasal discharge, and sniffling and sneezing.
 
On the other hand, a runny nose could just as easily be due to an allergy. After a thorough examination of your cat, an in-depth discussion of her symptoms and living conditions, your vet may recommend changes in her food and/or litter as well as in her environment.
 
In short, a healthy cat’s nose tends to switch back and forth between moist and dry throughout the day. The more you familiarize yourself with your own feline’s daily pattern, the more easily you’ll recognize when something’s amiss, requiring a visit to the vet.

by Nomi Berger
 
If your kitty’s breath seems less than fresh lately, there are various reasons behind it, the most common being periodontal disease.
 
An inflammation of the tissues surrounding your cat’s teeth, it’s caused by the buildup of plaque and tartar, rife with large amounts of bacteria that release malodorous sulfur compounds. Treating this condition requires professional removal of the plaque and tartar under anesthesia in a vet’s office. Maintaining her newly cleaned teeth requires regular and conscientious dental care at home and twice yearly dental exams from then on.
 
Abscessed tooth roots are also common. The infection produces pus that drains around the affected tooth and into your cat’s mouth, and as the abscess grows, the side of her face closest to the site will start to swell. Sometimes the infection will even break through her skin and the pus will leak onto her fur. An abscess must be lanced and drained by a vet, and more often than not, the affected tooth extracted, and your cat placed on antibiotics for several days.
 
Respiratory viruses are common as well. One of them, the calicivirus, often causes ulcers to appear on a cat’s tongue. While they have a foul smell, most cats recover swiftly from these infections, and once the ulcers heal, the smell disappears.
 
The most worrisome cause of feline halitosis, however, is an oral tumor, with squamous cell carcinoma being the most common. As the tumor grows, parts of it may become infected and start to decay, resulting in an unpleasant odor. Most cats with oral tumors have a poor prognosis. Why? Because by the time they start exhibiting signs of a problem inside their mouths, the tumor has already infiltrated too extensively, making treatment impossible.
 
Bad breath can result from non-oral conditions as well.
 
As cats age, their kidneys begin to weaken, impairing their ability to filter toxins from their bloodstream. The further this condition progresses, the higher the level of toxins, leading them to develop uremia (the term literally means urine in the blood). Cats suffering from uremia usually have extremely foul or “rotting” breath and often develop ulcers on the sides of their tongues that make their already bad breath even worse.
 
Diabetes can also negatively impact a cat’s breath. While some diabetic cats have that telltale sweet, fruity smell to their breath, the more obvious signs that something’s amiss are increased thirst, increased urination, and noticeable weight loss despite an increased appetite.
 
Given the various medical conditions that can cause halitosis, always err on the side of caution and have your cat examined by your vet if she fails the “smell test.” To determine its underlying cause if one isn’t patently obvious, the vet will take kitty’s complete health history, perform a physical exam and, more often than not, order blood tests and a urinalysis, and any other diagnostic tests deemed necessary.
 
As with the majority of medical issues, though, the best way to “treat” a problem is to prevent it in the first place. And since periodontal disease is the most common cause of feline halitosis, your primary line of defence is a dedicated dental home care routine. This includes brushing your cat’s teeth regularly using a feline-specific toothpaste, starting slowly and rewarding her with positive reinforcement. If this proves too difficult, wiping the outside of her teeth and gums with a Q-tip twice a day is one of the most effective ways of removing and slowing the accumulation of plaque. Last, but certainly not least, feed her a diet that’s especially designed to reduce plaque and tartar buildup, and give her dental treats – using only those products recommended by the Veterinary Oral Health Council.

by Nomi Berger
 
While common in people and dogs, glaucoma is rare in cats, but can ultimately lead to blindness. However, an early diagnosis coupled with the proper treatment affords concerned owners a fighting chance at saving their favorite feline friends’ purr-ecious sight.
 
What then, IS glaucoma?
 
Glaucoma is a painful disorder that occurs as a result of an abnormal increase in eye pressure (IOP or intraocular pressure). Although it can be caused by genetic factors, it’s more commonly linked to such underlying conditions as inflammation, tumors, trauma or changes in the lens that can lead to a buildup of fluid inside the eye.
 
Under normal conditions, clear fluid (aqueous humor) is produced within your cat’s eye. This fluid not only helps the eye maintain its shape, but it also delivers nutrients and removes metabolites during the circulation process.
 
In healthy eyes, the amount of fluid that’s produced is balanced by an equal amount of fluid exiting the eyes. But should there be an increase in the amount of fluid that’s being produced or if something obstructs its ability to drain normally, the liquid will build up and result in increased eye pressure.
 
This increase in pressure can damage the retina (the lining at the back of the eye that detects light) as well as the optic nerve, which carries impulses to the brain. If the pressure remains high for between 24 and 72 hours, it can cause permanent blindness in your cat.
 
Glaucoma may affect one or both eyes, and the symptoms can vary, depending on the amount of pressure, the underlying cause and how long the pressure has been elevated. Signs that your cat has glaucoma include:
Increased blinking
Dilated pupil(s)
Enlargement or bulging of the affected eye(s)
A clear to cloudy discharge from one or both eyes
Redness and swelling of the vessels in the sclera (the white portion of the eye)
Cloudiness of the cornea (the clear outer layer of the eye)
Bumping into objects
Depression
Loss of appetite
 
In order to diagnose glaucoma, your vet will perform a thorough examination of your cat’s eyes and use a veterinary tonometer (a small, thin instrument resembling a thermometer) to measure the pressure inside her eyes. While elevated pressure is a sign that glaucoma is present, more sophisticated testing can be done – your vet will usually refer you to a veterinary ophthalmologist for this -- to determine the cause behind the change in pressure and prescribe the appropriate course of action to treat it. The goal: to reduce the pressure, control the pain and preserve your cat’s sight.
 
A veterinary opthalmologist may order, among other things: x-rays and/or an ultrasound of her eye(s) to identify any abnormalities or tumors; tests to evaluate her sugar levels and the function of her kidneys, liver and pancreas; a complete blood count, urinalysis, thyroid test and tests for FeLV and FIV.
 
Once glaucoma has been diagnosed and medications begun, follow-up examinations are essential to ensure that your cat’s responding adequately to the treatment or, if not, to adjust her medications.
 
As for the prognosis? It depends on the underlying cause of her glaucoma. In the long run, ongoing medical treatment will be needed to keep the disease under control. With medical treatment alone, however, most cats will eventually lose the vision in their affected eye. If her glaucoma was caused by a detached lens and the lens is surgically removed, then the prognosis is good. If it was the result of uveitis (a form of inflammation affecting the uvea or the middle layer of tissue in the eye wall), and the inflammation is controlled, then the prognosis is good, provided the proper treatment is maintained indefinitely.
 
In cases that don’t respond to medical treatment or if she’s gone blind in the affected eye, removal of that eye may be recommended to relieve her pain and discomfort. But take heart. Cats who lose their sight usually adapt admirably to their situation and continue to lead happy, healthy and loving lives.